5 pt heads rewicked for the first time! 4 out of five work GREAT, only the first one was a huge fail lol
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It may be old news ...... VAPOR LADY @ Vapor Lady Lounge Rebuild a Protank Atomizer, eVod Atomizer A New Way - YouTube ---- shows how she threads the PIN through the WICK and then WRAPS. It saves fumbling to get WICK through the coil after it is installed. Clean and simple - or, so it appears to me.
Senile Old Man Don ....... just waitin' for "101 Vapor" to send my goodies ( Wick & Wire - 101 Vape )
Senile Old Man Don ....... just waitin' for "101 Vapor" to send my goodies ( Wick & Wire - 101 Vape )
I haven't watched the video yet, but it sound like the way I do it. I have these really long pins that I think came with a polymer clay bead making kit... Yeah, like these guys Poly Tools Tube of 50 Bead Piercing Pins | eBay. They are thicker diameter than a sewing pin.
They are perfect for sticking into the wick, and the added diameter to the wick keeps the wraps from being too tight and they are long enough to handle easily.
Like many, I have been experiencing the dry hits with my PT2 mini and I figured that I would take a stab at rebuilding the coils in the effort to eliminate this problem. I found this thread as well as I have watched a few videos and just placed an order through Lightening Vapes. I probably should have checked first, but will what I ordered work in rebuilding my coils? Thanks in advance!
Hold on to the 32awg. You'll be able to use it for some clearo's and resistance options, certain juices. But it's usually a bit too flexible for sturdy contact (micro) coils. For this 30/29 are both better than 32/28 in a KPT. The silica may be useful if you can find a diameter to wick it in. That's the hard part. You're most likely flooding. The moisture inhibits power resulting in inefficient vaporization. The wick throttles. Really want to save some time. Hand winds won't get you the reliable power that you need or will prefer. A correct coil electrically and good build will. Go check out my previous post...
Post #520: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...0-kanger-protank-rebuild-52.html#post11322860
and the two threads I mention there which expand upon the excellent themes mentioned here. There you'll find specifics on winding/localization/termination/resistance targeting that you'll need to refine your perfect vape.
Good luck.
32 gauge works fine for a standard (loose wrap) coil.
Twisted 32 gauge works great but is hard to work with on a tiny scale.
Twisted 32 gauge works great but is hard to work with on a tiny scale.
Is the 32 gauge I got twisted cause I did not see this anywhere is this description? If I follow the instructions the OP listed, will this type of wire work as well as the 3mm silica I ordered?
No I meant twisted by the end user (you). You can wrap a coil with 32 gauge without any problems, it's just when trying to wrap a compressed contact micro-coil the wraps don't want to stay in contact with each other causing hotspots.
Oh ok gotcha. So I should be good with the 32ga kanthal and 3mm wick...whew.
I'm rather frustrated with this PT2. Ive been dealing with a lot of dry hits and have gone through 3 coils in a week! The last one ended up having juice spill out everywhere from the bottom onto my mod which I assume is called flooding. If rebuilding the coils doesn't eliminate these issues I'm having, I'm done with these tanks. It sad cause I've only had them for a week. One hasn't given me 1 issue while the second has been nothing but issues.
Sorry I don't mean to thread jack but appreciate the info.
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I'm rather frustrated with this PT2. Ive been dealing with a lot of dry hits and have gone through 3 coils in a week! The last one ended up having juice spill out everywhere from the bottom onto my mod which I assume is called flooding. If rebuilding the coils doesn't eliminate these issues I'm having, I'm done with these tanks. It sad cause I've only had them for a week. One hasn't given me 1 issue while the second has been nothing but issues.
Sorry I don't mean to thread jack but appreciate the info.
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Your asking rebuild questions so your on topic.
I have no gurgling issues on my rebuilds, if you get flooding or gurgling you may want to try cotton as your wick.
Don't give up on your building, you will have your PT vaping like a beast in no time.
What VG ratio is your liquid? Dry hits are usually caused by high VG e-liquid.
I have no gurgling issues on my rebuilds, if you get flooding or gurgling you may want to try cotton as your wick.
Don't give up on your building, you will have your PT vaping like a beast in no time.
What VG ratio is your liquid? Dry hits are usually caused by high VG e-liquid.
All of the issues I've had has been with the original coils. I have not had the supplies to try and rebuild yet and I am hoping that this will eliminate all of the issues I am having.
I currently use a PG/VG ratio of either 50/50 or 60/40. As strange as it may sound, I do not want to use cotton for wick as I hate the feeling of cotton and refuse to touch it lol. This is why I have been adamant on using silica.
I am extremely disappointed with my PT2 out of the box cause of these issues especially as they have been so consistent. I actually wrote to Kangertech to express my frustration:
I am writing to you to express my disappointment...
I starting vaping a month ago in the effort to quit smoking and have been successful. I started with an iTaste VV V3 and 5 iClear 16 tanks. I wanted to get a glass/pyrex tank that way I could vape any flavor of juice I desired. I did a bit of research online and had a few people recommend the Kanger Protank II mini. I decided to get 2 with the intention of ordering more in the very near future. (I have also verified the serial numbers for each one of my tanks to ensure they are authentic)
I have had these 2 PT2's for a week now and have had nothing but issues. In a week's time, I have been dealing with a significant amount of dry hits (which taste god awful), I've had significant flooding (lost quite a bit of juice due to this), and I've gone through 3 coils! This has all happened in just 1 week! I am extremely disappointed cause other than all of these issues, I really like these tanks. I like the simplicity (easily and able to be completely broken down), the amount of vapor and taste produced, and the nice airy draw.
I've since done quite a bit of research online and I am not the only one experiencing this problem! Many are dealing with this and your company's reputation is significantly being impacted! I never experienced a dry hit, flooding, or failing coils in any of the 5 iClear 16's I have (which i used for a solid 3 weeks) and I am starting to regret purchasing your product. I am sincerely asking for you to look into your quality control. Based on my experience as well as all of the research I've done, I've concluded the problem is with your atomizers (heads, coils, etc).
Please advise me what I should do as I truly enjoy your product and I would like to enjoy the investment I've made, order more, and refer it with confidence.
Sincerely,
JH
Incase this thread is being hijacked, please feel free to respond in http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=515534 as I do not want to upset anyone.
I appreciate your help f1vefour!
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I understand you not wanting to use cotton and wasn't trying to change your mind.
Do your coils have the ohm capacity etched into the base? I have had really good luck with actual KangerTech coils, it's the knockoffs that give me issues. Such as flooding or burning out quickly.
Do your coils have the ohm capacity etched into the base? I have had really good luck with actual KangerTech coils, it's the knockoffs that give me issues. Such as flooding or burning out quickly.
I will have to check and see. I got 2 coils with each tank (all in the same box) and I verified the serial numbers so I assume they are actual KangerTech coils. I got a 1.8ohm and 2.2ohm coil with each tank.
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Yes the coils have the ohms etched on them. One is a 1.8ohm and the other is a 2.2ohm that I have had the major issues with (dry hits and flooding).
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Hope you saved those coils. You should examine them vs. the advise you receive on rebuilding them just like that because those are precisely the coils that you don't want to build.
For you to use 3mm silica in a Protank is overkill with a hand-over-hand wind. You will likely experience flooding if you're installation is not spot on target. You'll need to go 1/8" Ø screwdriver or bit, skewer the wick with something to stabilize it and set it. It's high resistance unless you lower the wind count. As you do you diminish the returns of the wick diameter. It's not easy to thread. It can be done. It's a fiddly build. I've done it many times successfully. It is nowhere near as efficient, effective, durable, flavorful or reliable as a proper electrical coil suitable for the cup design or the simple remedy I encourage with a tension wind.
You could however accomplish this with 32awg and tension. It will be more resilient and once pulsed and burned in on your mod take that the right wick for its size readily. It just will not hold up as well as 29/30awg.
I would agree with f1ve on one important piece of advise. Cotton would give you the opportunity to experiment, first, with diameter and resistance goals that actually fit inside a Protank. Once you've addressed your main problem, essentially shorting, you can worry about wicks and refining your taste objectives.
The Kanger Protank 2 is a fine consumer grade tank. It sux to the extent than any other 510 tank does, and they all do for the abhorrent quality of consumables that are provided with them, as if we had suddenly returned through a time warp to 19th century technology. And too many of us just accept that to go ahead and follow the videos to duplicate that very same archaic build. Stop chocking. Build the coil and it will come.
Good luck stiz. I posted above for your benefit.
I appreciate the advice!
I did save the coils and plan to examine them so I know what not to do.
As I mentioned above, I cannot use cotton. As much as I read it wicks better and produces the best flavor, I can't handle it. Maybe at some point I will get over this.
If 3mm silica is too big, what would you suggest 1mm? I do not want to continue to battle flooding and gurgling. I did plan on using a sewing needle to stabilize the wrap.
If would be beneficial if you could post links for the silica and kanthal that I should get for this build if you would be so kind.
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I did save the coils and plan to examine them so I know what not to do.
As I mentioned above, I cannot use cotton. As much as I read it wicks better and produces the best flavor, I can't handle it. Maybe at some point I will get over this.
If 3mm silica is too big, what would you suggest 1mm? I do not want to continue to battle flooding and gurgling. I did plan on using a sewing needle to stabilize the wrap.
If would be beneficial if you could post links for the silica and kanthal that I should get for this build if you would be so kind.
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I posted a reply to you at
Post #172: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do-18.html#post11912711
Good luck!
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