Is sub ohm now considered safe??

[mick500]

Hi guys, been awhile since I posted on here, had a few dramas when I first took up vaping about 6 months ago but I'm back for another crack at it.

Last time I was on the scene the mvp2 was all the rage and vaping at around 10 watts was the norm, obviously things move fast in the vaping world.

Now it's I stick 50w and subtank minis and delta 2's lol.

Just wondering If vaping at sub ohm levels is now considered safe, because I plan on going in and grabbing a heap of new stuff tomorrow, the istick 50w being part of what I will be getting, but I have a aerotank mega currently that I was thinking of using.. But seems a bit of a waste, but I only want to go with the delta 2 or subtank mini if they are considered safe, and pretty sure last time I was around sub ohm vaping was considered a do at your own risk type thing, now it seems to be recommended for everyone?

Cheers for any advice.

 

[Asbestos4004]

Its still do at your own risk. It's gotten safer with regulated mods but people still want to push the envelope. Read up on batteries and their limits. Learn ohms law. The fact that companies are mass producing sub ohm gear doesn't change anything.... You're still asking a lot from a battery. Make sure its a good one.

 

[mick500]

So is it really that much safer vaping on a coil that's 1.5 ohm compared to 0.5 ohm? For the record I would just be getting the istick 50w with the delta 2 and vaping at the recommended 25 to 40 watts. I would have thought that Should be just as safe as vaping at 1.5 ohms with the aerotank mega on the istick, but no?

 

[bullet08]

from what i have been told sub ohm is anything less than 1 ohm. with most batteries, i think down to .5 ohm is fine. if you go down to .3 ohm, some of the batteries will handle it fine. down to .2 ohm.. it's pushing it with most of the batteries. down to .1 ohm.. well.. it will only be as safe as how much your battery can handle the load and how careful you are. things can always go wrong.

 

[realsis]

There is quite a difference between a Subtank sub ohm and making your own coils and Sub Ohm in on a mech mod! First subtank are usually ran on regulated devices, meaning the device will shut itself off if their is any problem. A mech Mod IS NOT REGULATED and will NOT shut off with any problems. With the mech mod you need to know how many Amps your pulling so you don't we xceed the batteries Amp limit. A mech mod WILL FIRE a short. A regulated mod wont. So you can clearly see the differences between the Risks. So you see why I say it's different? If your running a mech mod and don't know what your doing during Sub Ohm you can be putting yourself at a great risk. But sub ohm with the new coils sub tanks and regulated mods are not even close to sub ohm with a mech mod. So yes and no. Yes they made sub ohm safer with the new tanks and regulated mods, but no, it's still a risk with a mechanical mod. Hope this helps and best wishes.

 

[JMarca]

The ohms alone isn't what makes sub ohm'ing dangerous, I can vape a very low ohm coil at very low power and put nearly no strain on the battery. It's when you start to pair low ohms and high voltage/wattage that you have to be careful. I'm not saying don't do it. I'd just advise you to be careful and always use good batteries.

 

[mick500]

There is quite a difference between a Subtank sub ohm and making your own coils and Sub Ohm in on a mech mod! First subtank are usually ran on regulated devices, meaning the device will shut itself off if their is any problem. A mech Mod IS NOT REGULATED and will NOT shut off with any problems. With the mech mod you need to know how many Amps your pulling so you don't we xceed the batteries Amp limit. A mech mod WILL FIRE a short. A regulated mod wont. So you can clearly see the differences between the Risks. So you see why I say it's different? If your running a mech mod and don't know what your doing during Sub Ohm you can be putting yourself at a great risk. But sub ohm with the new coils sub tanks and regulated mods are not even close to sub ohm with a mech mod. So yes and no. Yes they made sub ohm safer with the new tanks and regulated mods, but no, it's still a risk with a mechanical mod. Hope this helps and best wishes.

Cheers man.

So as long as I stick with something like the istick 50w and the delta 2/subtank mini it should be just as safe as using say the aerotank mega as it has the same safety precautions in place?

 

[realsis]

In my opinion, yes . Why? Because your device is regulated and will SHUT OFF at any problem or issue. That's NOT the case with a mech mod. With a regulated mod you have that protection. It will cut off at what ever the factory ohm limitations are, it will also cut off with a short. So you have that piece of mind. Still don't be careless. However you have these safety precautions in place with a regulated mod. Hope this Helps.

 

[BigC52]

It all comes down to your knowledge and understanding.
"Sub-ohming" has always been safe, but as is human nature, people tend to become fearmongers of things they don't understand.
Am I saying running a .09ohm dual coil on a dirty mechanical mod with an efest battery or other 15a/20a continuous battery safe, with no previous building experience? No.
It's up to you if you want to take that sort of risk. I myself have no reason to go beyond .16ohm in a single 18650 mech or .4ohm in a dual 18650 mech. Both of which are well within my battery limits. (.4ohm at 8.4v equates to a theoretical 176.4w. I have no want or need to go beyond that.)
Another thing that's generally thought of as unsafe is stacking batteries. Again, if you understand what you're doing, it is perfectly safe. If you don't, don't fool with it.

 

[rolygate]

The sub-ohm issues are these:

1. If you run super high amps then if there is any kind of a problem, your battery needs to be high quality. Virtually all today's batteries are high quality, so that's not a problem - any genuine IMR or hybrid battery should be safe even if you cook it. In the past, people used ICR (regular Li-ion cells) and they are NOT safe for sub-ohm.

The problem is that battery counterfeiting is rife. We know of 3 mechmod explosions, where the device exploded so violently that the hardware was turned into shrapnel. This is because only very large gas vents will prevent an explosion if an ICR cell goes into thermal runaway, and mechmods are almost all sealed (tiny gas vents are useless in an explosion - all the devices that exploded almost certainly had the usual tiny vents). Some are well-vented: the AT series, the Reo LT for example.

The new high-power regulated (electronic) boxmods are safer for higher power draw usage as they have multiple built-in safety features, whether these are by design or not. Mechmods are more rugged and will almost certainly last longer, but they are simply a battery connector in the form of a tube. It helps if the tube isn't a sealed pipe. Modern batteries are very safe indeed - but that's assuming you have a genuine battery, and since there have been a couple of explosions it seems that battery counterfeiting may be a factor.

So if you buy cheap batteries and run tens of amps with sub-0.5 ohm coils, maybe get a regulator boxmod.


2. Vaping e-liquid at 1.5 ohms, 0.5 oms and 0.1 ohms is not the same deal. The chemical composition of the vapour will be different. It may only be slightly different, or it may be different enough that there is an elevation of risk with the lower coil resistances.

If there is any elevation of risk then it may be significant - a lot - or it may be of no real consequence. Until a first-class independent researcher like Dr Farsalinos can look at these issues then we don't know. So until then, the only thing that can be said is that the issues are not known although it may be better to stay above 0.5 ohm at this time, until the full chemical profile of vapour produced at 200 C (which is what you'll be getting at under 0.5 ohms on a mechmod) is known. An atomiser normally runs at around 70 C (in a regular head like a 510, carto, clearo or tank) and we know there are no problems at all with this temperature. Above that, nobody knows.


So all in all, if you are interested in keeping risk within known boundaries, buy high-quality batteries (there are no cheap, high-quality batteries) - buy high-quality e-liquid (there is no cheap, high-quality e-liquid) - and stay above 0.5 ohms (above 1 ohm, to be extra careful).

Some vapers care about these things, some don't care at all. It's your choice.

 

[Foggyroomz]

I build both RDA and sub-tank atomizer's I run both regulated and mechanical mods. The thing is that the I-Stick 50 watt is going to eliminate the battery safety concern because if you try to build too low the device won't allow you to fire it. The Delta is very nice slightly more expensive and the RBA section is sold separately. The Sub-tank mini comes with the RBA section, a spare glass tube, spare seals, Japanese cotton pre-made coil for RBA section, and a 0.50 ohm coil head as well as a 1.2 ohm coil head all of which can be rebuilt. I love the Sub-tank mini it has become my all Day vape buddy. It doesn't make the hugest clouds of a sub-ohming tank system but it does produce fantastic flavor. I run mine at 24.5 watts with a 28gauge nichrome parallel coil 3 mm inner diameter at 6 wraps and it is fantastic with the airflow wide open.

 

[Wolfenstark]

Well its all been covered.

 

[cwoodnola]

I think you need to ask yourself why you want to build coils at .2,.1 or below. If you want the adventure of cloud chasing you may want that type of build. If you are looking for good vapor production and vape for taste and effect you can get very good results with a Mech mod and a build around .5. When dealing with Mech mods you still have to consider a high quality battery and you need to monitor the charge. I usually switch batteries in my Mechs at about 3.6 volts. The safest way to go is with the regulated devices some of which produce great results with a lot more safety. Like I said before you really need to base your equipment and build on the results you are trying to achieve.

 

[realsis]

Since your device is regulated it should be a lot "safer" then a mech mod. Your device simply won't fire if there is too low of ohm coil or short.

 

[Noble Gas]

Something else you should know about vaping at increasingly lower resistance levels; the vapor gets much warmer and may be intolerable if that's where you're starting out. Also, your juice gets burned up at a considerably faster rate, the usual gunk that builds up on your coils also happens much quicker, and batteries don't last as long. What this means is more frequent maintenance, more money spent on juice and coils, and more time spent running back and forth to the battery charger. Granted, a nice warm vape can be very satisfying and the clouds are fun, but the cost and time needed to keep it running increases exponentially.