Kanger subtank / istick sweet spot

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Leon1972

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It's more than just net resistance to wattage. It can depend on the wire gauge and parallel coil count to determine an optimal build to wattage value... that will provide a desirable (somewhat user subjective) heat flux.

See the first two sigline hyperlinks below for more information.

Well for me it's whatever the stock coils are. I don't rebuild. I use the 1.2 occ kanger coils
 

edyle

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Hey guys. So I'm running the kanger subtank 1.2ohm with a istick 20w. I see several people running this same setup running 13-15w as the sweet spot. I go anything above 12 mine tastes burnt. Why is this?

Different juices have different sweet spots.

People vaping in winter probably vape higher wattages than people vaping in mexico.
 

VIPOD

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I'm vaping the stock coil 1.2ohm at 14watts, using a 30pg/70vg blend as we speak. However, if I change the juice viscosity to 100vg, I lower the wattage between the 11-12w range. So yes, different juices have their sweet spots. After filling the tank, fiddle with the wattage, hit your sweet spot and forget about what everyone else is setting their wattage at.
 

Zod

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After having 2 Subtanks, a mini and a Nano, several builds on the RBA deck, gutting and rebuilding, gutting drilling and experimenting with the stock heads I'd say the set it and forget it for the 1.2 ohm heads is 22.7 watts for lung hits, 14 watts for M2L. Below or above that by +/- 2+ watts gives noticeable weaker flavor. You should NOT be getting burning at those wattages as these heads easily wick to 27 watts although I got a few clone heads given to me and they were indeed packed way too tightly.

Take some tweezers and pull a few threads of cotton from the center of the wick holes or insert a needle through the center while it's wet to create a juice channel through the core of the coil.
 

gpjoe

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Pretty simple really - if I get a burnt hit, I turn down the wattage. I really don't pay attention to what others do, or the "recommended" wattage. There is a balance between the amount of vapor you want and going so high that you start to burn, or get dry hits because the wick can't keep up with the wattage.

I vape my .5 ohm Kanger OCC at 10 watts and my 1.2 ohm coils at 20 watts, 25 max. Never get burnt hits with either, even using high VG and I still get enough vapor - tons more than any carto or clearomizer could ever produce.
 

tehmidcap

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I'd like to know... Which conserves more battery power: Running a slightly lower wattage and taking slightly longer drags or running higher wattage with shorter drags? Or would it basically result in about the same power consumption? The same goes for higher power on higher resistance and lower power on lower resistance.. It all equals about the same vapor production, but does it all use the same amount of power? (I guess what I'm asking is if vapor production is directly proportional to power consumption or is there a technique to cheat and get the same amount of vapor using less battery?)

I'm also curious to know how long a fire press everyone averages, though I'm sure it varies greatly.

So far I'm definitely noticing somewhere between 3-4 seconds is my average. How about you?
 

militantomg

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Also, does everyone's 0.5occ coils read as .7 on your IStick?

Is the difference due to the IStick estimation or to slightly varying occ coil builds?

Most of mine read .6 on my isticks. However, when using my RBA which is build to .69 on my subtank, on my IPV it reads .6 and on my isticks it reads .7. Seems like the isticks round up and the Yihi chips dont.
 

gpjoe

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Also, does everyone's 0.5occ coils read as .7 on your IStick?

Is the difference due to the IStick estimation or to slightly varying occ coil builds?

Just checked one of mine and is says .6 ohms. It could be either the coil or the ohm meter on the iStick, but either way .01 ohms will hardly make a difference. Even so, it is possible that Kager targets .5, and sells them as .5, but the reality is if the coils is .4 or .6 it's probably close enough. If they tried to nail .5 every time and tossed out anything else they would go broke (well, I doubt it but you get the point). There are always tolerances in manufacturing. If the spec says .5 ohms it's +/- some variance and still considered OK.
 

vincom

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Just checked one of mine and is says .6 ohms. It could be either the coil or the ohm meter on the iStick, but either way .01 ohms will hardly make a difference. Even so, it is possible that Kager targets .5, and sells them as .5, but the reality is if the coils is .4 or .6 it's probably close enough. If they tried to nail .5 every time and tossed out anything else they would go broke (well, I doubt it but you get the point). There are always tolerances in manufacturing. If the spec says .5 ohms it's +/- some variance and still considered OK.
accurately measuring resistance that low varies on a lot of factors.
also viewing at one decimal it depends on the round off number.
0.56 will show 0.6
0.54 will show 0.5
so 0.5 or 0.6 i wouldnt fret over it
 
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