Kayfun build for best wicking and flavor and decent vapor

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AskJoey

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Mar 27, 2013
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I am getting bad vapor production, bad flavor, and dry hits on a .9 build. I am using the figure 8 method, and I really did not stuff the wicks in there. I am so frustrated, I've built this like 10 times over the weekend!! Any tips about coils, loop or no loop, ekowool thickness, wick length, placement is chamber etc would be really appreciated.

After I get out of class I'm heading to the vape shop for wick and wire and I'm not leaving til I get a great build on it! Feel free to post pics too. Thanks!
 

Aoi~

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I build all my Kayfuns this way. Pictured is 2mm Eko and 30g Kanthal.
 
1. Take a mini screw driver that is approximately 2 mm in diameter

2. Wrap 10 coils of 28 ga. Kanthal as close together as possible onto the screw driver.

3. Trap and tighten your wires onto the posts with the coil still wrapped onto the screw driver.

4. With the posts tight, gently lift the coil (still wrapped around the screw driver) away from the air hole to a distance of approximately 2 mm. You can use the screw driver you wrapped the coil on as a guide. If you need more space, re-insert the screw driver and lift again. The spacing is important to your air flow. To little results in a super tight draw and little vapor production... to much and you get a big cloud and little flavor. You may find that 2mm is too much space and you like a little tighter draw, there is no right or wrong here, unless you're shorting your coil and melting the isolator.

5. remove your screwdriver and test you coil resistance. Mine are 1.4~1.5 ohm. if the meter doesn't jump when you flick the wire ends, they're good, clip them.

6. Fire you coil until it's glowing red hot. Release the button and squeeze the coil with a small pair of needle nose pliers. You may have to do this a few times, you looking for each wrap to appear to be touching the wrap next to it, keeping them generally centered over the air hole.

7. Take a small amount of sterile cotton and twist it into a yarn like thread just small enough to pull through the coil without fraying, this takes some practice.

8. Apply juice (never fire a dry cotton wick) and assemble lower chamber collar. Trim the cotton about 1/4 inch above the rim of the collar and tuck the ends down their respective chamber sides, remembering not to block the juice channels.

9. Test fire. if all is well you should get a good sizzle and some vape, blow gently across the open chamber and you should see a decent cloud forming.

10, If you're satisfied, complete the assembly, fill and enjoy. You should get a thick, luxurious cloud which will vary depending on the length and intensity of your draw. You can disassemble down to the bare coil (gently remove the old cotton wick), dry burn the gunk off the coil and have a vape nearly as good as a new coil until it finally breaks.
 
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Sweeperdk

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I've been using a micro coil with cotton and the navy nest method. Just built it yesterday, but so far it's great. Prior to that I was using the 'standard' cotton wicking method. Both seemed to work well, but I think there is a definite flavor boost to the navy nest method.

I have to agree on this. I have tried so many different setups that I have lost count, but this one really works. I think it may be because the additional silica reduces the chamber somewhat.
 

Gummy Bare

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i'm still messing with all kinds of builds myself. I've done normal ones, figure 8 ones, ex. sometimes it works grate, but sometimes i get dry hits still. not sure why really. I thought it was because i was blocking the juice channels, but even when i pull the wick up a bit away from the channels it still seems to happen. I'm a chain vaper, so the first 3-4 hits are just fine, but the next one or two after that i start getting dry hits.

I wish i liked cotton, but all the cotton yarn i used (boiled, white, no dies in it) seem to have a funny taste to it. Even when i'm not burning it.

I wish i could find a perfect build that could keep up with my vaping style. I guess i'll have to keep trying. I tend to use ekowool the most, but try regular silica here and there as well. I usually keep the ohms around 1.0, but have been trying 1.2-1.4 to try and keep the dry hits away. I never get flooding issues.... so i guess that's a good thing.
 
I've been using a micro coil with cotton and the navy nest method. Just built it yesterday, but so far it's great. Prior to that I was using the 'standard' cotton wicking method. Both seemed to work well, but I think there is a definite flavor boost to the navy nest method.

Interesting. I can't do silica, so I may try that when my chimney is finito...
 

rastapete69

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Dec 27, 2013
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1. Take a mini screw driver that is approximately 2 mm in diameter

2. Wrap 10 coils of 28 ga. Kanthal as close together as possible onto the screw driver.

3. Trap and tighten your wires onto the posts with the coil still wrapped onto the screw driver.

4. With the posts tight, gently lift the coil (still wrapped around the screw driver) away from the air hole to a distance of approximately 2 mm. You can use the screw driver you wrapped the coil on as a guide. If you need more space, re-insert the screw driver and lift again. The spacing is important to your air flow. To little results in a super tight draw and little vapor production... to much and you get a big cloud and little flavor. You may find that 2mm is too much space and you like a little tighter draw, there is no right or wrong here, unless you're shorting your coil and melting the isolator.

5. remove your screwdriver and test you coil resistance. Mine are 1.4~1.5 ohm. if the meter doesn't jump when you flick the wire ends, they're good, clip them.

6. Fire you coil until it's glowing red hot. Release the button and squeeze the coil with a small pair of needle nose pliers. You may have to do this a few times, you looking for each wrap to appear to be touching the wrap next to it, keeping them generally centered over the air hole.

7. Take a small amount of sterile cotton and twist it into a yarn like thread just small enough to pull through the coil without fraying, this takes some practice.

8. Apply juice (never fire a dry cotton wick) and assemble lower chamber collar. Trim the cotton about 1/4 inch above the rim of the collar and tuck the ends down their respective chamber sides, remembering not to block the juice channels.

9. Test fire. if all is well you should get a good sizzle and some vape, blow gently across the open chamber and you should see a decent cloud forming.

10, If you're satisfied, complete the assembly, fill and enjoy. You should get a thick, luxurious cloud which will vary depending on the length and intensity of your draw. You can disassemble down to the bare coil (gently remove the old cotton wick), dry burn the gunk off the coil and have a vape nearly as good as a new coil until it finally breaks.

My method exactly and works perfectly, although I like to stick a dental pick down and spread the cotton wick a little hoping to improve the flow
 
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manji1

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Mar 11, 2013
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Great video but an hour to overnight!?!?! Watchootalkinboutwillis?

This is an old video made before cotton wicking was fully explored or really understood. Now I generally wick with rolled cotton and let it soak about 2mins before firing. Sorry if this video caused any confusion.

Sent from the astral plane via HTC one
 

igottasrt8

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Feb 1, 2014
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Lost Angels
This is an old video made before cotton wicking was fully explored or really understood. Now I generally wick with rolled cotton and let it soak about 2mins before firing. Sorry if this video caused any confusion.

Sent from the astral plane via HTC one

No confusion. I've been vaping over a year now and learn something new every day.
 

Claviger

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Feb 21, 2014
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Honolulu, HI
Having tried coil size from 1mm to 3mm, cotton twisted balls, qtips, silica, angled coil, vertical coil, 60 degree coil, lots of wick, very little wick and everything in between including dual coils, clapton coil, twisted 30, 28, 32, triple twisted 32 and other setups I can't think of atm the below method is THE best period. Ensure whatever you do use a 2-2.5 mm diameter 6/7 twist coil as minimum. If long pulls induce dry hits, either build .1 ohm higher or reduce inner coil diameter a step and add another twist to increase wick exposure surface area while maintaining resistance of the coil.

At .7ohm, 25 gauge 6/7 2.2mm I can blow dripper like clouds if I chose to or do 2-3 second pulls and get decent clouds with crazy flavor! Runs till the kayfun is too hot to touch with bare hands without burnt taste too!


Video is not me, just the guy who taught me the best method :p

My wife has my other Kayfun on a lavatube with a 2.0 ohm coil build this way using 30 gauge. Havn't changed wick in 3 days, still tastes great, not a single flood or dry hit. Her level of understanding is "Push button, get vapor" ....


Twisted cotton burns much easier than fluffy, it does wick and hold a lot of fluid but it doesn't transport the fluid along its fiber axis nearly as fast as fluffy cotton does.
 
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