The costs of running this huge site are paid for by ads. Please consider registering and becoming a Supporting Member for an ad-free experience. Thanks, ECF team.

RDA How many watts do you vape 1ohm for better flavor?

Discussion in 'RDA' started by ellejewell, Apr 20, 2015.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Image has been removed.
URL has been removed.
Email address has been removed.
Media has been removed.
  1. ellejewell

    ellejewell Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 15, 2015
    Fl.
    Hey all, I just got my Igo L today and I made a 1ohm build. I have an istick 50w what would be a good flavor vaping wattage for this? I am used to 1.5-2.4 ohm builds. I could really use some help. I seems to be getting good vapor but not too much in the way of flavor. The first puff was good but after that not much. I am using 28g wire and cotton. Cotton is in nice and snug not too loose not too tight.
    Should I do a build with 32g wire at 1.8ohm for better flavor? I'm not looking to cloud chase I am looking for the most flavor production. Just not sure where to start.
    I have been reading on ohms but it is all still a bit confusing.
     
  2. ellejewell

    ellejewell Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 15, 2015
    Fl.
    no one? maybe this wasn't posted in the right thread :(
     
  3. dc99

    dc99 Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Aug 17, 2014
    earth
    There is no set wattage. The short answer is, Start low and turn it up till it gets where you like it. The ohms can play a part in some circumstances. Without knowing the coil size and airflow design it would be hard to guess. It just be cooking the juice. If your strictly after flavor you might try a little higher ohm load. Mabye a little tighter airflow
     
  4. Sgt.Rock

    Sgt.Rock Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 13, 2014
    The Poconos
    I can't help with your specific device but I'll throw out a few things for your consideration...

    Airflow has a direct impact on flavor.. in general terms, more air=less flavor in most cases.

    Flavor is also very device dependent. the same wattage vape in one device may produce a completely different result in another device.

    Your best bet is to test it out and find that sweet spot that works in your device for you.

    I wish I could give you a more specific answer but hopefully this helps you on your quest!
     
  5. ellejewell

    ellejewell Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 15, 2015
    Fl.
    I did 7 wraps of 28g which put me at 1.0 ohms I was aiming for at least a 1.5ohm but I guess I need more wraps. The air flow hole is 1/16th I believe? and there is only 1. Yes my thinking for flavor as well. I never tried a 1ohm before so I thought I would give it a go I find I don't like it very much. I wanted to use a thicker gauge wire so I could just pull out the cotton and pop in a new one without messing up the coils. I haven't tried this with the 32 gauge but it is pretty thin so I would think it would be easier to damage. Can I even get 1.5 to 2 ohms with 28 gauge wire?
     
  6. ellejewell

    ellejewell Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 15, 2015
    Fl.
    Yes I am finding completely different flavor balances with my different tanks this is my first RBA and I am trying to think of it as an easier to build tank! not sure if this is the right thinking. I noticed it tastes better at 8 watts seems pretty low to me as I usually vape 2.4ohm at 15 watts. IDK still doing some searching on this as I am waiting on replies.
     
  7. zoiDman

    zoiDman My -0^10 = Nothing at All* ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Apr 16, 2010
    So-Cal
    I build a lot around 1.2 Ohms with 28ga Nichrome 80. I also use High VG 10mg e-Liquids.

    I tend to vape around 12 ~ 15 Watts in Genesis style RBA's. And about 10 ~ 13.5 Watts in a Kanger Subtank Mini.

    Everyone has their own Preferences. I tend to like Lower Watts vs Higher Watts for the type of builds that I make.
     
  8. State O' Flux

    State O' Flux Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 17, 2013
    Seattle
    Your first and last questions have the same answers...

    If you are happy with build 'X' - but have no idea where to go from there - your previous favorite builds are your baseline from which to develop a lower resistance, higher performance build. Builds with more coil surface area... and the power to support that surface area.

    If you enter your "favorite" build information into Steam Engine (see first sigline below)... along with wattage, you will generate a value called "heat flux". Heat flux is the coil radiant heat (temperature) expressed in milliwatts per millimeter squared, or mW/mm².
    For our purposes... it's simply how warm you perceive your vape to be. Once you know a heat flux value you prefer... then you duplicate that value range (+/- a bit is OK), and perhaps begin to experiment with alternate values... values that you have complete control over.

    The purpose of lower resistance vaping is to obtain a larger coil surface area, along with a preferred temperature.
    The more surface area (and heat, within reason - there is such a thing as too hot :ohmy: ), the more juice can be vaporized... pure and simple.
    The lower the resistance (and thicker the wire), the more wattage is required to provide an adequate temperature to vaporize e-liquid.
    You can use this to obtain a large vapor volume and density... and/or to increase flavor concentrations, or bring a particular flavor note to the surface that isn't present in a lesser surface area or "colder" build.

    A few things to remember... Ohm's law formulas apply. Wattage doesn't care about your wire gauge or coils in parallel count... just the net resistance, battery voltage and the minimum wattage parity value the formula produces. Understand that, and you'll understand why using "forced" wattage that a high watt regulated APV provides, can be to your advantage.

    Heat flux does care about the wire gauge, coils in parallel count and net resistance, and is directly affected by them, both together and independently.
    Again, Ohm's law rears it's ugly head... for unregulated mech users that is. For them, get the build wrong and it's terrible, with no easy fix, save to adjust the build... get it all in optimal balance, and its fantastic.
    With a high-watt regulated APV, you are far less bound by Ohm's law in your build choices, and can compensate for imperfection with wattage fine-tuning.

    Click the second sigline below if you want to learn more about heat flux, coil surface area, applied wattage... and how to gain control of all the variables that make up - "the perfect vape".
     
    • Like Like x 3
  9. mcclintock

    mcclintock Ultra Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 28, 2014
    Resistance (ohms) is a very incomplete indication of what is going on. Higher power builds will tend towards lower resistance because that's how you get power out of a mech battery, and even with VV/VW you have to be between limits. It doesn't mean the build is suited to that amount of power, it means that much power will flow.

    Knowing resistance and the wire size allows calculating the next big number, heat flux. This is how much heat is trying to come out of each and every point on that wire and is in units of Power per Area, for a certain amount of power is put in. If the coil is bigger, it takes more power to make every point on it as hot. The coil can be made "bigger" (area) by making it thicker (lower ohm), or longer (higher ohm) (or dual etc.). There are disadvantages to going too far each way, mechanically etc. 28 ga. Kanthal is easy to work with.

    On a mech battery I'm using 6.5 wraps #28 on 1/16, contact coils with longish legs, about 1.1 ohms or 13 watts, could use a little more. It's a small coil. It would be suited to the small airflow of that atty. Use more or larger wraps to handle a bit more power, although getting and using full power with that mod would probably require thicker wire, twisted wire, or dual coils. BTW, with that atty, dual coils would need to be on the same side of the posts due to the single hole.
     
  10. Kor 214I

    Kor 214I Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 7, 2014
    Greeley, Colorado
    9 wraps will get you to 1.53 Ohms with 28ga (5/64 drill bit)
     
  11. Nomoreash

    Nomoreash Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Aug 9, 2010
    Chattanooga, TN
    I assume you're referring to a contact aka micro coil, If so then yes you can get 1.5 ohms using 28ga. 10 wraps with a 5/64” id or 8 wraps 3/32" id or 7 wraps 7/64” id should get you close.

    The thing is with 28ga being thicker than 30 or 32 in combo with needing more of it length wise to reach the same ohms it takes more power to heat it up. You can run in to lag time where it takes a while for the coil to get to temp. If you don't mind taking longer drags or or do a few primer puffs while the coil gets up to temp it's a not an issue.

    I personally use 28ga for lower 1 ohm builds and use 30ga for mid 1 ohm up to 2 or slightly over. 6 or 7 wraps using 30ga with a 5/64 id should get you right at 1.5 ohm with little to no lag while still being durable enough to hold it's shape and re-wick with micro coils.

    I try not to use 32 ga for anything, it's just to thing and springy to work with for my taste but still with a traditional spaced build where there isn't much room to work an/or a lower powered device it has it's place.
     
  12. Vapey_McVape

    Vapey_McVape Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 8, 2015
    Los Angeles
    Twisted 28, or maybe 26 if you have any 26.
    Shoot for 1.2 ohm around a 3mm which is 11 wraps of 28g. If you want to use 26 aim for .8 11 wraps.

    The coil ive been rocking for a little over 3 weeks now or so is a .8 26ga twisted 5mm id.
     
  13. mcclintock

    mcclintock Ultra Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 28, 2014
    Of course it needs more power, it's a bigger coil. It has to be driven with more power to ever heat up. It's true that a thicker wire will have a larger weight to surface area ratio and is a bit harder to heat up, but this is confused with more basic considerations. The difference between #28 and #30 is small. #18 could be seriously slow though. This delay is also completely due to the thickness. If the coil wire is also longer, it will need more volts to reach the same power and more power because it's bigger, but once these requirements are satisfied it should heat just a fast as the shorter one.

    That's got to require at least 7 volts to drive and 4 times the power (6 with #26) as a single 1.2 ohm #28. Her mod probably can't even drive it.
     
  14. Vapey_McVape

    Vapey_McVape Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 8, 2015
    Los Angeles
    She has 50 watts at her disposal why wouldnt she be able to power it? The istick 50 also goes upto 10volts i believe.
     
  15. mcclintock

    mcclintock Ultra Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 28, 2014
    ^^-- I know the 20W version only would put out the full 20W into about 1.1 ohms. In other words, power output drops when battery voltage has to be boosted. 50W into 1.1 would require even more voltage, or an even lower resistance would be needed to avoid the need for voltage boost. I'm not always willing to look up the detailed specs of a device (or start up Steam Engine) for an internet post, but if this were mine I'd either need to look it up, or realize it may not work if I try it.

    I'm running 12-13 watts into 28 ga. 1.1 ohms. A twisted 28 ga. 1.1 ohms would be 4 times as much coil so would require 48-56 watts to be equivalent. I ran about 22W into #26 so 4 times that would be 88W. There's an easy solution, use less wraps for lower resistance (needing the battery to boost that voltage less) and to make it a little smaller so it needs less power.

    I just don't see it that helpful to just say "try THIS ..." without explanation. If anything, most asking for help are already reeling from excessive unclear information. Your suggestion is a valid coil, for someone, but it's a big jump from where the OP was at, except she may have the materials to make it.
     
  16. Vapey_McVape

    Vapey_McVape Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 8, 2015
    Los Angeles
    The 50 watt will output all 50 watts when using coils .3 to 2ohms.

    I have it and run it at 45 watts with my twisted 26ga .8 , I had a 1.8 24ga running before at 45 watts as well.
     
  17. mcclintock

    mcclintock Ultra Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 28, 2014
    ^^-- knowing you've actually done it with that gear is significant. Seems a little marginal since you can't really turn up from there, and very well may want to.

    We got bogged down in coils and resistance -- it's easy to -- and I don't think this question has been addressed:
    How much power you need to get flavor (dense vapor, mainly) relates to the airflow through the atty. I was using a Doge clone which is big and diffuses the air and probably can produce good flavor in a high-power build, but I didn't have much luck with it (as the vapor gets bigger, effectively the atty gets smaller, and filling it with coils and cotton doesn't hurt either). Switched to a Derringer and have been able to get good flavor at low power. The Igo-L is a smaller atty so should be able to get flavor at lowish power, maybe not quite as low as the Derringer. Both can be sensitive to airflow issues such as the height of the coil compared to the air hole, etc.
     
  18. reindeer

    reindeer Full Member

    What RDA are you using? In my Magma, I get best flavour at 1.3 ohms, single or double, at 12-16 watts with a MTL depending on the juice. I currently run it at full air flow(which isnt saying much) and .7-8 duals for a good flavour/warmth combo. Occasionally I pop in a single twisted 28 for .6-.7 ohms, but I have to prime it then on the iStick. It doesn't hit as hard as a mech.
     
  19. zeus01

    zeus01 Super Member ECF Veteran

    Aug 19, 2011
    manila
    I used to have an igo-l

    a simplest advice I can give you without rebvuilding the whole thing ,again this will and most likely reduce the amount of vapor that you get..

    try to position the airhole on the other side,of the coil and not exactly in front of it.
    or try having the the airhole just abit close to the coil itself...
    then move up the wattage,until you find something
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice