THX for that link.... an issue on a couple levels. So is the instruction sheet validity an issue?
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Issues with Hana Modz (Cana Mods) Clone DNA30
- Thread starter retird
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What user error?
Nope. I used it mainly for the different modes. But since it's for the Real Hana it makes me wonder. Not a biggie though.
LOL... I stand corrected.... I read the post wrong....not once but several times....will edit my previous post accordingly...thx...
Understand what you are saying....I think the instruction sheet included in the package for the mod should be specific to that device and if it is not then that is an issue. thx
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Got my Cloupor 30 yesterday from 101, ordered last friday.
Zero cosmetic flaws. Only grip with the connector is its hard to get my RDAs flush, but I've discovered they have longer than 'normal' 510 connectors. Russian 91%, aqua, etc screw all the way down. So that's neither here nor there.
Appears to function normally. No waking up randomly yet. One fire to click out of sleep. So far so good.
Running 0.6 ohm dual I noticed things seemed weak. Also dropping the wattage down to the point were the ohms were flashing and way below all the way down seemed to produce a sequentially weaker and weaker vape. Confused me as I thought once the unit couldn't regulate it would dump battery voltage to the atomizer.
Threw an inline tankometer between the mod and my atty
0.6 ohm, 30 watts...voltage at the meter was 3.45. Dropped the wattage and the voltage kept dropping until I got down to 7 watts and it was around 1.8...when it reads out. Sometimes the meter just flashes.
So a few things.
One is its not *just* dumping battery voltage when you go below what it can do with a .6 ohm coil as the voltage reading is way too low and it does drop with lowering wattage. Maybe its trying to do something, or maybe its just freaking out and can't process...
Second is at 0.6 ohm it's thus far incapable of providing 30 watts to a .6 ohm coil. In fact its undershooting to a pretty disappointing extent. Watching the review posted earlier in this thread it seems things should get better at 1.0 ohm and above. I will try a higher ohm build and see what I get.
That said as it stands now the thing is at best behaving like a mech that's near dead for me, which is unacceptable. I'm not married to sub ohm coils and will try higher res builds. If it doesn't shape up significantly at 1.0 ohm or higher its going back.
If anyone has done or is inclined to do some tests with a voltage meter or equivalent please sure
ETA: This was done with a newish sony VTC4, and more or less replicated with a the high amp purple Efest and MNKE
Zero cosmetic flaws. Only grip with the connector is its hard to get my RDAs flush, but I've discovered they have longer than 'normal' 510 connectors. Russian 91%, aqua, etc screw all the way down. So that's neither here nor there.
Appears to function normally. No waking up randomly yet. One fire to click out of sleep. So far so good.
Running 0.6 ohm dual I noticed things seemed weak. Also dropping the wattage down to the point were the ohms were flashing and way below all the way down seemed to produce a sequentially weaker and weaker vape. Confused me as I thought once the unit couldn't regulate it would dump battery voltage to the atomizer.
Threw an inline tankometer between the mod and my atty
0.6 ohm, 30 watts...voltage at the meter was 3.45. Dropped the wattage and the voltage kept dropping until I got down to 7 watts and it was around 1.8...when it reads out. Sometimes the meter just flashes.
So a few things.
One is its not *just* dumping battery voltage when you go below what it can do with a .6 ohm coil as the voltage reading is way too low and it does drop with lowering wattage. Maybe its trying to do something, or maybe its just freaking out and can't process...
Second is at 0.6 ohm it's thus far incapable of providing 30 watts to a .6 ohm coil. In fact its undershooting to a pretty disappointing extent. Watching the review posted earlier in this thread it seems things should get better at 1.0 ohm and above. I will try a higher ohm build and see what I get.
That said as it stands now the thing is at best behaving like a mech that's near dead for me, which is unacceptable. I'm not married to sub ohm coils and will try higher res builds. If it doesn't shape up significantly at 1.0 ohm or higher its going back.
If anyone has done or is inclined to do some tests with a voltage meter or equivalent please sure
ETA: This was done with a newish sony VTC4, and more or less replicated with a the high amp purple Efest and MNKE
Posted on 6-8-2014 in another thread the test I ran on the first release version that showed low power results with 3.0 ohm resistance:
I did a few tests this afternoon.... USB 2 and USB 3 had no bearing on whether the light turned green or red... mine stays red and dims by about 1/2 at full charge. I had previously drilled a hole beside the usb port on the clone so the led was very easy to see.
And on the performance I did the following:
Put together a new carto tank with 3.0 ohm carto. Checked the ohm's of the carto with a ohm checker and meter and both read 3.0 ohms.
Plugged in 8.5 watts @ 3.0 ohm's into my Ohm's Law calculator and receive the voltage answer of 5.04975 volts.
Set my real DNA wattage to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery. Set the Clone to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery.
Screwed the tank onto the real DNA and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 3.0 Voltage reading 5.1v (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed the same tank on the Clone and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 2.7 Voltage reading 4.7v (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed an in-line voltage meter onto the real DNA and screwed the tank into it. Fired with same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 5.1v. The dna display read 5.1v. (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed the in-line voltage meter onto the Clone and screwed the tank into it. Fired with the same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 4.6v. The dna display read 4.7v. (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator @ 8.5 watts )
I did a few tests this afternoon.... USB 2 and USB 3 had no bearing on whether the light turned green or red... mine stays red and dims by about 1/2 at full charge. I had previously drilled a hole beside the usb port on the clone so the led was very easy to see.
And on the performance I did the following:
Put together a new carto tank with 3.0 ohm carto. Checked the ohm's of the carto with a ohm checker and meter and both read 3.0 ohms.
Plugged in 8.5 watts @ 3.0 ohm's into my Ohm's Law calculator and receive the voltage answer of 5.04975 volts.
Set my real DNA wattage to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery. Set the Clone to 8.5 watts with a fully charged battery.
Screwed the tank onto the real DNA and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 3.0 Voltage reading 5.1v (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed the same tank on the Clone and pressed the fire button. Results from the display was: Wattage 8.5 Ohm reading 2.7 Voltage reading 4.7v (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed an in-line voltage meter onto the real DNA and screwed the tank into it. Fired with same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 5.1v. The dna display read 5.1v. (5.04975 per ohm's law calculator)
Screwed the in-line voltage meter onto the Clone and screwed the tank into it. Fired with the same 8.5 wattage setting and the in-line meter read at 4.6v. The dna display read 4.7v. (4.79062 per ohm's law calculator @ 8.5 watts )
Great stuff guys thank you. Exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for. I will do some more tests myself and post again. Man what a bummer!
Hana Modz Pack DNA 30 Style Clone video posted July 15, 2014... talks about some revisions.... noted a peep hole next to the usb port:
played around a bit more yesterday, seems the best I get with a .6 ohm build is 3.5 or maybe a tad higher (at the inline meter) vs. the 4.1V displayed on the mod screen
A 1.0 dual and a 1.5 ohm single allowed me to get around 27-28 watts with the screen telling me 30
So it would appear that the regulation does get better as you go higher (not sure if this continues to improve as you go even higher, e.g. above 1.5 ohm) on the newest version
So its not really a 30 watt device, but an almost 30 watt device contingent on your build being high enough in resistance...
Also, so far any posts or videos I've seen with actual measurements seem to indicate the same pattern, e.g. consistent under powering which is worse at sub ohm and better at 1 ohm and above
I wonder how much the battery plays into this, so far I''ve only used the '35A" efest, sony VTC4, AW 1600 and MNKEs. It would be great if a VTC5 improved things much but I wouldn't hold my breath lol
A 1.0 dual and a 1.5 ohm single allowed me to get around 27-28 watts with the screen telling me 30
So it would appear that the regulation does get better as you go higher (not sure if this continues to improve as you go even higher, e.g. above 1.5 ohm) on the newest version
So its not really a 30 watt device, but an almost 30 watt device contingent on your build being high enough in resistance...
Also, so far any posts or videos I've seen with actual measurements seem to indicate the same pattern, e.g. consistent under powering which is worse at sub ohm and better at 1 ohm and above
I wonder how much the battery plays into this, so far I''ve only used the '35A" efest, sony VTC4, AW 1600 and MNKEs. It would be great if a VTC5 improved things much but I wouldn't hold my breath lol
According to the instruction sheet the recommended batteries are:
7-20 watts- AM IMR, Panasonic CGR
20+ watts- Sony VTC4
The china variable wattage chipset is where the power (wattage) regulation occurs and the final output measured at the atty is the just the result of the chipset's design/function and total resistance measured between the output pins of the chipset and the atty coil.
The battery providing voltage within the minimum/maximum range required according to the specs should allow the chipset to function as designed.
7-20 watts- AM IMR, Panasonic CGR
20+ watts- Sony VTC4
The china variable wattage chipset is where the power (wattage) regulation occurs and the final output measured at the atty is the just the result of the chipset's design/function and total resistance measured between the output pins of the chipset and the atty coil.
The battery providing voltage within the minimum/maximum range required according to the specs should allow the chipset to function as designed.
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Retird did you ever do any power/voltage tests at other resistances or wattages with different ohm set ups? On the "newer" release if you have it (or older)
Nope..... just used the gear I have available with first release.
I wish I had your guys extra time. My Cana has some quirks, but has been the best purchase I have ever made. Almost 2 months and has NEVER let me down. You really don't expect perfection from a $70 clone do you? Mine has the 2-3 button to wake issue, and it hops a few .1watts every so often.
Anyway, time has passed and now my time is spent on the sx350 build I started and more current issues. Good luck with pointing out newer flaws in this mod, Hope it helps future buyers of this device.
Anyway, time has passed and now my time is spent on the sx350 build I started and more current issues. Good luck with pointing out newer flaws in this mod, Hope it helps future buyers of this device.
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I'm actually not convinced the clone board does measure output voltage. I suspect it reads resistance and fires on a calculated curve. The displayed voltage seems to be calculated, not measured.
Video put up on June 14, 2014 Titled: Cloupor DNA30 Modz (Hana Clone) Review - Not but Rather a Public Service Announcement
I've been having issues with mine as well, have not gone below 1.4ohm (that's what the mech mods are for) yet, so no comment on power output, but my stealth mode will not engage, just says "normal mode", and it will only remain in "right mode", and it will not "power lock"" either.
Seems to be working fine other than that and charging the battery okay (but with no indicator led).
I have been using it for my kayfun tank build and vapes fine though. I sent a message to elev8, but have not recv'd a response yet.
Seems to be working fine other than that and charging the battery okay (but with no indicator led).
I have been using it for my kayfun tank build and vapes fine though. I sent a message to elev8, but have not recv'd a response yet.
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