I want to get a mechanical mod

[zandersig]

Hi guys, I'm sure this has been asked alot in here but since there is so much me stuff out now I wanted to ask this question again.For about 6 months I have been using a SmokTech SID and it's been a great device but now I want to upgrade and get a mech mod so I can do some cloud chasing. What would be a good mech mod for me? I want to get one in the price range of $30 to $60 dollars. I have looked on fasttechs website and man they have a ton to choose from.

I want to get one that has a 510 connection and an eGo connection.
One that uses the 18650 battery, looks pretty cool and has the firing button on the side (not on the bottom).


By the way do they make a mech mod that will do sub ohms and has the digital screen on it so you can adjust the volts, check ohms, etc?

Thanks guys for your help and suggestions.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Mech mod=mechanical device without digital displays or internal electronics.
Your in the right forum, so spend a bit to read some of the threads so you totally understand what mechanical mods are, what they do, and why we use them.
Then you can decide if mechs are right for you.

The cool factor ( the look) isn't why we use mechs.
Well, not the only reason.

 

[eastwest]

A lot of people on here have recommended the Hcigar nemesis clone so that's what I ordered as my first mech. Waiting for it to arrive. I purchased it from vaperoyalty. They have a bunch of different nemesis starting at $30.

 

[Ed_C]

Mech mod=mechanical device without digital displays or internal electronics.

In fact, most people don't consider a mod "mechanical" if it has even a single wire in it.

Mechs hardly ever have eGo threading and there's not nearly as many with side buttons compared to bottoms. You'll need to learn how to make coils and learn all about ohm's law. There's tons of good info here.

 

[Baditude]

A mechanical mod is a bare-bones battery holder. No digital display or circuit board to regulate or adjust the power.

You could put a Kick into the mechanical mod to regulate the power and adjust the power. This is a drop in circuit board that essentially turns a mechanical mod into a variable wattage mod. Still no digital display. The power is adjusted by turning the potentiator screw with a cross-thread screwdriver. The Kick sits on top of your battery inside the mod body. You may need to drop down a battery size (18650 to a 18490) to make room for the Kick. The Kick requires a high drain IMR battery.

Evolv Kick 2

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries

Battery Basics for Mods

 

[ADLinATL]

Don't worry about an ego connection. Once you take a real hit off a mech you won't want to use an ego again. Honestly for that price range you have to look at clones. I've bought three clones off fasttech and they work but I would up the money and get a real mech because they work a lot better.

 

[Ryedan]

By the way do they make a mech mod that will do sub ohms and has the digital screen on it so you can adjust the volts, check ohms, etc?

You really should do some research into batteries and mechanical mod safety issues. There's a lot of info here:

One Stop Reference Shop For New and Experienced Vapers.

Pay particular attention to anything with 'battery', 'sub ohm', 'power' and 'ohms law' in the title.

Hope this helps

 

[brickfollett]

Don't worry about an ego connection. Once you take a real hit off a mech you won't want to use an ego again. Honestly for that price range you have to look at clones. I've bought three clones off fasttech and they work but I would up the money and get a real mech because they work a lot better.

I love my Infinite Stingray. Personally I wouldnt say that the authentic would do any better of a job than my clone, I mean really, how many ways can you improve a battery tube? Sure the button is a bit more wobbly that I would prefer, but gosh dangit that sucker hits like a champ.

OP, a side button mech isn't real common. As previous posters said, most are bottom button. Having a side button would likely require at least a couple wires, or an internal system with a higher failure potential. That said, I believe Baditude has a silver bullet if I'm not mistaken, which is one of the oldest, most dependable mechanicals in the industry, and I believe has been around since before ego batteries.

Also, having a side button, with whatever internal mechanism my head is trying to wrap itself around, seems like it would require the electricity to have to... travel more. This means more of a voltage drop. Your standard 18650 battery puts out 4.2 volts. A good device will have a .1 volt drop, meaning 4.1 volts (correct me if I'm wrong guys!) the more this voltage drops, the less power is delivered to its destination, which is your atomizer. and less power there means less of a hit.

Do LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS of research before you even think about getting a mechanical. Rewarding when you do it right, disastrous if you do it wrong.

I mean its easy enough once you have a concrete understanding of what exactly is going on, relation of volts to ohms, amps, watts (don't think people really bother figuring out watts with mechs) but put it this way. My Provari had a max of 3.5 amps. I could comfortably run a 2.4 ohm atty at 6 volts. I believe this was close to the limit. I can run a .2 ohm atty at 4.2 volts (standard battery output on the mech). I don't know how to do the math, but that's a heck of a lot of power being unleashed at once. And not a thing to protect you if you have a faulty battery and/or a device that doesn't have ventilation. Tiny little hole on the bottom of the Provari? Safety feature. little channels in the bottom threads on my stingray? safety feature. Make sure it has it.

 

[Baditude]

OP, a side button mech isn't real common. As previous posters said, most are bottom button. Having a side button would likely require at least a couple wires, or an internal system with a higher failure potential. That said, I believe Baditude has a silver bullet if I'm not mistaken, which is one of the oldest, most dependable mechanicals in the industry, and I believe has been around since before ego batteries.

It's true. I use a mechanical Silver Bullet from AltSmoke. It was my very first mod, is nearly 2 years old, and is still in great condition. It has a side fire button. It does have a wired switch, so its not a strict mechanical mod. $85. You can put a Kick 2 in the Silver Bullet for power regulation if you get the $25 Kick sleeve. A real SOLID mod built in Ohio by a guy named Chad. Should you ever have a problem with the mod, you can send it to AltSmoke and Chad will get her fixed up for you.

I currently use a Kayfun Lite + rebuildable tank atomizer on my Silver Bullet (1.3 ohm microcoil with organic cotton wick).

View attachment 333589 View attachment 333591

AGA-T2 RBA and cartotank on my Silver Bullet

 

[Bad Ninja]

All the advice given here is solid.
Follow the links provided.
It seems like a lot to take in but it's not.
Mechanicals can be dangerous, buy once you know what you the doing they are safe.

Filling a car with gas is more dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.

 

[brickfollett]

All the advice given here is solid.
Follow the links provided.
It seems like a lot to take in but it's not.
Mechanicals can be dangerous, buy once you know what you the doing they are safe.

Filling a car with gas is more dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.

Guy at a mechanic shop told me one time about some kid that got an oldschool jeep wrangler with a huge lift and a monster V8 motor. Decided to engage in a drag race at a stop light and it popped a wheelie and flipped over. Backflip status!

Don't pop a wheelie on a mech!

BTW, love you signature

 

[havoc1967]

Of the mech mods I have (and considering the $30 to $60 price range) I would recommend either the Magneto or the Natural. I own and use both. Prefer the look of the Magneto, but both perform great.

 

[bsoplinger]

If you really want a side button here are some clone choices: Poldiac (real one top or bottom, not sure about clone may be top only), 69 (made by Atmomixani the designer of the Nemesis, top button) and certain Sigelei but I'm not sure which numbers, some are top and others bottom, I don't think any are both.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[Bad Ninja]

If you really want a side button here are some clone choices: Poldiac (real one top or bottom, not sure about clone may be top only), 69 (made by Atmomixani the designer of the Nemesis, top button) and certain Sigelei but I'm not sure which numbers, some are top and others bottom, I don't think any are both.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

69 is top side button or bottom side button.
You can reconfigure to suit your tastes.
That's why they call it the "69".

 

[blueGrassTubb]

I love my Infinite Stingray. Personally I wouldnt say that the authentic would do any better of a job than my clone, I mean really, how many ways can you improve a battery tube? Sure the button is a bit more wobbly that I would prefer, but gosh dangit that sucker hits like a champ.

OP, a side button mech isn't real common. As previous posters said, most are bottom button. Having a side button would likely require at least a couple wires, or an internal system with a higher failure potential. That said, I believe Baditude has a silver bullet if I'm not mistaken, which is one of the oldest, most dependable mechanicals in the industry, and I believe has been around since before ego batteries.

Also, having a side button, with whatever internal mechanism my head is trying to wrap itself around, seems like it would require the electricity to have to... travel more. This means more of a voltage drop. Your standard 18650 battery puts out 4.2 volts. A good device will have a .1 volt drop, meaning 4.1 volts (correct me if I'm wrong guys!) the more this voltage drops, the less power is delivered to its destination, which is your atomizer. and less power there means less of a hit.

Do LOTS AND LOTS AND LOTS of research before you even think about getting a mechanical. Rewarding when you do it right, disastrous if you do it wrong.

I mean its easy enough once you have a concrete understanding of what exactly is going on, relation of volts to ohms, amps, watts (don't think people really bother figuring out watts with mechs) but put it this way. My Provari had a max of 3.5 amps. I could comfortably run a 2.4 ohm atty at 6 volts. I believe this was close to the limit. I can run a .2 ohm atty at 4.2 volts (standard battery output on the mech). I don't know how to do the math, but that's a heck of a lot of power being unleashed at once. And not a thing to protect you if you have a faulty battery and/or a device that doesn't have ventilation. Tiny little hole on the bottom of the Provari? Safety feature. little channels in the bottom threads on my stingray? safety feature. Make sure it has it.

Two fully mechanical MODs with side buttons that I can think if off the top if my head are the Roller by Atmizoo (no clone available) and the 69 by Atmomixani (Hcigar makes a very good clone of it). Now that I think in it, the Roller has cousins, the Dingo and at least one other. All have side buttons and are full mechs.

The Roller has very little voltage drop. It's also €125 on the bottom end before shipping.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bsoplinger]

69 is top side button or bottom side button.
You can reconfigure to suit your tastes.
That's why they call it the "69".

I've only ever seen one 69 clone. The owner looked at me like I had 2 heads when I asked if he could configure for bottom instead of top so I've assumed that the clone couldn't be reconfigured. But then again, the person with that mod isn't the sharpest tack in the box. Now I know better.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[zandersig]

Yeah, I've studied up... I can build micro coils, regular coils, check ohms, etc. I have quite a few devices that are eGo threaded like the mini Protank II, EVODS and EVODS 2 plus I have a Kayfun Lite Plus revision 2 (original). I want to run something with a tank on a mech mod. I do have some drippers/attys like the ERA v1 with the holes drilled out and I also have the AGA-S, IGO-F and a IGO-W but I'm not really into drippers that much do that's why I wanted to get one with a 510 connection and a eGo connection. I bought a PH22 mod from fasttech.com for like 18 dollars and it has dual connections but I can't lower the center pin and it sucks I made a .8 ohm coil for my mini Protank II then tried to screw it on the PH22 and it won't fit! I'm sending this thing back (https://www.fasttech.com/products/1589900) if it doesn't cost me too much in shipping. They also have a ton of Genesis mods (https://www.fasttech.com/search?Genesis Mod). So I'm not sure what to get?

How about the Magneto?

If y'all could post some links to some mods and maybe a tank or 2 that I can easily build a coil for it that would be awesome! Maybe I should just stick with a 510 connection, I know fasttech.com has a ton of them and some have some pretty cool designs on them....

I will search for the ones that y'all have suggested but money is super super tight right now. :-(

Thanks for everything guys!

 

[zandersig]

I would like too get one of these but omg they are freaking expensive!

https://www.google.com/search?q=Vic...&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official

 

[zandersig]

This is insane! $120 bucks! Doc Dave Titanium Steam Turbine Rebuildable Atomizer RBA | Skyline Vapor

 

[zandersig]

I think this one has eGo and 510 (http://www.vaporbeast.com/tesla-m2-mod.html)? I just don't really want one that looks a lot like a dildo, ya know? LOL