Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
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Yes but when do you lock it, if I use a cold .28 coil (measured with my dmm and other mods) the Vt reads for example .30 or .32, I don't lock it at that moment because when I wait for 15-30 without using it the reading change to .28 and that's the moment I use the lock.
It's not very reliable.
I wouldn't give that video much consideration because he's using dual coils. The board averages the resistance it sees, so there's no telling what the temp actually is. He should've tested with one coil. (I'm not saying I don't use dual-coils in Temp mode, but there's a lot less room for error, and I don't expect accurate temp readings with duals)
There's lots of burn test out there, so there should be lots of videos. I'll have to look when I get time.
There's lots of burn test out there, so there should be lots of videos. I'll have to look when I get time.
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It will still adjust down when locked, I've noticed, but won't go back up. Ok yeah, it sounded like you were vaping it unlocked vs just letting it sit. My bad. A lot of people that use the subtank ni200 coils initially read .14/.15, but then drops about .02...even when locked
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At some point I may start locking it, but hopefully I won't have to. Right now I'm running it unlocked to see how it behaves.
I will add this: My heavily modified-extremely consistent-authentic Kayfun4 is rock-solid on my eVic...the Mega tends to wonder around a bit
That's another strange thing why does it not read the right ohm reading at first only after some time it shows the right ohms, It's settleling down after some time without use.
I cannot put my finger on it, I'm talking about self made cold coils, the atty I use makes no difference, I don't use pre-made coils btw.
I cannot put my finger on it, I'm talking about self made cold coils, the atty I use makes no difference, I don't use pre-made coils btw.
Lock it at the room temp, and unlock it when switching attys guys! Seems like lots of people are having those issues, but for me it works great since i read the user manual 
When it comes to temperature, i guess its a big factor what kind of atty you are using. I run my lemo @250-260'C, but on derringer 210-220 is more than enough. Not sure why, but i've read somewhere before, that tanks require higher temps. Also, one german utuber tested the temps on the coil, and it looked spot on.
When it comes to temperature, i guess its a big factor what kind of atty you are using. I run my lemo @250-260'C, but on derringer 210-220 is more than enough. Not sure why, but i've read somewhere before, that tanks require higher temps. Also, one german utuber tested the temps on the coil, and it looked spot on.
Lock it at the room temp, and unlock it when switching attys guys! Seems like lots of people are having those issues, but for me it works great since i read the user manual
When it comes to temperature, i guess its a big factor what kind of atty you are using. I run my lemo @250-260'C, but on derringer 210-220 is more than enough. Not sure why, but i've read somewhere before, that tanks require higher temps. Also, one german utuber tested the temps on the coil, and it looked spot on.
Yes I lock it at room temp and unused but I only lock it at the lowest ohm it will read so why does it read a lower ohm after some time, I assume the lowest reading is the one to use and to lock.
It's not a matter of not reading the manual.
So after a week of playing around with it I find the tank to be widely inconsistent.
At times I get a good flavor and vapor production at 460, yet at other times I have to crank it up to 550 to get similar but still inferior results. I've only tried the NI200 coil that came with it so far. I'm subscribing to the theory that the juice is not getting fed fast enough into the atomizer causing the temp control to kick in prematurely.
Yes, the atty is locked. LOL In fact I tried relocking at .20 because it was previously locked at .19. The MOD wouldn't let me do it. It would read .20, but when I went to lock it, it would return to the previous value of .19. ???
The MOd itself is beautiful and the only issue I'm encountering is that the button will stick once in a while. I have a subtank Mini coming in soon so I can test the TC function with a higher quality tank. Using a Kenthal Dripper was amazing!
At times I get a good flavor and vapor production at 460, yet at other times I have to crank it up to 550 to get similar but still inferior results. I've only tried the NI200 coil that came with it so far. I'm subscribing to the theory that the juice is not getting fed fast enough into the atomizer causing the temp control to kick in prematurely.
Yes, the atty is locked. LOL In fact I tried relocking at .20 because it was previously locked at .19. The MOD wouldn't let me do it. It would read .20, but when I went to lock it, it would return to the previous value of .19. ???
The MOd itself is beautiful and the only issue I'm encountering is that the button will stick once in a while. I have a subtank Mini coming in soon so I can test the TC function with a higher quality tank. Using a Kenthal Dripper was amazing!
Oh maybe you guys misunderstand me, I'm talking about mine VT only for example if I make a Ti coil on the TF GTII It's on mine multimeter .30 when I put it on the Waidea VF It's also .30 but on the VT It's .32 and after some time the VT also goes down at .30 so if I had used the lock function at start measuring .32 I would have set the wrong ohm amount for locking that's why I wait some time for locking.
Are you saying that's normal behaviour for a dna40? It should be mentioned in the manual only locking after the coil is broke in I think.
Maybe It is, I don't have other TC devices to compare only the Waidea VF and the ohms readings never changed so far as I know but that's another chip inside not a real dna40.
This and the other issue of random loosing the atty settings which results in repeating the "new coil/same coil"question make me think there is something wrong with mine VT.
I noticed mine lowered the resistance and it didn't make a difference if it were locked or unlocked. It hasn't done that in several days, tho (and I only locked it one day since I've had it)
The DNA40 has a "refinement" function that fine tunes the resistance when the device is idle. I think it works great, but some people have issues with it. (funny, most of those people have very low post counts on ECF) On the latest version you can turn off Refinement. (i.e. lock the resistance)
edit: (didn't see the last part of your post) You're having similar issues to what I saw that one day, and I'm leaning more towards a connection problem rather than a device problem. It was hot as hell the day mine screwed up, and one of my tanks leaked juice in the 510. I didn't notice the moisture until that night. I cleaned it and haven't seen that issue since.
When the Mega coil was new it dropped resistance a few times, but it's been pretty stable since that first tank full.
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When the DNA40 first came out, most of the problems (besides the screen scrabbling) were with bad builds/bad connections. The quality of the build and the atty has to be pretty good so you end up with stable resistance. Contact nickel coils won't cut it. Many of the through-hole coil mounts aren't stable enough for one reason or another. Long coil legs definitely cause issues. Crappy 510 connections wreak havoc. Most people have problems with dual-coil set-ups (even seasoned vets) My biggest problem (still) is the coil screws coming loose. It seems no matter how tight I get them, they always loosen up, but usually only once! After I re-tighten them, they're good to go for several weeks. If I wiggle my coil legs (before I cut them off) and the resistance changes more than a few thousands of an ohm, then I know there will be problems. Stable resistance is everything when it comes to TC
And then i saw a CLR build...... Those are marketed by the same company...... Ok long story short: rebuild the stock coils and it will make a huge diference. Until now i don't have problems with any kind of Ohm fluctuation.
What's more interesting is finding a "vape-safe" excell for nickel or titanium..... Since there is going to be a boost of new users and they often don't educate themselves there should be more info about coils and values... Even i had a hard time finding the safer temps for nickel, wicking material and juice.
With nickel you're always sub-ohming...... LooooL
What's more interesting is finding a "vape-safe" excell for nickel or titanium..... Since there is going to be a boost of new users and they often don't educate themselves there should be more info about coils and values... Even i had a hard time finding the safer temps for nickel, wicking material and juice.
With nickel you're always sub-ohming...... LooooL
A lot of the strange issues being reported here...i hadn't experienced....till now. The second I built one of my occ coils with ni200..... That coil head just doesn't cut it for tc on this mod. It was built at .1, mod would read it anywhere from .9-.17. Even at .17 I would get resistance too low message and it would drop into VW mode. Swapped to my sub tank mini with rba built to .1, it's reading at .1 (on both this mod and the invader mini), and working flawlessly....long story short, if mod is acting strange, try changing the coil before writing the mod off as busted
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
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