I don't wanna :(
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Well, no choice now. The red wire broke, so off it goes Monday.
No soldering iron mod ??? maybe a friend has one ??? simple fix .
After reading this thread, I'm starting to worry. I've had a lot of these things happen. First I had a little trouble with a short that was solved by taking everything apart and cleaning with a q-tip and isopropyl. BuzzKill gave me that advice. Then I got a wild hair to try a dual coil which I've never tried and killed two birds with one stone and tried a homemade syringe tank. I'd never tried that either. Since I bought the 510 cap as well as the 901 I got on it, I changed the cap out and tried it. NOTE if you're just trying something, use an adapter. I think I left my buzz sitting upright with that tank on it because later I found juice on my batteries. I shoved a paper towel up there and got it as clean as I could. I can see the appeal of both the dual coils and the tank but, I missed my 901 atty. So I went to change back to the 901 cap and the terminal broke off the wire. It was tricky but, I managed to (sloppily) solder another wire on the end of the first one. After soldering the terminal on and putting everything back together, it's working fine.
After all that, I have one question and one complaint. Do I need to be doing anything else about that juice?
The complaint is that the buzz is so good that I'll go to this much trouble not to do without it long enough to send it back.
After all that, I have one question and one complaint. Do I need to be doing anything else about that juice?
The complaint is that the buzz is so good that I'll go to this much trouble not to do without it long enough to send it back.
Mickey you can always give your Buzz an alcohol bath by inverting it in a small glass (like a shot glass) connection side in the alcohol. Obviously you want to take the batts out first. Let it soak for anywhere from an hour to several hours, dry completely. That will clean out any juice that has leaked into the guts. No need to take the top cap off for that
These ARE electronic devices and cannot be treated as an old Tube Mod that is a battery holder .
Was I giving bad advice Mike? I know that it's not something you want to do every day, but if it's a bad idea please correct me.
Try a buzz m1a1 tank - not seeing any leaks
Actually, I think the carto was what leaked downward not the tank. The setup actually worked pretty well. Just wasn't for me. I had to loosen the screw a little to get it to fire.
No not at all ! , I was just stating a fact that people have to treat these things differently , I did NOT mean to come off like an ... SORRY !
Well, I'm still not sure I have an answer. It's working fine. Should I leave well enough alone or dunk it in some alcohol as a precaution. I can't get the good everclear here just 151.
Mickey I just use rubbing alcohol, but if you are working fine for now I'd hold off on the "spa treatment"
Nah, nothing of the sort. It's ok though. I need to get the switch I broke replaced and the PCB got jammed somehow so the voltage wheel turns hard. I also figured I'd do the bottom cap swap while I was at it. Might as well get it all done at once.
I know it was something I did. I had a carto stick and remove the screw at the same time. Then I had a leak. After a cleaned that up it worked for a week. Then it started cutting in and out. When I took the top off to clean it better it quit working all together. I know it was me. But didn't know what to do to fix it.
She's not going to like me much. I think I broke everything there is to break on it. lol
Mickey you can always give your Buzz an alcohol bath by inverting it in a small glass (like a shot glass) connection side in the alcohol. Obviously you want to take the batts out first. Let it soak for anywhere from an hour to several hours, dry completely. That will clean out any juice that has leaked into the guts. No need to take the top cap off for that
I have a bath question ... I had a little juice accident with mine the other. While I'm no sharing the details of the accident, I will say I'd be surprised if a little or more juice didn't get down into my buzz. I was thinking if I saw performance issues I would give it a bath... but does anyone know if that is good for the wood veneer?
lol yea, if it can be broken I'll find a way. If you need a destruction test I'm your guy. lol I definitely won't be taking it apart it again once it's repaired.
Disclaimer:
For those reading this thread and questioning the quality of the BP; I will state that my BP took a serious amount of abuse before it gave up the ghost. It took the red wire (the one that allows the BP to fire) breaking before it quit working. This is after juice flooding the internals of the BP, breaking the firing button (yellow nub), jarring the electronics from a fall and jamming up the voltage wheel. The reason the red wire broke is because the top cap had been removed and I didn't tighten it enough to prevent it from turning when removing a carto. Mike is now using Loctite to prevent this from happening. My BP is a first run model, where this hadn't been implemented yet.
In short, pick a top cap and stick with it or be sure to use Loctite to secure it in place when switching. The red wire is the the weakest link, goodbye.
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