I'm lost in the woods, just bought a LV Triade.

[Skeebo]

I put two SS 316 coils in a dripper and I'll be honest... I am lost and can't find my way back home. It vapes okay, but I am not sure I am doing this right. I wrapped 24 gauge SS and it comes in at around .13 ohms. I have it set at 480 F and about 48 watts. I've been a Kanthal user all my life (5 years) and feel like an idiot.

Please help. Do I have it set right? I tried going on EScribe and unfortunately I have Chrome OS.

 

[flavourchaser]

With my setup I have 22Guage SS 8 wraps comes around .15ohms. I vape it around 420F 75watts. I try to keep it below 450F to avoid Formaldehyde.

 

[akiraceos]

I put two SS 316 coils in a dripper and I'll be honest... I am lost and can't find my way back home. It vapes okay, but I am not sure I am doing this right. I wrapped 24 gauge SS and it comes in at around .13 ohms. I have it set at 480 F and about 48 watts. I've been a Kanthal user all my life (5 years) and feel like an idiot.

Please help. Do I have it set right? I tried going on EScribe and unfortunately I have Chrome OS.

Hello, do not fret, temp-control just requires some patience and time to get it working right.

What is wrong with it? i'm assuming lack of vapor; with SS I noticed a longer time to ramp-up, u can reduce this by enabling pre-heat (which basically increases watts for about a second or less to reach the set temperature faster).

Another thing is, SS requires some tinkering with TCR (Temperature coefficient of resistance) curves; which basically tells the mod what temperature the coils are at based on resistance, but can be finicky due to the fact SS316 or any SS for the matter, has varying tolerances in iron etc that affects their resistance change which directly affects TC. So u may be set at 480F, but possibly real-life temperatures are less or way off. Since each mod manufacturer has their own default TCR.

I could help u further if I knew what mod you were using

Also, feel free to check out my youtube channel where I discuss about temp-control in detail Niche Vapes

Cheers

 

[bombastinator]

Is it the new tirade with the 250c chip? If so you can use replay which takes out all the complicated.
Getting it running though may take a bit more effort. You need the international version of the firmware on the device.

 

[RayofLight62]

Take note of what power, in non-TC mode, produces the vape you like most.

Then, when you switch to TC mode, set the power 25 - 30% higher then what you noted before.

Now, check if changing temperature setting functions as it should.

Notably, check the real time changes of resistance; you should verify there is a variation of four hundredths ohms from cold to hot (i.e., 0.15 ohm cold, 0.19 at max temp).

If the change is too dissimilar, you have a problem, either with the tank or the mod, mostly related to dirty / oxydised 510.

Please note some metal oxydations are transparent.

Once you can see the resistance variations, you can start to fine tune by locking the proper cold resistance, and experimenting with TCR coefficient.

I take one unknown out of the equation by using certified resistance wire.

Actually all industrial/hobby sensing wires comes with a datasheet with all the parameters, but not the stuff from China. The only certified wire I have seen in vape shops is the Dicodes NiFethal.

I really believe Evolv, as next step, should come up with an automagic AI routine, so the mod do all of the job instead of user, so everybody can use TC.

Good luck with TC....

 

[Skeebo]

I could help u further if I knew what mod you were using

Thanks so much for the response, it is the Triade 250C. You are correct in your assumption regarding my experience thus far. I am experiencing one good vape, then lack of vapor on the next draw, and flavor seems just okay. I can't remember, but then the mod was saying something to the effect, "heat protection", or was it "fire protection". I can't remember....

Is it the new tirade with the 250c chip? If so you can use replay which takes out all the complicated.
Getting it running though may take a bit more effort. You need the international version of the firmware on the device.

Thanks so much! I am going to go on EScribe this weekend when I have more time using my wife's work computer. Is the international version there? If so I was wondering if you could provide a link so I choose the correct one. I saw a lot of options when I checked it out last night. I used replay some last night but the results were underwhelming. This is my first time using SS 316 so I think my build may have been a bit shabby. I only did 5 wraps around a 2.5mm bit using 24 gauge. I think I might need to build something a little longer....

Take note of what power, in non-TC mode, produces the vape you like most.

Then, when you switch to TC mode, set the power 25 - 30% higher then what you noted before.

Now, check if changing temperature setting functions as it should.

Notably, check the real time changes of resistance; you should verify there is a variation of four hundredths ohms from cold to hot (i.e., 0.15 ohm cold, 0.19 at max temp).

If the change is too dissimilar, you have a problem, either with the tank or the mod, mostly related to dirty / oxydised 510.

Please note some metal oxydations are transparent.

Once you can see the resistance variations, you can start to fine tune by locking the proper cold resistance, and experimenting with TCR coefficient.

I take one unknown out of the equation by using certified resistance wire.

Actually all industrial/hobby sensing wires comes with a datasheet with all the parameters, but not the stuff from China. The only certified wire I have seen in vape shops is the Dicodes NiFethal.

I really believe Evolv, as next step, should come up with an automagic AI routine, so the mod do all of the job instead of user, so everybody can use TC.

Good luck with TC....

Thank you for responding!

I will try your advice regarding vaping it at the same watts as I do my Kanthal builds. Just a question, where does the temperature part come in at though? I never knew you still used watts when in TC until last night when I was fiddling with it.


The mod is amazing even with my Kanthal builds. It really delivers a better vape. I want to try the TC option though to see what it can really do.


I really appreciate the advice from you all. I am going to play with it some more after work today.

Thanks again!

 

[Skeebo]

Also, is SS 316 a good option for TC? Should I try a different kind of wire instead?

 

[Skeebo]

I just ordered some titanium wire, it should be here tomorrow.

 

[Letitia]

Also, is SS 316 a good option for TC? Should I try a different kind of wire instead?

I don't bother with tc on my replay mods. 24g ss needs a hard ramp, it's thick. If it were me I would leave the coil as is, set a hard ramp in wattage mode, play with watts until I found a sweet spot and puff until the perfect one is found. Hit save puff and vape away.

 

[akiraceos]

Thanks so much for the response, it is the Triade 250C. You are correct in your assumption regarding my experience thus far. I am experiencing one good vape, then lack of vapor on the next draw, and flavor seems just okay. I can't remember, but then the mod was saying something to the effect, "heat protection", or was it "fire protection". I can't remember....

Hmm, that sounds like a TCR issue. If u do get your hands on escribe, can try looking around for a SS316 TCR curve, someone here should have it
Temperature protected means that the coils have hit the temperature u set. Make sure your material is set to 'SS316 or SS316L', both are pretty similar in TCR values.

But honestly, i'd just recommend u using Replay mode, it saves so much time and hassle! Till today i'm still surprised at how well it works. To get a good replay vape,
Set it to 'replay', set your preferred watts. i'd suggest around 60W or higher for dual coils. Then take a puff normally, if you like it, click save puff. If not, keep on vaping until u get the 'heat' u like. How this works is that the each time u take a puff consecutively, coil temperature rises higher and higher, some people like a hotter vape so probably would save a puff 3-4 puffs in. U can also play around with the watts, though i wouldn't go above 100 watts for your setup just because of the heat SS gives.

I just ordered some titanium wire, it should be here tomorrow.

Regarding Ti, i'm glad you are trying it out! But keep in mind that Ti is unlike Kanthal or SS. You should never glow your Ti coils bright red or else it will oxidize into a harmful substance (Titanium dioxide). Also, you would need even more time and patience to set it up if you're making contact coils (not spaced). I would highly recommend u to watch my tutorial video on setting up Ti coils before attempting to set it up (sub 5 min video, shouldn't take u long )

Feel free to ask anymore questions regarding your mod, SS or Ti. I'll be glad to help wherever I can!

 

[bombastinator]

I got the link from maybe @untar ? I’ve long since lost it I’m afraid :/

 

[RayofLight62]

You can look at TC as a "brake" that stops the mod feeding full power to the coil, once the set temperature is achieved.

As a rule of thumb, set the temperature halfway initially; once the power setting is right, the TCR is properly chosen, the cold resistance is locked and (for Yihi mods only) the room temperature is set, you can verify that the temperature setting is... setting the temperature.

Again, enjoy TC vaping.

If cars were designed like a TC mod, we all drivers should have an intimate knowledge of the thermodynamics of the Otto thermal cycle of an engine, just to move the car.

EDIT: Regarding the wire, I use NiFethal. True, it is a bit expensive at twelve British pound for the roll, but you only need one in a long time.
The DNA75C I have, include the wire profile; best thing of all things, you set the TCR parameter at 320 - and you don't need to fiddle with it anymore. This is a very relevant step toward simplification.

Technically, the TCR settings (in a range from 50 to 1000) tells the mod how much it has to amplify the temperature change signal from the wire (lower the number, higher the gain).
320 is very high resistance variation, so the mod has to amplify less, therefore the regulation is more precise.

 

[untar]

www.dna200.de has the latest international escribe for all OS.

If you don't have escribe I guess you didn't upload any SS316 TFR curve to your device. In the past LV were known to ship their devices with a subpar TFR curve for SS316.

A better one, the one from Daniel "DJLSBvapes", can be found here
http://www.djlsbvapes.com/evolvdna/

There's also something to be said about how TC (kind of) works: a % resistance change is calculated based on your cold coil resistance. The lower your starting resistance is the smaller the change and the bigger the potential error.
SS316l works best above at least 0.2Ω (0.3Ω is better and above 0.5Ω near flawless).

For a material with a higher TCR (like titanum or circonium) the lower resistances (near 0.1Ω) aren't that bad.

 

[Skeebo]

I don't bother with tc on my replay mods. 24g ss needs a hard ramp, it's thick. If it were me I would leave the coil as is, set a hard ramp in wattage mode, play with watts until I found a sweet spot and puff until the perfect one is found. Hit save puff and vape away.

I was tempted....

 

[DaveP]

You didn't mention whether your coil is spaced or compressed. TC mode requires spaced coils to be able to read temperature (coil loops should not touch each other).

If you hit the fire button while looking at the display does it go almost immediately to "Temperature Protection"? If it does, then lower the wattage until it takes longer to give you that message. 40 watts may be too high for your coil in TC mode and it's faulting out due to reaching overtemp before you can take a hit.

If it doesn't say temperature protection then increase the wattage a little at a time until you start to produce good vapor. Dual coils are higher mass and may need higher wattage than 48 watts. They also may need higher pre-heat, as others have said.

Starting at 30W to 40W may be closer to your desired setting. Increase wattage a little at a time from there until TC mode gives you time to take a hit and produce vapor.

 

[Skeebo]

My coils are not spaced.

I had the IT guy scrambling at work yesterday. My expertise with Excel seems to be lacking and I sent the printer into maximum overload. I'm a little concerned about my potential with this device.......

 

[RayofLight62]

From a thermodynamical perspective, if you like the effect on the vape of a massive coil, it makes more sense to use thicker wire and space the coil while using some preheat or a power curve feature.
Some people make touching coils because they like the look of them; which is fine; just the physics of it, is not on their side, because of thermal and flow inefficiencies caused by the touching coils.
And, if you move to TC, it doesn't work properly...

 

[akiraceos]

My coils are not spaced.

I had the IT guy scrambling at work yesterday. My expertise with Excel seems to be lacking and I sent the printer into maximum overload. I'm a little concerned about my potential with this device.......

From a thermodynamical perspective, if you like the effect on the vape of a massive coil, it makes more sense to use thicker wire and space the coil while using some preheat or a power curve feature.
Some people make touching coils because they like the look of them; which is fine; just the physics of it, is not on their side, because of thermal and flow inefficiencies caused by the touching coils.
And, if you move to TC, it doesn't work properly...

Hello

That is another myth with TC coils, requiring them to be spaced to work properly. Spacing the wraps makes it easier to set up, since there is basically no other way electricity can travel except through the intended path. By contacting the coils, u introduce ways for electricity to 'short-circuit' through some wraps; hence the term hotspot. With any coil, spaced or contact, heat will be center-out assuming there's no hotspot on contact coils. The key is increasing the surface area of that 'heating' for a better 'vape' experience. Contact-coils will always introduce better flavor if set up right, in my opinion. Best of both worlds is to space the coils by a tiny bit, that way u wont get hotspots, but still optimal flavor

I'm by no means intending to offend anyone, but just sharing my experience, hoping to improve the vape experience if possible

Long story short, u can use contact coils with TC with the exception of Ni200 (pure nickel). Just remove the hotspots and you'll have a vape like no other. Or you could space them ever so slightly like this. (28/34 Ti Clapton on an Ammit MTL)

Cheers.

 

[Skeebo]

I am finally getting a chance to dive into the Triade.

If it were me I would leave the coil as is, set a hard ramp in wattage mode, play with watts until I found a sweet spot and puff until the perfect one is found. Hit save puff and vape away.

How you save puff on it? I don't see that option on mine.

 

[Letitia]

I am finally getting a chance to dive into the Triade.



How you save puff on it? I don't see that option on mine.

On my Therion 75c in wattage mode there is a blank bar under the wattage readout, when you want to save puff you click on that. On the Paranormal there is a replay screen that has the same blank bar that will flash save puff. I haven’t played much with the 75c yet or set up my profiles, probably why it looks different.