Kayfun lite plus black clone edition
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Love my Kayfun "Black Russian" especially with the nano tank kit and the quartz nano kit I will be getting soon. Love how you can upgrade this tank. Last tank I'll be buying for awhile, well until I get an authentic R91%.
Ordered an ehpro kayfun lite + and now wish I had ordered this one :/
maybe i'll sell it for cheap on the classifieds to help pay for the black edition
maybe i'll sell it for cheap on the classifieds to help pay for the black edition
Anyone else have luck drilling out the air hole? The stock one is too tight even with the afc screw out for comfortable lung hits. I feel like I'm sucking through a mixing straw. I checked for any airflow obstructions and didn't have any.. except for the bottom plastic insulator which was partially blocking the two horizontal holes in the center post. I trimmed that down and still the draw is too tight even with swapped drip tips.
Plenty of people have drilled out their air holes, but there are a couple things to remember. First is that it is pointless to drill out the air hole any larger than 1/16". This is about the size of the hole in the center pin. Going any bigger won't do you any good and will only be more difficult to accomplish. No matter what you do, you aren't going to get a wide open RDA type draw on a Kayfun, nor would you want to. You need a certain amount of resistance to the draw to maintain the vacuum inside the tank. Second, attempting to drill out stainless steel on anything other than a drill press or Bridgeport with a vise and preferably some cutting fluid is going to lead to you having a bad time. Some have had success attempting the task with a hand-held drill, but I wouldn't even consider trying it.
I'm glad that you mentioned the insulator partially covering the hole in the center pin because I was just about to post about that. This wasn't an issue with the first Black Edition I received, but it was with the next tow. I think that a number of people that have noticed any significant difference in airflow between the Black and legit KFL+/R91 and have ruled out other common obstructions may be running I to this issue.
It's an easy fix. 2 minutes and an emery board, gently sanding the narrow end down until the insulator clears the hole.
I'm getting juice coming out of the air hole. Every draw gurgles and seems to be flooded. It was working fine until I kept accidentally covering the air hole with my finger (did it about 4 times), now it seems to be flooded and won't go away and juice leaks out of the air hole.
Anything I can do to fix this besides taking it all apart and starting over?
Anything I can do to fix this besides taking it all apart and starting over?
Ok, that worked, thank you. If I kept blowing, the juice kept coming out, so I stopped but it didn't leak anymore.
Anyway, now I'm getting muted flavour. Unrelated to that I'm sure, but nevertheless, it's strange because when I first set it up it was flavour city, but now, it tastes like all the other things I gave up on because there was no flavour, just some sweetness.
I've set up a dripper with a micro coil and cotton using the same juice and it tastes much better (it's Black Cavendish NET juice).
Anyway, now I'm getting muted flavour. Unrelated to that I'm sure, but nevertheless, it's strange because when I first set it up it was flavour city, but now, it tastes like all the other things I gave up on because there was no flavour, just some sweetness.
I've set up a dripper with a micro coil and cotton using the same juice and it tastes much better (it's Black Cavendish NET juice).
If it floods really badly, like it seems yours did, it will keep the coil from getting hot enough and the flavor will be muted. Sounds like your wicks may not be quite right.
It takes some fiddling to get the wicks right, but once you do, it's as close to dripping as you can get.
Hmm, is it possible I have too much cotton in there which is wicking too much juice? I cut mine like it was suggested (width of body), but maybe it's a little too thick? I dunno.. it worked great at first, but after it started flooding/leaking, the flavour went downhill.
Maybe I'll suck it up and build it again... not like I have anything else to do tonight anyway.
Been following this thread and getting lost in all the versions. What's the best kayfun lite + clone for under $40? Or am I really best spending the $50?
Pat S.
Sent from my Note 2
Pat S.
Sent from my Note 2
I've been following some too and I don't know how to answer your question because it seems to be hit and miss on all the clones. I think my next purchase will be the cheap (12.xx) ss one from FT. No air flow control but I'll just drill it out a little if the air flow doesn't suit me. I'm thinking it's good bang for the buck even if it's not the best. Either that or pick another tobeco (26.xx).
I got 2 of the black editions in today. The shipping made fasttech actually seem fast but I guess I will cut the seller and USPS a little slack since there was some "severe weather" in Atlanta (2 inches of snow shut down a major city, come on Atlanta). These are my fist Kayfun style tanks and I have no real high end gear.
If I didn't know better I would swear these were machined in different factory's. One of them the threads are not totally smooth but not really that bad. The other one crunchy threads may be a understatement, but they should wear in.
I built them both with 1.3 ohm 28ga kanthal micro coils around a 5/64 drill bit, 9 wraps. This setup seems to work great while the wickd are wet. The build decks seem nice and I had no problems getting the screws tightened onto the kanthal. I have mostly put microcoils into protank heads with cotton ball wicks and have a good feel for wicking them.
The one with the smoother threading is giving me wicking troubles. I burnt up the first cotton wick I put in it. After inspecting it I noticed that the juice channels, the horizontal and vertical ones, don't meet up and there is some left over piece of metal blocking them. If either cut would have been 1mm longer I am thinking it would wick a lot better. I tried leaving the chimney 1 turn loose but I think it tightened back down when I put the top cap back on, I now have the airflow closed off a little to see it that helps, but its not lookiing good, guess some modding is in order. I haven't taken the other one apart yet to check the channels since it is working very well.
They both whistle once you start to close off the air flow but not when it is opened up. They also both have a great finish and look great on my mods. I ended up with one that has ok threading but wicking problems and one that has crunchy threads but is wicking great. Both have some of my DIY 70/30 juice in them. The one that is working well has really won me over on the design of the kayfun, now I just need to figure out the wicking issue on the other one and these will totally be my all day vape.
I am loving the flavor and vapor on the one that is working well. Now I just got to get the other one to work as well. Anyone got any ideas?
If I didn't know better I would swear these were machined in different factory's. One of them the threads are not totally smooth but not really that bad. The other one crunchy threads may be a understatement, but they should wear in.
I built them both with 1.3 ohm 28ga kanthal micro coils around a 5/64 drill bit, 9 wraps. This setup seems to work great while the wickd are wet. The build decks seem nice and I had no problems getting the screws tightened onto the kanthal. I have mostly put microcoils into protank heads with cotton ball wicks and have a good feel for wicking them.
The one with the smoother threading is giving me wicking troubles. I burnt up the first cotton wick I put in it. After inspecting it I noticed that the juice channels, the horizontal and vertical ones, don't meet up and there is some left over piece of metal blocking them. If either cut would have been 1mm longer I am thinking it would wick a lot better. I tried leaving the chimney 1 turn loose but I think it tightened back down when I put the top cap back on, I now have the airflow closed off a little to see it that helps, but its not lookiing good, guess some modding is in order. I haven't taken the other one apart yet to check the channels since it is working very well.
They both whistle once you start to close off the air flow but not when it is opened up. They also both have a great finish and look great on my mods. I ended up with one that has ok threading but wicking problems and one that has crunchy threads but is wicking great. Both have some of my DIY 70/30 juice in them. The one that is working well has really won me over on the design of the kayfun, now I just need to figure out the wicking issue on the other one and these will totally be my all day vape.
I am loving the flavor and vapor on the one that is working well. Now I just got to get the other one to work as well. Anyone got any ideas?
I have all 3 of my clones running on "Ready-X-Wick" (XC-116). I had set them up with both regular silica and Ekowool but switched them out for various reasons. Seems to work better for me. Easier to build, easier to clean, lasts a long time. One of mine has actually been recoiled twice on the same wick. Torches absolutely sparkling clean even after dark sweet juices. Only downside is the initial cost.
Hmmm...maybe Tobeco will be it then. I don't want to spend tons of I don't like it. I am avid on Evod, but I rebuild mine, so I know about wrapping a coil. Mostly curious about the micro coil and cotton, instead of silica.
Pat S.
Sent from my Note 2
ive got 5ft of RBA xc-116 that i havnt been able to get to work in my pt mini heads and was wondering how it would work in these kayfun clones.. do you happen to have any pics of your setups with the xc? thanks again!
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