I ruined my vv pv with did clone :(

[danwelsh]

Hi guys, heads up......be careful when rebuilding anything with a metal casing. I just recently fried my vv pv after building a wick/coil setup....here's the story :

I'm at work on break and figured I'd do a rebuild, got out my ohm meter, did clone, wire and mesh(already oxidized and rolled) , wrapped my coil using the drill bit method, ohm check, no shorts, put it on pv, fired it up at 3.3, no hot spots.....ok, cool, everything good so far...take it off pv, but my mesh in, ohm check....2.1 ohms, cool, this'll be awesome, back on pv, fired it wet, awesome cloud......here's where the sketchy comes about, I screw the metal cap on, take a few toots, ok cool works well, put in my pocket (fatal mistake .....should have checked ohms again, it was shorting) ...I take it out about 3 minutes later and I'm thinking damn that atty is hot......holy crap, case is hot, I open it, spring collapsed, both 18650s hot( I take em out), take off Atty, now my pv broken, its not the batteries, I tried em in a different pv.......this is what was causing it, the mesh was sticking up far enough just past the center post that it was contacting the inside sidewall of the cap(positive and negative together, not good!)....I'm lucky I didn't blow myself up. Be careful guys when doing rbas.

 

[Rule62]

What kind of PV was it?

 

[danwelsh]

A vv Ouija tin....I build my own Pvs, I've decided to add inline fusing to them now to prevent this from recurring

 

[chuckie]

The atty doesn't fire itself or create it's own power.

 

[danwelsh]

When it collapsed the spring it also fried my button connection so it was like the button was always on

 

[tc1]

When it collapsed the spring it also fried my button connection so it was like the button was always on

Sorry to hear about this. Your pv was definitely firing in order for this to happen.

 

[Royaldrunker]

That sucks dude

I just redid 3 did clones this morning and never thought the mesh would contact the cover...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[chuckie]

It has nothing to do with the mesh contacting the cover.

 

[tc1]

Indeed. The ONLY way this happens is if the device is continuously firing. The atomizer can't draw electricity by itself.

So either your firing button was pushed in accidentally, your switch went bad, or something conductive came into contact with your switch that caused the circuit to open and not close.

 

[danwelsh]

It has nothing to do with the mesh contacting the cover.

ok you wrap one and let the mesh hit the side, then fire it up, lemme know what happens. If the mesh wasnt hitting the side, I wouldn't have burned out my pv, i would've just popped the coil.

 

[tc1]

ok you wrap one and let the mesh hit the side, then fire it up, lemme know what happens. If the mesh wasnt hitting the side, I wouldn't have burned out my pv, i would've just popped the coil.

Providing your wick is oxidized, it shouldn't do anything. No different than a wick touching the wick hole.
A coil won't always pop with continued current either. If it can handle the current ... it's not going to pop. If continued current could cause wires to eventually overheat and break ... we'd never be able to use power cords for very long. I've seen coils that take forever to pop.

I think the point here is that your device was sending electricity to the atomizer. That's what caused the damage in the end. Even if you have a short ... it can't cause any damage without current flowing through it. Even with no short, continue power sent to the atomizer can cause your components and battery to go thermal.

Sucks to lose a pv though so I wish you luck with the next rebuild.

 

[spraintz]

Actually if you had a long piece of mesh and it was touching the cap or housing or base or any other ground contact point nothing would short out at all if no power was being supplied to the coil.

I think the point here is that the mesh is not a primary cause of the failure. If yer device has a switch and it it not engaged to complete the circuit the no power will go to the coil, if no power is going to the coil it doesn't matter if the mesh was touching or not.

Now, the suggestion is to investigate the switch or of "power switching" component in yer mod as a shorted wick against ground will not automatically complete the circuit.

Furthermore, if the mesh wick is properly oxidized then it is isolated from the coil anyways and the wick touching the cap or base or side will still not short. Want an example? I have been running for 2 days on my new ZAP and I made the wick a lil too long by accident and it has been touching the inside of the top can and the edge of the wick hole and the base and mines not mysteriously shorting out.

Not trying to be hateful brutha, bummer that yer mod tanked but at least ya didn't get hurt. I am guesing that yer switch started to fail and stayed engaged over firing the device, making it too hot and collapsing the spring not the other way around.

Hope ya get back up and running soon.

 

[Kamoch]

I agree on the mesh hitting the top cap not being the cause. I have a DID Gemini & noticed that on the inside of the top cap ther are scratch marks where the top of the wick contacts when screwing the top cap on. This concerned me at first due to tje probability of + &- contact as you mentioned earlier. However, I have not experienced any shorts so far. It does make sense that as long as your wick is properly oxidized it should not conduct electricity from your coil.

 

[eHuman]

I build my own Pvs...

Ok (since you are building your own MODS), what you are describing is possible without the fire button being pressed only IF the switch is wired to the negative terminal of the battery. See PIC#1

In this configuration, grounding the coil via the wick will bypass your switch and complete the circuit causing what you described.

To avoid that possibilty, wire the switch to possitive battery terminal:

In this configuration, grounding the coil via the wick will NOT bypass your switch and will NOT complete the circuit, and will NOT cause what you described.

You say that your PV fried. I assume that you mean the voltage regulator and/or amplifier fried as you said the batteries still worked and I assume that your coil was intact), are they (chipset) protected againt high continuous current?

Analysis, one of the following:
1. PV wired incorrectly.
2. Switch closed/made contact while in pocket.
3. Switch failed in the closed position (next to impossible).

 

[danwelsh]

Yes, the mod was correctly wired, and i burned out the voltage regulator, i didn't install an on/off switch as i didn't think it necessary because for one, it's mine and for two the fire button is on the side which i've been using for the last 6 months with no problems....i must have leaned on something and fired the button...anyways, i converted it over to 5 volt regulated until my new v2 madvapes vv board comes in.I always check and re-check my wiring when building these things because i don't want one going off in my face.

 

[unloaded]

What switch are you using? It's possible that when the top hit the mesh it disturbed your coils causing them to partially short making it a much lower resistance coil. This could have collapsed the spring in your switch allowing it to remain engaged. This is just another scenario of what could have happened. New coils are kinda finicky and can easily get hotspots until they are broken in a bit.

 

[eHuman]

The on/off switch in the diagram is the fire button.

What switch are you using? It's possible that when the top hit the mesh it disturbed your coils causing them to partially short making it a much lower resistance coil. This could have collapsed the spring in your switch allowing it to remain engaged.

Unloaded, look in the second diagram above. What you decribe can only happen when the partial coil short is present AND the fire switch is depressed. In order for the switch to have stuck due to the partial short, he would have had to put the thing in his pocket while it was still firing and pouring out vapor... or after the switch mis-firing while in his pocket. In either case the switch collapsing is a symptom of the problem, not the cause of it. Does that make sense?

 

[eHuman]

Danwelsh, your design sounds solid. (I'm being obvious here) but concider the possible solutions to resolve your issue for when you repair your MOD:
A recessed fire button
A lockable fire button
Addition of an on/off safety switch

 

[unloaded]

In OP he says that after he put the cap on he took a few toots before putting it in his pocket. If the new coils were disturbed while putting the cap on it could have dropped the resistance enough that the few toots were drawing enough amps to collapse the spring in the switch (depending on its amp rating). A springless switch is likely to fire continuously once placed in the pocket. I've had the small 2amp RadioShack buttons do this on me before. Luckily it was a Puck setup with NiMH batts at 4.8v, they got hot but weren't really gonna do any more than that.

 

[StereoDreamer]

Carrying a PV in your pocket that doesn't have a lockout on the button or a way to disable the power is like putting a loaded revolver with a hair trigger in your pocket with the hammer cocked, and not in a holster.

The principals of Darwinism are dangerous things, especially when you don't respect them...