I recently bought the new Kanger Pro V2, loved my V1, but noticing that hits are harder to draw and if I get an easy draw I get barely any vape. Any suggestions?
Kanger Pro V2 Issues
- Thread starter RogueTech
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Funny you should ask. I stopped using my PT2 as it could draw hardly any air on my SID or my MVP (no beauty ring even). I just drilled out the 3 micro holes and added 3 more using a 3/64 drill bit. Finally works again.
Did you use any particular type of bit to perform your drilling?
It's not the juice. The PT2 draws like a beast on my ego sticks.
I love my ProTank2. That being said I had a few of the same problems you did that almost made me ditch it and look for a carto tank. First problem was a leaky tank, turns out when i cleaned it one of the O-rings popped out and I didnt even notice. Then I had a bad draw issue like this, the fix that worked for me was buying a new base for it. Apparently I overtightened a coil at some point or another and stripped part of the top thread of the base out so when the coil was tightened the air holes didnt line up. Of course that took a week for me to figure out, but while i was researching my problem I came across a post that said Kanger was having a QC issue with the bases at one point(maybe you got a dud), a number of them werent threaded to spec with the coils so they werent lining up with the coil right. Usually if you can unscrew a bit and draw, a bad base is probably your issue. You can find base replacements for $1-$2US at a number of online vendors.
New to this whole line of rhetoric. What is SID and MVP?
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I trim the silicone insulator between the contacts at the base of the removable wick head. It gets squished and blocks airflow.
Those are just two different mods. Smoktech sid and itaste MVP.
Mods being batteries with screens and variable settings, correct?
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I gave up my PT2, same issues...and I don't want a clearo to do adjustments to...so I dug up my PT1 and no issues at all. I think it has something to do with the filler holes and how they are drilled.
personally I think the bases are hit or miss, you can try a different one for $3, but you never know what you're gonna get with machine tolerances "over there". I went through 2 bases before I tried trimming the insulator. I just take a razor blade and trim the excess around the contact pin on the bottom of the wick. There's still enough insulation to separate the 2 ends of the coil from shorting, and the "ballooned" part is removed allowing air to flow properly through the holes in the base. I do also drill mine out, but draw is your preference. I find Kanger to be a little bit on the tight side with airflow.
I purchased an Aerobase for my Protank II, and it made a world of difference, basically turning my Protank into an Aerotank. Not only that, but this base protects mods and batteries from leakage as there's no direct contact between the coil head and battery.
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