I'm moving into the world of mods, mech or VV/VW?

[IntoAFly]

I just posted this in the new members forum, I'm tired if every tank I get leaking and gurgling and wasting my juice. I want to start dripping with an RDA and possibly a mech mod. I know the flavor and vapor production is increased so that's another reason I'm looking into it. My question is how do I set up a mech mod safely? I know the calculations with resistance and battery output have to be right, but will I have to build according to my battery or get new batteries for my builds? As far as a VV/VW mod goes the safety features are built in which is nice but they seem more expensive. Any help would be great.

I know, noob questions but I figured I'd give it a shot.

 

[Caffeine7]

for a first mod you cant go wrong with an MVP2. for around $40 you get vv/vw and a battery that lasts days. you can drip but it has to be a higher ohm build, .9 or above. I recently got a clouper hana clone and with the higher watts it works great with a dripper. .6 and above seems to be working well, with a mech there is no safety so its better to learn on something with safeguards in place. also the most important thing if you go with a mech mod is BATTERY SAFETY!!!!. Read everything you can about what will be safe. look at Baditude's blogs, research everything. Another route to look into is a kayfun style tank. no leaks and great flavor on most vv/vw mods

 

[Shootist]

If every tank you get leaks and or gurgles then you are buying fake, supposedly Name Brand, tanks or cheap poorly made tanks. Or you are doing something very wrong. I have many tanks from Aspire ET's to their Nautilus line, both original and Mini, Kanger models and a few clone Kayfun Lite + V2's. None of them leak and they only gurgle when I have used them for a period of time and the juice vapor condensation collects in the drip tip or just below it. I just wipe it all out with a paper towel and the gurgling stops.

 

[shatteredsoul76]

What kind of tanks are you using to have so many issues? If you are using plastic tanks they can crack from certain juices. Im new to this as well and have a Kanger Aerotank, Aspire Nautilus and a few Kanger evod glass and havent had a single issue with any of them leaking. I personally like Kanger and the coil heads are really easy to re-build if you choose.

I have a Innokin VV V3 as well as a Sigelei 20w and like them both.

Happy Vaping!

 

[IntoAFly]

What kind of tanks are you using to have so many issues? If you are using plastic tanks they can crack from certain juices. Im new to this as well and have a Kanger Aerotank, Aspire Nautilus and a few Kanger evod glass and havent had a single issue with any of them leaking. I personally like Kanger and the coil heads are really easy to re-build if you choose.

I have a Innokin VV V3 as well as a Sigelei 20w and like them both.

Happy Vaping!

Right now I'm using a protank mini 3. It was great for the first couple of days and now since I've replaced the head its causing problems. I've also had problems with other clearos in the past. It was an exaggeration when I said EVERY tank lol. Maybe a good 75% of them.

 

[klynnn]

Your best bet is to start with a vv/vw mod and work up. Learn to build your own coils on those then start researching mechs and battery safety.

 

[bm2112]

If you want to rebuild coils on an RDA then I would definitely recommend a mech mod. VV/VW devices often have 15 watt limits, nicer ones have 30. Some of the box mods go all the way up to 100 watts and I wouldn't mind getting one. However, mech mods are extremely cheap and simple. Not to mention, they're pretty much indestructible.

Mech mech mech

The most important part of mech safety is the battery. Sony VTC4s and VTC5s are the best batteries on the market. They are very, very safe.

 

[Baditude]

It will be a little challenging to put everything together from what has been already said. All true facts. Research, research, and do more reserch until you decide what mod and RBA will best suit your vaping needs.

A regulated variable voltage mod like an MVP would probably be the most logical next step. It will be more customizable due to the variable voltage to adjust to your tastes and moods. It will most importantly have built-in protection circuitry to keep you out of harm's way should you make a mistake. Will include a built-in voltage and ohm meter, which comes in handy. Due to that protection circuitry and amp limits of the processor, it will not be able to do sub-ohm.

A mechanical mod is just a battery holder. No protection circuitry, no ohm or battery meter. The only way to adjust your vaping experience will be to change the entire coil out. The only advantage a mech has over a regulated mod is that they can fire a sub-ohm coil by bypassing protection circuitry. But having no protection circuitry means you have to know what you are doing, because a mistake or unexpected error can result in a vented battery or worse.

Rebuildable drip atomizers will be the easiest RBA to learn on. The build deck is right there. You can get the largest "clouds" with these. However, they only hold a little bit of juice, and you will need to bring a bottle of juice with you everywhere you go.

A Kayfun-style tank will be more convenient for out and about use. Juice capacity of 4 ml. Great flavor, just better than average vapor. Downside is you have to drain the tank to reach the coil and wick, but not reallly a huge deal. For some there is a learning curve.

I do not recommend a Genesis-style RBA as your first RBA. More complex as you are fighting gravity, more difficult wick preparation, they leak if not kept upright, and you have to tilt the tank to get it to wick properly. Highest learning curve.

Inexpensive Mech Mod/RDA Setup

Ohms Law for Dummies

Battery Basics for Mods

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries

Information Resources for Your First RBA

 

[v1k1ng1001]

Why not both?

If your delivery system is bothering you, pick up a kayfun lite + clone and an RDA of your choice. You can get 100ft of wire for $7 or so and a bag of organic cotton for $3.

You can pick up a very nice mech clone and cut your teeth for around $20. I recommend something like a stainless steel stingray clone as the floating center pin keeps things simple when you're learning. My favorite so far is the gnome clone at fasttech but there are lots of choices. Stainless steel is durable and requires less maintenance in the beginning.

Next, if you want to go vv, I would seriously consider the ipv 50w box mod to power that rda. An mvp, vamo or whatever isn't going to cut it once you get some experience. The ipvs are expensive but worth it if you consider what you're getting.

As others have mentioned, sony vct# batteries are worthy investments.

 

[IntoAFly]

I understand ohms law and how to keep it safe now that I've kinda researched it. I definitely won't go sub ohm until I have a few builds under my belt and everything comes out perfect. I feel like eventually I will go into mech mods so I want to learn about them now and I feel like maybe I should go ahead and get one with a nice battery. I need to do more research as of now but I am growing very tired of tanks and I know I want to start building coils and get a ohmeter and do it all right. The one thing about a electric mod is the safety features which is a great peace of mind.

 

[IntoAFly]

Why not both?

If your delivery system is bothering you, pick up a kayfun lite + clone and an RDA of your choice. You can get 100ft of wire for $7 or so and a bag of organic cotton for $3.

You can pick up a very nice mech clone and cut your teeth for around $20. I recommend something like a stainless steel stingray clone as the floating center pin keeps things simple when you're learning. My favorite so far is the gnome clone at fasttech but there are lots of choices. Stainless steel is durable and requires less maintenance in the beginning.

Next, if you want to go vv, I would seriously consider the ipv 50w box mod to power that rda. An mvp, vamo or whatever isn't going to cut it once you get some experience. The ipvs are expensive but worth it if you consider what you're getting.

As others have mentioned, sony vct# batteries are worthy investments.

We're kinda on the same thought process, I don't want to spend $40 on an mvp then a month later want to get a mech mod. I feel like if I learn how a mech mod works and how to safely build coils then I may go ahead and pull the trigger on one with a nice battery

 

[Str8vision]

Rebuildable atomizers are THE way to go if you don't mind building coils. They are VASTLY less expensive to operate and provide superior vapor production. Nothing beats a dripping atomizer for flavor although I rarely use any of mine but opt for my Kayfun instead as a matter of convenience. I do have my eye on the new Magma RDA, really like its design. I use a S.S. Astro mech. mod most of the time and Panasonic NCR1860PF batteries. I build my coils at .8 ohms and wick with rayon cellucotton. If $$$ is an issue, you can get a good quality S.S. mod and a S.S. RDA from Fasttech for under $30 and free shipping. It's where I buy most of my equipment these days. I only buy S.S. mods and attys because brass, aluminum, bronze and copper are too soft/malleable, threaded parts will wear out too fast.

 

[IntoAFly]

Rebuildable atomizers are THE way to go if you don't mind building coils. They are VASTLY less expensive to operate and provide superior vapor production. Nothing beats a dripping atomizer for flavor although I rarely use any of mine but opt for my Kayfun instead as a matter of convenience. I do have my eye on the new Magma RDA, really like its design. I use a S.S. Astro mech. mod most of the time and Panasonic NCR1860PF batteries. I build my coils at .8 ohms and wick with rayon cellucotton. If $$$ is an issue, you can get a good quality S.S. mod and a S.S. RDA from Fasttech for under $30 and free shipping. It's where I buy most of my equipment these days. I only buy S.S. mods and attys because brass, aluminum, bronze and copper are too soft/malleable, threaded parts will wear out too fast.

Thanks! I Want to start rebuilding as I hear it's the way to go and you get the best "bang for your buck" . I'd like a RDA for the house and a nice rebuildable tank or something for on the go.

 

[SaintDynamicz]

Right now I'm using a protank mini 3. It was great for the first couple of days and now since I've replaced the head its causing problems. I've also had problems with other clearos in the past. It was an exaggeration when I said EVERY tank lol. Maybe a good 75% of them.

Man I've had a Nautilus, Nautilus mini, Aerotank mini, mega, and giant, Protank 2 and 3, IClear 30, and 30s and I've never come into a giggling or leaking circumstance that wasn't my own fault. It might be possible that you are simply not doing something correctly to cause the giggling and leaking in 75% of your tanks.

 

[bluecat]

I would purchase a mech device that can handle a kick. You can go regulated if you want buy inserting the kick module or not. Just make sure the mech will accept the kick.

The nice thing if you do not go over 10 watts is that evolve is selling the V1 at 20 bucks directly. Basically that is 5 bucks over a clone sans the fastechs of the world. At 5 bucks over clone price it is worth it to get the evolve kick. I have to admit after 2+ years I am slightly noticing the difference in vape from the evolve kick vs a clone kick. It is subtle yet there if one looks.

 

[IntoAFly]

Man I've had a Nautilus, Nautilus mini, Aerotank mini, mega, and giant, Protank 2 and 3, IClear 30, and 30s and I've never come into a giggling or leaking circumstance that wasn't my own fault. It might be possible that you are simply not doing something correctly to cause the giggling and leaking in 75% of your tanks.

Ha..giggling. Anyway I may be tightening the head too tight causing the rubber washer to kind of warp breaking the seal and letting in liquid.

I popped in a new head so let's hope for the best.

 

[IntoAFly]

I would purchase a mech device that can handle a kick. You can go regulated if you want buy inserting the kick module or not. Just make sure the mech will accept the kick.

The nice thing if you do not go over 10 watts is that evolve is selling the V1 at 20 bucks directly. Basically that is 5 bucks over a clone sans the fastechs of the world. At 5 bucks over clone price it is worth it to get the evolve kick. I have to admit after 2+ years I am slightly noticing the difference in vape from the evolve kick vs a clone kick. It is subtle yet there if one looks.

A kick is basically a way to regulate a mech mod right? So I can get a mech mod, a kick, and if I wanted to go full mechanical I can take the kick out?

 

[searcher]

A kick is basically a way to regulate a mech mod right? So I can get a mech mod, a kick, and if I wanted to go full mechanical I can take the kick out?

That's what I use. I have 4 Vamo's but I only use my M16 Sentinal's with a VW Kick. Basically because I like the size of it with an 18350 battery.

 

[IntoAFly]

That's what I use. I have 4 Vamo's but I only use my M16 Sentinal's with a VW Kick. Basically because I like the size of it with an 18350 battery.

This sounds more of my speed. A mech mod with a kick, that way I have both options. Thanks!

 

[Str8vision]

Thanks! I Want to start rebuilding as I hear it's the way to go and you get the best "bang for your buck" . I'd like a RDA for the house and a nice rebuildable tank or something for on the go.

I only vape flavored NETs (Naturally Extracted Tobaccos), and they are notorious for clogging wicks and gunking coils. A 100' reel of Kanthal wire costs around $7 and will produce about 300 coils. A three pound box of rayon cellucotton costs $17 and will make thousands of wicks. For optimum flavor I re-wick every day and replace coils about every five days but it only costs around $7 a year in materials to do so. That's what I call the best bang for your buck.

If you decide to go with VV/VW I wouldn't use a kick module as they can't handle sufficient wattage and are limited to higher ohm coil configurations providing pretty much the same vaping experience you currently have. If I wanted a regulated VV/VW mod I'd look at the new 30 and 50 watt mods that can handle a much wider range of coil resistances. I'm a flavor junkie, not a cloud chaser and find that, for me, .8 - .9 ohm coils are ideal at around 20 watts for the NETs I vape.