Is this safe? I kinda don't want to die yet.

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Oryx

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May 13, 2013
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So I ran into some trouble getting my diablo to make contact and fire 18350 mode. I used a spacer that I got with my xtar charger to conduct the current. It works. but I wanted to know if it was safe... I don't want it to explode on me. I don't think I'm ready to die yet.

pics right here:

the setup


The battery and the charger spacer


how I'm stacking it.



Top view with spacer.
 

Mattmancool34

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You could put some electrical tape around the outside of that spacer to keep it centered with less rattle. I came into a similar issue and made a solid brass spacer, similar to a washer with a short nut and bolt type of thing with some vinyl around the outside of the washer to keep it from allowing the positive contact to short on the casing of the mod.

I did this with left over metal working supplies so its only about 3 mm tall but you could probably make something similar with a dollar or two at home depot.
 

WarHawk-AVG

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Using magnets as spacers is bit of a nono last I heard.

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Yeah safest way to have a spacer is conductor up the middle and the insulator on the outside like the picture from the OP...anything else you risk it shifting and shorting the + connector to the - body! When that happens you get to come here and tell everyone you have a new 'splody 'splody battery.
 

Oryx

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May 13, 2013
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Yeah safest way to have a spacer is conductor up the middle and the insulator on the outside like the picture from the OP...anything else you risk it shifting and shorting the + connector to the - body! When that happens you get to come here and tell everyone you have a new 'splody 'splody battery.

Thanks everyone. I feel safer now. Yes it works perfectly. And the battery used to be a protected efest 18350. I just removed the protection circuit. Thanks again guys!!
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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Can't say I like the sound of your description on what you did to your battery. Considering the battery is about the least expensive and most important part of any mechanical, why not just get batteries that you don't need to modify. I'm no expert, though I've read plenty on battery safety, but what you describe sounds like a huge potential problem to me. Maybe the battery gurus will come along and set us straight. My recommendation is to immediately replace your modified battery with new batteries, the best batteries you can get, and suggest this website:

Genuine AW Batteries at RTD Vapor

Anwyay, good luck to you! My two cents...
 

EddardinWinter

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I feel safer now. Yes it works perfectly. And the battery used to be a protected efest 18350. I just removed the protection circuit.

Uh, I don't know about this at anything approaching expert levels, but it sounds a bit jacked up to me. One of the battery gurus will come and weigh in soon.

Granted, I know only a little about batteries, so I stick to genuine AWs and always follow manufacturer's instructions. I never use magnetic spacers cause Provari says specifically not to, but that doesn't make it wrong for every device.
 

Coastal Cowboy

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Thanks everyone. I feel safer now. Yes it works perfectly. And the battery used to be a protected efest 18350. I just removed the protection circuit. Thanks again guys!!

Isn't the Diablo a mechanical/hybrid? Why would you remove the only safety feature available in your setup?
 

WarHawk-AVG

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Thanks everyone. I feel safer now. Yes it works perfectly. And the battery used to be a protected efest 18350. I just removed the protection circuit. Thanks again guys!!
I pulled the protection circuit from a 18350 in my Vamo...for a few reasons

A. The Vamo has overcurrent protection built in..the protection ckt on the battery was interfering with the overcurrent protection on the Vamo...shutting it down if I turned the power up over 4 watts
B. Running "normal resistance coils" on my Vamo means even at 6-7 watts the current draw will not get near the "overcurrent" conditions of even a ICR batteries current limit (IMR chemistry allow for higher current before it 'splody 'splody)

Running a "sub ohm" coil on a "mechanical rig" with a ICR with removed protection just turned it into a "grenade waiting to happen"

A mechanical is just that mechanical...its a physical push button switch, it would be like a car with no throttle..just turn the key and wham engine starts and runs wide open until the key to turn it off is turned...sub ohm will more than likely exceed the internal current capacity of an ICR which means it will heat up, lowering resistance making more current making more heat...get it going too long too hot too fast...thermal runaway and the already sealed and pressurized Li Ion battery pressure build like a propane tank in a fire and BOOM..you get a vent...lets hope the vent is controlled and not go off like a grenade!

Always remember IMR batteries due to chemistry and construction are capable of pushing ALOT more current than ICR's...this is why they purpose build the ICR's with protection!
Lithium Ion Battery Chemistry

ICR (LiCoO2)
Chemical composition is lithium cobalt oxide
4.2 volt max charge, 3.7V nominal voltage
Not a safe chemistry, so should only be purchased with a protection circuit that guards against overcharging and over-discharging
Higher energy density, but lower charge and discharge rate


IMR (LiMn204)
Chemical composition is lithium manganese oxide
4.2V max charge, 3.7V nominal charge
Safer chemistry, so is not available with a protection circuit. But that means you must guard against overcharge and overdischarge themselves.
Slightly lower energy density than ICR, but can sustain much higher discharge and charge rates. Use these cells when an application calls for "high-drain" cells.


IFR (LiFePO4)
Chemical composition is lithium iron phosphate.
3.6V max charge, 3.2V nominal voltage
Safer chemistry, so is not available with a protection circuit. But that means the consumer must guard against overcharge and overdischarge themselves
Lower energy density than ICR, but can sustain higher discharge and charge rates.

Do the math with an online calculator..most ICR's can push around 2-4amps, IMR's can push 10-20's (depending on model/manufacturer)

These guys show that ICR protected being able of pushing 2.5A continuous (same battery just different wrapper
http://ukvapers.org/Thread-Efest-18350-protected-battery

By plugging in 3.7vdc to 4.2vdc (normal range of Li Ion voltages) the LOWEST you could go in resistance without exceeding the 2.5A MAX current is 1.48Ω any lower and you elevate the risk of 'splody 'splody astronomically...what happens if you accidentally push and hold down the button?
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php



On a mechanical with no sort of protection...run IMR...you have to manually check to ensure you don't over drain the batteries though!
 
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Baditude

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Oryx said:
I feel safer now. And the battery used to be a protected efest 18350. I just removed the protection circuit. Thanks again guys!!
Well don't.

Be forewarned by nearly everyone that has responded to this thread. Pulling the protective circuit from a Li Ion battery is ignorant, no matter what excuse you come up with. They put protected circuits on Li Ions for a very good reason. Their chemistry is unstable and voltatile (as in flames) should the batteries become stressed for any reason and get hot. That protective circuit (as primitive as they are) was your only safeguard against a potential battery catastrophe.

DON'T USE IT!

Get yourself some high quality IMR batteries.
 
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