I am afraid one of my electric hookah-doodles may have perished. Can it be resuscitated?

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lolady

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One of my cherished electric hookah-doodles (genus and phylum: KR808d-1 manual pass through, provenance: vapor4life) has either completed its time as an electric hookah-doodle or fallen into a persistent vegetative state.

This is very traumatic, because I suppose I have killed it, or so displeased it that it no longer wishes to be my electric hookah-doodle, and I have no idea why or how this has occurred.

Everything was just fine, and I was away from the keyboard for maybe an hour and a half, if that. I didn't leave it plugged in, I always unhook them from the Special Wall Rodents, even if I'm just going to be away for a short time.

During the time I was away from it, no one else was even here, much less in my office hurting any hookah-doodles.

I know I didn't do anything sedation or loopiness-related to it, in fact, I was having such a good window that I had gone downstairs and made some pasta salad, which requires using both fire and sharp things, which I only do in the most auspicious moments.

I came back up, hooked both hookah-doodles back up to their respective Special Wall Rodents, put their cartomizers back on their little headless necks, and picked up the purple-adjacent one, pushed the pushybutton - and puffing did not take place!

I checked the connections. I swapped them around. I tried putting the cartomizer (one that had been filled by specially trained professionals at a factory, not me) that was SnapCracklePopping happily away in the white one onto the one that some might call almost mauve. It remained unresponsive.

I twirled the end of whatever disposable paper product was at hand into a point to remove the dirt. There wasn't very much. I tapped its end onto the napkin or kleenex or whatever it was as if it were a condiment container, thinking there was a blockage that would fall out. Nothing did.

I tried reasoning with it, pleading, every way I could think of to call back its spirit, all to no avail.

I looked through every single page of the "maintenance" section, and a pall of shame descended upon me, for almost none of the problems involved kr808d-1s at all, and not a single one was about an electric hookah-doodle.

And the suggestions for fixing wireless ones I shudder even to type!

It is a battery! Or at the very least, battery-inspired. And connected to an electrical cord! How could I dip such a thing into alcohol - which is a liquid!!?!

Finally, not knowing what else to do, I just put it in a box, and continued puffing with the white one alone.

To add additional stupidity to the whole tragic event, it was days before I could even bring myself to discuss it or to send off for a new one.

I can't really call it a "replacement," because you can't really replace an electric hookah-doodle with which you have bonded. Even if it was only your electric hookah-doodle for a month.

Do any of you know if there's anything I could do to resuscitate it that does not sound like Fast Track To Explosion Town?

In case there is some remedy that could be applied, I'm not so selfish as to let my shame and desolation keep some other person who needs to know and is too shy to ask from finding out about it, not to mention poor not-quite-lavender hookah-doodle. It never even got decorated.
 

AttyPops

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1) I'm starting a business for interment of beloved hookah-doodle remains, complete with headstones. PM me if interested.
2) In the unlikely event that a dead hooka-doodle was manufactured by Lazarus, it may function again. Questions:

a) Does the button/end still light up when pressed?
b) Is it charged/green on the end? (maybe this model doesn't indicate that, IDK).
c) What ohm cartos are you using? How old is the hooka-doodle (1 month... & was new)?
d) Did you try the paper-clip trick? (making sure the center connector is connecting by gently prying up with a paper clip).

The tape trick usually only works BEFORE there is a problem, as strain relief to avoid wire breakage. However, Devilooman's post below makes a good point... can't hurt to try it. The alcohol (91% ISO) is not conductive.... but impurites (like e-juice gunk) could mix with it and make it conduct. It evaporates away cleanly. Is used as a last resort for gunked buttons, and should be dried out thoroughly before use.

P.S. Even though you are on Indian land, you may not cremate Lithium Ion batteries, regardless of any regulations. They explode in fire. So see point #1 above.

P.P.S. FYI - It is traditional to provide a link to the late hooka-doodle's web page in your future obit. That way we know exactly what one it is/was.

P.P.P.S. I do remember seeing a reference to a wall wart not working with V4L PTs. I think it was on www.madvapes.com but I have not determined WHY they are not suggested. What wall wart are you using? Ah, here it is:
Please note: These appear to not be compatible with V4L passthroughs and we are working with V4L to see if the problem can be resolved.
So IDK what's so special about a V4L PT (no offense).
 
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Devilooman

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Alas I have had one hooka-doodle from V4L meet an untimely death myself. The only thing I could think of is that I broke its little tail and it could no longer receive electrical input :( I will say that with the broken tail it would work is I pushed and turned and did ugly things to it but only for a second... not long enough to placate its awful owner. You might try wrapping some tape around its tail to see if that will hold it steady enough to get some electricity. If the wires inside the poor thing's tail are completely broken though there is NO HOPE! WAAAAA!
 

lolady

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I am on Indian land
I hope you've been unplugging said Rodent from wall prior to unplugging PV from Rodent?

The Special Wall Rodents all live in a power strip.

They are stuck in tighter than the hookah-doodle, I think it would just fall out if I tried to unplug it first but I would pull out the whole power strip from the wall if anybody had told me to, this is just getting worse by the minute.

Does this mean the other one is sick now?

a) Does the button still light up when pressed?
No, but it never did. Was it supposed to? I like it when things light up.

b) Is it charged/green on the end? (maybe this model doesn't indicate that, IDK).
Not really. One end has an electrical cord, and the other end either has a cartomizer or a little silver nest for one to sit in. It doesn't charge up because it is plugged into the wall. I mean, it was. That is how it lived.

c) What ohm cartos are you using? How old is the hooka-doodle (1 month... & was new)?
Cuban Cigar. yes, a month. it was new and the cartomizers also came from the vapor for life company. I've used them on wireless ones and the other hookah-doodle too. Do you think they have been hurting it?

d) Did you try the paper-clip trick? (making sure the center connector is connecting by gently prying up with a paper clip).
I don't know what that is. The center connector, I mean. Maybe it doesn't have one, because the button never lit up?

P.S. Even though you are on Indian land, you may not cremate Lithium Ion batteries, regardless of any regulations. They explode in fire. So see point #1 above.

I know. If I can't call back its spirit, I will have to have a funeral for it according to its cultural traditions, but I would rather repurpose it.

Alas I have had one hooka-doodle from V4L meet an untimely death myself. The only thing I could think of is that I broke its little tail
I had read about that happening, and I did wiggle it, but it never gave an indication of receiving electricity. I am always very careful and gentle with their tails. I don't pull them and they sit right by me, lying in great loops.

Thank you all for helping. I know I have messed up the reply to atty pops, all the answers are there, I will try to untangle the boxes later.
 
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AttyPops

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That's OK. I edited a couple of things anyway.

Can you provide links?
What cartos do you get?
What PT is it?
What wall wart is it?

I'm asking so we can keep #2 alive, just in case I happen to be able to spot the issue, or someone else can. I can go into more detail, but it would help to know what you purchased if you can supply the links.
 
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Sugar_and_Spice

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Hi Lolady,
Have you tried using a different usb port? Does your computer have one? If so and it is a lap top I don't recommend continued use on it(but the desktops and towers are safe) but you could test it to make sure it is your hooka doodle and not the plug.....sorry if you have already tried this......
:)
 

Sugar_and_Spice

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I looked at the links you provided.....The charger doesn't say what the volts are ....Usually you need a 2 volt 2000 mah to safely run a passthrough.....especially a v4 life one... what type of warrenty does the company provide? They usually say on their website.......If it is only a month old, I'd send it back.....
:)
 

Sugar_and_Spice

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I haven't tried using any. After reading about problems and uncertainty with that, I decided to just keep them plugged into the wall.

I don't think a couple of minutes would blow the port.Just to test......and I use my passthroughs on my tower computer at all times.....Never had a problem.
 

AttyPops

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Thank you for that.

Looks like it has a battery inside and is a 3.x volt PT. The carto's don't say what ohms they are, but ...nm... sometimes things don't match up but these look like they are for use on that device. Same with the charger. If anyone has one of these and it is a 5v let me know, otherwise I'm assuming that this is the proper situation (3.x volt with battery). I'm surely not an expert on V4L... haven't happened to use them. These are general PT notes:

You only need the high-amp wall wart with 5v no-battery PTs. Low amp ones should be OK with this.

PT's often break, like devilooman (and others?) said, at the wire connection inside. Also, juice in the button is often a culprit.

The center post is the little metal circle inside the connector where you screw on the carto. Sometimes it gets pushed in too far, won't make contact, and then nothing works. Without a light on it, IDK how to tell unless you have a multimeter and can check it. You can try prying it up gently (unplugged). Then plug it in and try it.

The alcohol soak/dry may work, and de-gunk the button if that's the issue. IDK.

Bottom line... Is it still under warranty? Send it back if so. If not, try the least destructive things 1st, working up to ISO alcohol (91%... the ingredient list should say 91% isopropyl alcohol, distilled water... and that's all it should say.) Make sure it dries out and I can't guarantee this method at all. Haven't tried it.

The reviews had several people mention that that model died after a month or two.

FYI - If you are, or you have someone that is, handy with a soldering iron, or want to learn, you can make a 5 volt PT easily. There's instruction in the modders section. That's when you need the high amp (2.0 amps or more) wall wart.
 
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