Inside the Drunker Tank

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adeline

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Thanks to whoever suggested Sure Vapes for Drunker supplies. I ordered a few extra attys because I want the ceramic cups - just in case. Also ordered the bottom silicon plug. Package arrived today. Well packaged and super fast shipping. Prices were ok too. So Thank You! for the Sure Vapes Info.

I just lost the tiniest piece to a different rba. I had to contact the vendor because they didn't sell them. Thankfully they had one laying around to send to me...

Moral of the story is ... it's nice to have replacement parts available! I know I will be able to repair my Drunker for the usual issues. If I lose a piece, like I just did with the other rba, I can replace it. And if I can't... the Drunker itself is cheap enough to replace.

But the cups and the grommets being readily available is brilliant! I stocked up, just in case I can't find them again so easily. Never hurts to be prepared!!
 

adeline

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FYI to those of us with leaky Drunkers;

The silicone o-rings used in the drunker are inferior to the black rubber ones used in DCT's, the good news is that they are the same size and the DCT o-rings are far superior. No more leaking from my Drunkers.

Huh, so the o-ring that goes along the top cap is replaceable too?!?!

Lovely. Thank you for finding this!

Personally, I love the way the threads are set up to screw inside the tank on the center post tube instead of having threads on the tank tube itself. Makes for great placement of the o-ring, and I for one haven't had any leaking issues.
 

xMackx

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I have had no leak isues at all with my drunker. I'm actually boring the wick holes to make it a little leaky for better coil saturation. I'll rebuild it later today and let ya know how it goes. I think what type of wick you use has a lot to do with how leak proof the wick holes/slots are in atties (unless it's an o-ring problem). When I was using cheese cloth I had leak issues with all my atties, now using the rounds I haven't had one leak problem even in my VN's.
 

adeline

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So you want to dry burn your Drunker coil, but you wick with cotton? Dilemma...

Chances are, if you need to dry burn your coil, you probably need to change your wick. If you WANT to dry burn your coil, you're going to need to remove your wick if it's cotton.

Here's how I do it!

Starting out with your Drunker... This is a shot of mine, since I have a wick assist running OVER the coil. A standard wick setup will have both wicks running through it.
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If you have the standard wick setup, skip this step.
But it's an easy one.. Remove the wick assist. ;)
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Trim your cotton wick at one side.
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GENTLY twist your cotton out of the wick. Be careful, this could seriously warp your coil. This is why it's VERY important that your wick isn't too thick for the coil, outside of the normal choking/burning reasons. This leaves you with no wick left.
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TEST YOUR OHMS before you do anything else. Make sure you didn't cause a short or otherwise hurt your coil setup.
Dry burn as you normally do. I like to burn, rinse, burn.
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Feed your new wick through the coil and pull through with tweezers. I like going with the wick assist, since you only have to feed one wick through the coil at this stage. :)
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Now insert your wick assist over the coil, or however you'd like.
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Re-attach to your tank, top off with your favorite juice, and let her soak!


Coming soon to a photo-tutorial near you:
NR Legs with crimping beads!!
 

donnah

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My biggest problem with ss wicks is juice runback. I can't make it through a whole tank without having to syringe out the bottom part and tossing it because it's cooked dark and strong. There isn't any gunk or anything, it's just dark.

I have one mix that is steeped and dark to start with. I don't get as much flavor change on it, but my two main mixes are mixed strong to start with and they won't abide much cooking.

I've read some posts where folks recommend 500 mesh rolled solid to help with that issue. I haven't tried that as I only have the 400 that came with my duds. What I have tried is wrapping a couple of wraps of cheese cloth around the ss, letting it extend below the ss, and pluging the center hole with cotton. That did help, but not enough to suit me.

With the drunker, I can run a whole tank full through with no, or very little, change in flavor. Plus, as Donnah points out in one of her threads, the flavor is just as good.

I didn't really pay much attention to what you were talking about until now. I've noticed this also. I was freaking out thinking something was wrong with my juice! I kept topping my vulcan off and adding more. I noticed the other day when I syringed it all out of the tank and rinsed the tank (by sryinging in and out water) and refilled the juice, the flavor was back. I just did it again and can really taste the difference. I guess I'm going to have to rinse my tanks more often. Right now I only have 400 mesh but as soon as steammonkey gets the 500 back in stock I'll get some. I really love my drunker but I also really love my mesh rba's .. I've got a DID coming tomorrow! I'm not going to give them up because the vape (on a clean tank of juice) is soo exquisite. If you figure something out, let me know and I'll do the same.
 

JD1

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.... Right now I only have 400 mesh but as soon as steammonkey gets the 500 back in stock I'll get some. I really love my drunker but I also really love my mesh rba's .. I've got a DID coming tomorrow! I'm not going to give them up because the vape (on a clean tank of juice) is soo exquisite. If you figure something out, let me know and I'll do the same.

500 mesh rolled solid is supposed to reduce some of the run back problems, according to some posts I've read. You're sill going to get quite a bit of heat transfer from the base plate and wick. I have the metal tank which doesn't help either lol.

Keep us posted on did vs dud. I think it's supposed to be a little bigger and better. Again, that's according to some posts I've read.
 

adeline

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Do you wrap your coils on a drill bit or similar?

If so, what size?

I don't think I own a drill bit.. heh. I should though!!

Usually I just wrap around my wick with a stick pin or 2 to give it some support. I've dabbled around with using a screw (I think one of my other RBAs is currently sporting a screw-wrapped coil). And I just discovered the teeny tiny screwdriver that came with my A8 makes the perfect size coil. I'll be using that more often.

These coils look messy. :facepalm: I did straighten them up after the photo shoot I swear!!

But really everyone who looks at my coils boggles. I just have steady hands and a bit of practice I guess.
 

JD1

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..........Here's how I do it! ...............


Now insert your wick assist over the coil, or however you'd like.
CzNmGIl.jpg



Re-attach to your tank, top off with your favorite juice, and let her soak! ..................

Great pictures, Adeline, thanks for posting. I really like the size of your wicks as they allow for surface wicking through the feed holes.

Here's one more tip that's worth trying when you clean. Snip your wick close to the coil and pull it out and snip off the gunky part. Dry burn the coil by pulsing it a few times, slide in another short wick and trim it about 1/4 in. each side of the ceramic. Run the ends of your cut wick up against these ends, then place the helper wick back on top. Saturate with juice and lay aside a couple of hours before vaping. The next time you clean, you just slide the short wick out, pulse the coil a few times, and replace the short wick. You can't do any rinsing and if that becomes necessary, you might have to remove the wicks every once in while.

I should add that I'm not sure if this wicks as fast as a solid wick or not. I take long, slow puffs that allow for maximum wicking time and I can't tell any difference but differences might show up with short, quick draws.
 

JD1

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Do you wrap your coils on a drill bit or similar?

If so, what size?

Imo, the best way to determine size is to try dropping the nail/drill bit/whatever down the slots of the ceramic. It should all but drop in with just the widest part preventing it from doing so. This allows the wick to fan slightly from the slots and still fit the coil.
 

StaircaseWit

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Imo, the best way to determine size is to try dropping the nail/drill bit/whatever down the slots of the ceramic. It should all but drop in with just the widest part preventing it from doing so. This allows the wick to fan slightly from the slots and still fit the coil.

I'm actually running it in an AGA-T2. I just love this thread for cotton wicking setup knowledge (along with Adeline's excellent pics), so I had to ask about coil size.
 

BikerBob

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I don't think I own a drill bit.. heh. I should though!!

I have quite a collection of 'drill bit or similar' that I've tried winding coils with:

-All sorts of drill bits (fractional, metric, numbered)
-Several sizes of sticks from Q-tips (plastic, paper, wood)
-Yarn needle (Walmart, near the yarn, good for mending sweaters too)
-6-inch length of broken car antenna (I had previously sharpened one end to use as a pick)
-5 different size pen refills
-round toothpicks
-several lengths of wire (14g, 12g) like used to wire outlets and switches
-wire coat hanger
-several bolts/screws of varying sizes
-plugs for headphones (mp3 player, cell phone)
-small screwdriver shafts (Philips or 'plus' tips work well) like your A8 has
-coffee stirrer
-pins that hold a watch on its band

Each of these will give me a slightly different size (and different ohms) for a coil. I've been using the yarn needle recently, for coiling on my SS wicks. You never know what works best until you try it.
 
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