iTaste MVP v2 Owners Group

[pufZeppelin]

Been having a ton of problems getting my Russian 91% to work without burning the wick today.
This is a freshly wound 30 guage 7 wraps 1.5ohm coil with a new cotton wick.
Does this look right to you?
View attachment 363883
Any suggestions welcome.
Im running the MVP2 at 8.5watts, giving it 15 minutes to soak, prepriming it, etc.
This is like the 4th wick Ive made and have tried to use less wick so I dont starve the coil.

**EDIT** 2 great hits.. burnt again. With the coil/wick job shown above.

tell ya what, that looks text book-very nice...

zooming in looks to me like your coil ID is 2mm and wick is 1.5mm ?
can’t say for sure, if that’s the case, if it would even make a diff…
est: my coil is 2mm, my wick is 2.2mm

how about pulling bubbles ?
do you regulate the internal press by holding/blocking
the air intake, suck on it and watch if bubbles rise ?
I do that to mine all the time, even to the point of making it flood
(juice running out the air hole)
sometimes (on mine) I sense a dry hit starting, hold my air hole, suck,
bloop-bloop (bubble rise), it corrects the internal atmosphere and I go on my way…

other than that, not sure what to tell ya…

keep us informed

 

[jandry]

tell ya what, that looks text book-very nice...

zooming in looks to me like your coil ID is 2mm and wick is 1.5mm ?
can’t say for sure, if that’s the case, if it would even make a diff…
est: my coil is 2mm, my wick is 2.2mm

how about pulling bubbles ?
do you regulate the internal press by holding/blocking
the air intake, suck on it and watch if bubbles rise ?
I do that to mine all the time, even to the point of making it flood
(juice running out the air hole)
sometimes (on mine) I sense a dry hit starting, hold my air hole, suck,
bloop-bloop (bubble rise), it corrects the internal atmosphere and I go on my way…

other than that, not sure what to tell ya…

keep us informed

Thank you very much- that helped a lot. When I built my coils/wick, I turned the airflow down and chiefed on them a bit. The one coil/wick that worked right I must have totally by accident got the pressure right inside.

Once you mentioned that, I blocked the air hole off and sucked a bit- no bubbles. Then I sucked really hard and it started gurgling- air bubbles up to the top. I did it 3 or 4 more times which I think was too much since I flooded it pretty bad. I then just blew in the drip tip to get juice out of the air hole as you mentioned above, and now its hitting great again

A few questions for you:
1) How many bloop-bloops do you shoot for after a new build?
2) After you hit your desired bloop count, do you then blow the airhole out via blowing in the drip tip?
3) Will this happen periodically throughout a tank just requiring a simple repeat of the process?

Again thanks for your help! I was getting frustrated. After having done 4 rewicks, I put the Protank on and resigned to give up for the night. All seems fine with it now..

**EDIT** FYI Im not really sure in mm what my setup is. I use a 1/16th drillbit to wrap the coil and then just eyeball/feel-out how much cotton to use for the wick.

 

[sando7]

Hi Sando , i would be very interested in what recipes you have come up with , what have you tried to duplicate ? I must of missed when you talked about it , since i am just starting to do my own i need all the help i can get .

herb when starting out stick with single flavors, no complications needed yet.....get the basic's down then go from there, that would be my advise.....i can hook you up when you get down the road a bit.

 

[sando7]

If your into the wacky stuff your home State of Kentucky is where it's at , might have to smoke it in either Colorado or Washington State though.[/QUOTE]

yep it's everywhere during the summer months you gotta be carefull where you go in the woods.....but in my case i cannot afford any Felonies or prision time, so it's just not worth it ....."just say no"

 

[Susaz]

if i lived where you do i wouldn't be smoking tobacco, would prob be smoking that wacky hill grown stuff instead

That's not here, it's across the pond in Uruguay. Close, but we're not allowed anywhere near the stuff. They hate us. Highly forbidden here everywhere...

 

[Susaz]

Some like the i30, some don't. I use the i30 almost exclusively and it's my fav out of piles I've tried.. The only thing I can think of is it ran too low and burnt the wick. Which means your only choice is to change the coil.

I've had a great one (passed it on to my vet a few months ago) and bought another one that is simply awful. I find the higher the ohms the better it vapes, so I'm getting me some 2.5 ohm heads next time.

 

[Susaz]

Been having a ton of problems getting my Russian 91% to work without burning the wick today. This is a freshly wound 30 guage 7 wraps 1.5ohm coil with a new cotton wick. Does this look right to you?

View attachment 363883

Any suggestions welcome. Im running the MVP2 at 8.5watts, giving it 15 minutes to soak, prepriming it, etc. This is like the 4th wick Ive made and have tried to use less wick so I dont starve the coil.

**EDIT** 2 great hits.. burnt again. With the coil/wick job shown above.

That's exactly my same build with the exception that mine isn't a microcoil but rather wound around silica. I usually make the bow build, make sure that both bows bent are no longer than the deck, put in the chimney and put the silica around the coil without touching. Have you tried removing some of the cotton? Remember the juice slots have to be free to let juice flow inside. To me it's too low on the juice slots. Remove some and try again. Also remember it's better it's snug around the coil, better contact with the cotton and the juice. Burnt means only not enough juice gets in...

I rarely see bubbles rise, I tried hard but no, only every once in a while... No dry hits, no burnt taste, but when I remove the chimney the points of the silica bow look burned. I'll take a picture when I finish this tank. No gurgling either.

 

[jandry]

That's exactly my same build with the exception that mine isn't a microcoil but rather wound around silica. I usually make the bow build, make sure that both bows bent are no longer than the deck, put in the chimney and put the silica around the coil without touching. Have you tried removing some of the cotton? Remember the juice slots have to be free to let juice flow inside. To me it's too low on the juice slots. Remove some and try again. Also remember it's better it's snug around the coil, better contact with the cotton and the juice. Burnt means only not enough juice gets in...

I rarely see bubbles rise, I tried hard but no, only every once in a while... No dry hits, no burnt taste, but when I remove the chimney the points of the silica bow look burned. I'll take a picture when I finish this tank. No gurgling either.

Excellent info as well thanks. After PufZeppelin's advice, I managed to get the setup you see above working well. Im a perfectionist so of course I had to pull it all apart and wind the coil I thought would be perfect. Thanks to PufZeppelin I now really understand what it looks like inside primed, so im comfortable with less cotton. As per your advice ill go even less and have it barely touching the deck. I have a wick in it now that looks almost exactly like the above and its working, so about 2 tanks from now when I rewick, ill do it as you say.

I pull the cotton through where its a little too stiff, then pull it back and forth until its snug but not tight, and this results in a bow-tie like result looking at it from the top. That picture doesnt really illustrate it, but its there. Ill try to flay it a little more when I rewick.

The Russian is in another league from the Protank 2, but I will say the wicking seems a lot more exacting. I think ill stick with single microcoils awhile until I have expenses down (ive been wasting way too much juice, cotton, wire, buying new attys, etc). Then im prolly gonna shoot for some dual coil designs.

Ill post pics of them here for you guys to give opinions on

 

[donesmokin]

Been having a ton of problems getting my Russian 91% to work without burning the wick today. This is a freshly wound 30 guage 7 wraps 1.5ohm coil with a new cotton wick. Does this look right to you?

View attachment 363883

Any suggestions welcome. Im running the MVP2 at 8.5watts, giving it 15 minutes to soak, prepriming it, etc. This is like the 4th wick Ive made and have tried to use less wick so I dont starve the coil.

**EDIT** 2 great hits.. burnt again. With the coil/wick job shown above.

Sure looks like it would work OK. If anything I would have thought it would flood from the pic. Following puf's instructions you got a lot of bubbles so the juice channels must have been obstructed. Guessing the cotton moved around once you got it sealed up and couldn't see what was going on anymore. Rayon is my new latest and greatest weapon in the war on dry hits. I can send you a sample if you like.

$5.12 Spare Parts for Kayfun v3.1 Atomizer - PMMA at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

$1.10 Replacement Polycarbonate Tank for Kayfun 3.1 / Kayfun Lite - translucent at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

What is this tank on the right?

$18.09 Russian 91% Styled Rebuildable Atomizer Kit (4.5mL) - foggy version at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.10 Replacement Polycarbonate Tank for Kayfun 3.1 / Kayfun Lite - translucent at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[Midniteoyl]

I use more cotton than that...

 

[jandry]

Well, im gonna have to stop with the Russian for awhile. Only got about 3 hours of sleep because I was bound and determined to fix what I had wrong, but no joy. Gonna write this before I start the day...

I know the coil itself is fine- lights up uniform across the entire coil. The MVP very clearly reads 1.6 ohms. I submerged the base in water and used compressed air to verify that the path between the airhole and hole under coil is unobstructed. I tried screwing the airflow control in where it was a very tight draw (to increase vacuum). Ive verified the system has a good seal- there is an oring where the chimney meets the top cap, the orings in the drip tip seat well, the orings where all the tank pieces come together are fine. I dont have leaking issues at all which suggests the orings are good, and if they were kinda bad I wouldnt be able to burp it as I mention below.

I have tried with the cotton flayed flat against the tower right at the deck. I tried with the cotton in a round shape at the deck. I read a thread where a guy swore the wick needed to be placed right by but not over the juice channels, so I tried that. I read another thread where a guy mentioned that lowering the coil reduces airflow and increases vacuum on the juice channels so I did that. I tried a ton of cotton, very little cotton, and something in between. Ive tried completely filling it, Ive tried barely filling it, and Ive tried filling it to where the juice is halfway on the clear plastic section.

To top it all off, Im running 60%pg/40%vg juice- the juice should easily wick with any one of my configurations.

Ive let it sit for 10 minutes after a rewick (and thats with the wicks presoaked). Same result every time. Take about 10 puffs with each one getting progressively lighter (worse). No air bubbles seem to be headed towards the top which seems strange. Then a dry hit. Burp it as per PufZeppelin's recommendation and the next few hits are great, then it gets worse, then dry hit. Rinse repeat.

Could I have gotten a defective one? It seems so simple I cant see how anything could possibly be wrong with it. It must be something im doing wrong

Ive had very little issue with rewiring and rewicking the Protank 2 coils though its a completely different design. Back to vaping on the Protank 2 for now At least the protank gives me a great vape

 

[DingerCPA]

Withdrewandi, just to show you how subjective this whole deal is, the Aerotank Mega has been the biggest disappointment for me. It produces alright vapor, but it removes the flavor to the point its almost flavorless.

Coincidentally, the Protank 2 with the Aerotank 1's adjustable airflow control is my most used tank and I love it. I just recently got a Russian 91% RBA which on my second coil/wick job was the best experience vaping Ive ever had; Ive spent a good part of today (after foolishly rewicking to try a new juice) burning wicks and swearing at it. The Protank 2 is easier for me at this point- though with thin juices it can be tricky to get the right wicking balance between too tight a draw and flooding.

Ive wanted to try the Aspire as many people give it praise, but ive also heard of many coils being bad straight out of the pack. At the time I avoided it for that reason, though now since I wire my own coils I have no reason to.

Bottom line is this is all impossibly subjective. I think if you go Aspire or Kanger, your chances are pretty good at being pleased.

I personally suggest the Protank 2 with an adjustable airflow base. Fits the MVP size wise, the coil heads are replaceable, if you decide to start wiring coils you can, its fully rebuildable, and it vapes great. YMMV IMHO and all that

Don't have the Aerotank or a full-size Protank2, but I do have the mini PT2 and some kayfun clones (lite, 2 minis, 3.1ES) Jandry, I'm so with you on "burning wicks and swearing at it"

Truthfully, I'm pretty happy with rebuilt heads on my EVOD tanks - I get good flavor and enough vapor to amuse me.

+1 on "impossibly subjective". I guess part of the "quest" is to find what is best for onesself

Enjoy the

 

[Xtro]

The screws that hold the top and bottom on are torx. Not sure what size. If they look like rivets, they are probably stripped out.

I haven't tried any tools on them yet, so I think they are rivets. Will try and post a pic when I can.

Sounds like a classic case of the "firing" pin connector slipped down out of reach of the topper.

Just pull it up. tweezers, small nail, toothpick... whatever. It can come up quite a bit. If you want a more permanent fix, just slide an o-ring under it so it won't slide down as far anymore.

That used to be the problem of the pin dropping and I have pulled it up with a precision screwdriver, and eventually slid an O ring over the centre pin, which kept it working for a while.

 

[DingerCPA]

Jandry, don't know if this will help much or not, but I've been finding that the 1/16" bit might be a touch too small for my kayfun decks. I have used one of the mini screwdrivers (NO idea what diameter) for a slightly larger coil. I've snaked the cotton like RipTripper has shown in his video; I've snipped the ends flush with the deck (as you show in your picture); I've done "bunny ears" and then tucked the primed wick back into the chimney base. My 3.1ES has BY FAR the best configuration. It's very airy, though, and it seems like I'm guzzling juice in that one (it's about 2.0Ω, and I've run everywhere from 8.0-10.0 W on that bad boy.) I've tried donesmokin's rayon and my normal cotton.

I also try to make sure there's some room between the coil and the air hole on the deck. Basically pry up the coil and make sure I can fit the mini flat-head screwdriver between the coil and the airhole on the deck. I had one of my minis rocking my world (absolutely no vacuum issues) and then I had to rewick it Now it bites, and about every 4-5 hits, I have to repressurize it....

When they RBAs work, they're AWESOME. When they don't, ya wanna just throw 'em.....

Thank god for spare tanks, so at least I can keep vaping while I'm cussing a blue streak

We'll get there!

:edit: One other trick someone else taught me here - if you have to "dump juice", get an empty bottle and unscrew the base. This releases the vacuum and allows the juice to flow out the tip into the bottle. I've saved at least 1/2 tank each time I've had to futz with the wicking.

 

[herb]

Whenever I'm discussing vaping with (smoking) friends the question always come up about "How much money have you saved?".

I always come back with "Well...I know how much I've not spent on analogs (my banner). And I have all the charges on my CC statements I've spent on vaping.

But vaping is SO much more pleasant!!! For someone who (for whatever the reason) really likes to inhale some "smoke"...exhale some "smoke"...and get a hit of nicotine...the taste(s) and smell are much more preferable than analogs! And I get only the nicotine (not the 2,999 other chemicals). And my breath, clothes, car and apartment smell much better. And the windows in my car and apartment now stay crystal clear. And I don't get burns in my clothes, bedspreads and furniture. And I can now go places like NO-SMOKING restaurants, NO-SMOKING airports and NO-SMOKING friend's homes. And I feel MUCH better and can walk up hills (that used to make me short of breath) with NO problem.

So...I've never actually wasted the time to deduct the costs of vaping from the money saved from analogs because it's NOT IMPORTANT! Even if I spend more $'s on vaping than analogs...I'll never go back to analogs!!!"







pufZeppelin...Thanx for the info (and links) for the T3S ribbon coils and for the !!MVP2 O-Rings! (And for the Hypertank 2...Pyrex, 5ml.,T3S coil...you linked to about 100 pages ago!)

Puff recommending o rings , your kidding , Puff doesn't do o rings lol.

This has probably been asked a million times but thought I would ask it again lol I am currently using the iclear 30 tank that came with my MVP but I ain't happy with it it's so hit and miss I have had gurgling from it then a few days of lovely taste lovely vapour and then today it's started giving me horrible burnt flavour in my mouth!! So my question is what tank are you guys using or what would you recommend ??? I don't want to start building my own coils and wicks I really don't have the knowledge to do it or know what I am doing

Go to You Tube and watch a video on how to clean and dry burn the I30 , it's very easy , no coil building necessary. Whenever i got gurgling or the top area fogged up i cleaned, dry burned and refiiled that fixed all the issues.

Keep juice level at the top mark on the tank , do not let juice get in the middle rubber hole (use needle tip refill to avoid it) and don't go above 10 watts and you should be good with the I30.

Slow deep suction work best , don't blow out your eye sockets , too much pressure while trying to hit it usually causes issues.

 

[herb]

It's been a slow and unpleasant recovery sorry to say. I think I'm starting to turn the corner finally. Hoping to be back to "normal" in another couple weeks.

I built my newest Russian and all seems well. I put the extra o-rings from it into the Magma then put the center section of a carto .... plug in the air hole I'm not using. Seems to have cured a lot of the Magma's leaking problem.

View attachment 363838





If your in the market for a new tank I'd say look into the Nautilus mini. My brother loves his. I bought a full size and put the vertical coil head in it which seems to be working pretty darn good too.

The Aspire Nautilus Mini is HEAVENLY - YouTube

Sorry to hear your recovery is slower than expected , will keep you in my prayers pal . I am thinking of a Magma clone , seems it's great for taste . On another note i have noticed the BVC is hit and miss , got a few good ones and one bad one .

Seems it needs to be broken in and excels when using a little higher wattage than typically found with the regular Nautilus coils.

 

[herb]

Well, im gonna have to stop with the Russian for awhile. Only got about 3 hours of sleep because I was bound and determined to fix what I had wrong, but no joy. Gonna write this before I start the day...

I know the coil itself is fine- lights up uniform across the entire coil. The MVP very clearly reads 1.6 ohms. I submerged the base in water and used compressed air to verify that the path between the airhole and hole under coil is unobstructed. I tried screwing the airflow control in where it was a very tight draw (to increase vacuum). Ive verified the system has a good seal- there is an oring where the chimney meets the top cap, the orings in the drip tip seat well, the orings where all the tank pieces come together are fine. I dont have leaking issues at all which suggests the orings are good, and if they were kinda bad I wouldnt be able to burp it as I mention below.

I have tried with the cotton flayed flat against the tower right at the deck. I tried with the cotton in a round shape at the deck. I read a thread where a guy swore the wick needed to be placed right by but not over the juice channels, so I tried that. I read another thread where a guy mentioned that lowering the coil reduces airflow and increases vacuum on the juice channels so I did that. I tried a ton of cotton, very little cotton, and something in between. Ive tried completely filling it, Ive tried barely filling it, and Ive tried filling it to where the juice is halfway on the clear plastic section.

To top it all off, Im running 60%pg/40%vg juice- the juice should easily wick with any one of my configurations.

Ive let it sit for 10 minutes after a rewick (and thats with the wicks presoaked). Same result every time. Take about 10 puffs with each one getting progressively lighter (worse). No air bubbles seem to be headed towards the top which seems strange. Then a dry hit. Burp it as per PufZeppelin's recommendation and the next few hits are great, then it gets worse, then dry hit. Rinse repeat.

Could I have gotten a defective one? It seems so simple I cant see how anything could possibly be wrong with it. It must be something im doing wrong

Ive had very little issue with rewiring and rewicking the Protank 2 coils though its a completely different design. Back to vaping on the Protank 2 for now At least the protank gives me a great vape

I had issues with my Kayfun at first , to be honest your build looks fine and should work . Cotton expands so if it's overly snug in the coil when your setting it up dry hits will likely be a result once juice expands it further. The biggest change for me with the Kayfun was when i really opened up the airflow , wow what a difference it makes , like night and day .

 

[herb]

[

I haven't tried any tools on them yet, so I think they are rivets. Will try and post a pic when I can.


That used to be the problem of the pin dropping and I have pulled it up with a precision screwdriver, and eventually slid an O ring over the centre pin, which kept it working for a while.

They are not rivets , they are torx , small though .

Jandry, don't know if this will help much or not, but I've been finding that the 1/16" bit might be a touch too small for my kayfun decks. I have used one of the mini screwdrivers (NO idea what diameter) for a slightly larger coil. I've snaked the cotton like RipTripper has shown in his video; I've snipped the ends flush with the deck (as you show in your picture); I've done "bunny ears" and then tucked the primed wick back into the chimney base. My 3.1ES has BY FAR the best configuration. It's very airy, though, and it seems like I'm guzzling juice in that one (it's about 2.0Ω, and I've run everywhere from 8.0-10.0 W on that bad boy.) I've tried donesmokin's rayon and my normal cotton.

I also try to make sure there's some room between the coil and the air hole on the deck. Basically pry up the coil and make sure I can fit the mini flat-head screwdriver between the coil and the airhole on the deck. I had one of my minis rocking my world (absolutely no vacuum issues) and then I had to rewick it Now it bites, and about every 4-5 hits, I have to repressurize it....

When they RBAs work, they're AWESOME. When they don't, ya wanna just throw 'em.....

Thank god for spare tanks, so at least I can keep vaping while I'm cussing a blue streak

We'll get there!

:edit: One other trick someone else taught me here - if you have to "dump juice", get an empty bottle and unscrew the base. This releases the vacuum and allows the juice to flow out the tip into the bottle. I've saved at least 1/2 tank each time I've had to futz with the wicking.

Actually a 1/16th size coil wrapped with 28 gauge seems to be perfection for my Kayfun , performs great and i never get dry hits . Regarding airflow , i give my coils more room than just a flat head screwdriver , i always have them raised up about a quarter inch off the deck since cotton expands and will block airflow if i sit the coil lower .

I have experimented till the cows come home and this works for me so thats what i stick with lol. The coil height is separate from the air flow adjustment screw , if i don't open that up the kayfun performs terribly so a higher placed coil with open airflow is key for me.

 

[Joe Gordon]

Hello vape friends, i've decided to rebuild my cloupor cana and since this is my home thread would anyone know where to get a evoled or good clone dna 30 chip for $50 or less? Im looking at Madvapes who have one for $50. but comes with the mirco usb charging board which mine is good still. but could be good to have a back up.? Thanks in advance,

 

[DingerCPA]

[
Actually a 1/16th size coil wrapped with 28 gauge seems to be perfection for my Kayfun , performs great and i never get dry hits . Regarding airflow , i give my coils more room than just a flat head screwdriver , i always have them raised up about a quarter inch off the deck since cotton expands and will block airflow if i sit the coil lower .

I have experimented till the cows come home and this works for me so thats what i stick with lol. The coil height is separate from the air flow adjustment screw , if i don't open that up the kayfun performs terribly so a higher placed coil with open airflow is key for me.

Herb, what kind of resistance are you getting? I've tried 28g wire, and it takes too long for me to heat up (but maybe that's part of my problem?) I've tried 32g and 30g. Thirty seems to be my preference (not to mention that I have 98% of a 100' spool left )