How to make VV boxmod with madvapes stuff?

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hmm just using standard attys 2 ohm, that too low? yes the top tab is soldered. If he turns the voltage all the way down he can get the led to light (without atty connected) but as soon as the atty or volt meter even touched the connector it goes out. have tried several attys and different batteries, same thing.
 

hoogie76

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2 ohms is too low for 6 volts..

The voltage going into the board should really never be below 7.4 volts, assuming two charged batteries. To have 6.2 volts means that either a battery is off or something is causing a constant draw on the batts. Try checking each battery to see wht the voltage is.

good luck.

hoog
 

samsmom

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After ruining 3 of these Surface Mount boards I finally got one to work but I didn't solder the large pad to the board. Does the WHOLE pad need solder or just enough to "glue" the 2 together??? I would really love it if these boards were drilled for the pins of the regulator instead of the sm. It would be a lot easier for me. I have no problem at all with the PCB function of the 5V kit because it's not a sm. Any helpful hints would be appreciated!! Thanks!


I haven't found a heat problem with the chips yet but I do find that the easiest and fastest way to solder then on the board is to the tin the runs on the board then put the chip in place and just touch each leg wih the soldering iron so it sinks into the solder on the runs. I also solder the heat sink part of the ncp630 to the larger pad on the end of the board..

hoog
 

Zen~

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After ruining 3 of these Surface Mount boards I finally got one to work but I didn't solder the large pad to the board. Does the WHOLE pad need solder or just enough to "glue" the 2 together??? I would really love it if these boards were drilled for the pins of the regulator instead of the sm. It would be a lot easier for me. I have no problem at all with the PCB function of the 5V kit because it's not a sm. Any helpful hints would be appreciated!! Thanks!

Just enough to tac it down.
 

Robert T

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I must be lucky, mine isn't tacked down I just soldered the legs of the regulator to the board and it's been working for over a month no problem. All day, everyday. I didn't know it was suppose to be soldered, I thought that it was a heat sync. It is touching though. Version 1. My pot is not backward either, turn clockwise to increase voltage. For $4 I thought it was a bargain so I bought several. It cost me less than $7 to do the whole thing. If it quit tonight it was worth it.
 

Zen~

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I must be lucky, mine isn't tacked down I just soldered the legs of the regulator to the board and it's been working for over a month no problem. All day, everyday. I didn't know it was suppose to be soldered, I thought that it was a heat sync. It is touching though. Version 1. My pot is not backward either, turn clockwise to increase voltage. For $4 I thought it was a bargain so I bought several. It cost me less than $7 to do the whole thing. If it quit tonight it was worth it.

I've done version 1 both tacked and not... It runs cooler tacked. Mounting the pot on the back side of the board makes it work in the right direction, by the way.
 

Robert T

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I've done version 1 both tacked and not... It runs cooler tacked. Mounting the pot on the back side of the board makes it work in the right direction, by the way.

I didn't mount the pot directly to the board so in essence I did mount it to the backside. I have it about an inch below the switch on the front of the box. I soldered leads to the pot and soldered the leads through the backside of the board(actually I soldered them on the front, the wires went through from the back)I thought I was careful and routed the wires to the same hole as if the pot was mounted to the board from the front but I may have screwed up and did it right anyway. I never thought about mounting it directly the the back but can see how that would make it work in reverse. The only problem is I thought I had it turned all the way down on the first test but I had it turned wide open with a 2.5 ohm CE 2 in a MAP tank. Kind of a hot hit! That's the only 7+ volt hit I've ever done until I did a SS wick mod on a CE 2 and came out with 3.9 ohms for the coil. That was a lot nicer! Thanks for the tip about tacking it to make it run a little cooler, I could still do that I think, it can get pretty warm if you chain vape. I understand why and I would have built the EverCool if I could have done it for 7 bucks, pretty nice of hoog to put this together for us wasn't it? He's a sharp guy, got me hooked anyway!
 
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