Kanger Subox fixed 510 with other RTA/RDAs?

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Fiatrix

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Has anyone noticed any issues connecting their drippers and non-Kanger tanks to the subox/Kbox mini mod?

I'm thinking of picking up the Subox kit, but I want to be able to attach other toppers to it, and I won't buy it if I'm going to have issues. I'm looking specifically at the Magma RDA, but possibly other RDAs and RTAs. Possibly even the Halo Triton tanks with an adaptor, since I've got four of them. If the box had a spring-loaded 510 I wouldn't think twice, but the fixed pin makes me hesitant.
 

RandyF

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Rumor has it they may be revising it to a spring loaded pin. I just received mine and it may have issues with it not being spring loaded. I think I have pushed the pin down in mine attaching other atty's to it, since now it won't read the STm that came with it. I was able to fix it by replacing the pin in the STm with a pin from the original ST that has the retractable extension, luckily I had a extra one laying around.

The pin in my KBox Mini is now sunk below the washer around it, I don't believe it is suppose to be like that. Still works fine, but now the 510 pin is really deep. I can't see a way to raise it back up. It was just a back up anyway so I am not too worried about it, but if you want to use it on a regular basis I would wait for the inevitable updated version.
 

RandyF

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They didn't make the KBox Mini spring loaded because of the way the pin on the ST's are designed. The ST's need a stiff 510 on the device to push that floating pin on the ST up to make contact with the OCC/RBA (more so the RBA). That is why you will see people using devices like the rDNA40's (with soft spring loaded pins) saying the ST RBA doesn't work.
 
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Hitcat44

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Good Info here as I have a Sub Box/SubTank Mini Kit on the way replacing an old Workhouse CoolFire 1 and MegaTank Rig. Got a KBox/SubTank Mini yesterday on trade too.
So given this Info, will mate only the SubTanks to them and hopefully avoid.
The Kanger Tank (ProTank, AeroTank, and MegaTank) Pins have always been quirky about making good connections due to their design. So makes sense why the Kanger Box Pins are the way they are as described above.

Thanks for this Thread and the Intel.

P.s. Maybe they already have upgraded the Pin (or just an error?)
Per Kangertech USA, the Kbox has a "spring-loaded Pin"
KangerTech US Electronic Cigarettes - Kanger Official Website
Have to check mine at the House to confirm.
 
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Fiatrix

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They didn't make the KBox Mini spring loaded because of the way the pin on the ST's are designed. The ST's need a stiff 510 on the device to push that floating pin on the ST up to make contact with the OCC/RBA (more so the RBA). That is why you will see people using devices like the rDNA40's (with soft spring loaded pins) saying the ST RBA doesn't work.
I thought it was only the full sized Kanger tank that has a spring loaded pin, not the mini. Is this incorrect? And the Subox kit seems to come with the mini.
 

Hitcat44

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Tanks, RDAs, RTAs, etc. have either a Floating or an Adjustable Pin. If it has a Flat or a Phillips female indention on the bottom of the Pin, it's obviously Adjustable.
Kanger is known to have Floater Pins on theirs and have not heard or read of any plans to change that on their part.
The Spring-Loaded question is regaling the Kbox and the Kbox Mini (Sub Box).
 

Fiatrix

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Tanks, RDAs, RTAs, etc. have either a Floating or an Adjustable Pin. If it has a Flat or a Phillips female indention on the bottom of the Pin, it's obviously Adjustable.
Kanger is known to have Floater Pins on theirs and have not heard or read of any plans to change that on their part.
The Spring-Loaded question is regaling the Kbox and the Kbox Mini (Sub Box).
Thank you for clearing that up for me. :) So basically the Kanger tanks have a pin that doesn't move and cannot be adjusted, which is why some people have issues making a connection (or opposingly sit above the mod with a gap)? I suppose that makes much more sense. I think I came across some misleading information yesterday.
 

Hitcat44

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I does "move" a tad. It "floats" meaning it has a fixed short Range of Motion dependent upon the Top Pos Pin of the Power Source/Mod/Battery to push it up and engage the Input Pin of its Coil (in the Kanger) due to it having a screw-in separate Coil as opposed to a direct to Pos Pin Coil. As such, it can be quirky dependent upon the design and Range of Motion of the Power Source's Top Pin.
They have to "mate" properly to have an efficient and effective transfer of Power and the design of the Kangers (Tanks etc.) can limit that in happening.

The Kanger Boxes are designed specifically to "mate" to their Tanks etc. as makes sense and one would expect. Other Devices mating to them (either side of the Rig) can be tenuous and troublesome depending on the Designs. That's why some dislike Kanger in general. They are somewhat Proprietary in Nature so can limit the Equip/Devices one uses in conjunction with them. Not a Given but does occur.

To mate a non-Kanger Power Device to the Kanger Tank, a Spring-loaded Top Pin is better and a true "adjustable" Top Pos Pin is the best to insure a proper transfer of Power every time.
I find that to be true with Any & All Tanks/RDAs/RTAs/etc as I have several different Brands, Makes, and Designs of Equipment on both sides so logically I don't put that all on Kanger solely.

To mate a non-Kanger Tank to a Kanger Kbox can be frustrating, not perform properly, and/or (as some have said-I have no 1st hand experience with this yet) damage or ruin the Kbox Top Pin rendering it a "brick". Kanger supposedly is working on or has already corrected this flaw on the newer Versions of the Kbox & Kbox Mini (Sub box). We shall see.
I personally have not mated anything other than the SubTank Mini to my Kbox so can't advise or add to that Intel.
I have a SubBox Mini Kit in route and plan to look at it very closely and carefully before attempting to mate a non-Kanger Tank/RDA to it.

In the end the thing to take from all this and what others have said is;
Do your best to get a Mod/Power Source that has either a true Spring-loaded or an adjustable Top Pos Pin and Tanks/RDAs/RTA/s that have true Adjustable Pins as well.
That will insure the best chances for a proper Mating on all Device Combos regardless of Make & Model or Design which won't render you limited, torqued, and with a bad case of Buyer's Remorse.

This doesn't mean you have wasted or will waste your Cash by any means. You at the worst have only limited your mating choices and options.
It's still all good.
I'm a Fan of the Magmas and still own one. Depending on the Brand of the Clone, it may or may not have an adjustable Pin. I suggest going to a local Vape Shop that carries the Magmas like the one you own (or take yours if they will let you attempt) and the Kbox or Kbox Mini. Insist they confirm the mating and operation of that Combo before buying one.
You will then know for sure.
The Kbox is a fine Device IMO so far and works well (with SubTanks), nice Size and Ergonomics, versatile yet Simple. I like it. For me, it's still a good Deal and I have no issue with it at all even if I can only mate Kanger SubTanks to it.
But then again, I have several other Mods and RDAs/RTAs as well so am not expecting as much from it as you or others possible do or will.
I bought it and another for use outside doing Yard-Work and Farm chores as well as a compact non-Dripper for going to Eat-out, Movies, etc. For those purposes, the Kbox and SubTanks perform and suit just fine with zero complaints. So far,,,,,
 
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RandyF

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I thought it was only the full sized Kanger tank that has a spring loaded pin, not the mini. Is this incorrect? And the Subox kit seems to come with the mini.
Correct, but I ordered just the pins a while back. The full size pins work in the mini's.
IMG_20150617_061008403.jpg


The only way I would be able to push it up would be from underneath, and I don't think I want to open it up and see if it is possible. The pin swap (pic above) in the tank is working good anyway.
IMG_20150617_061043174_HDR.jpg
 
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Fiatrix

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I does "move" a tad. It "floats" meaning it has a fixed short Range of Motion dependent upon the Top Pos Pin of the Power Source/Mod/Battery to push it up and engage the Input Pin of its Coil (in the Kanger) due to it having a screw-in separate Coil as opposed to a direct to Pos Pin Coil. As such, it can be quirky dependent upon the design and Range of Motion of the Power Source's Top Pin.
They have to "mate" properly to have an efficient and effective transfer of Power and the design of the Kangers (Tanks etc.) can limit that in happening.

The Kanger Boxes are designed specifically to "mate" to their Tanks etc. as makes sense and one would expect. Other Devices mating to them (either side of the Rig) can be tenuous and troublesome depending on the Designs. That's why some dislike Kanger in general. They are somewhat Proprietary in Nature so can limit the Equip/Devices one uses in conjunction with them. Not a Given but does occur.

To mate a non-Kanger Power Device to the Kanger Tank, a Spring-loaded Top Pin is better and a true "adjustable" Top Pos Pin is the best to insure a proper transfer of Power every time.
I find that to be true with Any & All Tanks/RDAs/RTAs/etc as I have several different Brands, Makes, and Designs of Equipment on both sides so logically I don't put that all on Kanger solely.

To mate a non-Kanger Tank to a Kanger Kbox can be frustrating, not perform properly, and/or (as some have said-I have no 1st hand experience with this yet) damage or ruin the Kbox Top Pin rendering it a "brick". Kanger supposedly is working on or has already corrected this flaw on the newer Versions of the Kbox & Kbox Mini (Sub box). We shall see.
I personally have not mated anything other than the SubTank Mini to my Kbox so can't advise or add to that Intel.
I have a SubBox Mini Kit in route and plan to look at it very closely and carefully before attempting to mate a non-Kanger Tank/RDA to it.

In the end the thing to take from all this and what others have said is;
Do your best to get a Mod/Power Source that has either a true Spring-loaded or an adjustable Top Pos Pin and Tanks/RDAs/RTA/s that have true Adjustable Pins as well.
That will insure the best chances for a proper Mating on all Device Combos regardless of Make & Model or Design which won't render you limited, torqued, and with a bad case of Buyer's Remorse.

This doesn't mean you have wasted or will waste your Cash by any means. You at the worst have only limited your mating choices and options.
It's still all good.
I'm a Fan of the Magmas and still own one. Depending on the Brand of the Clone, it may or may not have an adjustable Pin. I suggest going to a local Vape Shop that carries the Magmas like the one you own (or take yours if they will let you attempt) and the Kbox or Kbox Mini. Insist they confirm the mating and operation of that Combo before buying one.
You will then know for sure.
The Kbox is a fine Device IMO so far and works well (with SubTanks), nice Size and Ergonomics, versatile yet Simple. I like it. For me, it's still a good Deal and I have no issue with it at all even if I can only mate Kanger SubTanks to it.
But then again, I have several other Mods and RDAs/RTAs as well so am not expecting as much from it as you or others possible do or will.
I bought it and another for use outside doing Yard-Work and Farm chores as well as a compact non-Dripper for going to Eat-out, Movies, etc. For those purposes, the Kbox and SubTanks perform and suit just fine with zero complaints. So far,,,,,
Thank you so much, this was an incredibly helpful and informational post. Whew. I still don't know which mod, tank, and dropped I will purchase yet, but I feel much better informed now to make those decisions. Please let us know what you find when you get the chance to inspect and play with your Subox kit!
 
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