How to make an unoxidized, hot spot free and cleanable coil

[petar k]

...first of all, you will need a "Genisis" type mod




and:



from left to right: ~5cm 0,25mm NiChr/Cekas/Kanthal wire, 10x20mm 400 mesh, 2mm, 1.5mm and 1mm borer/nail/needle... (in the rest of the text: "tool"), and tweezers. (1mm needle is not on the picture above)




part 1: wire coil


make wire loops on 2mm (in this case - borer).



loops/wraps should be tightened well, and they mast be all equally parallel wrapped.


now, mount the coil in your unit, and fasten below end of the wire to the shorter connector.




than, using a needle (small and sharp one), make (equal/parallel(!) spaces between the loops. when you do that, fasten the other end of wire to the taller/longer connector.





when you finish spacing, pull out 2mm "tool", and glow red the coil - for cleaning and resistance "stabilisation". also, it will make the coil stiffer, so it doesn't deform so easily.

when done, it should look like this:






part 2: mesh - wicking


roll the mesh around 1mm id. tool. make it tight and try to flatten/smooth the mesh's edges.




than, put inside the mesh 1.5mm tool, and tighten it.




pull out 1.5mm tool and push inside 2mm tool. now, the mesh's surface should be "perfectly" rounded and smooth.





...burning - not "oxidating". torch it once, and do it to the entire surface of the mesh. it will clean the mesh and make it stiffer.
also, before burning make sure that your 2mm "tool" is pulled of - actually pushed in, but only few millimeters, just to hold the mesh when you torch it.




now, put the mesh inside the coil. it must go through the coil very easily. make it just a little wider on the top so it doesn't fall inside tank.




so, it looks like this:





now, when you have perfectly shaped mesh coil - vape it!


note: 2mm id wide mesh should be made from just ~10mm mesh sheet because: it doesn't make too big pressure to the coil; it doesn't clogs too soon; and the most important - it wicks, and watts are not spent for mesh heating, but for e-liquid.

https://vimeo.com/48356854

btw, i apologize for my "English"

 

[kwalka]

Hello,
Thank you for the "Petar K" coil method, before this. I have been using it for a month and I love it. It works great every time, as you know.
Why does the mesh not short with it un- oxidized?

 

[petar k]

glad to hear that, mate.
it's because the pressure between mesh and wire is reduced, so electricity finds less resistance through the wire - like water. also, when you first make loops of wire on a drill bit, it takes even shape, so it heats equally in all parts. of course a mesh has to be as much as possible smooth and "flat", too.

 

[Radiikal]

Thank u dpt for the tutorial!

Sent from my Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2

 

[Steelvap3]

Coating of soot from the lighter is present as well, inhibiting e- flow..

 

[gdeal]

Petar K, ..all the way.

 

[kwalka]

glad to hear that, mate.
it's because the pressure between mesh and wire is reduced, so electricity finds less resistance through the wire - like water. also, when you first make loops of wire on a drill bit, it takes even shape, so it heats equally in all parts. of course a mesh has to be as much as possible smooth and "flat", too.

Oh ok, we would call this "the path of least resistance". That makes sense. Thanks

 

[petar k]

@Steelvap3 - there is no coating unless you heat the mesh on upper (yellow) part of flame. so, kip it to the bluish part.
@kwalka - i guess.

so, anyone new tried it? can you report results?

btw, there is the video on the bottom of the first post.

 

[ckone180]

I will give it a shot on my next rewick and report back.

 

[Durangler]

Your English is better than some people who's English is their only language!!
It's very easy to read your posts. Thank you for the tutorial.

 

[gdeal]

so, anyone new tried it? can you report results?

btw, there is the video on the bottom of the first post.

Tried it?

This is the only way I do my genny set-ups. (More than a dozen times over the last month or so). I saw your video a while ago and have never looked back at those other wrap your wire around the wick techniques. This is the best method to get an optimized working genny.

You sir are a genius.

 

[carlton M]

Thanks Peter K! You have saved my genny-vaping-life!

 

[petar k]

@Durangler - huh, thnx bro. that was stimulating my problem is that i don't have much (at all) chances to practice my english, verbally.

@ckone180 - just take your time, and carefully fallow the instructions it could seems difficult for a beginner, but once you master the method, you'll be getting 98.9% stable and good performing coils.

@gdeal, carlton M - i'm really glad to hear that. that's why i'm doing this, after all

 

[mogium]

I did it though I can't find a 2 mm drill bit I scaled it down

 

[TBinAZ]

Petar, you rock. I was in disbelief until I tried it a while back. I don't really care how or why it works, it just works.

Thanks, man.

 

[EDO]

Petar,

I wanted to ask before I do my next build, why do you wrap the coils so close to each other?...Your set up is so compact compared to any other build that I have seen. Is it possible to do your set up using a solid wick (much smaller hole inside) instead of a more straw like wick that you did in the video? Thank you.

 

[gdeal]

Good question EDO!

Petar K, What do you recommend for sizing of the wick hole compared to the actual width of the wick diameter. In your picture you seem to have a bit a space between wick and wick hole. What do you find as being an optimal spacing?

 

[petar k]

@mogium - you can use a nail, or anything similar. i used a drill bit (in the tutorial) just as an example.

@TBinAZ - glad to hear that, and yes, it's the most important that it actually works

@EDO - it's not about spacing between the loops, or how many lops a coil has, or what's the ID of a wire is - it's important that the loops are even and the spacing is the same as much as possible. why? because if you want a coil to heat equally on all the parts, first, it has to be even in all the parts (loops) the same applies for the mesh, too.

@gdeal - on those pictures, you can see 3mm wicking hole and ~1.8mm mesh. the space between, lives air (little bubbles) to get inside the tank and release the vacuum, so the liquid can wick the mesh. currently, i'm using ~2.5mm wicking hole with ~1.8mm mesh, and i think it's the optimum. i don't need the wicking hole to be 3mm ID, any more. because, the "chimney" in my wicking is ~1.6mm, and the bubbles goes throughout the mesh easily.

 

[gdeal]

Thanks Petar.

Now I am confused. In your tutorial, you use a 2mm tool to expand the 15MM width of rolled mesh, so you should have an outside diameter of ~2.2 mm. How did this become 1.8mm? Does the coil mesh tighten down after expansion and torching or did you change to a different tool to expand?

Edit: Sorry meant to say 10MM width of rolled mesh per instructions.

 

[petar k]

sorry, i missed that question well, first of all, you can use what ever you want to widen a wicking mesh. i mostly use a toothpick which is 2mm OD, to widen a mesh which was (before widening) rolled around 0.5mm needle. when i put the toothpick inside the mesh, it will expand it to around 2.2mm, but when i pull it out, the mesh will "shrink" back to some 1.8mm. than, before burning/cleaning the mesh (which has to be done because of two things: first, cleans the mesh, and second, it will stiffen the mesh and preserve the shape and outer diameter), you should also chack how it fits inside the coil. if it's too loosy, than expand it more, and if its too tight, than shrink it back. i also do that "trick" with a tootpick, to get more even and "smooth" shape/surface of a mesh.