How many milli amps does 1 atomizer use? So I can use 3.7v or 6.0v and the milli amps stays the same on BOTH voltages?
How many milli amps does 1 Atomizer use?
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I have used a 1 amp switch with my 6v mod and it stopped working, when I connected it without the switch, it worked.
If the switch cant take the amps, what happens. And the PM I sent you about, "where to get a HIGHER THAN 5amp switch". Posting here for a answer.
You should try a Mosfet. It will allow you to use virtually any switch that will fit inside your mod.
If your switch can not take the amps the best thing that would happen is that the switch contacts will burn out and your atomizer will not get power......BUT if the contacts weld together because of the high amps then your atomizer will not turn off and keep heating until it burns out or your battery dies or blows
Ohms law says that voltage (E) divided by resistance (R) equals amps or current (I):
E/R = I
Also if you want to know how much power or watts (P) you are using you would use:
E * I = P
So using your numbers
At 3.7 volts - using a atomizer with a resistance of 3 ohms (Drozd was using a atomizer with a resistance of 2.298) you will use 1.233 amps or 1233 milli amps. This is 4.56 watts.
At 3.7 volts - using a atomizer with a resistance of 4.5 ohms you will use 0.822 amps or 822 milli amps. This is 3.04 watts.
Now lets look at 6 volts:
At 6 volts - using a atomizer with a resistance of 3 ohms (Drozd was using a atomizer with a resistance of 2.298)you will use 2.000 amps or 2000 milli amps. This is 12 watts.
At 6 volts - using a atomizer with a resistance of 4.5 ohms you will use 1.333 amps
or 1333 milli amps. This is 8.00 watts.
Ohms law says that voltage (E) divided by resistance (R) equals amps or current (I):
E/R = I
Also if you want to know how much power or watts (P) you are using you would use:
E * I = P
So using your numbers
At 3.7 volts - using a atomizer with a resistance of 3 ohms (Drozd was using a atomizer with a resistance of 2.298) you will use 1.233 amps or 1233 milli amps. This is 4.56 watts.
At 3.7 volts - using a atomizer with a resistance of 4.5 ohms you will use 0.822 amps or 822 milli amps. This is 3.04 watts.
Now lets look at 6 volts:
At 6 volts - using a atomizer with a resistance of 3 ohms (Drozd was using a atomizer with a resistance of 2.298)you will use 2.000 amps or 2000 milli amps. This is 12 watts.
At 6 volts - using a atomizer with a resistance of 4.5 ohms you will use 1.333 amps
or 1333 milli amps. This is 8.00 watts.
ive found atty performance to be extremely consistent if you regulate current instead of voltage, since current is what heats up the coil. if you apply the same amount of current to each atty, regardless of lr, hv, carto, or standard, you will get almost identical performance.
ive found my ideal current to be around 1.3 amps, or 4v on a stock atty, a litte over 4v on a 306 atty, and 5v on a 510 carto.
people should be more focused on current than voltage, as every atty will perform differently with a constant voltage.
to answer your original question: 1.19A on a stock atty, 1.17A on a 306 atty and 970 mA on a 510 carto
ive found my ideal current to be around 1.3 amps, or 4v on a stock atty, a litte over 4v on a 306 atty, and 5v on a 510 carto.
people should be more focused on current than voltage, as every atty will perform differently with a constant voltage.
to answer your original question: 1.19A on a stock atty, 1.17A on a 306 atty and 970 mA on a 510 carto
i would not push it above 5v on a stock atty, turns a bit harsh above that.
anything above 5.75v on a carto will do that tooo
anything above 5.75v on a carto will do that tooo
04_SRT,
I could not agree more. The whole idea is to get the right current to the atti or carto that will make it work the best. Anywhere from .8 amps up to 1.3 amps.
Ohms law tells me that current or amps (I) equals Voltage (E) divided by Resistance (R). E / R =I
The resistance of the atti or cart "coil" is constant (more or less, It will change a little when you heat it up).
The only way to change the current to the addi or carto is to change the voltage. More voltage = more current. Less voltage = less current.
I have been looking at a lot of mods that are using a 5 volt regulator for their voltage source. To me this is not the way to go. If the resistance is constant and the voltage is constant then the regulator must very the current to the addi or carto to keep the output at 5 volts.
I have noticed that when I measure the resistance of a box of new cartos, almost every one is a little different. Not much but they are never all the same.
If I put all these cartos on a 5 volt regulated supply then everyone will hit just a little bit different.
So what is my fix for this ? I use a pass-through connected to a wall transformer with a 6 volt output. I then connect the transformer to a variable power supply (Variac).
With this setup I can change the voltage to the carto anywhere from 0 volts up to 8 volts. This lets me hit the sweet spot for any carto or atti that I have.
This works great when I am home with an AC outlet. My next project is to build a portable mod with the same variable voltage output.
I could not agree more. The whole idea is to get the right current to the atti or carto that will make it work the best. Anywhere from .8 amps up to 1.3 amps.
Ohms law tells me that current or amps (I) equals Voltage (E) divided by Resistance (R). E / R =I
The resistance of the atti or cart "coil" is constant (more or less, It will change a little when you heat it up).
The only way to change the current to the addi or carto is to change the voltage. More voltage = more current. Less voltage = less current.
I have been looking at a lot of mods that are using a 5 volt regulator for their voltage source. To me this is not the way to go. If the resistance is constant and the voltage is constant then the regulator must very the current to the addi or carto to keep the output at 5 volts.
I have noticed that when I measure the resistance of a box of new cartos, almost every one is a little different. Not much but they are never all the same.
If I put all these cartos on a 5 volt regulated supply then everyone will hit just a little bit different.
So what is my fix for this ? I use a pass-through connected to a wall transformer with a 6 volt output. I then connect the transformer to a variable power supply (Variac).
With this setup I can change the voltage to the carto anywhere from 0 volts up to 8 volts. This lets me hit the sweet spot for any carto or atti that I have.
This works great when I am home with an AC outlet. My next project is to build a portable mod with the same variable voltage output.
i'm working on that exact idea, a variable voltage, constant current source. Still trying to track down parts for it, and come up with the best design, i'm trying to incorporate a feedback circuit and pot or varistor so that I can set the current I want, and the circuitry will adjust voltage accordingly in order to provide that, no matter what atty I am using.
I have noticed, when I supply anything more than 4 volts to my passthrough, it starts to heat up, even though it's a 5v passthrough. I've started unplugging the + lead after I take a few drags in order to keep it cool.
might do some more experimenting when I get to work tonight, it's nice to have access to all sorts of electronic test equipment
I'm sorry.. but this is just not correct.
Neither fixed current or fixed voltage is the appropriate method for attempting to get uniform performance with varying atty/cartomizer resistance.
Delivered current does not have a direct relationship to produced heat. Neither does the voltage. It is the POWER (Watts) that has the direct relationship.
If you push 1A through a 1Ω atomizer you will only develop 1W of power.. and virtually no heat/vapor (regardless of atty design). If you push the same 1A through a 10Ω atty, you will generate 10W of power (and a corresponding amount of heat). It will also require a source capable of producing 10V.
So, in essence, neither fixed current or fixed voltage is really ideal in this situation.
then the real-life testing I did at my test bench at work yesterday is null and void, and the results backing my statement were false?
I tested atty's at 2.5 ohms, 2.6 ohms, and 3.2 ohms. When I set them all to the same current, completely ignoring voltage, they all performed almost identically in terms of throat hit, flavor, and vapor production. One standard 510 atty, one 510 carto, and one 306 atty.
please explain, if not due to the current being consistent. Being an RF technician, with 6.5 years of electronic component level troubleshooting in the army, and pursuing a degree in EE, i have a decent grasp on electronic theory, but I realize I'm young and have a lot to learn, and will do so wherever possible.
At first thought it seemed like constant current would be more consistant, but drag out the calculator. Since you understand RF, power out is the key point here. Throat hit, vapor, are subjective, Dr. Ohms was quite objective 
Calculate the actual power delivered to your attys and cartos with a fixed current.
If you widen the resistance range you are considering it may become more obvious. 2 amps thru a HV atty cooks. 2 amps thru a LR atty sucks. Power out (of lack of it) is what makes cell phones suck as far as range. 400 to 500 mw just dosn't have the same range as a kilowatt on 80 meters. For a constant current circuit, check application notes for a low dropout adjustable voltage regulator. They can be configured as a constant current source.
Of course the subjective aspect of vaping is what makes us happy. And that is the most important part of it anyway. ummmmm pufffff, ummmm pufffff.
Calculate the actual power delivered to your attys and cartos with a fixed current.
If you widen the resistance range you are considering it may become more obvious. 2 amps thru a HV atty cooks. 2 amps thru a LR atty sucks. Power out (of lack of it) is what makes cell phones suck as far as range. 400 to 500 mw just dosn't have the same range as a kilowatt on 80 meters. For a constant current circuit, check application notes for a low dropout adjustable voltage regulator. They can be configured as a constant current source.
Of course the subjective aspect of vaping is what makes us happy. And that is the most important part of it anyway. ummmmm pufffff, ummmm pufffff.
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I completely understand the mathematical part of this situation, however, practical analysis produces atypical results. That's what I am asking for an explanation of. My results were verified by two other coworkers. I realize that the tests I conducted were extremely subjective, however, there are no concrete, accepted tests for vapor production, throat hit and flavor. That's why I confirmed with multiple people.
Just because math says something should happen one way doesn't mean it actually WILL work that way. This is a hard concept for a lot of engineers to grasp, however, most, if not all, technicians I have ever met have noticed that exact thing. Sometimes things work a certain way, just because they do. Especially evident in RF, where it is more of an art form than a science.
Just because math says something should happen one way doesn't mean it actually WILL work that way. This is a hard concept for a lot of engineers to grasp, however, most, if not all, technicians I have ever met have noticed that exact thing. Sometimes things work a certain way, just because they do. Especially evident in RF, where it is more of an art form than a science.
If math and science say that something is going to perform a certain way.. and it doesn't... then there is a flaw in the math and science that was used. Most Engineers understand that perfectly. Those that don't should have their degrees revoked!
And coming from the wonderful world of inductively-coupled RF-generated plasma.... (M=0, Resonant Induction used for semiconductor etch and CVD) I can tell you that RF is absolutely a science.... a very, very complicated science!!
What most likely got you with the empirical analysis was the aggregation of other variables. Vapor production is a nasty equation that involves wattage (heat generation), heat loss (conduction and convection), liquid delivery rate, and the latent heat of vaporization for the specific liquid that you are using. You have to try to hold the other variables constant while you evaluate the change in one specific parameter.
I think if you were to pick up atomizers of a specific type (and hopefully construction) with varying resistances, you would clearly see that fixed current isn't the way to go. For example... if you were to get 510 style atomizers (hopefully from the same manufacturer) in 1.6Ω, 2.2Ω, 4Ω, and 5Ω and feed them all with the same fixed current, cartridge, and liquid... you would see that the heat generation and vapor production would be all over the map.
The fun of experimenting and developing your own approach to this is what keeps most modders going. Those that are perfectly happy vaping a store bought 510 are missing out on this "fun".
May I also suggest that in addition to varying the resistance in your testing that you are also varying the type of atty. Different atty designs produce different results. I'm primarily a big battery 3.7 volt guy, just don't like high power, high voltage, harsh throat hit, etc. 3.7 does me fine. But some attys/cartos just don't do well at this level.
There is probably a current level that will produce acceptable results for atty resistance over a limited range (2 amps produces 10 to 12.8 watts with 2.5 to 3.2 ohms). But that same current will not work worth a hoot over a wider range like 1.5 to 4.2 ohms, giving 6 to 16.8 watts.
If you take the total range of 510 type attys, from LR to HV, one variable (atty design) will be eliminated from your experiment and allow a more consistent experiment.
There was a modder somewhere in these threads that was thinking about a PIC based power monitor. Now that would be consistent. The adjustable (auto or manual) sounds like a cool idea, but I use an adjustable vacuum source to regulate mine
May I also suggest that in addition to varying the resistance in your testing that you are also varying the type of atty. Different atty designs produce different results. I'm primarily a big battery 3.7 volt guy, just don't like high power, high voltage, harsh throat hit, etc. 3.7 does me fine. But some attys/cartos just don't do well at this level.
There is probably a current level that will produce acceptable results for atty resistance over a limited range (2 amps produces 10 to 12.8 watts with 2.5 to 3.2 ohms). But that same current will not work worth a hoot over a wider range like 1.5 to 4.2 ohms, giving 6 to 16.8 watts.
If you take the total range of 510 type attys, from LR to HV, one variable (atty design) will be eliminated from your experiment and allow a more consistent experiment.
There was a modder somewhere in these threads that was thinking about a PIC based power monitor. Now that would be consistent. The adjustable (auto or manual) sounds like a cool idea, but I use an adjustable vacuum source to regulate mine
Still on the boat?
I wonder what kind of near field level I would need to vape from an antenna?
Maybe a 37 ohm atty would help.
I wonder what kind of near field level I would need to vape from an antenna?
Maybe a 37 ohm atty would help.
And coming from the wonderful world of inductively-coupled RF-generated plasma.... (M=0, Resonant Induction used for semiconductor etch and CVD) I can tell you that RF is absolutely a science.... a very, very complicated science!!
I think if you were to pick up atomizers of a specific type (and hopefully construction) with varying resistances, you would clearly see that fixed current isn't the way to go. For example... if you were to get 510 style atomizers (hopefully from the same manufacturer) in 1.6Ω, 2.2Ω, 4Ω, and 5Ω and feed them all with the same fixed current, cartridge, and liquid... you would see that the heat generation and vapor production would be all over the map.
designing them might be a science, but making them work is definitely not. When you take into account the human error when assemblers build units, one component placed a fraction of a millimeter off, a 6-1847-SAT inductor coil being spread out a little during install, a little more solder used to install a FET, can and will cause unexpected operations. Even stub tuning is an art form. What works for one unit will never work identically for another unit. Engineers try to make tuning guides all the time at my job, "solder a 1mm x 2mm stub to trace here to increase gain my .7 dB" guess what? that rarely, if ever, works like they plan.
I would love to test what you have proposed, however I have not found that much variance between the exact same atty. Mathematics nonwithstanding, when I held the current at a set amperage, all of my atty's performed almost identically.
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