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Yeah something is wrong it should not be cutting out like that. Pretty sure it is the card. Not that wide really the Shotgun has the atomizers wider apart then mine. Dont really like having two atomizers in my mouth though. But i had nothing to do and it was really easy to slap together. Be just as easy to take apart .
my soldering iron requires fire to get it goingWhat do you have a match in picture three for?! I haven't seen a match since I started vaping!
FYI - use the resistor at your own risk. Other posts....
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/103842-converting-e-cig-use-usb-power.html
talks about it working on a usb hub that is powered (to get enough amps.. hub still has data lines.....). There is also a wikipedia article that talks about the connector side having a 200 ohm resistor, not the device. IDK. use at your own risk.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/103842-converting-e-cig-use-usb-power.html
talks about it working on a usb hub that is powered (to get enough amps.. hub still has data lines.....). There is also a wikipedia article that talks about the connector side having a 200 ohm resistor, not the device. IDK. use at your own risk.
my soldering iron requires fire to get it going
does that iron work well? was thinking of trying to get one, but wasnt sure how the "micro torch" thing would work out
I works pretty good really my only complaint with it is when you put the soldering part on there is a little bit of a wobble or play in it . Which would not be good for precision soldering. It has been fine for everything i use it for. I use it as a torch a lot more then i solder with it. So it comes in handle there as well. I guess if i wanted to i could tighten up the tip somehow. Not sure if they are all like that. The best thing about it is no cords. I do a lot of side work on cars and like to solder my connections rather then use those stupid tap in clips that can destory the wire. They also seem to lose connection after a few years. I guess if all i did with it was mods then it would be a bit of over kill when you can get iron for less then 5 bucks.
A bit of confusion. A Pass Through should do just that, pass the current through directly to the atty, not just supply some current to a charging circuit that keeps a battery charged. Anytime a battery is involved it isn't a Pass Through, even though folks/makers call them PTs.
i think most the time a batt is used to buffer the voltage, helps keep it steady like a capasitor
The PT's with the inline batteries run the atomizer off the battery. You can unplug them from the usb port and use then till the battery is dead. The USB port does not supply voltage to the atomizer. All it does is recharge the battery when low.
The PT i made is considered a straight threw PT. No protection circuit No battery. I needed it like that so when i run it off my variable voltage card i can vape at what ever voltage i choose.
Does all attys use 5.9 volts. Or what is the voltage and resistance required for say, a 510 power mod?
510 atomizers run anywhere for 3.2 to 3.5 volts under load stock. 510 batteries are rated at 3.7 volts they can read a bit higher or lower. 5.9 volts is pretty high most people would use a high Resistance atomizer at that voltage. For a regular stock resistance atomizers i have taken them up 5.6 volts but didn't like the vapor. I usually run my 510's at 4.4 to 5.1 volts. Thats pretty much the sweet spot for me. I guess you could say anything over 4 volts for a 510 would be a power mod. When i had that thing cranked up to 5.9 it had two atomizers on it. Shotgun type mod. Didnt work out because i dont have a big mouth. Trying to pull on two atomizers at the same time was just weird.
Getting this thing here Saturday at least thats what fedex tracking says. Going to go well with my newly made PT. Dial a voltage and vape. even tells you your amps used on the output
Edit: oh yeah it has a usb port on it too , hard to tell in the picture
Hiya, would love some more info of where you got this dial a voltage thingy
Ive made a passthru with aa box and soldered the data lines together, and dosent work to well from the comp. If i plug it into my cable box usb gives me a much better vape, but makes the channel flicker(doh, not good wonder what effect has on comp)
Would like to try a resistor between them to see if it cleans it up or changes it in anyway. By using this voltage dial thingy might help to show whats going on.
Well the amp draw for a atomizer is pretty high so having a card like this or powering the passthrough off a 2 amp usb charger or a 2amp powered USB hub would be the best bet. Your data wires should not be soldered together. You can put a resistor between them. I am pulling this off memory but from what i remember reading USB 2.0 specs that a USB 2.0 port gives 200ma when connected. If the device pluged in puts a resistance of at least 200 ohms between the data wires it sets the USB port to charge mode. This bumps up the amps to 1.5 or 1500 ma. Really @ 5volts 1.5 amps is not enough. Even 2 amps is not really enough but it is pretty close and will work. You can get a 2amp usb hub on ebay for 8 bucks. people have had problems running passthroughs off computers so it is much better to run one off something that costs less then ten bucks then running it off a computer that costs hundreds of dollars if not thousands of dollars. I got the variable voltage battery charging card all battery.com , but they have been out of stock on them for awhile now. The USB port on it is also protected with a varistor over 1.5 amps it will cut out in a few seconds. But it is easy to bypass it with a simple piece of wire. If you google the part name you can find them other places. It is made by tenergy here is a link to it on all battery Rechargeable Batteries & Battery Chargers - Tenergy Universal DC-DC Converter and Voltage Stablizer--Any Voltage Control, New!
I would for sure cut the connection between the data wires you dont need them for USB hubs wall adapters or battery cards The only things you really should be running a 5 volt passthrough off of
I would for sure cut the connection between the data wires you dont need them for USB hubs wall adapters or battery cards The only things you really should be running a 5 volt passthrough off of
now you've got me curious. unfortunately, though i can wire up car audio with great ease, home and micro-electronics are greek to me. is it possible to gut the battery out of my dying 510, hook up the wires to a USB cable, plug it in and go to town on it?
Just start from scratch with any container you want and a decent high amp switch. Those battery switches are disposable items meant for low volts/amps.
Here's my first PT, < $7 in parts.
My latest.
With this 2000mA AC adapter and a Joye 510 it runs at 4.17V.
FWIW the USB cables for printers are usually sturdier than the $ store variety.
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