Kanger protank rebuild

[ElectricalSocket]

I would highly recommend getting one from cigtechs. All stainless steel (won't snap), and has one airflow notch on the bottom instead of two for a little tighter draw. It's $15, but a few extra cheap bases+shipping wouldn't cost a whole lot less.

The chrome-plated brass is so soft, I dropped the little stem that snaps on to the head (which weighs nothing), and it dented.

 

[Foxman]

I just found some. but I might get a SS base next month. thanx

 

[NancyB]

Have any pilots noticed leaking with altitude change? Mostly with altitude increases? Because mine leaks like crazy. But it will also leak badly at random times any idea what I should do about that? Also where the mouth pieace tube that connects with the atomizer gets a lot of liquid in it. Any fixes for these problems?

Adam - for the leaking up the mouthpiece (and into your mouth sometimes - YUCK) I take a 'used' head (not rebuilt yet) and borrow the silican cap from it, turn it upside down from the one already on the atty head and then screw things back together - it seems to stop that back-wash for me. Perhaps a flavor ('gurgling/leaking into air tubes') wick on top of the coil might also stop the leak - ?? NancyB

 

[Fenario]

Woo Hoo! Just got my 32G Kanthal and used cotton for wick. Success on first try. 2.1 ohm coil. Little tight on draw at first with 2 flavor wicks so I removed 1. Works great and flavor and vapor are wonderful. Thanks to everyone here for all the great info.

 

[Sd13]

I am getting a burnt taste on both 3mm single and 2mm silica wick doubled. Any suggestions?

 

[Fenario]

I am getting a burnt taste on both 3mm single and 2mm silica wick doubled. Any suggestions?

Far from an expert but maybe a little more info on your setup would help.

 

[UsedToBeNew]

I use 32ga kanthal with 3/4 wraps and get 1.5-1.7 consistantly using 1.5mm wick and 1 1.5mm flavor wick.

You'll most likely get scorching of the rubber grommet with such a small coil. The bulk of your wire needs to be in your coil, otherwise you'll get hot legging. If you want a low resistance coil, use a thicker wire and use many wraps. You need at least six wraps to avoid scorching the grommet, in my experience.

 

[computertech83]

Ok, this is a hugh thread, LOL. I am gathering the inventory to try this rebuild. I do have one question, ok maybe two. Could i see a picture on how the lead wires come out the head, do they both go through the center of the insulator or is one in and one out? I hope someone understands where i am coming from.

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

Ok, this is a hugh thread, LOL. I am gathering the inventory to try this rebuild. I do have one question, ok maybe two. Could i see a picture on how the lead wires come out the head, do they both go through the center of the insulator or is one in and one out? I hope someone understands where i am coming from.

One leg will go on the outside of the insulator, and one leg will go thru the center of the insulator.

So set your coil in its slot, then install the insulator with one leg on the outside edge and one leg running through the middle. Seat the insulator, then install the pin into the insulator binding the leg that is inside, and trim the excess as closely as possible.

 

[computertech83]

Thats what i was thinking but wanted to just double check, thanks xtwo

 

[gammaxgoblin]

I am getting a burnt taste on both 3mm single and 2mm silica wick doubled. Any suggestions?

I've not tried this as I've moved into mech mod with rda but I've heard that twisting the wire legs will get rid of that burning taste as it won't melt or scorch the rubber grommet.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[computertech83]

Got all the supplies in. Rebuilt my first coil ever last night. Worked out great. Thanks so much for this post and all the help that is on ECF.

Vape On

 

[magicmyst]

Anyone had a look at the new stock protank/evod heads? Two big changes:

1. Doubled back, no-resistance legs

2. Silicone grommets- should minimize the burnt grommet problem.

My question: Is there any info out there about rebuilding with no-resistance legs, like the new stock coils?

 

[Sd13]

Anyone had a look at the new stock protank/evod heads? Two big changes:

1. Doubled back, no-resistance legs

2. Silicone grommets- should minimize the burnt grommet problem.

My question: Is there any info out there about rebuilding with no-resistance legs, like the new stock coils?

Hmm that sounds to me like it is similar to the protank 3 coils. Those have a silicone grommet as well. My protank 3 is performing flawlessly....no dry hits whatsoever even after continual 11 watt chain vaping. Hopefully they inserted that improvement into the old pro tank/evod coils and if they did, a lot of kanger users will be very happy.

 

[Sd13]

Anyone had a look at the new stock protank/evod heads? Two big changes:

1. Doubled back, no-resistance legs

2. Silicone grommets- should minimize the burnt grommet problem.

My question: Is there any info out there about rebuilding with no-resistance legs, like the new stock coils?

Do you have the link to these new heads? I cant seem to find them anywhere.

 

[magicmyst]

Do you have the link to these new heads? I cant seem to find them anywhere.

It's just a standard protank/EVOD head. Any vendor that has fresh stock should have the new ones described above. DiscountVapers has them- 5-pack for $5.96. I'm not aware of anyone selling the new grommets separately yet.

 

[RJPAVLAS]

I never had the desire or need to delve into the world of atomizer head rebuilding until I got my two Protanks. I was so enamored with these glass and metal beauties that my wife began to get a bit jealous. Seeing as how the replacement heads, and anything Protank for that matter, are quite hard to come by at the moment, I started to wonder what would happen when my heads failed. Would I be relegated to the bleek, dismal world of Vivi Nova and Vape Only BCC use? Oh, the humanity.

I decided that now was the time to learn to rebuild. Like my forefathers, I rolled up my shirt sleeves, cracked a beer and got to work. 'Merica.

This is my first rebuild. As the photos below will indicate, I'm really, really good at it.

Here's how I did it...

This is the atomizer head that was used for a bit over a week. It's dark and grimy and produces some ungodly flavors.
View attachment 191262

Here's the tools I used...man s#!t!
View attachment 191266

I used 3mm silica wick and 32 gauge Kanthal wire. A sewing needle is used to make wrapping the wick a but easier and avoid wrapping too tightly. Six wraps.
View attachment 191268

Here's the wrapped wick in the wick holder thingy after the remaining wire ends have been threaded through the wick holder thingy.
View attachment 191269

I screwed the base onto the wick holder thingy and screwed that onto my ProVari. It's showtime. Let's see how those coils look all glowy and orange.
View attachment 191270

I half expected red-hot wire shards to shoot into my eyeballs and boiling hot battery acid magma to flow out of the battery cap of the ProVari. Alas, the coils glow evenly and beautifully. Suck it, Bin Laden.

ECF will only allow 5 amazing photos per post, so the rest of this epic journey is detailed below...

I would just like to know were the wires go in the coil holder thingy

 

[RJPAVLAS]

Ive rewicked 2 of my heads with 100% cotton. I used a 4/40 screw to make the coil and a bead needle to pull the wick through the coil.
6 wraps give me a 2.6ohm reading.............very simple to rebuild
View attachment 202465View attachment 202468View attachment 202469View attachment 202470

AWESOME.....i was just thinking if i could use cotton and clicked next page and BOOM, there's your post. exactly what i needed to know

 

[RJPAVLAS]

You can dry burn with cotton. Pull out the wick, dry burn and rinse coil, replace the wick with a brand new one (if you want). Couple minutes max. I'm finding that loose strands of cotton from a ball absorb a lot of juice fast. I drip a drop of juice on both sides and one on the coil and then immediately use it. Had to mess with it at first, but I'm lovin it now. Braided fibers probably do slow down the wicking a bit.

Ooh I just saw "Provari + Protanks" in your signature.


1) Jealous!
2) Cotton on higher voltages probably won't keep up regardless.

I would be curious to see if anyone has used cotton over 4.2v without burning it.

I'm thinking of making a coil and using cotton from a cotton ball (organic) as the wic.

 

[MacTechVpr]

You can dry burn with cotton. Pull out the wick, dry burn and rinse coil, replace the wick with a brand new one (if you want). Couple minutes max. I'm finding that loose strands of cotton from a ball absorb a lot of juice fast. I drip a drop of juice on both sides and one on the coil and then immediately use it. Had to mess with it at first, but I'm lovin it now. Braided fibers probably do slow down the wicking a bit.

Ooh I just saw "Provari + Protanks" in your signature.
1) Jealous!
2) Cotton on higher voltages probably won't keep up regardless.

I would be curious to see if anyone has used cotton over 4.2v without burning it.

I'm thinking of making a coil and using cotton from a cotton ball (organic) as the wic.

Good point. You might try posting the question on these advancing threads…

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html

Good luck!