How TC works? (physics, common sense, etc.)

[Alien Traveler]

Here is my taking on TC theory. Not that I am sure I am right, but hope in can serve as a starting point for application of collective wisdom.
Even worse: I am a TC novice...
But anyway...

1. When everything is tuned right, difference between TC and VW is minimal - TC can ramp temperature up faster, and that's it (below - diagram of temperature of a coil):

2. Preset temperature of a coil is not a real temperature of a coil. It is something like average temperature of a coil, because temperature is higher from inside. But it should not bother as, vapers. We are buying not thermometers, but mods for vaping, and they are working as they should. But if we want to understand the process of vaping a bit better we have to apply some physics. Temperature of coil surface in normal (not overpowered) conditions is determined mostly by boiling point of juice. Setting temperature higher than boiling point does not change temperature of surface, it increases temperature in the center of a wire, supplying more heat to surface, boiling more juice. Of course at some moment increase of "average" temperature could be too high, and surface will increase its temperature. It is called overheating. Then at some points (at defects of a wire or a wick) vapor pockets can be formed, leading to popping sounds and juice splashing. It is true for both TC and VW. TC shines in preventing dry heats - without proper cooling by boiling juice temperature spikes and TC very fast goes in low wattage (or even near zero wattage) territory. I really enjoyed vaping till wick was pretty (fully?) dry.

3. About ramping up. I used TC with only one mode (Pico) and one tank (Serpent Mini), so I can talk only about this setup. For sure, when I tried it for the first time I set ramping wattage to highest poin, 75W, and why not? Was disappointed - popping, splashing, which means overheating. I believe that with more realistic approach to ramping, diagramm should look like this:

So, now I use ramping wattage at 20W, and why not? I like long slow draws, initial 1/2 seconds are not so important for me.

3. About locking "cold" resistance - no opinion. I believe it is very mod-dependent, and only manufacturer's programmers can tell what is going exactly. I do know that Pico so far works fine without any locking. I tried to unscrew tank when it was hot (changed resistance) and screw it back - mod still remembered "cold" resistance. I tried to unscrew tank, let mod go to sleep, put tank back, and it worked. So, I never used "lock" feature.

 

[RandyF]

I don't understand how you VW line remains flat, on par with your TC line, throughout your draw. All things being equal, the TC line should flat line (so to speak) when it reaches the set temp you have set, whereas the VW should continue to ramp up until it is pushing its full power. TC has to back down the power the keep the line flat. How would VW keep the same temp without being able to back the power off?

 

[Alien Traveler]

I don't understand how you VW line remains flat, on par with your TC line, throughout your draw. All things being equal, the TC line should flat line (so to speak) when it reaches the set temp you have set, whereas the VW should continue to ramp up until it is pushing its full power. TC has to back down the power the keep the line flat. How would VW keep the same temp without being able to back the power off?

No, VW coil does not increase it's temperature all the time. It reaches equilibrium pretty fast, when energy supplied by mod is equal to energy spent on evaporation. More energy supplied - more juice will be evaporated. And evaporating has chilling effect on a coil.

 

[kbeam418]

Your' pretty much right. Here's how it works on a dna 200.

1;Your' device gets your' cold resistance.

2; Your' device applies pre-heat power to coil.

3; Coil reaches set temp, device drops power.

4; Device regulates power to maintain temperature.