Kanger Sub-Tank modification...?

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RelativeBewt

DripLife
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May 11, 2013
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the rebuildable sections juice channels are lacking... to say the least.. has anyone tried modifying them? a friend suggested drilling holes in the side like the stock coil heads have, but i wanted to see what other people are doing before i possibly ruin my stuff :p

sorry if this has been posted somewhere else already.
 

Uncletattoowhat

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I gave up on my rebuildable! I was very disappointed! Even went back to the shop I bought it at, and the guy was dumbfounded! He had no clue why it was hitting like that. Was thinking of dremeling or drilling it out. Glad to hear that worked for ya!

I tried not to go too extreme on the channels when i dremmeled it. I started with a nail file, but it just wasn't taking away enough material. 30 seconds with a cutting disc and its great. I did start to get some off taste yesterday, but i think it was attributed to the cereal flavor i was vaping at a high wattage. Some juices just can't go that high i suppose.
 

ErnieKim

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Look at the size of the holes in the OCC coils, of course it needs bigger holes. Don't be concerned, you won't hurt it. I would agree with others that you should simply make the existing ones at the bottom bigger. The OCC has holes in the side because that is where the wick is. The wick is at the bottom of the rba, or it's supposed to be anyway.
 

Wruff

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Sep 21, 2014
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I just dremmeled my channels out a little tonight. I was having constant wicking issues and dry hits. Since I did it I haven't had a single dry hit.

I just dremmeled mine. Boy that really did the trick. Very nice and juicy draw now with no evidence of any flooding. Just what the doctor ordered. :thumb:
 

Zod

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Dec 4, 2010
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Yes there was a similar thread to this a while back. Quick fixes are pulling a few threads from the center of the existing coils or inserting a needle in the center of the wet wick to create a juice channel. Dremel to the RBA base helps but airflow is still constricted in the RBA. My best performance is from massively drilling out a stock head to twice the diameter and inserting dual horizontal coils. This rocks but is a ton of work. I also drilled another airhole in the divot directly opposite the cyclops slot.

If you're looking for this kind of performance from a Subtank I suggest just picking up a Freemax Starre. Similar flavor to the Subtank but handles far higher wattages and looser airflow. Also better flavor and more user friendly than my Arctic.
 

dwcraig1

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Mine, with the RBA's , both 25 mm and mini perform extremely well after enlarging the juice channels. On par with the "disposible" heads. 30 watts +

Here's the 510 pin on the full sized Subtank:
11110443_981866505170907_1186033395962030101_n.jpg
 
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