How many times can you reuse the same coil?

[Shadav]

So i bought these mesh coils (strips) off of ft around christmas, so got them probably middle of january.....and i'm still using the same coil....
$2.88 Authentic XFKM Kanthal A1 Mesh Wire - 0.13ohm (60-70W) / 10pcs/pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I've dry burned them and cleaned them once a week or every other week and so far haven't noticed any damage in the mesh
this is the best $3 I've ever spent
I have 2 profile rdas both with the same mesh in them that's been in them since I got these in the mail....
so I mean is there a point when you just say that na it's had enough? or if they clean up nicely just keep using them?

I can't tell if I've got vapers tongue going on or if there comes a point that the coil just doesn't give off good flavor anymore....???

 

[Jwaterski]

Never used mesh, so no idea about it, but normal wire I have had some that eventualy just didn't taste as good, so I switched them out. I have also changed some just to try something different. If it still taste fine, and you don't want something different, why change?

 

[SupplyDaddy]

When they no longer "clean up" or they start tasting off to you. Drive on!!!

 

[Opinionated]

How long can you? We don't actually know so it becomes user preference.

Some people are proponents of more frequent coil changes due to concerns from metals and oxidation being inhaled off older coils while others believe it's fine to vape as long as the coil is good...

I'm not exactly sure what is right or wrong myself, but I see no harm in changing your coil every month or two whether it needs it or not... this is what I normally do personally but often it's more out of a desire to change up the experience than out of a health concern.

If I was younger I wouldn't take the chance I'd spend the few extra cents and change out the coil every 1-2 months regardless of need, to stay on the safe side.

However, coils can definitely last 3 to 6 months and we don't know, to my knowledge, of any harm from using your coil for the life of your coil - so it's user preference I believe, but I'm sure others will chime in..

 

[sonicbomb]

When you smoked did you pick up used butts from the floor and smoke them?

 

[jandrew]

When you smoked did you pick up used butts from the floor and smoke them?

Didn't everyone?

 

[bombastinator]

When you smoked did you pick up used butts from the floor and smoke them?

....mine or other people’s?.... how out of cigarettes was I?

 

[bombastinator]

how long a coil is safe to use depends on which metal it is made out of. Kanthal can be used safely till it breaks. Ni and Ti both can be used for only one wick. SS I don’t know.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Ni and Ti both can be used for only one wick.

Curious as to why?

@Shadav – never tried the mesh strips you noted from FT, but the Wotofo and OFRF Kanthal strips can last quite some time depending on maintenance. As the mesh gunks up, it can develop hot spots which can lead to portions of the mesh breaking down. You’ll notice this as resistance goes all wonky! Dry burning at too high of a power, or allowing to glow for too long can also lead to the mesh breaking – again, if unnoticed the resistance will jump all over the place.

If your strip is gunked, use low power, and do not allow for it to glow for any lengthy period of time – I let go of the fire button just as it starts to glow. You’ll notice (or have noticed) that it may not burn off all the crusties evenly, and small portions of the mesh may continue to glow longer. It’s important to have the mesh glow, and cool down evenly. I found a light brushing and even running the mesh under hot water helps get rid of hot spots cause by burnt sugars.

And keep an eye on the profile of the mesh – it should remain as that smooth arc. Any deformation, dents, dings will lead to hot spots. You can try reforming it with the included tool, but most of the time once it becomes damaged, it’s best to just replace it.

 

[bombastinator]

Curious as to why?

@Shadav – never tried the mesh strips you noted from FT, but the Wotofo and OFRF Kanthal strips can last quite some time depending on maintenance. As the mesh gunks up, it can develop hot spots which can lead to portions of the mesh breaking down. You’ll notice this as resistance goes all wonky! Dry burning at too high of a power, or allowing to glow for too long can also lead to the mesh breaking – again, if unnoticed the resistance will jump all over the place.

If your strip is gunked, use low power, and do not allow for it to glow for any lengthy period of time – I let go of the fire button just as it starts to glow. You’ll notice (or have noticed) that it may not burn off all the crusties evenly, and small portions of the mesh may continue to glow longer. It’s important to have the mesh glow, and cool down evenly. I found a light brushing and even running the mesh under hot water helps get rid of hot spots cause by burnt sugars.

And keep an eye on the profile of the mesh – it should remain as that smooth arc. Any deformation, dents, dings will lead to hot spots. You can try reforming it with the included tool, but most of the time once it becomes damaged, it’s best to just replace it.

Poisoning issues IIRC. They both produce weird oxides when heated that are toxic but materially are fairly strong and coherent. They’ll stick to the coil if you don’t mess with it. As a result rewicking or dry burning either metal is “less” safe. HOW much less is one of those “well we don’t have actual hard data, just some indicators..” things so common in vaping.

Stainless has some nickel in it so it becomes a bit iffy. It can take “some” “lower temperature” dry burning. This is possibly one of those things that varies somewhat by individual spool of wire. I use pretty thin stainless coils and as a result they’re pretty beat up after 3 or 4 dry burns and I have to throw em out anyway.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Poisoning issues IIRC. They both produce weird oxides when heated that are toxic but materially are fairly strong and coherent. They’ll stick to the coil if you don’t mess with it. As a result rewicking or dry burning either metal is “less” safe. HOW much less is one of those “well we don’t have actual hard data, just some indicators..” things so common in vaping.

Stainless has some nickel in it so it becomes a bit iffy. It can take “some” “lower temperature” dry burning. This is possibly one of those things that varies somewhat by individual spool of wire. I use pretty thin stainless coils and as a result they’re pretty beat up after 3 or 4 dry burns and I have to throw em out anyway.

The majority of metals will have a toxic temperature threshold, what that threshold is I do not know. It’s Sunday, a day of rest for my Google skills (in other words, I can’t be bothered searching!)

Titanium Dioxide, which is commonly used in many products, is toxic if inhaled, but only begins to form at temperatures >600°C (1100°F).

I have not used Nickel, at least not knowingly for it is sometimes used as leads in blister-pack coils. But I have found that Ti does not gunk up as quickly as other more common metals. Perhaps that is due to being forced to use TC, thus mitigating burning, I do not know. But you can still clean the coil without dry burning it to glowing temperatures. Alcohol, or hot water can clean a gunked coil, depending on condition. I’ve even used pressurized steam with success. Regardless, these TC only coils can be used for more than a single wick.

 

[bombastinator]

The majority of metals will have a toxic temperature threshold, what that threshold is I do not know. It’s Sunday, a day of rest for my Google skills (in other words, I can’t be bothered searching!)

Titanium Dioxide, which is commonly used in many products, is toxic if inhaled, but only begins to form at temperatures >600°C (1100°F).

I have not used Nickel, at least not knowingly for it is sometimes used as leads in blister-pack coils. But I have found that Ti does not gunk up as quickly as other more common metals. Perhaps that is due to being forced to use TC, thus mitigating burning, I do not know. But you can still clean the coil without dry burning it to glowing temperatures. Alcohol, or hot water can clean a gunked coil, depending on condition. I’ve even used pressurized steam with success. Regardless, these TC only coils can be used for more than a single wick.

Yes. Because the toxic compounds produced by TC coils are fairly hard and tough, it is possible, using what seem to some to be quasi-heroic measures, to clean Ti and Ni coils without dry burning them. Generally though these measures are sufficiently expensive and time consuming as to make it cheaper and easier to simply replace the coil.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Yes. Because the toxic compounds produced by TC coils are fairly hard and tough, it is possible, using what seem to some to be quasi-heroic measures, to clean Ti and Ni coils without dry burning them. Generally though these measures are sufficiently expensive and time consuming as to make it cheaper and easier to simply replace the coil.

Running a coil under hot water seems pretty natural to me – I do it all the time even with non TC wire/mesh. Wash the toasty carbon away from post dry burning and giving the atty a clean in the process. And many use alcohol as a method of cleaning. I prefer to drink it! The pressurized steam is just something I tried simply because I own the equipment to do so. What’s expensive and time consuming is ones individual values and processes.

 

[charlie1465]

For me I find I notice a change in the flavour of both my mesh and clapton coils after a few dry burns and to me that's when they should be changed.

Do they get changed...aah well that depends how i'm feeling and yes in the past I have coils which have lasted a very long time also

So IMO the answer is if they taste the same as new after a dry burn and re wick keep using. If they don't change them

 

[RayofLight62]

Both my toaster and hair dryer do use Kanthal heating wire.

I never replace those wires.

An heating wire, or an heating strip, can be left in place for very long time.

Especially Kanthal, which develops a very thin coat layer of aluminium oxide, a very hard and inert material - aluminium oxide is the chemical name for sapphire.

It happens, with the use, that the heating strip gets consumed, dented, or scratched when you clean it; that is when you want to replace it; it will be after months of use.

Another case for replacing an heating wire, is with temperature control wires, made of Nickel, Titanium, or Steel.

When brought to red-heat temperatures (dry burn) they may incorporate sufficient foreign material, so their TCR can decrease, impairing the TC function.

So, if you dry burn TC wires, you should replace them often, to keep precision.

I don't dry burn TC wires, but only Ni-Cr and Kanthal.

 

[bombastinator]

Running a coil under hot water seems pretty natural to me – I do it all the time even with non TC wire/mesh. Wash the toasty carbon away from post dry burning and giving the atty a clean in the process. And many use alcohol as a method of cleaning. I prefer to drink it! The pressurized steam is just something I tried simply because I own the equipment to do so. What’s expensive and time consuming is ones individual values and processes.

Simply running the coil under hot water doesn’t wash off baked on carbon deposits though unless you use a pressure washer or something. I’ve tried. I always wash my coils when I dry burn them. It’s a prime reason I’ve got ageis mods. They can take the splashing. Hot water helps loosen stuff a little bit, but not even energetic use of a miniature wire brush will really remove that which needs to be removed. I still have to dry burn to get the carbon hot spots off.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Simply running the coil under hot water doesn’t wash off baked on carbon deposits though unless you use a pressure washer or something. I’ve tried. I always wash my coils when I dry burn them. It’s a prime reason I’ve got ageis mods. They can take the splashing. Hot water helps loosen stuff a little bit, but not even energetic use of a miniature wire brush will really remove that which needs to be removed. I still have to dry burn to get the carbon hot spots off.

And who says the coil must have baked on carbon to justify a wick change? Willing to bet that those who use such metals understand what is needed to mitigate toxins, therefore they adapt their own processes be it different means to clean a coil or just changing them out. There is no fact that a Ti or Ni coil can only be used for one wick!

 

[bombastinator]

And who says the coil must have baked on carbon to justify a wick change? Willing to bet that those who use such metals understand what is needed to mitigate toxins, therefore they adapt their own processes be it different means to clean a coil or just changing them out. There is no fact that a Ti or Ni coil can only be used for one wick!

Oh it doesn’t, but it happens eventually regardless. I generally have at least a little with a mere couple hours of vaping. Two days or so and the thing is a solid mass. I vape flavored DL, generally, though. Might take longer with unflavored MTL. The problem is one of instances I guess. There is an exception to every rule.

 

[Shadav]

When you smoked did you pick up used butts from the floor and smoke them?

hehehe I actually kept mine for later good til the last puff of burnt filter

Didn't everyone?

hehehe

....mine or other people’s?.... how out of cigarettes was I?

eh....not unless it was someone I knew

Curious as to why?

@Shadav – never tried the mesh strips you noted from FT, but the Wotofo and OFRF Kanthal strips can last quite some time depending on maintenance. As the mesh gunks up, it can develop hot spots which can lead to portions of the mesh breaking down. You’ll notice this as resistance goes all wonky! Dry burning at too high of a power, or allowing to glow for too long can also lead to the mesh breaking – again, if unnoticed the resistance will jump all over the place.

If your strip is gunked, use low power, and do not allow for it to glow for any lengthy period of time – I let go of the fire button just as it starts to glow. You’ll notice (or have noticed) that it may not burn off all the crusties evenly, and small portions of the mesh may continue to glow longer. It’s important to have the mesh glow, and cool down evenly. I found a light brushing and even running the mesh under hot water helps get rid of hot spots cause by burnt sugars.

And keep an eye on the profile of the mesh – it should remain as that smooth arc. Any deformation, dents, dings will lead to hot spots. You can try reforming it with the included tool, but most of the time once it becomes damaged, it’s best to just replace it.

I used the ones that came with the profiles one was the original wotofo used the other was the offr and they only lasted one cleaning maybe two before they broke apart....but these from ft...jesh...I can't believe my luck with these....

thanks everyone...I mean it's not like I ain't got more than my money's worth out of these, I may switch them out lol part of me is afraid too like I found the 2 unicorns lololol but seems the flavor just isn't there, I don't think it's vape tongue
maybe I'll clean them and set them aside for later just in case

 

[GOMuniEsq]

Whoa this is the first I'm hearing about poisonous oxides coming out of nickel. I must have been living under a rock.

Wikipedia says that Nickel(II) oxide is the only common nickel oxide, and that it can be formed when nickel powder reacts with oxygen to give NiO. Heating the metal in oxygen can yield black powder.

Elsewhere I have found that heating nickel plated wire will cause green NiO to form on the surface. A scientific paper shows that NiO dissolves in sulfuric and hydrochloric (muriatic) acids.

So if your nickel TC coils (Ni200) are green or black after dry burning then you had probably better clean them with acid.

Nichrome (NiCr a.k.a. Ni80) wire, when heated to red-hot temperatures (>700°C), develops an outer layer of Chromium(III) oxide which is harmless, but it is remotely possible to produce Hexavalent chromium a.k.a. Chromium(VI) oxide) a.k.a. Chromium trioxide which is nasty stuff but also highly reactive and said to light alcohol on fire.

So quench your nichrome in rubbing alcohol. (Side note: I already do this, and without a spark the stuff won't ignite.)

But both dry burning and acid washing will amplify the normal corrosion process and roughen the surface of the metal which makes it easier for particulate matter to escape.

A chemist’s advice: Don’t Dry-Burn your coil | Vaping Post

Dry-burning metal coils: is it a good thing? tl;dr Probably not. By Dr. Farsalinos.

Down side of not dry burning: it's impossible to tell when your dual coils are balanced or whether you have hot spots. Plus those carbon deposits are impossible to scrub off.

In any case, whatever you do, it's far better than smoking.