How to use a multimeter?!

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Rachy_B

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Hi guys!

I'm thinking about rebuilding the coils on my EVOD but I really don't know how to use a multimeter! Its not something I ever thought I'd need to buy- or ask about!

I'm using Ego-C batteries, the 650Mah ones, and I wouldn't want them to short out so how would I make sure that i'm getting the right resistance when i'm using the multimeter?

x
 

skyztheLynnit

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Hi guys!

I'm thinking about rebuilding the coils on my EVOD but I really don't know how to use a multimeter! Its not something I ever thought I'd need to buy- or ask about!

I'm using Ego-C batteries, the 650Mah ones, and I wouldn't want them to short out so how would I make sure that i'm getting the right resistance when i'm using the multimeter?

x

Here is a video on how to use a multimeter that may help
Multi-Meter How to for Electronic Cigarette users - YouTube

Since you are using an ego battery.. i would recommend only using coils that are 1.8 ohms and above.

Here's a video for rebuilding evod heads that i found very helpful
Vapor Lady Lounge Rebuild a Protank Atomizer, eVod Atomizer A New Way - YouTube
 

DavidOck

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Red test lead in the socket marked (probably, or similar to...) VΩmA, Black lead in the socket marked Common.

Meters do vary in design (and accuracy), but put in in the lowest Ω setting it has, probably 200. If it has a separate power switch, make sure it's on! :blush:

Touch the probe leads to each other and note the reading. You'll need to subtract this from the coil reading, since the wires of the test leads also have resistance. Depending on the quality of the leads, this might be as much as the coil!

Then press one lead against the threaded portion of the topper, i.e. the 510 threads. Press the other against the inside of the air hole in the middle of the base. Read the meter, and subtract the earlier shorted lead reading.

Higher end meters have a Zero function - you short the leads and press the button, the meter "remembers" the value and automatically subtracts it, until the meter is turned off. Nice feature, but the price may put you off, and the subtraction is easy.

I usually use fine emery or sand paper the "pencil sharpen" the leads, so I get a needle tip. Makes it easier to "punch" through any oxidation on the connections.

Meters, especially at the low ranges for coils, will often exhibit a "bounce" in the reading. Try for firm and steady pressure to avoid that.
 

Coastal Cowboy

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Good for you in deciding to get a multimeter before venturing into the rebuilding of coils. You could do what many others have done, and rely on the electronics in mods like the Vamo to provide an estimate of the coil resistance, but isn't it a good idea to have two opinions? One from the mod, one from the multimeter. They'll be close and you'll be confident.
 

roonies

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The meter I have has the option to adjust the number, like on a bathroom scale. When I touch the probe leads to each other I can adjust back down to zero manually, eliminating the need to subtract that original reading. It's an older multi meter that my husband had. He's an mechanical engineer so I was lucky enough to have him give me pointers to go along with the videos I watched before rebuilding my vivi nova heads. I wouldn't consider rebuilding without the meter. Puts my mind at ease and serves to protect myself, which in turn serves to protect the integrity of the vaping community as a whole. Thanks for the informative post.


Red test lead in the socket marked (probably, or similar to...) VΩmA, Black lead in the socket marked Common.

Meters do vary in design (and accuracy), but put in in the lowest Ω setting it has, probably 200. If it has a separate power switch, make sure it's on! :blush:

Touch the probe leads to each other and note the reading. You'll need to subtract this from the coil reading, since the wires of the test leads also have resistance. Depending on the quality of the leads, this might be as much as the coil!

Then press one lead against the threaded portion of the topper, i.e. the 510 threads. Press the other against the inside of the air hole in the middle of the base. Read the meter, and subtract the earlier shorted lead reading.

Higher end meters have a Zero function - you short the leads and press the button, the meter "remembers" the value and automatically subtracts it, until the meter is turned off. Nice feature, but the price may put you off, and the subtraction is easy.

I usually use fine emery or sand paper the "pencil sharpen" the leads, so I get a needle tip. Makes it easier to "punch" through any oxidation on the connections.

Meters, especially at the low ranges for coils, will often exhibit a "bounce" in the reading. Try for firm and steady pressure to avoid that.
 

roonies

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It's actually a Micronta 22-221, and while this may also be overboard for just coils, my spouse is of the "use it up, re-use it, never throw it out" generation! For all I know, this may even have been his dad's! (I'll probably secretly order a digital....someone in the family has to stay tech savvy)


Sounds like an older analog meter, maybe a Simpson 260? That was the standard before digital - where personally I'd give Fluke the crown, but that's way overboard for just coils!!
 
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WarHawk-AVG

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It's actually a Micronta 22-221, and while this may also be overboard for just coils, my spouse is of the "use it up, re-use it, never throw it out" generation! For all I know, this may even have been his dad's! (I'll probably secretly order a digital....someone in the family has to stay tech savvy)
Oh snap..that is an OLD SCHOOL Radio Shack multimeter!!!
http://support.radioshack.com/produ...?sku_id=22-221&Name=Meters and Scopes&Reuse=N


multimetro-micronta-rango-18-22-221_MLM-F-3770138760_022013.jpg


Here is an "ok" one (digital) that shouldn't break the bank

Handheld Digital Multimeter Electronic Tester for Meausring DC and AC Voltage, DC Current, Diode and Transistor - Orange China Wholesale - ahappydeal.com
201208211754522870.jpg
 
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roonies

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Yep, that's the one alright! And there's a Radio Shack a few blocks away so now I even know where it came from! Checked your link...Thanks...it looks good but it's out of stock buddy....I'll probably just go for one I can screw my atties into. I like easy. And in a couple weeks I'll have a mod I can test them on. For the immediate future I'll be using the old dinosaur Micronta. :)

 

SissySpike

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This is why I would not get a analog multimeter
Analog
Display face of an analog multimeter

Resolution of analog multimeters is limited by the width of the scale pointer, parallax, vibration of the pointer, the accuracy of printing of scales, zero calibration, number of ranges, and errors due to non-horizontal use of the mechanical display. Accuracy of readings obtained is also often compromised by miscounting division markings, errors in mental arithmetic, parallax observation errors, and less than perfect eyesight. Mirrored scales and larger meter movements are used to improve resolution; two and a half to three digits equivalent resolution is usual (and is usually adequate for the limited precision needed for most measurements).

Resistance measurements, in particular, are of low precision due to the typical resistance measurement circuit which compresses the scale heavily at the higher resistance values. Inexpensive analog meters may have only a single resistance scale, seriously restricting the range of precise measurements. Typically an analog meter will have a panel adjustment to set the zero-ohms calibration of the meter, to compensate for the varying voltage of the meter battery.
 

roonies

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my coils are coming out to 2.5 pretty consistently. that works for me...no sub ohms at this point for me. thanks. :)

If you're getting one now, yes, digital is the way to go. But if you already have a functional meter, there isn't really a pressing need to spend for a new one. Unless you're going for sub-Ω, you're really just checking to make sure you're not shorted...
 

roonies

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VV_James

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