istick 30 watt reading coils too high

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uthinkofsomething

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When I first got it the istick read prebuilt coils in kanger sub and atlantis2 as .5, after a few weeks it reads them as .6 always even on a brand new coil and sometimes jumps higher in between hits giving me burnt dry hits. Seems like a problem with the device. I also have an rda a friend built with .4 dual coil and the istick has always read that as .4...
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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hi @uthinkofsomething , I have noticed all my coils start to read a 1/10th or so higher the longer I use them, attributed to coil gunk. Dry hits can be a result of the coil not getting wicked good enough, especially with high VG juices. I assume the dry wick can cause a little fluctuation in the readings also.

If the iStick is reading the rda properly and the other tanks differently I would think the issue is with the other tanks. Check and make certain the contact points of the tank are clean, as this can cause fluctuation in readings.

Good luck,
Bump for 2nd opinion.
 

uthinkofsomething

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Just to be safe I'd clean the bottom contact of the tank and the 510 connection on the iStick. Rubbing alcohol and a q tip. Make certain it is dry before firing.
I'll try all the connections next time I refill, which will be soon considering how much juice I go through :)
 

nyiddle

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.1 or even .2 fluctuations are normal. Most ohm readers (even DMM's) aren't great at reading sub-ohm resistances.

Slight variances are normal and will be expected, and won't change with cleaner contacts or less juice or anything anyone suggests. If it's messing with your wattage too much you can try switching to VV mode, as others suggest. It shouldn't really be fluctuating enough to cause inconsistent hits though.

Nothing to worry about.
 

uthinkofsomething

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I wouldn't be too concerned with a .1 difference in coil readings. It could be a true reading of a coil not to spec's as well as the accuracy of the iStick. Larger fluctuations would concern me.
I really only get the fluxuation when using the kanger subtank, when I put the tank on I notive the ohm display jumps around until it is screwed in firmly. Maybe it's making a wierd connection with the spring loaded connection on istick. If it jumps to high I unscrew it then screw it back in. Sometimes this takes a couple tries. But it will jump in between hits, even though it's firmly in place, so I have to be careful, keep an eye on it, or I'll get a nasty hit.
 

Alien Traveler

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I really only get the fluxuation when using the kanger subtank, when I put the tank on I notive the ohm display jumps around until it is screwed in firmly. Maybe it's making a wierd connection with the spring loaded connection on istick. If it jumps to high I unscrew it then screw it back in. Sometimes this takes a couple tries. But it will jump in between hits, even though it's firmly in place, so I have to be careful, keep an eye on it, or I'll get a nasty hit.
You may try to unscrew a bit (1/2 of turn) 510 connector on your atti (may be a bit short for a good contact).
 
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