Is there such a thing as a good 26500 battery?

[double_aa_ron]

I have 2 efest 26500 that I use with my BAM, but I can't seem to get more than 12 hours out of them using a kick. If that's normal then I guess it is what it is, but I was under the impression that I would get well over a days use out of a charge. Are there any other 26500s that you would suggest to use kicked?

 

[Hello World]

I have never used a kick, but have read numerous times that it heavily sucks down your battery charge in about 4 hours or so depending on your vaping habits.

 

[dangkhoa02106]

Maybe the capacity is high but how is the C rate of it? If the C rate is low, your device will drain your battery so fast.

 

[Donovan69]

I have been using a kick in my bolt. I use it with a 18490 aw imr. It is only 1100 mah. I get all day use out of it but have had it die twice earlier in the day like 3 pm. Mind you I start vaping at 5am usually. As well I am only vaping at 8 watts. So there are too many variables to say how long it is gonna last. I may get another extension for my bolt then I can run it in 18650 mode with the kick but I don't really need it as I vape a couple of mods throughout the day and I am totally .... about having my batteries charged up.

 

[double_aa_ron]

We are talking about a 26500 battery here. It's a 3000mah battery. You would think I would be getting at least a day and a half of vape time. As a way of refference, I get almost two solid days out of my MVP @ 4.5 volts with 2.2 ohm cartos(2600mah). Almost a full day out of my provari 18490 1100mah.

 

[Ryedan]

I assume you have the efest IMR batteries, correct?

Considering the kick is limited to 10 watts max, you should be getting way more than 12 hours out of 3000 mAh. Seeing what you get from the Provari and the MVP makes it even more certain for me. IMO it's either the batteries are not really 3000 mAh or there is an issue with the kick's low battery cutoff. If you've used the kick in another mod and it was fine, it's probably not the kick. You can also check the voltage of the batts when they get shut down. Should be about 3.3.

Can't help with better battery selection as I don't use this size.

ETA: Seems AW has 26500's. General consensus is you can't go wrong with them.

 

[zapped]

Cart resistance is probably WAY to low. Try stepping up to 3.ohms and you'll see a drastic change in your battery life.

It sounded backwards to me at first as well, but higher resistance equal less drain on the battery which equals longer battery life.

Lower resistance equals more drain (and can potentially set up a hazardous situation where the batteries are discharging too fast F.Y.I ) and shorter battery life.

 

[Ryedan]

Cart resistance is probably WAY to low. Try stepping up to 3.ohms and you'll see a drastic change in your battery life.

It sounded backwards to me at first as well, but higher resistance equal less drain on the battery which equals longer battery life.

Lower resistance equals more drain (and can potentially set up a hazardous situation where the batteries are discharging too fast F.Y.I ) and shorter battery life.

Zapped, he's limited to 10 watts by the kick, which is not that high.

 

[Hello World]

Zapped, he's limited to 10 watts by the kick, which is not that high.

Upping the resistance = reducing amperage = longer battery charge, whether a kick is used or not.

 

[Ryedan]

Upping the resistance = reducing amperage = longer battery charge, whether a kick is used or not.

You're absolutely correct Hello World. But unless I've got this way wrong, at a maximum possible power of 10 watts, you should get way more than 12 hours out of 3,000 mAh at double_aa_ron's vape pace.

Maybe I should have said it this way:

From double_aa_ron's earlier post; "I get almost two solid days out of my MVP @ 4.5 volts with 2.2 ohm cartos(2600mah)." That's at 9.2 watts, not far from the 10 watt max, so whatever he's using now it can't be drawing much more power. The efests are supposedly 3,000 mAh and he's down to less than a day.

 

[Switched]

I assume you have the efest IMR batteries, correct?

Considering the kick is limited to 10 watts max, you should be getting way more than 12 hours out of 3000 mAh. Seeing what you get from the Provari and the MVP makes it even more certain for me. IMO it's either the batteries are not really 3000 mAh or there is an issue with the kick's low battery cutoff. If you've used the kick in another mod and it was fine, it's probably not the kick. You can also check the voltage of the batts when they get shut down. Should be about 3.3.

Can't help with better battery selection as I don't use this size.

ETA: Seems AW has 26500's. General consensus is you can't go wrong with them.

AW no longer makes the 26500 cell.

 

[Rader2146]

For a VV or VW device, resistance has no effect on battery drain current. The current at the coil will be less with higher resistance, but the current from the battery is going to be the same for high resistance as it is for low resistance.

The only variable is the efficiancy of the regulator, which depending on the device could help or hurt battery life by changing the resistance.

 

[Roccov]

The Kick will detect, and stop functioning, when a battery charge level drops below 3.2 volts UNDER LOAD (with an atty/carto attached). This is a safety feature. The battery will read higher off load. I get much longer run times without the Kick. It will also allow for many more charge cycles by not running all the way down. So the 12 hours sounds about right.

 

[Ryedan]

For a VV or VW device, resistance has no effect on battery drain current. The current at the coil will be less with higher resistance, but the current from the battery is going to be the same for high resistance as it is for low resistance.

The only variable is the efficiancy of the regulator, which depending on the device could help or hurt battery life by changing the resistance.

Just when I thought I was getting this, you say that Rader ! I understand that VV/VW pulses power on and off to make the average power output equal the set point. I always thought the battery sees that duty cycle more or less like reduced current drain. I imagine the devil is in the 'more or less' part. It does hold though as far as heat build up and current drain over time are concerned, correct?

 

[Rader2146]

The pulse width modulation is strategy to achieve the desired voltage, but doesnt have too much impact on the drain current unless you want to get into the more advanced details like peak current vs average current.

The basic principles are quite simple; energy cannot be created or destroyed, only transformed. -Law of Conservation of Energy

What that means to us is that the input power (watts) from the battery must be equal to the output power that is consumed by the coil. That is a very simplified version, I go into more detail here: Calculating Battery Drain Current

In the end, if you vape at 10 watts, then the battery must supply 10 watts of power (plus efficiency losses) regardless of resistance. In an ideal circuit (no efficiency loss), if battery voltage is 4.0V then the battery drain current will be 2.5A @ 10W, regardless of resistance.

Again, this is all pretty simplified and only talking about the average current.

 

[Ryedan]

Got it and thanks Rader. That's pretty much exactly where I was coming from. I just couldn't have explained it as well as you did

 

[Hello World]

What that means to us is that the input power (watts) from the battery must be equal to the output power that is consumed by the coil. That is a very simplified version, I go into more detail here: Calculating Battery Drain Current

In the end, if you vape at 10 watts, then the battery must supply 10 watts of power (plus efficiency losses) regardless of resistance. In an ideal circuit (no efficiency loss), if battery voltage is 4.0V then the battery drain current will be 2.5A @ 10W, regardless of resistance.

Rader ... thanks so much for your informative replies.

Have a question:

When calculating values using Electronic Calculators, what value should be used for the voltage?

The measured voltage by volt-meter from the battery, or 3.7v what is stated on the battery itself, or the measured voltage from the neg. & pos on. the mod?

Different for regulated and mechanical mods?

 

[Rader2146]

Most accurate would be the measured voltage of the battery while under load, but that is next to impossible to do with most VV/VW mods. Next best is the resting voltage with a meter. Just know that the working loaded voltage is going to be slightly less than the resting voltage.

 

[Hello World]

Most accurate would be the measured voltage of the battery while under load, but that is next to impossible to do with most VV/VW mods. Next best is the resting voltage with a meter. Just know that the working loaded voltage is going to be slightly less than the resting voltage.

Cool. I was primarily interested in the mech mod aspect. Forgot to mention that.

Resting voltage of battery = 4.1 volts measured.

Pos. & neg. on atty on mechanical when fired reads 3.46 volts.

I would use the second value above?

 

[Rader2146]

Correct. Mech mods you will use the voltage at the posts, in your case the 3.46V.