I just got my new istick 20w and I'm having some problems. I'm really new to vw mods I've been strictly mech for over a year. so I put on my kayfun with a 1.4 ohm build and it maxes out at 12w any higher and I get a protection message. I put on my patriot at 1ohm and it won't fire at all. I cant figure out why it won't go any higher.
istick issues
- Thread starter soysos
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full charge? My 2 ohm cartos go a little above that.
Hoping word gets out that the 20 really isn't worth getting. The 30 is about the same price and a much better product.
Hoping word gets out that the 20 really isn't worth getting. The 30 is about the same price and a much better product.
If you are interested in seeing more about what is really going on with the iStick 20watt mod see a great post by fellow ECF member Peraspera: Wattage Ranges for Specific Ohm Builds Using iStick Specs
Susan-S nailed it with a link to the chart. The resistances being used are not capable of higher wattages on that device. As for the 1ohm build, the device is most likely reading it below 1 ohm and it's not going to fire with that low of a build. It wasn't designed for sub ohm builds.
Unfortunately I'm out of time. I'm leaving for a 10 trip in Italy on Thursday, starting with the Rome marathon. The whole reason I bought the istick was to reduce the stuff I would need to one device. I'm actually happy with the way it works with the kayfun. 6.5-7.5 watts is about perfect for me I'm just annoyed that it won't go as high as it says it will. The big issue I have is I don't want to be stuck with one flavor. I need to figure out a build to use a dropper at 15-20 watts.
I can't believe I'm saying this, since I have to remember how much I loved my 20W for a long time. But after using the 30W for awhile now....the 20 is sort of garbage. Honestly, the power regulation is just terrible. So many burnt hits, and the threads when screwing on tanks was so scary...I can't even imagine going back. I know it sucks, but an upgrade will make a world of difference in my book.
retired nailed it..I had the same problems with my 20s
the 30watt which is the primary used one now..addressed all those issues (the 20's would read a 1.2 ohm coil as a sub ohm, which the 30 will sub ohm, and the pin issues)
moral of this story just like IT stuff..wait for the upgrade before purchasing *lol*
the 30watt which is the primary used one now..addressed all those issues (the 20's would read a 1.2 ohm coil as a sub ohm, which the 30 will sub ohm, and the pin issues)
moral of this story just like IT stuff..wait for the upgrade before purchasing *lol*
only time ive had a "protection" issue, was when i was rebuilding an rda, and the coils read 1.3 before the cap was on - after the cap was on, it started to read 1.4, hit the fire button and protection kicked in - removed the top cap, and it jumped back down to 1.3
assuming it was because the coil was semi "shorting" on the top cap - check your builds.
between my istick 20 and 30, the 20 reads .1 lower then my istick 30. - and the threads on the istick20 werent "bad" but more "heavily over plated" with chrome.
assuming it was because the coil was semi "shorting" on the top cap - check your builds.
between my istick 20 and 30, the 20 reads .1 lower then my istick 30. - and the threads on the istick20 werent "bad" but more "heavily over plated" with chrome.
Get the resistance of the dripper up just a little, and it should work for you. The 20Ws terrible pwm had me vaping a Rose v2 at 9.2W instead of the 13.5W I use on an accurate mod so I guess I never noticed the cutoff. When I first got it I set it to 13.5 and burned myself, my coil and juice. I did manage to make it work for me for 6 months though, and now a newbie friend is using it. I now have a nice 50W.
I rebuilt the patriot at 1.3 and while it still won't hit 20w but it hits high enough. I'm getting a satisfying draw at 15.
personaly im finding this strange.
with my dark horse currently built at 1.1-1.2, im able to hit the 20W on my istick20 without any protections popping up.
something ain't right. my kayfun is hitting harder on the istick at 6.5 watts than it is on my mech at 11. I am certain the voltage reading is way off.
It is. It uses MEAN and not RMS. The original 20W had issues due to that.
The newer 30W and 50W use RMS, and delivery accurate voltage/wattage.
For the 20W, dial down
I've been using this setup all afternoon and as the battery drains the "protection" message pops up at lower and lower settings. I think this one was DOA. Looks like I'm taking the mechs, I just hope I can get my money back.
I am officially ------ off they definitely sold me a dead unit. Using it on the charger as a pass through it works perfectly, goes all the way to 20w with no issues and my volt meter reads exactly as stated. The second I pull the plug it can't break ten watts and the metered voltage is all ways low.
I've had weird issues with my 20w reporting low ohms or shorting, etc. It was because the pin is getting mashed down and causing issues. I pulled on oring off one of my spare drip tips and put it around the connector on the 20w iStick. I took a small screwdriver and lifted the pin from different angles. That oring lifted the connection a bit so it wouldn't push the pin all the way down. It's been working great ever since.
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