just got my vaporshark ni200 coils.

[Woofer]

I am not surprised that there are connection issues, it seemed apparent from previous connection issues that the friction connections would not be adequate.
I sure wonder how and why Kanger got to market as is.
Live and learn.

 

[fragger56]

I am not surprised that there are connection issues, it seemed apparent from previous connection issues that the friction connections would not be adequate.
I sure wonder how and why Kanger got to market as is.
Live and learn.

I run my SubTank on top of a Vulcan HS which has a fixed center pin which puts extra pressure on the center pin of the SubTank and because of this I've had no issues with the pack of Ni200 coils I bought. If I don't use said Vulcan HS I occasionally have issues with my box when running in TC because the DNA40 box I built myself has a FDV 510 connector on it which has a spring loaded center pin which doesn't put as much pressure on the center pin of the subtank.

Most DNA40 boxes I've seen have spring loaded center pins, so I'm guessing that's causing a loose connection/resistance fluctuations some people are having issues with.

IMO if the insulator in the base of the SubTanks were made of a hard plastic like PEEK rather than the soft white (silicone?) insulator there would be a much lower chance of there being resistance issues with the factory heads.

 

[dr g]

I am starting to use these coils and after putting several in rotation, I don't see much issue with their performance. It's similar to other prebuilt nickel coils I've used. It's not uncommon in any nickel coil to see refinement of a few points. You do need to crank the temperature up a bit to get it going, I would guess the long coil legs cause that.

 

[mesamay2003]

Bad parts aside, maybe we are used to vaping at higher temps than we previously thought, and TC is throttling it...should be interesting how this plays out.

 

[dmazyn]

I have the OCC heads in my subtank mini running on the vaporflask clone without too many issues. I am running it at 400F at 26 watts and it never hits the temp limit unless I do a extremely long pull 12 sec +. It hovers around 350F-370F for the entire 6 to 10 second pull.

The only issue I have is after a refill I have to select it as a new coil or it will hit TP in 2 seconds. It reads around .16 for the first few hits then settles in at .13/.12 =. The clone does have a solid pin so maybe that is the reason it is working better then most.

I also noticed if you tighten the tank down too much there seems to be some connection issues as it will get the TP in a second or two.

 

[congaman]

I have been fiddling with these Kanger OCC nickle heads i bought from VS in my Subtank mini for about 2 weeks now on the Vaporshark. Was having issues with them. Have finally settled on 450 degrees @ 18-18.5 watts. Tp is not kicking in unless i take multiple hits in quick succession. Ohms stay at 0.14(initially start out anywhere between .17 and.19 with a new head and then settle in at 0.14) I'm still on the fence about these nickel heads. Might just go back to the kanthal heads as they work fine with no fiddling and wondering. Wish i hadn't bought 2 packs of the nickel heads. Live and learn!

 

[dr g]

Bad parts aside, maybe we are used to vaping at higher temps than we previously thought, and TC is throttling it...should be interesting how this plays out.

Not only that but many people do not really understand what the temperature displayed represents.

 

[puffon]

Not only that but many people do not really understand what the temperature displayed represents.

What does the temperature displayed represent?
I understood it, to be the average temperature of the entire coil.
Thanks

 

[badvox]

First, glad I found the thread. I tried two heads and same result as a few here. I've had my rdna 40 since the first run so I am used to nickel builds and the difference.

I believe the problem to be poor wicking. Example, on my hobo, temp won't begin to kick in at all until my juice is needing to be dripped again, going dry. If it stays wet no protection unless of course I take so long of a pull that the wicking can't keep up.

Same for these heads. Prime it and it rocks @ 420 until it dries up. Juice is just not getting to my coils. Simple as that. No bubbles indicating flow, pulling the head and looking, there is just no juice. I am using a Kanger subtank mini. BTW regular OCC head plenty of tiny bubbles.

Is it possible for a vacuum condition on the subtank mini not to allow juice to flow naturally?

 

[classwife]

Moved to Temperature Control from General Vaping Discussion

 

[Jdbaker82]

I think you might be right about this it seems like if i wait between pulls the temp mode doesn't come on as fast or at all so it must be something to do with the wicking dont think I am liking this temp control

 

[Jdbaker82]

My bigger question is what exactly happens when the temp protection kicks it seems to me like it doesnt adjust properly and it ends up with less vapor and flavor through a longer vape ..... So yeah we know its normal and showing that its working but it seems to me that when it backs off because of temp protection it backs off too much where your not getting enough power

 

[retird]

If I recall you have a rDNA.... what settings are you at..... temp and wattage settings can effect how much temp protect plays a role....also what atty/coil are you using...

 

[Jdbaker82]

If I recall you have a rDNA.... what settings are you at..... temp and wattage settings can effect how much temp protect plays a role....also what atty/coil are you using...

Yeah vaporshark rdna40 using the kanger OCC nickel coils setting it between 400-450 and 20-25W just not getting much vapor or a warm vape

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2

 

[retird]

I use them too.... only had one that was shy on vapor and flavor... was wicking poorly... took a toothpick and pushed it thru the wicking holes to open it up a bit.... I use 70/30 pg/vg ... try increasing the temp also may help....

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Yeah vaporshark rdna40 using the kanger OCC nickel coils setting it between 400-450 and 20-25W just not getting much vapor or a warm vape

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2

so turn up the temp and wattage!! you might try poking a sewing needle through the wick to aid wicking. helps a bit.