Just ordered one. Can anyone tell me anything in particular I need to know about it?
It comes with the Subtank Mini
It comes with the Subtank Mini
kangerTech Subox Mini - questions
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i want to buy the box as soon as fastech has it in stock or i see it elsewhere for cheap
I love my subox mini. I do not love the subtank mini.
I recommend a silicone case, fasttech has one for under $2. The paint chips Very easily. Like, gently setting it on a table, easily.
The battery indicator on mine seems a bit off, it shows less battery when charging than when unplugged. It also seems to go down fast once it gets to 3 bars, but stays at 4 (max) for a long time.
A warning about the tank it comes with, some people, like the poster above, say it works well from 20-35 watts, but I can't run mine above 15 well, at any resistance I've tried in the rba, or the .5 coil it came with. Either get dry hits fast or it just tastes...bad. I'm making a 1.5 ohm build work for now with 13 watts.
Anyway, just my experience. Hope you enjoy both the mod and tank.
I recommend a silicone case, fasttech has one for under $2. The paint chips Very easily. Like, gently setting it on a table, easily.
The battery indicator on mine seems a bit off, it shows less battery when charging than when unplugged. It also seems to go down fast once it gets to 3 bars, but stays at 4 (max) for a long time.
A warning about the tank it comes with, some people, like the poster above, say it works well from 20-35 watts, but I can't run mine above 15 well, at any resistance I've tried in the rba, or the .5 coil it came with. Either get dry hits fast or it just tastes...bad. I'm making a 1.5 ohm build work for now with 13 watts.
Anyway, just my experience. Hope you enjoy both the mod and tank.
I love mine, and it's my primary vape. I'm running a .7 ohm build in it, and vape it at 25w with zero dry hits. My wife uses the 1ohm VOCC coils in hers, and loves it as well.
Great, I ordered an additional tank. I can see, since I took a year off on reading up on the tech and not buying anything new (reo user) that stuff still has not got any better. I'm surprised that someone smart does not get into this and make a tank that frign works. They'd become a millionaire.
$1.78 Protective Silicone Sleeve Case for KBOX Mini VW APV Box Mod (KBOX Mini, Black) at m.FastTech.com - FastTech Mobile
They call it kbox mini on there. I got a green one and it fits perfectly. Slides up from the bottom
Somrwhat off topic, but this tank is amazing and what I sit on my subox mini!
Ok so I'm new to this world. I've recently quit smoking and just vape now. I bought a subox mini and got a .5 coil with my setup and was camping around 24 watts and it was great. I just replaced my coil with another .5 ohm and I can't even vape above 9 watts without it giving me this terrible burnt taste. I soaked it for about a half hour! What is wrong it has happened with 4 of my coils? Someone give me some help on why I can't vape that high of watts anymore
1. Carefully prime the OCC coils before use.
2. OCC coils are not particularly well made and often give an inconsistent vape.
3. Start using the RBA section as soon as possible. It's much cheaper, and once you master it you will get a better vape than using the OCC coils.
4. Use a higher resistance coils (closer to 1 ohm), and use wattage to get the desired vapor production level. Start low and build it up.
2. OCC coils are not particularly well made and often give an inconsistent vape.
3. Start using the RBA section as soon as possible. It's much cheaper, and once you master it you will get a better vape than using the OCC coils.
4. Use a higher resistance coils (closer to 1 ohm), and use wattage to get the desired vapor production level. Start low and build it up.
I had this problem with my first 0.5 coil thy came with my subox kit. I bought one replacement coil recently to try it again. I chain vape at 44 watts now
I also replaced the tank with a bell cap, my belief is that it wasn't sealed well enough with bad o-rings. It never wicked right. Now it runs swimmingly. I haven't tried the RBA again with the new bell cap yet because the stock coil is wonderful. I have 5 or 10 more coming in the mail.Edit: Throw that coil away, if the cotton is burned or the metal got deformed, it's done for.
For priming, after juicing the coil up inside and out and installing, I turn the airflow to the smallest holes and take lots of quick tiny mouth puffs without inhaling. If the coil fuctions right it will almost flood, then I start raising the watts. I feel like the metal itself needs to be heat-cleaned before taking strong lung hits.
For priming, after juicing the coil up inside and out and installing, I turn the airflow to the smallest holes and take lots of quick tiny mouth puffs without inhaling. If the coil fuctions right it will almost flood, then I start raising the watts. I feel like the metal itself needs to be heat-cleaned before taking strong lung hits.
yah. its a piece of crap. if you get a 999 reading - like i did - dont bother going on you tube to fix it. all these guys say to take the entire thing apart. NO. just go out and buy a new tank - pref from another brand. mine crapped out within 10 days... i ran out and bought a better mod and tank (not kangertech) and then learned i could just change the tank and the kanger worked again. be careful. its a piece of .....
I won't say that any Kanger equipent is in general a piece of crap, but I will say confidently that any mass-produced product, such as any Kanger product, will have more duds and flaws. Simple matter of precision im factories (think of tolerance) - the more you produce, the more machines will stray from the original tolerance, leading to poorer and poorer precision until someonw resets the machines. That's aside from cheap-to-manufacture materials. That being said I still love my T3D coils and tank, but I can't abide the Subtank with its tight airflow and how I had to purchase an aftermarket bell cap to negate the leaky o-rings (which inhibited wicking) - I have no time for a subohm device that depends on air pressure to wick correctly. Every vaper is different, though.
I have to agree with M.W., though. I won't spend money on a device designed to work out-of-box and thn waste hours looking up videos on how to fix it. I did that with the subtank, and it came down to...I just couldn't abide it. So I bought a second Arctic, now I have all three of what I see as vaping style materiels- tootle puffer (Kanger T3D - coils are finicky to PG/VG ratio but bearable), driving subohm tank (Arctic original) and pleasure cruise - usually Sapor Mini (splatter, no leaking issues) dripper.
I wonder about someone that joins a forum just to post on a thread from November to bad mouth a company.
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