• Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers

    Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?

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Intro To The "3DFS ALPHA" By: Digitalciggz.com

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mwa102464

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Hey Sentinel isn't it obvious by now your not gonna find out one thing about how this particular PV is going to work until the day it's released, might as well stop asking don't ya think. Also the mod forum would be a great place for you to educate yourself on these types of question buddy, there really good over there you can learn a lot, even how to make a mod, ya that's what they call those Mods, I think this is gonna be a bit more Epic than just a mod over here.!
 

jimho

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Both.
Altering the resistance will change both voltage and power, as they are directly related to one another.
You can't change one without changing the other.

technically you're correct, but I think what he is asking a different question - and there is a suble difference between regulating voltage vs regulating power...
If you actively control voltage, then whatever the resitance is (as it varies by small amounts as the wire heats), the voltage will remain constant. If you actively control wattage, as the resistance varies, the device will compensate for the change by changing the voltage ... In practice, if you managed by power (wattage) you could set the device for 9 Watts, and regardless of the atty you used, the device would adjust itself to supply the proper voltage to deliver 9 Watts (either by measuring the resistance or monitoring the current).....

Interesting idea, and it has merits although I'm not convinced that in practice, its a big deal as some have made it out to be on other threads ....
 

jimho

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Hey Sentinel isn't it obvious by now your not gonna find out one thing about how this particular PV is going to work until the day it's released, might as well stop asking don't ya think. Also the mod forum would be a great place for you to educate yourself on these types of question buddy, there really good over there you can learn a lot, even how to make a mod, ya that's what they call those Mods, I think this is gonna be a bit more Epic than just a mod over here.!

that's a bit harsh- it was a fair question ..
 
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Shad0w

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Trapped by Schrödinger's cat....
I will say this ONCE so there is no misunderstanding:

1. I will divulge information as I am able. Not one second before.
2. You are welcome to participate as long as you are able to do so in a friendly and not pushy manner.
3. Attacks and insults against other members in this thread will be reported to administrative staff and will NOT be tolerated.

I hope this was clear enough.

This is not a MOD.
It is a purpose built device, not a modification of something pre-existing. It is 100% my design from the ground up.
I did not say anything when you were spamming another vendor product here because you are new, but it was in bad taste.
You are asking questions that have to some degree been answered throughout the thread. Take the time to read through it.
Others have been here since the beginning and have been kind and patient because they know that when I can talk about things, I will. Please do not belittle their patience.

Hopefully now we can get back on track here and get along.

Thank You.
 
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Shad0w

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Trapped by Schrödinger's cat....
technically you're correct, but I think what he is asking a different question - and there is a suble difference between regulating voltage vs regulating power...
If you actively control voltage, then whatever the resitance is (as it varies by small amounts as the wire heats), the voltage will remain constant. If you actively control wattage, as the resistance varies, the device will compensate for the change by changing the voltage ... In practice, if you managed by power (wattage) you could set the device for 9 Watts, and regardless of the atty you used, the device would adjust itself to supply the proper voltage to deliver 9 Watts (either by measuring the resistance or monitoring the current).....

Interesting idea, and it has merits although I'm not convinced that in practice, its a big deal as some have made it out to be on other threads ....

We are using Voltage to make our adjustments, but are also monitoring current and resistance continuously.
As you and I have both mentioned, they (Controlling Volts vs Controlling Watts) are two different (slightly) methods of attaining the same end result.
It could easily be done as current (Amperes) control instead of the other two. It is all in essence the same. Just a matter of builders' choice.

I suppose what I am saying is that arguing which is better is almost a pointless argument, as they all work in unison to achieve the desired end result. :)
 
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LowThudd

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I am a GUY from L.A. not girl. lol
We are using Voltage to make our adjustments, but are also monitoring current and resistance continuously.
As you and I have both mentioned, they (Volts vs Watts) are two different (slightly) methods of attaining the same end result.
It could easily be done as current (Amperes) control instead of the other two. It is all in essence the same. Just a matter of builders' choice.

I suppose what I am saying is that arguing which is better is almost a pointless argument, as they all work in unison to achieve the desired end result. :)

You got me thinking. What about a variable resistor and a very low ohm coil wire, heavy gage. Might be a neat way of making an atty last longer to be able to control the resistence and the voltage. That would take quite some tinkering to get right. To be dummy proof, it would have to be micro processor controlled and reged. Neat idea though.
 
Too bad shadowlife.... IMO variable wattage looks like a very interesting way to go with this new "epic" mod. BTW, variable voltage and variable wattage are NOT the same! you may want to put a little time into understanding this concept as you are a mod builder. Maybe MWA102464 can help you out. He has a vast amount of knowledge on "epic" mods. He told me so.
 

RippleInStillWater

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Sighhh..........SS, just read the thread, it may take a while but all of the info you asked has been covered a half-dozen times here, if you did you know shadow ain't gonna say squat before its time!!!:laugh:

I read my first month on here so I could understand without appearing pushy or uniformed, no offense. mwa was just trying to help (like he always does) and the sarcasm is unnecessary IMO -- and have you seen mwa's collection?!?!?!?:lol::lol::lol::lol:
 

Shad0w

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Trapped by Schrödinger's cat....
Too bad shadowlife.... IMO variable wattage looks like a very interesting way to go with this new "epic" mod. BTW, variable voltage and variable wattage are NOT the same! you may want to put a little time into understanding this concept as you are a mod builder. Maybe MWA102464 can help you out. He has a vast amount of knowledge on "epic" mods. He told me so.

Sorry that my explanation of rudeness not being acceptable here did not make sense to you.
I do not understand your hostility toward me or others here, but I hope you feel better soon my friend.

Take care.
 

mwa102464

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I guess I'm not clear on something here Shad0w maybe you can help me out buddy and let me know your thoughts, but if you had a dial on two separate personal vaporizing units and, one controlled Volts and one controlled Watts, using the same lets say for kicks and giggles 2 ohm Atty, you took the dial on the VV and set it at 4V you would end up at 8 watts, (right) you then took the unit with the variable wattage and turned the dial to 8w, would you not end up at 4V and both PV's would be running the same darn way ? I'm no rocket scientist but isn't it all the same numbers just a different way to control the unit, all the power ends up being at the same numbers, no matter what you use to control the unit volts or watts it's all the same in the end:facepalm:. (please correct me if I'm wrong)

To me it seems the big difference is where all the current is flowing these days, how smart is the brain child of whats controlling the unit, the smarter the brain is that works the unit the better the unit performs. Ohms,volts,watts will always be a constant running through the unit, whats controlling them is whats most important. With some of these newer smart chips people are building today technology keeps moving forward and improving vastly in the computer, communication's, and technology industry all together, this is where the all mechanical PV will always be kept for a back up to vape from because it really cant break down, however if you want one of these newer PV's that seem to be coming about these days full of technology (smart Options I will call them) and your gonna want a smarter Personal Vaporizing unit all together, this is where Gentleman like Shad0w come into play, this is why I'm sticking with shad0w and what he is doing, as he stated he is building something new from the ground up, not modification of what someone else has already done, this is the most fascinating part of this whole thread to me and what Shad0w is doing here. Maybe I'm hearing something differently but Ground UP Something Brand New to Vape from not just another Mod, sounds very interesting and epic to me.!!!:)
 
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basilray

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harpo

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jimho

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Do you need help paying your basement apt. Rent or will your mom let you stay rent free till your epic mod comes out?

You know you asked an interesting question that has unfortunately gone undiscussed and unanswered because rather than taking the time to articulate it properly you've chosen to hurl insults at the very person that would need to answer. Either you have no clue what you asked or you didn't bother reading the agreement you entered into when you joined this forum - or both - and either way I'm looking forward to seeing your account status changed to "moved on" .... sorry I backed you up there....
 

NebulaBrot

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Too bad shadowlife.... IMO variable wattage looks like a very interesting way to go with this new "epic" mod. BTW, variable voltage and variable wattage are NOT the same! you may want to put a little time into understanding this concept as you are a mod builder. Maybe MWA102464 can help you out. He has a vast amount of knowledge on "epic" mods. He told me so.

SS, I am torn between trying to offer you a slightly different perspective to consider and (after your subsequent posts) voting to have you banned.

On the side of the former, I have been researching, studying, using and learning about vaping mods since April. I am an avid, and fairly competent, researcher. While electronics are NOT my forte, I try (at least) to read, listen and learn before speaking (typing). I have been actively experimenting with "dumb" mods reaching for the "sweet spot" or "my happy place" using watts formula, various voltages, regulated and resisted mods. Then I ventured into VV mods and experimented further - looking to tweak the voltages to compensate for the varying "personalities" and slight ohms fluctuations of various attys and various models of attys. I then went into experimenting with different batteries trying to learn about amps (still really have no clue on this) and came to the "dumb" (I say "dumb" because my only verifiable proof is in the vape and not from amp knowledge) conclusion that the AW IMR 16340 stacked gives me a much better hit in a non-boosted VV device. I have read this is so because of the chemistry and amp draw of the IMR battery.

What does all this mean? It means that I try to know what I do not know and am willing to admit that I do not know.

Like you, and most of the people following this thread, I read and follow other threads and other "smart" devices. Yes, we are ALL aware there are other device makers taking different approaches. I am very enthusiastic to watch, listen, learn and try a variety of smart devices, and their different approaches, because I DO NOT KNOW. Mercedes, BMW and Porsche all make very different cars and each appeals to different driving enthusiasts (with some enjoying all three).

So, to your point, it is my so far understanding that in a "dumb" mod: with the 4 variables of volts, amps, ohms and watts there will be fluctuations. The atty ohms may fluctuate from heat, juice, age, etc. Amps and volts may fluctuate from device wiring/design, charge level, battery chemistry, etc. As these fluctuate, watts are likely to fluctuate. It would be easy to "assume" (and many of us who are old enough to remember the TV show The Odd Couple know what we accomplish when we "assume") that setting for watts is the ONLY way to accomplish the consistent vape result. HOWEVER, I (for one) am willing to accept that "I do not know". I see that there are MANY people in this thread - and other threads - who DO KNOW. So, I am choosing to sit back, relax, enjoy a really good vape (on my "dumb" mod) of my favorite juices, appreciate the many blessings in life and wait-watch-read-listen-and-LEARN. I will decide what devices best serve my vaping pleasures as they are released.

I have purchased and sold many mods and plan to purchase and sell more (DEVICES). I fully appreciate and respect the device designers/builders/engineers need to play their hands close to the vest as we have seen so much childish behavior, disrespect and basic absence of integrity in some parts of the vaping device community by way to copying, etc. I also respect and appreciate that these newer "smart" devices may require engineering to the tune of applying technology in ways that it may not have previously been intended to be used when designed (example - I do not know of many devices that drain battery charge {for these size batteries} at the rate of vaping). So, I imagine there is much testing, tweaking, adjusting and finding ways to incorporate more features, make others more efficient, etc. before prematurely releasing informational details.

I can only hope you might see that by walking around an issue we can actually see it from a variety of perspectives. Now, with all of that said, your posts, attitude and continued spiteful and angry negativity leave be thinking that others suggesting you be banned may not such a bad idea. While some people do jump on the judgmental and critical bandwagon a bit too fast - here in ecf, for the most part, people are friendly and helpful and considerate. If you want to boxing - please go to a boxing gym.

Sorry gang - EOR :p
 

jimho

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@mwa and others not picking this up - regarding your example- the main point you're missing is that resistance changes with temperature- generally it increases- so if you set your voltage for 4V on a 2 ohm atty it starts out at 8 watts... but the longer you run it, the more the atty resistance increases... just to illustrate, suppose it goes up by 10%... the power will fade along with it... so after 5 seconds you might have 2.2 ohms and 7.27 Watts... suppose it goes up by another 10% after 10 seconds... 2.42 ohms @4V= 6Watts.... If you managed the device to a power set by the user, you'd increase the voltage (or maintain the current) as the resistance increases and keep it at 8 watts..

I used high numbers to illustrate - more likely 10% total would be on the high end.. after 20 -30 seconds... the argument made by some is that they can tell the difference... I'm not convinced its that big a deal...


There are also more interesting things that come into play when you consider the combination of the capacitance from your battery and the inductance from the coil ( the atty) that we don't discuss here... they contribute to the behavior when the circuit is switched on and off... Part of using a regulator isolates the battery's characteristics from the rest of the circuit... also keep in mind, with PWM, you are switching the circuit on and off thousands if not hundreds of thousands of times a second.....
 

Shad0w

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Have I told you all how glad I am to have you all here?

Jimho my friend, you have the absolute right of it. I would like to thank you for explaining these things while I have been gone today. It would seem that there was some continued animosity that I missed (thankfully..). You have explained things perfectly and in a straightforward fashion that should make sense, so again Thank You.

Ripple buddy, it will definitely be a post Christmas thing as we said before. Your patience and positive outlook are a welcome breath of fresh air. Thank You.

NebullaBrot, you provided an insightful and apt correlation in the matter of choice of device or automobile. It was well put and I would like to thank you also for your positive outlook. It is true that others are also venturing into the field of micro-processor control in order to attain the most efficiency, I wish them all the best and am sure they will be wonderful devices.

MWA my friend, your heart is in the right place and you are also asking wonderful questions. Your interest and positive attitude toward the Eclipse are very welcome and I hope your excitement becomes contagious!

Basilray, it is good to see you are still here bud, we missed you!

Yellowman, welcome to our small corner of the sandbox. I hope we have at least piqued your interest and that you stick around for the fun we will have. :)

LowThudd good to see you are still around as well bro, I was worried for a bit there. Welcome home.

To any that I may have left out specifically, I appreciate all of your various contributions to this thread to keep it informative, fun and friendly. Do not think for a moment that it goes unnoticed.

THank you all.

- Shadow
 

mwa102464

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Jimho, I totally understand and agree with what you're saying and the PWM will make our power cell pretty efficient, However the small change that takes place in the 5 second vape we take of heat change has always been there and I'm not sure this is going to come into play that much. We will just have to see the final product of what Mario is going to deliver to us all and make our judgment then I think.
 

Friend of Atlas

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@mwa and others not picking this up - regarding your example- the main point you're missing is that resistance changes with temperature- generally it increases- so if you set your voltage for 4V on a 2 ohm atty it starts out at 8 watts... but the longer you run it, the more the atty resistance increases... just to illustrate, suppose it goes up by 10%... the power will fade along with it... so after 5 seconds you might have 2.2 ohms and 7.27 Watts... suppose it goes up by another 10% after 10 seconds... 2.42 ohms @4V= 6Watts.... If you managed the device to a power set by the user, you'd increase the voltage (or maintain the current) as the resistance increases and keep it at 8 watts..

I used high numbers to illustrate - more likely 10% total would be on the high end.. after 20 -30 seconds... the argument made by some is that they can tell the difference... I'm not convinced its that big a deal...


There are also more interesting things that come into play when you consider the combination of the capacitance from your battery and the inductance from the coil ( the atty) that we don't discuss here... they contribute to the behavior when the circuit is switched on and off... Part of using a regulator isolates the battery's characteristics from the rest of the circuit... also keep in mind, with PWM, you are switching the circuit on and off thousands if not hundreds of thousands of times a second.....

What's PWM for those of us barely following along? pulse something something?

You know you asked an interesting question that has unfortunately gone undiscussed and unanswered because rather than taking the time to articulate it properly you've chosen to hurl insults at the very person that would need to answer.

What was the interesting question? I didn't pick it up... and I'm interested to know an interesting answer :)
 
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