iTaste MVP v2 Owners Group

[pufZeppelin]

I was confused at first about this but I think I get it now , so the key is to put it on the charger and periodically check by pushing both buttons at once
and when it say's 4.1v take it off and use it until it reaches around 3.8 which will give you the best longevity ?

yep, you kinda get a sense for time frame
3.8 or so (lower you wait, longer to charge)
you can only 'check' once then it locks you out
so don't create another problem wearing out your charge port
then thats where the 'puff' counter comes into play...
it goes to 4.1v then to 4.2v - it is at 4.2 for a long time
that's the point where they call it "saturation" and the most stress
ever fill up a flat/low tire - soon as you put the air hose on it,
you see results NOW, watch tire fill up, then that last part
34psi-38psi-40psi etc (saturation)
so if I can catch it just when it switches to 4.2v, Great

Anybody who has an MVP that is a year old or longer and it still works like the day they bought it makes me pay attention to what they have to say.
vaping devices are a critical component to everyday living for most of us , I for one don't feel like dealing with one that's on life support where it can expire at any time .
I like to know the why's and how's of things and when I see an expired MVP in the obituaries (especially one that dies prematurely) I like to pay my respects and then read the autopsy results.
When gary said it also depends on luck and you may get a dud, well , myself and Mr. luck don't get along too well , I have lottery results to prove it lol.

seems I've read several, about failure lately
a bad batch of reguar/standard MVP's ?
not the deluxe models, shine and energy...

 

[donesmokin]

Isn't it funny that we're trying to eek out the most use from a $40 device when we used to drop more than that a week on a carton of cigs? Just sayin'... (FWIW, I am enjoying the conversation about device longevity because I, too, want to keep my little box alive as long as I can.)

My method on the battery charging issue. The MVP gets treated like all my other mods, vape it 'til it quits then plug it in. When I notice that it's charged, unplug it. My reasoning goes like this. I've got about a dozen mods cuz I went a little craze early on. My out and about VV plastic box is 2.5 years old and has two back ups. I really had to slow down on buying the latest and greatest because what I have wasn't breaking down fast enough to justify more mods. In three years I saved $5645 not smoking. Next mod that breaks is getting replaced with a Hana clone, unless something better comes along first.

 

[pufZeppelin]

I am actually getting to the point that my MVP 2 isn't continuing to satisfy me.
It's great for on the go if I'm busy but I may start carrying a mech on hand at all times with a couple different batts.

not sure the diff of 'on the go'...

maybe your tastebuds are-a-changing ??
do you make coils ? make DIY juice ?
in my world the MVP is plenty, and when vaping becomes deminished
I jump feet first into coils, juice, technique...

what worked before then fades away needs to be restored - IMO

in my world

You Just Have "Vapors Hobby Syndrome"

Dr Puf
​

 

[gerrymi]

yes, the kanger MT3S / T3S heads are unique & the same
my experience, they fit in all kanger bcc (single) and therefore was the reason
it was all I bought, and have an ample supply... (for rebuilding)

mini T3S, EVOD, T3S, MT3S are all polycarbonate (plastic) tanks
don't believe the metal jacket has any benefit other than
weight and restricted view and that's why I prefer the mini T3S and big T3S

Thanx!!!

As a newbie I haven't gotten into rebuilding heads (yet)...dry-burning them (with some re-wicking) is my latest "big step". I like my T3S heads for this (whereas you can't dry-burn the Aspire BDC's I have because it destroys their rubber grommet).

I figured I'd consider putting up with the weight and restricted view of the MT3S if they were for tank-crackers...but if they're polycarbonate too then I'll happily stick with my (big) T3S's.

 

[Sankara]

Okay pretty much an update about an older post of my. I recoiled my KF 3.1 (clone) with 28 gauge (30mm) about 15 turns i think, got 1.7 ohm out of it. It works GREAT now on the MVP! It almost hits as hard as it would with a 1.2 / 1.3 ohm coil on the nemesis!

So in other words, if you have a KF, want it to work on the MVP, make a coil of AT LEAST 1.6 ~ 1.7, probably preferred 1.8 to 2.0. I think that would be a very nice range. Also i have to admit, i only like it when vaping on 11 watts...8 just isn't cutting it for me. Maybe a higher OHM will do the trick, since im missing TH with 8 watts. With the nemesis + kick on 12 watt, the TH is a bit too much though (still i like it), that is with a 1.2 ohm in it. With 1.7 ohm on the MVP on 11 watts, its pretty much perfect.

That being said, i STILL prefer a Carto tank with a DC (1.3 ~ 1.5) carto with my MVP. TH is better, taste is great. KF seems to give more vape and a 'hotter' vape but just not the same TH. I really stepped away from my PT2 with that, it actually is collecting dust atm. Have recoiled it, took a few vapes but it felt like a set back compared to the KF and X8 tank with a DC cartomizer (smoketech i believe). Still KF CAN be great on the MVP, just go 1.7 or above. Happy vaping guys!

EDIT: KF does carry more taste then a carto btw, but it REALLY depends on the liquid for it to work out good. Some liquids taste better actually when flavor is a bit muted (like Torque from Halo), while others taste better with a full flavor (like Boba's Bounty). Just my 2 cent here! Taste is always subjective of course.

 

[pufZeppelin]

Thanx!!!

As a newbie I haven't gotten into rebuilding heads (yet)...dry-burning them (with some re-wicking) is my latest "big step". I like my T3S heads for this (whereas you can't dry-burn the Aspire BDC's I have because it destroys their rubber grommet).

I figured I'd consider putting up with the weight and restricted view of the MT3S if they were for tank-crackers...but if they're polycarbonate too then I'll happily stick with my (big) T3S's.

yeah, I just don't get the $$ effect of the dual coil (bdc), like to improve, but it just doesn't

a clean black MT3S sure looks good on a black MVP

like it was made for/with it

 

[kathi17]

i finally got my kayfun 3.1 clone and my maraxus mod clone!

View attachment 334945

it looks killer (literally, it looks like a klingon war blade or something)...

but you kayfun believers are right... "welcome to flavor country" indeed!

i built my first coil with 28g kanthar a1 around a 3/32 drill bit... about 9 wraps. came out to 1.69 ohms... then i wicked with cotton...

BOOM. suddenly i'm hitting this thing, the flavor is intense, fat storm clouds are flying around the room.. amazing.

i am a KAYFUN beliver for sure! ordering a KFL+ clone today i think... just too awesome! makes my aerotank seem weak and tasteless in comparison!

Sometimes I put my KFL + clone on my Maraxus clone too. The KFL + is wonderful! Now I need the Kayfun 3.1 so it doesn't get lonesome!

 

[gerrymi]

I'm into "if cheap works" too ! !

when I seen these , oh so long ago, I wanted them but just
procrastinated for so long
- DV BCC Clearomizer
- Smoktech ARO, Nova, Tumbler, RBC
- RBC Clearomizers

I've since bought SMOK RBC & EBC and love them
cheap, functional - I'm using an RBC now with a cotton kanger bcc in it
you can find them around for 2.49 & 2.95...

Checked your 3 links...and they do look interesting...but...their capacities are only 1.3ml-1.6ml.

Have you run across anything (cheap) like these with a larger capacity (eg. 2.8ml or higher)?

 

[PaulBHC]

I bought several of the Kumiho cheap clearos from Desert Vapes and one large one (that I am using right now). The coils look like Kangers and are as easy to rebuild. The plastic is starting to crack at the threads but not done yet. For $3 I can't complain.

 

[Keirster]

Okay pretty much an update about an older post of my. I recoiled my KF 3.1 (clone) with 28 gauge (30mm) about 15 turns i think, got 1.7 ohm out of it. It works GREAT now on the MVP! It almost hits as hard as it would with a 1.2 / 1.3 ohm coil on the nemesis!

So in other words, if you have a KF, want it to work on the MVP, make a coil of AT LEAST 1.6 ~ 1.7, probably preferred 1.8 to 2.0. I think that would be a very nice range. Also i have to admit, i only like it when vaping on 11 watts...8 just isn't cutting it for me. Maybe a higher OHM will do the trick, since im missing TH with 8 watts. With the nemesis + kick on 12 watt, the TH is a bit too much though (still i like it), that is with a 1.2 ohm in it. With 1.7 ohm on the MVP on 11 watts, its pretty much perfect.

That being said, i STILL prefer a Carto tank with a DC (1.3 ~ 1.5) carto with my MVP. TH is better, taste is great. KF seems to give more vape and a 'hotter' vape but just not the same TH. I really stepped away from my PT2 with that, it actually is collecting dust atm. Have recoiled it, took a few vapes but it felt like a set back compared to the KF and X8 tank with a DC cartomizer (smoketech i believe). Still KF CAN be great on the MVP, just go 1.7 or above. Happy vaping guys!

EDIT: KF does carry more taste then a carto btw, but it REALLY depends on the liquid for it to work out good. Some liquids taste better actually when flavor is a bit muted (like Torque from Halo), while others taste better with a full flavor (like Boba's Bounty). Just my 2 cent here! Taste is always subjective of course.

We are all different Sankara. I don't like the TH as much as other vapors, so I like heavier VG mixes ( which also increases vapor and decreases TH ). I am 5 weeks on my first KFL coil at 1.3ohms and this thing is a cloud creator. I dont use watts, I like to dial my topper in with voltage and have mine set at 3.6 on the MVP. I know others that say the KFL works better on a mech, I find the vapor is too hot on my Turtleship V2 mech, so I prefer to use it on my MVP.

If this forum had taught me one thing...We all like to do it a little different, and that is fine by me.

Good luck and keep us posted on your discoveries...you never know who they will help.

 

[CountBoredom]

Thanx!!!

As a newbie I haven't gotten into rebuilding heads (yet)...dry-burning them (with some re-wicking) is my latest "big step". I like my T3S heads for this (whereas you can't dry-burn the Aspire BDC's I have because it destroys their rubber grommet).

I figured I'd consider putting up with the weight and restricted view of the MT3S if they were for tank-crackers...but if they're polycarbonate too then I'll happily stick with my (big) T3S's.

The one benefit of the metal sheath around the MT3S (and the Evod) is that it does help protect against drops. I picked up some Evod Glass tanks a couple of weeks ago to start replacing some of my MT3S's that had succumbed to tank crackers. With the dual coil, they do eat through juice, but I have to say that I like them a lot better than the original Evod. One of these days, I'll have to pick up a PT2 Mini base and see if I can get a single coil to run in one.

And, yes, a black MT3S does look good on a black MVP--got one on mine right now, as a matter of fact.

 

[herb]

Perhaps...if more of us became ECF "Supporting Members"...(I mean we're talking only $2 a month)...there would be less wonkiness, shut-down snafus, technical glitches, etc.???

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/payments.php




Does the MT3S use the same heads as the T3S?

Does the "surrounding" metal on the MT3S make it safe to use with tank-cracking jooses?



This one?

$59.45 E-LVT Variable Voltage/Wattage APV Mod - 3-6V / 3-15W / power bank / LED flashlight / water resistant / anti-shock at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Nope , i believe it has the word "super" in the name . I never liked the " all in one " devices with flashlights and other bells and whistles , imo they tend to malfunction more readily and none of the extras are top shelf , usually just mediocre at best .

Give me simplicity and whatever you do , do it great .

 

[herb]

yep, you kinda get a sense for time frame
3.8 or so (lower you wait, longer to charge)
you can only 'check' once then it locks you out
so don't create another problem wearing out your charge port
then thats where the 'puff' counter comes into play...
it goes to 4.1v then to 4.2v - it is at 4.2 for a long time
that's the point where they call it "saturation" and the most stress
ever fill up a flat/low tire - soon as you put the air hose on it,
you see results NOW, watch tire fill up, then that last part
34psi-38psi-40psi etc (saturation)
so if I can catch it just when it switches to 4.2v, Great






seems I've read several, about failure lately
a bad batch of reguar/standard MVP's ?
not the deluxe models, shine and energy...

Some more questions Puff if you don't mind ( if you do mind i'll just piss off and try you later) . When you first plug it into charge at what point do you check it's voltage ?

Thank you, thank you oh great one

 

[herb]

My method on the battery charging issue. The MVP gets treated like all my other mods, vape it 'til it quits then plug it in. When I notice that it's charged, unplug it. My reasoning goes like this. I've got about a dozen mods cuz I went a little craze early on. My out and about VV plastic box is 2.5 years old and has two back ups. I really had to slow down on buying the latest and greatest because what I have wasn't breaking down fast enough to justify more mods. In three years I saved $5645 not smoking. Next mod that breaks is getting replaced with a Hana clone, unless something better comes along first.

This is just great , just when i thought i had figured it out you post exactly the way i was charging it but was told it's not the correct way .

The person who convinced me it was not the proper way to charge was mostly Puff , now thats a real problem for me because i see Puff "liked " your post , i look at it like since Puff liked your post he must agree with your methods , iv'e had it , it's hopeless , can't take it much longer.

 

[sushigirl]

I'm into "if cheap works" too ! !

when I seen these , oh so long ago, I wanted them but just
procrastinated for so long
- DV BCC Clearomizer

I like these bc it says they take Kanger replacement heads. I like the idea of having most of my toppers all take the same heads so I don't have to figure out what goes with what. I have a lot of them as well as spare parts (grommets etc.) and wire to recoil. Simplicity!

Checked your 3 links...and they do look interesting...but...their capacities are only 1.3ml-1.6ml.

Have you run across anything (cheap) like these with a larger capacity (eg. 2.8ml or higher)?

I've seen these 3.5ml ones on FT for $4, haven't tried them.

 

[PaulBHC]

Did you Kanger BCC lovers see that Lightning Vapes has disassembled coils for 10/$10? and other parts as well? 15% off coupon on facebook too.

 

[Stringplucker]

yes, the kanger MT3S / T3S heads are unique & the same
my experience, they fit in all kanger bcc (single) and therefore was the reason
it was all I bought, and have an ample supply... (for rebuilding)

mini T3S, EVOD, T3S, MT3S are all polycarbonate (plastic) tanks
don't believe the metal jacket has any benefit other than
weight and restricted view and that's why I prefer the mini T3S and big T3S

- Kanger mini T3S clearomizer

- Kanger T3S clearomizer

The mini would be perfect for my eGo MEGA 2200mAh battery. It's short, fat, and easy to conceal when needed.

 

[Stringplucker]

Checked your 3 links...and they do look interesting...but...their capacities are only 1.3ml-1.6ml.

Have you run across anything (cheap) like these with a larger capacity (eg. 2.8ml or higher)?

There's a shop north of you in Lower Burrell that has T3s clones for a buck a piece. I sent you a PM on them.

 

[clnire]

Did you Kanger BCC lovers see that Lightning Vapes has disassembled coils for 10/$10? and other parts as well? 15% off coupon on facebook too.

Yes I think I posted the other day. 15% vaporjoes15. I have all parts. I like having spare parts cuz I tend to be fumble fingered and loose those little parts like the silicon top cup and the little positive pin! Now I won't loose any because I have spares!

 

[pufZeppelin]

Some more questions Puff if you don't mind ( if you do mind i'll just piss off and try you later) .
When you first plug it into charge at what point do you check it's voltage ?

depends on how far you let it discharge
from yellow to full about 4hrs
so before yellow to almost full, 2-2.5hrs ???

This is just great , just when i thought i had figured it out you post exactly the way i was charging it but was told it's not the correct way .

The person who convinced me it was not the proper way to charge was mostly Puff , now thats a real problem for me because i see Puff "liked " your post , i look at it like since Puff liked your post he must agree with your methods , iv'e had it , it's hopeless , can't take it much longer.

right way, wrong way, my way...

Innokin sez how to charge it (till light goes out for full charge)
they would know, it's their product
but maybe to add some life expectancy...

like most manufacturers, Innokin does a good job
of safety features (over charge, low dis charge cut offs)
I TRY to stop my devices from charging to the last drop
but it doesn't happen all the time...

if I can stop them at 4.1v , 6 out of 10 charge times, then a
device is just that much farther ahead in the game of Life...
(if the therory is true)

if not, the safety features kick in...