Kangertech T3S on a Cool Fire 4

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polarbearted

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Mar 18, 2016
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I was wondering what type of settings I should use on my Cool Fire 4 with the T3S. The T3S is using a 1.8 ohm Atomizer. I want to know if I should use the Voltage setting or Wattage, and what level one or both should be at. What I'm going for is a big wet hit, not too hot, but enough to fill my lungs up. I do take .... and hot knife hits, and have been vaping with my Vision Spinners, e-go upgrades and such for about 4-5 years. I just recently decided to get into using a MOD, and choose the Cool Fire 4, as in the future I want to upgrade my tank to a Kangertech subox mini or something along those lines. I'm running 50/50 juicy peach from East Coast Vape located in the maritimes. Not sure what else to state, if any additional info is required for an accurate response, please ask.

Thanks, Polarbearted
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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+1 on the previous post. I would suggest looking at a tank upgrade like the Aspire Nautilus Mini which has a 510 connection. The next step above that would be into sub ohm gear.
Cool-Fire-4-Hand-hold_zpsegpki5fu.jpg
 
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djsvapour

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Ahh, the Kanger T3S. I had a good few of those the rebuilt the heads many a time.

I've seen 9.5w using TOCC and possibly 11w using homemade. That's about the highest you can go.

I remember the first one I had... I'd driven half way down the country to visit a famous vaping shop. Bought the clearos (2) and a bottle of apple and pear. Delicious.

I never entirely solved the gurgling, but fond memories.

I would 'top' a Coolfire 4 with an Eleaf GS tank for a good MTL. Otherwise, I think I'd go the obvious route and buy a iSub Apex or iSub S.
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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Just so everyone knows, I have no clue about ohms, voltage and wattage stuff. This is my first mod, so when people say low wattage or voltage I don't know about that. Maybe Someone could tell me ohms to voltage or wattage ratio and some more info. Also I am getting a sub ohm kanger tech subox mini for my cool fire 4.
The Kanger Subtank Mini is a great tank for learning to make your own coils using the rba (easy and CHEAP). The first best advice I can give is you will probably have to cut your nicotine level in half or more when you use this tank. It is a large increase in volumn of vapor, and will seem like it's guzzling the juice. Twice the juice = twice the nicotine.

With the Coolfire you press the POWER button and PLUS button for 1 second together to set the mod to read watts/volts. Most people use watts. With the tank you now have turn the Coolfire all the way down using the MINUS button, it should stop at 6 or 8 watts. Thats where you start to find the vape with your existing tank.

The Subtank will come with different coils (rba usually is prewired and needs wicked at .5 ohms) On the side of every coil it should have the resistance of the coil (.5 ohm for example) or the wire type (Ni for nickel + .15 or whatever the resistance will be for temp control coils). On the regular (Kanthal wire) power mode coils it usually will say .5 with the ohm symbol AND 20-35 watts (the recommended power range) for the coil(for example).

ALSO... the coil will need "PRIMED" before use. Put the coil in the bottom half of the tank. Drop a few drops of juice down the open end of the coil (called the coil chimney). Add a drop or two to the side of the coil where you can see the cotton. Put everything together and fill tank. Take a few UNPOWERED draws (I cover the airholes to create greater suction through the coil) to help the coil wick the juice BEFORE use. Let tank sit for a few minutes for natural wicking. (prepping the coil before use will help the coil last longer, as once the cotton gets burnt the coil is done)

BUT.. The rule of thumb for EVERY vape device you'll ever own is the same. Start low power, take a draw and bump it up to repeat. If it starts to taste funny, gets too hot or tastes burnt, back it down. Different flavors will have different sweet spots so you just have to experiment.

If you start with the .5 ohm coil, set the watts to 18 or 20 for the first medium draw. The first couple hits on a new coil are to insure the coil is wicking the juice properly. You don't want full power in case the cotton is not saturated with juice.

I swapped out the wide bore drip tip (mouthpiece) for a cheap plastic 510 sized drip tip that has a more narrow opening. By adjusting the airflow to half or middle setting I can easily mouth to lung vape.

Check out you tubes on Subtank Mini rba wicking/coil building. It will take some practice but once you get it right it's very cheap and very convenient when the coil needs changed.
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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Now is there a difference using watts or volts to my vaping, or are these just different measurements meaning generally the same thing. Also can I have a possibility of blowing up my battery using watts or volts. I've seen a lot of stories of people blowing there hands off, or is this people misusing their devices?
Most (99%) of the accidents involve mech mods or poor/improper batteries. The Coolfire is a regulated mod, which is much much safer. I wouldn't have any concern using the subtank with that mod.

To simply state it, if you set the watts, the mod sets the volts. If you set the volts, the mod sets the watts. It's a safety issue where the mod reads the coil and protects the user.

As you grow into the higher power tanks (sub ohm like the Subtank) most people adjust their power setting in watts. So to keep it simple, set your power to watts, and it will help people quickly understand any issues concerning power with your vape.

It takes a combination of the "different measurements" to create a proper vape. We have a few rocket scientists in the forum who could explain in technical, correct, terms and math, exactly what they do, but I'm not one of them. I know enough to drive between the lines and be able to count my fingers when I finish my vape. (old boring mainstream vaper)
 

polarbearted

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Mar 18, 2016
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Most (99%) of the accidents involve mech mods or poor/improper batteries. The Coolfire is a regulated mod, which is much much safer. I wouldn't have any concern using the subtank with that mod.

To simply state it, if you set the watts, the mod sets the volts. If you set the volts, the mod sets the watts. It's a safety issue where the mod reads the coil and protects the user.

As you grow into the higher power tanks (sub ohm like the Subtank) most people adjust their power setting in watts. So to keep it simple, set your power to watts, and it will help people quickly understand any issues concerning power with your vape.

It takes a combination of the "different measurements" to create a proper vape. We have a few rocket scientists in the forum who could explain in technical, correct, terms and math, exactly what they do, but I'm not one of them. I know enough to drive between the lines and be able to count my fingers when I finish my vape. (old boring mainstream vaper)
So I should use watts to get ready for when I upgrade from my T3S to a kanger subtank, or just continue using volts till I get a new tank.

Also what is the highest volts/watts I should use on my T3S 1.8 ohm atty
 

Sir2fyablyNutz

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So I should use watts to get ready for when I upgrade from my T3S to a kanger subtank, or just continue using volts till I get a new tank.

Also what is the highest volts/watts I should use on my T3S 1.8 ohm atty
I would set it to watts. Turn the mod down in watts (Power button + PLUS for one second) to the very lowest setting (probably 6 or 8 watts). Take a draw and see how it vapes at that setting. Increase by 1 watt at a time if desired, stop and back off if it gets to warm, starts to taste funny or burnt.
 
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