Just got my first RBA, need help!

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whyycharles

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Hey, just got my first rba which was a z atty. I wanted to buy some extra kanthal wires and was wondering whats the difference in the guages? Like 30 / 32 / 36? Also wanted to buy some mesh to make some wicks? Whats the difference in 325 and 400? Thanks, and just incase you wonder what i usually vape. I vape mostly 100vg or 10/90. Allergic to pg... ;[
 

Baditude

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I'm just getting into rebuildables myself, and don't have enough knowledge or experience to answer your questions with any confidence. I can however direct you to the rebuildable sub-forum which with a little research you can find the answer there, or you can ask your questions there to get more expert answers.

Rebuildable Atomizer Systems

Good luck with the ZAP!
 

meli.

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When starting out with RBA's it would be a good idea to buy a sampler pack of wire, various sizes offer different resistance levels according to wraps made on wick and will also change the level of amps being pulled. The fatter the wire eg 28g the less the resistance compared to 32g which is thinner and carries more resistance and so on.
TomCatt's Calculators and PV Apps are a nice way of working it out. Make sure you bookmark this one.

Also if you need a deeper explanation this thread has loads of info with regard to high/low resistance.
 

meli.

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lol i think it might be the 100 % vg juice, its happens when i was doing the pre set up.
You have far too much juice on the coil and on the base of the wick hole, best not to do that or let that happen, a quick blow should extinguish the flames but make sure you mop up any extra liquid.
 

Trick

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Hey, just got my first RBA which was a z atty. I wanted to buy some extra kanthal wires and was wondering whats the difference in the guages? Like 30 / 32 / 36? Also wanted to buy some mesh to make some wicks? Whats the difference in 325 and 400? Thanks, and just incase you wonder what i usually vape. I vape mostly 100vg or 10/90. Allergic to pg... ;[

To answer the original question, the difference in wire gauges is the thickness of the wire. Higher numbers mean thinner wire. Thicker wire generally requires fewer wraps, but can require higher voltage, since the wire by length will have higher resistance, since it contains more metal. I use a lot of 32 here, but had my ZAP set up with 30 for quite a while and it worked well.

The mesh rating (325, 400, etc) is how many strands the mesh contains per square inch, if I remember correctly. A higher number means thinner threads, and more of them. People will tell you that some gauges are better for thin juices, and some better for thick, but personally, I use 500 pretty much exclusively now, as I find it works great on any juice (and I go through a lot of 100% VG juice myself).
 

BlaqVenom

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The lower the gauge, the thicker the wire, the lower the resistance (i.e. 28g is thicker than 32g and also has less resistance). Thicker wire has more surface area (due to larger diameter) than the same length of thinner wire. Greater conductive surface area (current passes on the OUTSIDE of the wire, not through the middle) = lower resistance.

With the SS mesh, the higher the # the smaller the particle that can pass through the screen. Filtering, sifting, sieving, etc is irrelevant to you, but what is important is capillary action. The higher the number, the smaller the squares that comprise the mesh. This means that the wires that make the little squares are closer together and smaller droplets of liquid can travel from wire to wire based upon viscosity. Theoretically, the smaller the squares, the better the mesh wicks. So, a higher number means smaller squares means the mesh will wick juice better. #325 sometimes is strictly gravity fed and doesn't wick well via capillary action.

If your wick is bursting into flames, it usually means 2 things are happening: 1) there is excess juice near the coil; and 2) your coil is burning hot (hotspots or too high voltage). Check your coil for hotspots. Excess juice is usually a good thing (means good wicking), unless you overdripped or leaked.
 

smackdye

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I rolled my coil too loose once and it caught on fire, maybe your coil was too loose, I use 32g almost exclusively, it is just what I like, no rhyme or reason for it, ive tried the others and just kinda went back to 32g, then again, Im completely fine with the stock air hole, and I rarely ever go above 4.8 volts, even on a 3.0 ohm coil.
 

whyycharles

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SteveW

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I looked at a lot of comments on those that like 32g and those that like 28g and split the difference and went for 30g. Works really well for me so far and I also went with the 500 mesh as it seems to be a very popular choice (500 is the number of holes per square inch I think). Lower resistance also means a slightly longer time for the coil to heat up but I don't think that is really much of a big deal.
 

SteveW

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325 mesh is best for 100vg juices right?
This is not strictly the case though a lot of people seem to think so. Check out the z atty video on the Provape site. The difference relates to throat hit, not wicking ability. According to "Zen", with high VG juices that have less throat hit you might want to choose the 325 mesh over a finer size to increase throat hit and vice versa for high pg juices. In this case you can select a finer mesh to decrease throat hit.

Remember though on RBAs where you can move the air hole you can also increase throat hit by moving away from the wick and this also decreases vapor. This suggests to me that it is air to vapor ratio that has a major effect on throat hit and it is quite possible that the finer mesh is pulling more fluid and so produces more vapor and reduces throat hit. At the end of the day it is personal choice and what sort of a throat hit you are looking for.
 
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