Ijoy Capo 100W fluctuating power

[Mrmik]

Hello!
I got my Ijoy Capo 100W mod (not the squonker version) some time ago and I like it very much because of the size and display. Use it in Wv mode with a smok Baby tank (M2 coil, .25 ohm) set at 49W. On other mods I read around 3.5V for 40W. This one fluctuates up and down as much as 4.5V down to 2.7V. Power mode is set to normal which should be level in the duration of the puff and I even upgraded to the latest firmware but it still behaves the same. I use it with the Ijoy 3750mah 40A battery which was supplied with the purchase.
Not sure what I should make out of this since it will burn (and gives a burnt taste) the coil when going above 4V.
40W and 4.5V for a .25 ohm coil does not make sense!
I also switched to other coils including a .15 ohm with the same result.
Defective PCB? Unlikely bad battery?
Anyone knows what the issue is?
Thanks,

 

[Shawn Hoefer]

Flaky connection in the 510 causing the resistance to float.

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk

 

[Mrmik]

Flaky connection in the 510 causing the resistance to float.

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk

Yeah, that is logically per ohms law. Just looked at the resistance reading while holding down fire button for a few seconds and it is stable and not floating.
Just now noticed this..... by pressing fire button momentarily in intervals of 2 seconds or so I see that the Voltage reading fluctuates while resistance (.28 ohm) and amperage (12A) are stable.

 

[Shawn Hoefer]

Yeah, that is logically per ohms law. Just looked at the resistance reading while holding down fire button for a few seconds and it is stable and not floating.
Just now noticed this..... by pressing fire button momentarily in intervals of 2 seconds or so I see that the Voltage reading fluctuates while resistance (.28 ohm) and amperage (12A) are stable.

Then it's likely the board or the battery... Sorry...

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk

 

[ThermoNuker]

It's probably the power curve (pre-heat) settings of your device. Power curve of most of the newer chipsets nowadays can be customized. The need is mainly due to coil innovation -- heavy wires, combination of wires formed into an exotic form, etc..

We need our mod to deliver a high power punch, say, 90w for 200 milliseconds, to deliver that pre-heat power. It then drops to whatever power setting you set it to.

The voltage swing you see is probably that pre-heat function.

You can download the software from www.iJoycig.com for your device. Try it and please do tell what you find.

 

[Mrmik]

It's probably the power curve (pre-heat) settings of your device. Power curve of most of the newer chipsets nowadays can be customized. The need is mainly due to coil innovation -- heavy wires, combination of wires formed into an exotic form, etc..

We need our mod to deliver a high power punch, say, 90w for 200 milliseconds, to deliver that pre-heat power. It then drops to whatever power setting you set it to.

The voltage swing you see is probably that pre-heat function.

You can download the software from www.iJoycig.com for your device. Try it and please do tell what you find.

Ah..... I forgot about the custom setting for the power curve. Will look into it later and be back. Thanks! By the way, I already switched to "soft" mode which would degrade power at end of puff.

Makes sense it delivers a power punch but in the end of the puff, it should show the Voltage I set it to, not higher.

Oh yeah, already upgraded the firmware but it still do thermonuke....... LOL

As @Shawn Hoefer said, it might be the board but the battery???

 

[ThermoNuker]

Oh crappy iJoy... I guess no more iJoy for me.

I suspect the board. I would return it and get another brand. Mods with Gene chips are out at reasonable prices. Smok and Joye have theirs also fully customizable, and very affordable. Not to forget the DNA family, the gem of them all.

Oh well... I guess we're out of luck.

 

[mimöschen]

Ah come on. There's always the chance for a defective board, connection, whatever in mass produced items.
The same can and did happen to DNA, Yihi or Gene devices.

 

[Tobe]

This might help people having issues with the capo 100 with drop in power and inconsistent Voltage and amp delivery, I've stripped down a couple of them and the issue will probably be the contact between the threaded ring that the top cap screws onto and main negative copper plate it connects to, the silver ring is a separate piece of metal and is just bent or crimped against the copper plate that goes to the 510 and negative to the board, unless the cap is done up extremely tight it won't get a good enough contact to get a good load of power. To fix this I've soldered the 2 pieces together, its difficult to solder to the aluminium so flux and some scrapping back will be needed for it to take. but its a very easy job, just taking the 4 screws and top plate off will allow it to be pulled up enough to do it. both I've done are now much better and can use the whole capacity of the battery whereas before after the top battery bar dissapeared they were near useless. hope this helps