I got the impression TC is unpopular - but why?
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TC can be as complicated or as easy as you want to make it.
But I dont find it to be any more complicated than using VW or VV with a 28,30 or 32 ga kanthal coil set at 6 to 10w.
220c is a hot vape, for me. I generally set the temp for about 185c to 200c and the power/wattage to about 25% to 35% above what I would vape in vv or vw and, well, thats it, I vape.
Right now I have fixed fixed voltage, unreg'd, vw and tc set ups in front of me and all I do on any of them is push the fire button and inhale. I dont find building coils any different for any of the set ups other than I have to have a more specific build for fixed voltage and unregd mods and that doesnt involve a complicated process to achieve.
I only use round wire, 28ga to 32ga, ss or KA1 and occasionally a fine ss clapton. Simple.
But I dont find it to be any more complicated than using VW or VV with a 28,30 or 32 ga kanthal coil set at 6 to 10w.
220c is a hot vape, for me. I generally set the temp for about 185c to 200c and the power/wattage to about 25% to 35% above what I would vape in vv or vw and, well, thats it, I vape.
Right now I have fixed fixed voltage, unreg'd, vw and tc set ups in front of me and all I do on any of them is push the fire button and inhale. I dont find building coils any different for any of the set ups other than I have to have a more specific build for fixed voltage and unregd mods and that doesnt involve a complicated process to achieve.
I only use round wire, 28ga to 32ga, ss or KA1 and occasionally a fine ss clapton. Simple.
That looks like what you want though you'll also want to check that it's annealed. I ordered on amazon (Temco RW0499, 26ga, Titanium Grade 1 (i.e. surgical) Annealed Round Wire). It's reasonably common so should be available in your market. Ti coils last a long time and contain no Chromium (an alloy in SS and Nichrome). Find a recommended/trusted source. I certainly think you will notice the difference for TC. BTW, don't dryburn with Ti coils. I clean by scraping coils with small screwdriver, and rinse or rewick every day or two. Let us know what you think.
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Amazon won’t ship it to me.
Locally also no luck so far.
I see Lightning Vapes have a Ti wire, can anyone vouch for them?
I ordered from them in the past and I like the service and fast shipping, products subjectively were fine (I.e. I had no problems, that’s all I can assess).
If you say they are ok, It will be the easiest thing for me to order from them.
Regarding NOT Dry Burning Ti wire -I’m aware of that, but I do have a question - usually, whatever wire I use (SS, Ni80, prebuilt wires) I always found that I have to dry burn them, otherwise they simply don’t work.
Just yesterday I actually rebuilt my MTL with the same 26awg SS, but 1.14 ohm this time, so before I dry burned it, it simply did not work.
What will I do if Ti will have same issue? (Basically I’m talking about the issue where a wire will not heat evenly, or won’t heat at all - only in hot spots, until you twist and scrape it a bit)
well, I strive for that as well!
I bet it comes with experience though!
I agree on the temp - I can vape with lower temps apparently. On mtl I rebuilt the coil, got a bit lower resistance, and it vapes fine on 180c. (Btw I don’t know if resistance is even a factor here, I’m just guessing, since that’s the only variable I can think of).
Also just for fun I built a dual coil (same wire 26awg) on one of DL I had, and it vapes just fine for me even on 160c. Go figure!
Your easiest solution would be to build spaced coils. They don't really have hotspots like contact coils do, and would eliminate that step when building.
And lightning Vapes is a good company. I order from them all the time.
well, I strive for that as well!
I bet it comes with experience though!
I agree on the temp - I can vape with lower temps apparently. On mtl I rebuilt the coil, got a bit lower resistance, and it vapes fine on 180c. (Btw I don’t know if resistance is even a factor here, I’m just guessing, since that’s the only variable I can think of).
Also just for fun I built a dual coil (same wire 26awg) on one of DL I had, and it vapes just fine for me even on 160c. Go figure!
Tc is like VW, the resistance has no real effect, other than in choosing the wattage setting in TC mode. So long as you're ithin the specified range, you're good to go. As to different temps with different tanks or builds, that's common. Not all perform the same way in vape characteristics at the "same" temp, things like airlfow come into play.
Vaping with a TC regulated mod is almost all I do. (in the image ALL the mods but one are TC regulated)
One of the cooler mtl rta's I have is the Savour MTL RTA. Same watts same coil its a cooler vape than the berserker, doggies, true etc. Ive tried analyzing why and the best I can come up with is slightly bigger chamber(maybe), or that the coil when set just above the airflow hole is further from the lips. I dont really know why it is cooler but I like it.
With the Savour I have no problem vaping in TC at 215C compared to the berserker and others at 190'ish Celsius.
Another example is the Nixon RDTA, small chamber, coil close to mouth, restricted airlow hot vape at any useable temp with the same coils. The Wasp Nano in comparison has a slightly larger chamber the coil is further from the mouth, more airflow and a much cooler vape even at 220c.
Its the same temp at the coil but not at the mouth.
It might have more airflow, or a more effective airflow. The better the airflow works, the more effectively it will keep the coil cool.
In vw, vv etc certainly. But with TC the chip reads and adjusts at the coil. 220c is 220c at the coil is all that the chip knows, thats what it will try and maintain at the coil. What happens to the vapour after it leaves that point of control is what the rta rtda rda design brings to the table. A bersker with the 4ml extension is a slightly cooler vape than the berserker in its 2ml form with the same coil for example. All that has changed is the distance the mouth is from the coil and the chamber ends up being slightly larger. Its the same deck, coil and essentially the airflow is the same but it moves through a slightly bigger chamber.
From my personal experience in using all three 3000 mah batteries, I prefer the Samsung 30Q. I first began using the LG HG2 about three years ago, switched to the Samsung 30Q the following year, and earlier this year began using the Sony VTC6.
I use my nearly dozen batteries in a random rotation. The LG HG-2 batteries, being nearly 3 years old now, cut out faster now. The 2 year old 30Q are still performing like new. The Sony's, not quite a year old, are beginning to fall in capacity performance already. Next batch that I order next year will be 30Q's.
The LG-HG2 and the Sony VTC6 batteries don't seem to last quite as long during use (capacity) for me. I seem to get a bit longer run time per day with the Samsung. Not a "scientific" observation, mind you, as I don't keep written records. I'm not really a fan of pink, so I kind of wish the chocolate or green batteries lasted longer.
For the record, I'm using either a JAC Vapour series B DNA75W or Geekvape Aegis Solo, both around 25 - 30 watts. I use a DTL draw, and fall in between a Tootle Puffer and a high wattage vaper.
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I've always used TC. If the vape is to hot I add a wrap to my coil, if the vape is to cold I remove a wrap from my coil. (rocket science)
AND, these old 25r's work just fine @ 2 amps
AND, these old 25r's work just fine @ 2 amps
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Yes, chamber length does effect the temperature of the vapor as it enters your mouth, since it has more material to interact with and transfer heat to, and more time to cool off. But airflow will also cool off the vapor AFTER it leaves the coil, so the mod's chosen firing mode really has no effect on that. The temperature setting is a calculation (based off of live ohms readings) of the coil, not the temp of the vapor itself, so factors such as drip tip length and bore, distance from coil, airflow amount and direction, coil positioning, and draw strength all have an effect on the vapor temperature as it exits the atomizer using any firing mode.
And sorry if I misspoke earlier, I meant to say vapor cool, not coil cool.
Yeah, we are kinda saying the same thing. Chip reads the coil not the vapour. It doesnt care what the airflow does to the coil, it will compensate at the coil and keep it at the set parameters. Everything after is the rta.
It's important to remember just because you set you device to 220C doesn't mean you're vaping at 220C (the coil). That is the cutoff you set. If you have a compatible chipset, you can use something like eScribe for DNA chips or ArcticFox for eLeaf compatible stuff and see everything in real time. It's quite possible you may only be at 170-180C with your settings. The curves will tell you the truth.
Most mods will flash temp protect if you do reach the temperature set. That's not an error, just that you, the coil, have reached the set temp, and the mod is throttling power to prevent the temp from rising any further (actually the resistance, as that's what the mods knows, which it calculates from the TCR/TFR or TFR curve it's working from). That temp protect notice is in fact a simple way to know if you really have reached the temperature you entered.
It does have an effect in that higher airflow will keep the coil cooler, so the mod will deliver more power to try and reach the target you set in selecting the temperature. The best way to see this is with a real time graph of the mod and coil's behavior. But essentially yes, the mod will adjust to watever airflw conditions you have to maintain the proper resistance/temperature, and after that, it's the chamber, chimney and drip tip.
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my Wifey is allergic to Evil Genius Cats, so I guess I'll have to miss out on using that hi end technology
Never mind oops
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