just got the TI "sample" boards

[codfish124]

question is there a rotary switch that i could use to up the voltage to 6.4 and no hier so i guess open to 18.5 kW . or would it be better to wire a rotary switch to the leads going into the atty and just hook up a 18.5 kW to get 6.4v. trying to make a mod that i can regulate volts from 5-6.4v.


thanks for any help

 

[Scubabatdan]

question is there a rotary switch that i could use to up the voltage to 6.4 and no hier so i guess open to 18.5 kW . or would it be better to wire a rotary switch to the leads going into the atty and just hook up a 18.5 kW to get 6.4v. trying to make a mod that i can regulate volts from 5-6.4v.


thanks for any help

The rotating switch might be a little bulky for the small box you are trying to stuff it into, but feasable. I envision a three position slider switch with three different resistors that would give the appropriate voltage depending on the position and would more than likely be smaller and look more stream lined IMO. Here is an example: Model625

Dan

 

[kc0cmp]

The rotating switch might be a little bulky for the small box you are trying to stuff it into, but feasable. I envision a three position slider switch with three different resistors that would give the appropriate voltage depending on the position and would more than likely be smaller and look more stream lined IMO. Here is an example: Model625

Dan

I agree, a 3 position micro slider is going to be a lot easier to find than a multi position rotary..some micro sized (using the term loosely) rotarys might be scavenged from dead equipment (old electronics of small size) but now that everything is going to stepping switches and microcontrollers..theyre getting more rare than earthworm teeth

 

[codfish124]

i was thinking something like this 500K Ohm Volume Control with Push Switch - RadioShack.com

a slide switch was my first thinking but with something win the right ohm range like this you could have full control of V going into the atty but i would need it to cut off before atty detonation.

 

[Nuck]

i was thinking something like this 500K Ohm Volume Control with Push Switch - RadioShack.com

a slide switch was my first thinking but with something win the right ohm range like this you could have full control of V going into the atty but i would need it to cut off before atty detonation.

That one is 1.5" in height. You're not going to find one that can handle the current required that isn't huge. The best way to do it to get an adjustable regulator or boost and use a small potentiometer on the adjustment pins. These typical only require about an 1/8th of a watt.

 

[codfish124]

i might need to rethink this idea..... this is what i was going for.

mod box with i was thinking a cordless phone battery there 3.6v from what i can see. have a charger that's my power supply. then have the TI board with the right turn dial to step it up from 5.2-about 6.4 or even a little more. also have a digital volt reading to know what the running volts are wile vaping and with a turn of a dial add more juice.


any one think that's a good idea or is that to much.

 

[Nuck]

i might need to rethink this idea..... this is what i was going for.

mod box with i was thinking a cordless phone battery there 3.6v from what i can see. have a charger that's my power supply. then have the TI board with the right turn dial to step it up from 5.2-about 6.4 or even a little more. also have a digital volt reading to know what the running volts are wile vaping and with a turn of a dial add more juice.


any one think that's a good idea or is that to much.

Not sure what TI board you are talking about but the idea is pretty sweet. I used a potentiometer with a UCC-283T-ADJ chip and it worked fine but it was too hard to find the correct voltage. Your idea of an LED display gets rid of that issue completely.

If you are talking about the boost converter from TI, then it already has an adjust pin on it that only requires a potentiometer of 1/8 watts. I built one that uses a selector switch with different resistances to run at 4.4, 4.8 and 5.2v and its my all time favourite mod.

The problems you are going to run into is that the resistance required to modulate the output is exponential so you won't get a linear increase across the range of the dial.

The other is that at 6.4v, the 501 will draw almost 18w of power and the boost chip (again, I assume this is the chip you are talking about) has a max rating of 12w.

Keep in the mind that a atty getting 5.2v with a constant full current is pretty damn close to full 6v vaping using bats with no power management.

 

[codfish124]

i have these boards Plug-in Power Modules - Non-Isolated POL - PTN04050C - TI.com the free samples


i was thinking a potentiometer where the resistor go i had the idea of the slider switch but then thought if i could find the right potentiometer then i could use that instead

i think you said an 1/8 watt potentiometer i could get this to work? but you think i might fry the voltage booster board.

im thinking i might have gotten over my head and i might just go with a 3 position switch

 

[Nuck]

i have these boards Plug-in Power Modules - Non-Isolated POL - PTN04050C - TI.com the free samples


i was thinking a potentiometer where the resistor go i had the idea of the slider switch but then thought if i could find the right potentiometer then i could use that instead

i think you said an 1/8 watt potentiometer i could get this to work? but you think i might fry the voltage booster board.

im thinking i might have gotten over my head and i might just go with a 3 position switch

Thats the board I thought it was. The pot only has to be 1/8w because the main current doesn't flow through it. It runs between the adjustment pin and the ground on the board.

The board itself has a max rating of 12w and at the voltages you were quoting using the resistance our atties draw (2.3-3.5ohm depending on model) you would exceed the rating by quite a bit.

The good news is that because the boards pump out a steady supply of current (if the bat can handle it) a 5.2v output is extremely powerful and will exceed many of the 6v mods out there today. At 5.2v you would run at a safe power regardless of atty used.

It's not nearly as hard as it sounds. The real problem is the exponential change in voltage based on the adjustment resistance. Have a look at the table on the datasheet to see what I mean.

Ive done mods with this board using selectable voltages on a slide switch which each switch lead having an appropriate small resistor. It works amazing and is what I use for day to day vaping.

 

[codfish124]

ya im just going to go with the slide switch now that i have 3 of these well 2 with one working but modded im going to use this as a battery pack

Lenmar® 5V/750mAh PowerPort™ Mini USB Charger/Power (Black) - RadioShack.com


1 more nooby question..... i went to radio shack to get resistors and i didn't see a 147k would one mix a 100k and a 47k.....and if so would you run them in series or parallel

 

[Nuck]

ya im just going to go with the slide switch now that i have 3 of these well 2 with one working but modded im going to use this as a battery pack

Lenmar® 5V/750mAh PowerPort™ Mini USB Charger/Power (Black) - RadioShack.com


1 more nooby question..... i went to radio shack to get resistors and i didn't see a 147k would one mix a 100k and a 47k.....and if so would you run them in series or parallel

Just string em together in series and it will work fine.

 

[codfish124]

great thanks

 

[mnealtx]

You'd run them in series

 

[Quit4myKids]

ya im just going to go with the slide switch now that i have 3 of these well 2 with one working but modded im going to use this as a battery pack

Lenmar® 5V/750mAh PowerPort™ Mini USB Charger/Power (Black) - RadioShack.com


1 more nooby question..... i went to radio shack to get resistors and i didn't see a 147k would one mix a 100k and a 47k.....and if so would you run them in series or parallel

I love this device. I drilled a hole in the top of the case and epoxied an 801 battery connector, wired straight off the 5V through a RS mini tact switch. Much shorter than an 801 batt, and fits with an atty nicely in my shirt pocket. An added plus is that besides being an all-day battery, it charges via USB, and provides power for a quick cell charge (if I determine that is more important than being able to vape!), or other USB power need. Much smaller than a JantyStick, and only missing the LED (just because I was feeling lazy when I built the mod).

This device, with a plastic tube (a cut off 801 cartridge cap) at the end of the BE112 atty instead of the standard mouthpiece (see pic above), along with an e-dobber, is what I carry when I go out.

All in all, I consider this to be a great platform to mod from!

Cheers,

Q4mK

 

[codfish124]

that looks good i was gonna do somthing like that but just guled a pasthrought to the top

 

[CloudBurst]

I have one of these, would like to see a pic of the inside one above by Quit$mykids.

 

[codfish124]

look for the post that is titeled sale 9.99 there are pic of the inside.

 

[Quit4myKids]

Sorry Stormi, it's epoxied shut because of the connector, and I neglected o take pics when I was building it. I'm thinking about doing another with a different button type, and will make sure to document the process better. There isn't much to it, I wired positive from the 5V on the large USB port to a RS switch, then to the 801 battery connector, and then from the connector back to ground. The power pack still works just as it did before. In fact I use this and a passthrough from the battery when I have a friend over, or when I want to "shotgun" vape, and it works fine for hours.

Q4mK

 

[kc0cmp]

Not sure what TI board you are talking about but the idea is pretty sweet. I used a potentiometer with a UCC-283T-ADJ chip and it worked fine but it was too hard to find the correct voltage. Your idea of an LED display gets rid of that issue completely.

If you are talking about the boost converter from TI, then it already has an adjust pin on it that only requires a potentiometer of 1/8 watts. I built one that uses a selector switch with different resistances to run at 4.4, 4.8 and 5.2v and its my all time favourite mod.

The problems you are going to run into is that the resistance required to modulate the output is exponential so you won't get a linear increase across the range of the dial.

The other is that at 6.4v, the 501 will draw almost 18w of power and the boost chip (again, I assume this is the chip you are talking about) has a max rating of 12w.

Keep in the mind that a atty getting 5.2v with a constant full current is pretty damn close to full 6v vaping using bats with no power management.

the site says "minimum out" of 5v..you're runnin *that* through a resistor to drop it further then? I still don't know why no one is using silicon rectifier diodes to drop voltages in predictable approximately 1v incriments lol, that was the golden standard back in the day for high amperage small voltage drops. Silicon rectifiers basically reduce *through* voltage by their switch-on value... if it requires 1.2v to switch on, then voltage passing through it will be reduced by that amount, and radio shack used to sell them in bulk for cheap...and everyone else would be cheaper. Only issue is that you cant reverse the battery..you gotta pick a direction and stick with it as voltage only goes one way through a diode

 

[mnealtx]

Folks have done plenty of builds using the 1n4001 rectifier diodes to pull 6v down to 5v.

Pulling 8v down to 5v, the LDO regulators seem to be more popular.

Now, the trend is going toward using boost converters to push 3.7v up to 5v, which has the advantage of letting you use batteries in parallel for longer duration.

In both cases (the LDO regulators and the boost converters), you have stable voltage all the way to cutoff - not the case with the 1n4001 diodes.