Hey guys, I have recently been having issues with my protank 2. Currently I use 2.5 ohm atomizer heads, and use EC Blend e-liquid, vaping at 4.3 volts. First, is thi a good combination of voltage/resistance? I used to vape the same resistance at 3.8 ohms, but someone at my local b+m told me to bump it up to get rid of some of the gurgling problems I was having. All of the heads I use seem to have this burnt taste to them that I can't get rid of. I turned the cap on the head upside down to try to get more juice to the wicks, but this hasn't worked, This burnt taste happens even with brand new heads, and at all voltage levels. Also, the protank 2 hasn't been performing like it used to. It doesn't produce the same amount of vapor or throat hit as it used to. I have been having a bunch of issues with this batch of atomizer heads. I got them from LitecigUSA, is this a reputable vendor for atomizer heads? If not, can someone recommend me a new vendor? These issues continue to occur even after cleaning and dry burning, just for some extra information. Thank you for any help you might send my way!
Kanger Protank 2 Not Performing Well
- Thread starter dmredsoxboy33
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when i used to rock the P2 using the 2.+ ohm coils i would run between 3.6 and 4.2 volts and i would start low and work up to break in the coil..
your best bet if you wanna stay with these tanks is to learn to rebuild the coils yourself.. the ones you buy in the stores or online are always a roll of the dice.. just my $.02
Edit:
Check out rip trippers on you tube .. he has a video on how to rebuild the coils..
your best bet if you wanna stay with these tanks is to learn to rebuild the coils yourself.. the ones you buy in the stores or online are always a roll of the dice.. just my $.02
Edit:
Check out rip trippers on you tube .. he has a video on how to rebuild the coils..
My Protank 2 was always a lot more prone to gurgling issues than my minis.
If you're having gurgling, sometimes kicking the voltage up for a few hits cooks off the excess. Otherwise you may have to pull the atty/base & blow through the bottom to clear it. Also, flipping that silicone ring upside down is usually known for allowing more juice flow, which you don't want if you're getting gurgling.
Best bet may be to put in a fresh coil, leave the silicone ring alone, and turn down the voltage a touch. 4.3v isn't out of line on a 2.5 ohm coil though, only around 7.4w.
What kind of juice are you using, and is it really thick? Back when I used the stock coils I was using a local shops juice that was really thick/syrupy. I was changing coils every couple of days from dry hits. Changing juice fixed the issue.
If you're willing to try building your own coils, check out the rip trippers vid mentioned above. Microcoils make a massive improvement in these tanks. I run mine around 15w & get way more flavor & vapor. If you're on something lower powered like an ego twist, microcoils with thinner wire, or spaced wraps with silica wick work well.
If you're having gurgling, sometimes kicking the voltage up for a few hits cooks off the excess. Otherwise you may have to pull the atty/base & blow through the bottom to clear it. Also, flipping that silicone ring upside down is usually known for allowing more juice flow, which you don't want if you're getting gurgling.
Best bet may be to put in a fresh coil, leave the silicone ring alone, and turn down the voltage a touch. 4.3v isn't out of line on a 2.5 ohm coil though, only around 7.4w.
What kind of juice are you using, and is it really thick? Back when I used the stock coils I was using a local shops juice that was really thick/syrupy. I was changing coils every couple of days from dry hits. Changing juice fixed the issue.
If you're willing to try building your own coils, check out the rip trippers vid mentioned above. Microcoils make a massive improvement in these tanks. I run mine around 15w & get way more flavor & vapor. If you're on something lower powered like an ego twist, microcoils with thinner wire, or spaced wraps with silica wick work well.
Thanks for the quick reply guys! Usually the gurgling doesn't start until after I flip the cup, but this time it started before I flipped it. These issues don't occur when I use the juice from my local vape shop, but it is much more expensive than what I buy online. All my juice is 50/50 PG/VG, which is why it seems weird to me. BTW, how hard is it to rebuild coils? I'm a college kid, and all of this "fancy vape talk" is a little bit intimidating lol. I will put in a new coil and leave the silicone cap how it is and see how it works out. Thanks again for the help!
If you're somewhat mechanically inclined, and comfortable working with small parts, coils rebuilds aren't too hard to learn. Might take a few tries like any new skill. Good info in Rip's vid : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s
He's using 28g wrapped on a 5/64" drill bit, with 12 wraps. I've done it, but it was a pain. Much, much easier with a 1/16th drill bit, as it will fit into the slot on the coil base, keeping the coil in place while you assemble it. Also 12 wraps of 28g is pretty tight in there, especially for the first time. I use 10 -11 wraps on a 1/16th, wick with cotton, and run at about 15 watts.
Not sure what kind of device you have. Something like an istick is great for the above. If you're on something lower powered like a twist, you might want something like the above build, but with 30g or 32g wire & less wraps.
He's using 28g wrapped on a 5/64" drill bit, with 12 wraps. I've done it, but it was a pain. Much, much easier with a 1/16th drill bit, as it will fit into the slot on the coil base, keeping the coil in place while you assemble it. Also 12 wraps of 28g is pretty tight in there, especially for the first time. I use 10 -11 wraps on a 1/16th, wick with cotton, and run at about 15 watts.
Not sure what kind of device you have. Something like an istick is great for the above. If you're on something lower powered like a twist, you might want something like the above build, but with 30g or 32g wire & less wraps.
Still rockin a Protank 2 with stock coils (2.2 ohm) on an eGo style non-variable battery here as well. I keep it around because my fav ry4 tastes best in this tank at that voltage to me and it's an easy carry if on the go. Best thing I ever did for that tank was add an airflow control base to it. All the common frustrating issues like leaking onto the battery went away. I get a gurgle every now and then but a short, sharp push of air in the reverse direction solves that and I just clean under the coil next time I fill it up. Nada problemo. no muss, no fuss.
The airflow base is under 10 bux depending on where and what version base you buy...stainless or not. In all seriousness, you can make a decision at this point instead of spending money on the airflow base for an old tank, you can look at an aerotank v2 (full stainless, same capacity, takes better dual coils, has excellent airflow base already)
The only reason I mention stainless is my own personal opinion, ymmv. I like to get that protank 2 just past warm and into hot territory, chainvaping the ry4... after some thought about it, I was concerned about heating/cooling/heating/cooling of the chromed brass PT 2 over time. I am migrating to stainless everything....just mentioning in case you care. Good luck.
The airflow base is under 10 bux depending on where and what version base you buy...stainless or not. In all seriousness, you can make a decision at this point instead of spending money on the airflow base for an old tank, you can look at an aerotank v2 (full stainless, same capacity, takes better dual coils, has excellent airflow base already)
The only reason I mention stainless is my own personal opinion, ymmv. I like to get that protank 2 just past warm and into hot territory, chainvaping the ry4... after some thought about it, I was concerned about heating/cooling/heating/cooling of the chromed brass PT 2 over time. I am migrating to stainless everything....just mentioning in case you care. Good luck.
The airflow controller is a must for the PT2 - they can be found at $4 - 5 from many vendors. I have quite few PT2s and each one has an AFC - no flooding or gurgling issues.
I actually don't dry burn pt2 coils. I find there's a burnt taste that never goes away if you do that.
As for the airflow control, I highly recommend purchasing one for each protank you have. Even though I have yet to actually do that myself.
There's a big version of the V3 airflow control base on my emow mega's though... and I'm not going to lie. It's the pretty much the best airflow system I've used.
As for the airflow control, I highly recommend purchasing one for each protank you have. Even though I have yet to actually do that myself.
There's a big version of the V3 airflow control base on my emow mega's though... and I'm not going to lie. It's the pretty much the best airflow system I've used.
Hi. I think the biggest mistakes I've made in the last 5 years was pressing the button to see if my atty was working-before it was saturated. What I learned is that do not push the on button before 15 minutes or so. If you do before the wick is fully saturated, you have already cut down on it's performance.
I think your battery is good at 4.3 and maybe you should try a 1.8 to 2 ohm atty and let it soak and don't be quick to push the button. I was having some problem with the protank . It didn't wick well on some. When it vaped well, the vapor was so thick it would leave a film on my glasses, and the juice would disappear so so fast. A real juice hog. So I'm trying an aspire BDC and I'm impressed. The vapor is dryer in a good way. The taste is stronger. It's a juice mizer using over 50% less juice every day. I have a 1.8 ohm atty on a 4.8 volt Ego VV. I have plenty of room to go stronger or weaker. Just make sure you do not turn it on before that wick is saturated.
The other best thing I did was buying a itazte VV because I can push a little button on the side and it tells me what my ohms are. So I know if they are what they're supposed to be
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I have not used the site that you mention, but I usually order our Kanger coils from either Sun Vapers or Mt. Baker Vapor. I trust both sites to provide genuine Kanger products. Decent prices and fast, reasonably priced shipping from both vendors.
I have not tried my hand at rewicking yet - I have what I need to do it, just need the time. Rebuilding coils is not feasible for me at this point. I do, however, clean the coils, and have been able to get (usually) at least another 2-3 uses out of each coil before I pitch them.
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