Kangertech subtank OCC V-2 rebuild

[byggd]

Yup I do it all the time. Soooo ez.
Take the top off, remove pin & grommet from da bottom, I spin up 3mm 3/4 wrap 26g coils. Cut a strip of cotton, wrap it up, and insert.

I think you are referring to the V1 when you say take the top off. But yes it can be done as gadgetkeith shows ...

for those who want to rebuild the later style vertical occ v2 heads

all you need to do is use the base section to hold the coil shell

screw the ready to rebuild shell into a kanger base fairly tight with fingers

then using a pair of pliers grab the shell itself and pull while giving a slight twist and the complete outer comes off

the first time you do it ,its pretty tight to come off but after a few builds you dont need to use the pliers any more can be done just using fingers

to reveal a inner section then either using fingers or pliers unscrew the remaining part of the coil from the base

remove the bottom contact pin and insulator grommet same as the older coils vert and horizontal etc

the later pin is thicker than the older style and grommet is thinner but as long as you keep pins and grommets together they will interchange between old and new bodies no probs

then you can remove the guts ie coil and wick etc

and you are ready to rebuild like the older v1 vertical heads but without the top cap hassle

another good thing with these newer heads is you can drill out the wicking holes larger for extra juice flow

and if in the highly unlikely chance you then have too much juice flow to the wick all you do is twist the outer shell section to slightly offset the hole alignment and you can pretty much adjust this to control the juice flow

i have seen where some have drilled out the blank sides of the shell so you then have four juice holes the extra two to align with the slots on the inner section for a occ cloud build

hope this helps those wanting to rebuild the newer occ coils that look like one piece

also looking around the web with some of the super fine clapton wire now available its now poss to rebuild like them gold plated expensive ones
View attachment 502543

 

[Nuggit]

Yup, my bad. Long day. I should know better than to post somedays.

 

[TheKman]

I've rebuilt them horizontal for my wife's Nano.

First I gut it from the bottom as best I can to reveal the lip on the inside of the base/inner section. Holding the top/outer in a soft-jaw vice I gently punch out the base from the chimney hole with a pin punch.

After cleaning I reassemble the two parts ready for a horizontal rebuild. There's not a huge amount of air flow through the base , and I've found that 8 wraps of 26ga Titanium @ 3.5mm works well. This size coil can be inserted through the chimney hole.

I never liked using dense cotton for wicking these, so I developed a better way! I make a hollow tube of steel mesh @ 2mm and wrap this in tight cotton then drag it through the juice hole and coil making sure the mesh is exposed at both ends. Cut off the excess and make sure the mesh tube is nice and round and centered.

Finally I reassemble the contacts in the base and put about four drops of juice through the mesh hole to prime.

The build works out to about 0.45 Ohms and seems to be extremely efficient. The vapour is warm, the coil warms up quickly and the tank stays cool, unlike the vertical coils. As a bonus, it can be temp controlled and, of course, works like a pseudo temp controlled coil on a mech mod or direct voltage battery.

My wife is using these on an eGo One 2200 with great success.

If only the rba deck could be made to fit. Necessity is the mother of invention after all.

Edit: 3.5 mm coils, not 3mm.

 

[wheelie]

I rebuild V2 coils but they are a pain. I ordered a bunch of V1's to have on hand for rebuilding. Be aware that V1 of the Subtanks the V2 coils do not fit. The stem of the chimney hits the round part of the V2 coil and the tank will not screw down enough. CHEERS!

V1 = Version 1
V2 = Version 2