INTRODUCING - MonsterMesh RBA Drops NOW! onto the scene and the Faranheight up as well!!! GV Rebuildables

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Dieseler

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Example of homemade mesh wick.
100mm rolled over paper clip 400 mesh before it was oxidized .
Here is same 400 mesh i oxidixed in a DID tank for example .
Kanthal A-1 32 gauge 4/5 wrap 2.3 ohm coil @ 4.2 volt with 3 second fireing and picture taken with gripper mod with 75pg/25vg RY4 DIY e-liquid

dieseler-albums-emotions-2-picture148292-100mm-400ss-mesh.jpg


dieseler-albums-emotions-2-picture148300-2-3-ohm-coil.jpg
 

Rule62

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Yep. What ^he said. These things are eGo killers, unless you are a very experienced builder. Even then, a short circuit or a popped coil can happen at any time. You are using a wick which is made of metal, which you are insulating with a microscopically thin layer of insulation by oxidizing it; and then wrapping a coil around it, which is also made of metal. Most people who are using Genesis type rebuildables are using them on either mechanical mods, or mods with short circuit and amp limit protection.
 

rdsok

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That will pretty much accomplish the same thing as the washers, I think.

Adding washers help keep the surfaces that touch the wire from twisting as much. This helps keep it from pushing on the wire directly. It won't completely stop the twisting, just stops the initial part which helps some. This is an old Ma' Bell procedure that they require on their tie down posts that helps avoid nicks on the wires which can cause them to break later down the road...

I didn't require using them myself, but I have enough experience tightening down fine wire onto posts that it usually doesn't cause me any problems too much. I only mentioned them because they do help others in these situations.
 

JPoodles

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Really and what is this for?

The Twist battery is safer than regular eGo batteries because it offers 3 kinds of Protection:

Short Circuit Protection: When short circuit happens, the battery will shut down and not function again until short circuit is removed.

A multimeter should be enough? Or am i missing something here

If your spinners have protection then they shouldn't pop. My kgo vv have protection and they worned me when I had a short in my phoenix. Plus, I do use a multimeter. Nonvariables dont always have protection and I've popped some even after reading them with a multimeter. You may have lost a connection as mentioned earlier although I don't think that is a result from shorting. Good Luck
 

dannoman

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Actually there is an extra screw in that lil coil and wick packet you get along with soem extra seals and o-rings...

I got one the other day. I fiddled with it until I got the coil to glow. I killed a lot of time doing that.

I tried to put some juice in but that hole is so small the dropper I thought I could use is not gonna work.

I did get to puff on it a bit and it tasted nice for a bit. Until I realized my poor old LT screen had fogged up from me washing all the juice I spilled off of it.

This thing isn't really gonna leave the house. It is too fiddly. Also, I can't beleive there isn't a extra tiny screw included.
 

dannoman

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Gelam - see my post above : )


Anyone have any ideas on where to get orings/seals for the new GV MonsterMesh RBA I just bought from GotVapes? This thing leaks juice like you have never seen, it literally leaks out as fast as I drip it in. I fully expected to tinker, tweek, experiment with the coil to hit the sweet spot per the GV site but it has to perform the most basic duty of holding juice first. GV's help consisted of sending me here to I guess find others who have the same problem. They basically told me this item is experimental and NOT CONSIDERED TO BE OPERATIONAL OUT OF THE BOX.

So does anyone know where to find orings/seals for this thing?
 

rdsok

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Hi, So where we supposed to all recieve extra orings and screws with the RBA Monster RE-Buildable? Wondering, because I did not recieve anything with mine and I would have appreciated having the extra part's to go with this.

The Birkshire is the one with the extra parts according to the GV website
 

mikecup

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Should this SS mesh wick as well as silica?
I'm just getting a lot of burnt tasting hits.(using 400 SS with 32 kanthal 4 wraps)
I have been turning my provari upside down and sideways, sometimes its ok, sometimes not.
Just wondering does it take time to wick without helping it. I hope I'm not wrapping the mesh to tight, if that's possible.
 

Dieseler

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Should this SS mesh wick as well as silica?
I'm just getting a lot of burnt tasting hits.(using 400 SS with 32 kanthal 4 wraps)
I have been turning my provari upside down and sideways, sometimes its ok, sometimes not.
Just wondering does it take time to wick without helping it. I hope I'm not wrapping the mesh to tight, if that's possible.

A properly made SS mesh wick first installed in tank without firing will saturate itself within a mintue or 2 just sitting standing up in a tank.
As for burning taste that could be a number of things first and foremost a short, with a short it will taste burnt.
Many times a short occurs at the top coil going to the positive connection as it will glow when fired no coils should glow at all when vaping.
Setting up a new coil and testing it with No e-liquid is most important as you want to observe all coils glowing evenly.
If they are not adjust them carefully as not to scrape the mesh as the oxidation on it is very thin.
Once their ok fill tank and after a fireing there should be no coils that glow none like in post #81 if there is adjust them a little at a time but be careful not to burn yourself.

Mike as a note i use 400 mesh with A-1 Kanthal 32gauge . Resistance will vary depending on the wires length being used longer wire equals higher coil ohm.

Airholes on the genesis tank must line up for best performance and taste as you inhale via the drip tip your pulling air directly across the coil otherwise taste is off.
Once you get a coil going properly it will surprise you on how well it vapes and the clean taste it brings to your e-liquid.

Airhole size is ones personal preference and range usually from 1mm to 1.5mm . 1mm being a tighter draw and 1.5mm being a more airy draw.
 
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ruff

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I've had mine a couple of days now and since the initial coil shorted out on me i decided to try rebuilding it as i have my vivi tanks, only to figure out five coils later that i had removed the oxidation off the wick in my attempts lol, once i figured that part out it was smooth sailing, as for the fill hole yeah it's a bit small but i had a couple syringes handy from my diy stuff, once filled i found that leaving the fill screw out helped with wicking greatly and in 2 full days I've managed to go thru half a bottle of the gv pyramid fusion.

Sent from my SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2
 

mikecup

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A properly made SS mesh wick first installed in tank without firing will saturate itself within a mintue or 2 just sitting standing up in a tank.
As for burning taste that could be a number of things first and foremost a short, with a short it will taste burnt.
Many times a short occurs at the top coil going to the positive connection as it will glow when fired no coils should glow at all when vaping.
Setting up a new coil and testing it with No e-liquid is most important as you want to observe all coils glowing evenly.
If they are not adjust them carefully as not to scrape the mesh as the oxidation on it is very thin.
Once their ok fill tank and after a fireing there should be no coils that glow none like in post #81 if there is adjust them a little at a time but be careful not to burn yourself.

Mike as a note i use 400 mesh with A-1 Kanthal 32gauge . Resistance will vary depending on the wires length being used longer wire equals higher coil ohm.

Airholes on the genesis tank must line up for best performance and taste as you inhale via the drip tip your pulling air directly across the coil otherwise taste is off.
Once you get a coil going properly it will surprise you on how well it vapes and the clean taste it brings to your e-liquid.

Airhole size is ones personal preference and range usually from 1mm to 1.5mm . 1mm being a tighter draw and 1.5mm being a more airy draw.


Thanks for the advice.
My top wire was glowing bright orange causing the burnt taste, nasty by the way.
What I did to solve my problem was I used the rolling paper method, very simple and its working well so far. I have 5 wraps and the provari is showing 2.2 ohms. Seems much better now, no burnt taste at all just flavor,TH and vapor. I think I have it working now the way its supposed to. I'm just glad I have a provari or Im sure I would have blown a few batteries. Just a few things I hope they come out with a clear tube or even better a tube with a window to see the juice level, also either the screws or the Allen key are not the best, I'm already getting slipping when I work with them. These genesis style atty's are real nice when you get them working well.
 

Rule62

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Thanks for the advice.
My top wire was glowing bright orange causing the burnt taste, nasty by the way.
What I did to solve my problem was I used the rolling paper method, very simple and its working well so far. I have 5 wraps and the provari is showing 2.2 ohms. Seems much better now, no burnt taste at all just flavor,TH and vapor. I think I have it working now the way its supposed to. I'm just glad I have a provari or Im sure I would have blown a few batteries. Just a few things I hope they come out with a clear tube or even better a tube with a window to see the juice level, also either the screws or the Allen key are not the best, I'm already getting slipping when I work with them. These genesis style atty's are real nice when you get them working well.

If you are in an area where you can purchase syringes, and have a Tractor Supply nearby, a 12ml syringe makes a perfect clear tube. Just cut it exactly the same length as the metal tube, and put a little PG or VG on the o rings to help slip the tube on.
 

JPoodles

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Got mine today and right off noticed two things. The cap's hole does not line up with the wick when screwed on all the way so you have to back it up(unscrew) a lil to do so. The coil was totally f'd. It matters not to me because I was planning to install a 500 mesh and I would need to rewrap a coil anyhow. Just thought I'd let yall know. Oh and I didn't even get the allen key with mine :mad:
For further reference (if anyone cares) the outer diameter is 16 mm(15 1/2). There are a few gennies out there at this diameter (was looking for around 14mm) but this price is pretty good for trial.
 

Dieseler

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Mike happy for you that its working !!!
You just missed a co-op on the 500 mesh as i see your a verified member as i. ; )
500 is supposed to be better than 400 is what i hear 400 works just fine for me but the 500 - 12x12inch sheet was same price as a 4x6inch sheet so i had to open up my wallet.
It will come around again im sure.

Now there is 635 mesh at some places but it's very very expensive , im sticking with 400/500 it works good enough for me.

JP, the Chinese have not figured out yet that the airhole needs alignment but i'm thinking they will sooner or later if its not already in the works.
 

JPoodles

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I get my mesh here
The Mesh Company (Warrington) Ltd #400 Super Fine E-Cig Filtration Mesh - 25 Micron
it comes highly recommended, ships fast, and Chris was responsive when I emailed him because my order was misfilled. Even though it was misfilled, there was no arguing when it came down to shipping out what was missing.
Check out these threads
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/284030-wick-materials-safe-vs-dangerous.html

It took me a sec to figure out where the cap fit best for draw and throat hit but now I'm good. I cut my mesh slightly angled so i get a nice cone tip when i roll it (longest edge first) no center tube and as tight as I can. I used the rolling paper trick with A1 32g kanthal /4/5 wrap 2.0 ohms and I'm vaping at 3.0 volts. Good taste and so far not leaking :p
 
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