I got mine today. I will do my first build this weekend.
I have noticed that the tank is plastic. Will it crack if I use harder juices?
I have noticed that the tank is plastic. Will it crack if I use harder juices?
Kayfun lite plus black clone edition
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What in fact are you disagreeing with? Because I think I made it clear that having juice channels that are deep enough, especially where they meet up with and connect to the chimney is of large importance. However, it doesn't mean that the channels have to be as deep as they are on the authentic devices for even a thicker juice to wick properly.
Of course if they don't connect properly to the ones on the inside of the chimney then you will have to alter them.
I'll stipulate that maybe I was lucky enough to get 3 of these Black a Edition clones on 2 separate orders that have deep enough channels that connect well to the ones inside the chimney and wick juice just as well as my KFL+ and R91s.
However, I'll once again wish anyone buying a Chinese clone with "deeper channels" good luck trying to get it to not flood.
I'd rather have a device that I might have to spend a few minutes with a Dremel or drill bit on than I would dealing a device that is constantly flooding and can't be fixed.
Or do you disagree when I say that if you are concerned with precision machining of juice channels that you should spring for the authentic KFL+ or a R91?
Edit: also, I'd suggest that anyone who receives a Black Edition that won't wick properly because it has extremely shallow juice channels, or the channels don't connect well to those inside the chimney, ought to contact the seller and request a replacement deck. Because if the channels are too shallow or don't connect, then it is a defect in your particular device.
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well most of the talk about channel depths were concerns about the channel being too shallow to help wick properly/comparison with the original kfl or R91. I don't think anyone has a particular need for some overly deep channels; just enough to work would be fine. So when you came out and posted that everyone was being overly obsessed with channel depths, it didn't really seem appropriate. Some people and myself have had channels that have "visual difference" from authentic one, and it turned out to be quite a disaster. When you've bought a bunch of these "cheaper" options at $30 to $50 a pop and realize they don't quite work, you too would wanna be more cautious about your next buy and exercise due diligence by asking around. esp if you're someone like me who has the worst luck in the world
Sorry for the wait, here's some pics:
This shows the center pin insulator blocking airflow:
Fixed:
Stock Channels:
Widened/Deepened slightly:
First build attempt: (four picture limit, you'll have to click)
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm17/ucantescape1992/Kayfun Lite Black Edition/k6_zpsf5a60bc6.jpg
First attempt only failed due to juice flow issues. It hit great, better than any device I've owned before, then dry hits. Used it for a while by just priming it all the time with air only draws. Before anyone says "TOO MUCH COTTON!", it wasn't too much cotton. When I tore it apart the wick was still completely mint, even after all the disgusting dry hits. And the next 2 builds I tried less and less cotton, still horrible wicking. I had the cotton with just strands touching the deck, airy and not compressed in the coil, still no dice. I tried every possible airflow position, didn't help.
Running a "Truman" wick now. I'm not getting dry hits, but the flavor and TH aren't there like my first build.
As far as flooding, its hard to get this thing to flood. I wanted to see what it would take to flood it, and it takes alot. The widened channels won't cause flooding, just don't go overboard. Reference pictures of the real thing if you're planning on or need to do it.
Edit: I know the stock channels might not look bad in the first picture, it was more of an issue of the horizontal and vertical channels not meeting deep enough for liquid to make the bend.
This shows the center pin insulator blocking airflow:
Fixed:
Stock Channels:
Widened/Deepened slightly:
First build attempt: (four picture limit, you'll have to click)
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm17/ucantescape1992/Kayfun Lite Black Edition/k6_zpsf5a60bc6.jpg
First attempt only failed due to juice flow issues. It hit great, better than any device I've owned before, then dry hits. Used it for a while by just priming it all the time with air only draws. Before anyone says "TOO MUCH COTTON!", it wasn't too much cotton. When I tore it apart the wick was still completely mint, even after all the disgusting dry hits. And the next 2 builds I tried less and less cotton, still horrible wicking. I had the cotton with just strands touching the deck, airy and not compressed in the coil, still no dice. I tried every possible airflow position, didn't help.
Running a "Truman" wick now. I'm not getting dry hits, but the flavor and TH aren't there like my first build.
As far as flooding, its hard to get this thing to flood. I wanted to see what it would take to flood it, and it takes alot. The widened channels won't cause flooding, just don't go overboard. Reference pictures of the real thing if you're planning on or need to do it.
Edit: I know the stock channels might not look bad in the first picture, it was more of an issue of the horizontal and vertical channels not meeting deep enough for liquid to make the bend.
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Wow those are way wider then my authentic r91 and kfl+
Is the center pin insulator blocking airflow a known problem for these black editions?
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Is the center pin insulator blocking airflow a known problem for these black editions?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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They look worse than they are. With the bottom chimney section on you can still only see a tiny spot of light through. The threads cover a majority of the vertical channel.
I took mine apart last night after I accidentally caused it to short when I tried to adjust the center pin. Opened it up and found the metal block that sits on top of the plastic insulator had turned and was touching the ground.
While it was apart, I noticed the air hole on the center pin was blocked by the plastic insulator, but was unsure what effect this has since it won't necessarily line up when you're tightening the center pin.
Anyway, that positive connector/plastic insulator on the deck now wane to turn every time I go to tighten the center pin, which has to be now or else block moves around.
While it was apart, I noticed the air hole on the center pin was blocked by the plastic insulator, but was unsure what effect this has since it won't necessarily line up when you're tightening the center pin.
Anyway, that positive connector/plastic insulator on the deck now wane to turn every time I go to tighten the center pin, which has to be now or else block moves around.
I think I've seen it mentioned only once before. Even if it is, it took me less than a minute to file down.
Edit: ^^ now twice lol. My positive block moves when I tear it down as well, I just tighten it well and then turn the block straight with pliers. I've never had a short.
But is it anodized?
No.[/QUOTE]
WRONG!!!!!! Mine is annodized.... i dont think all the versions are so i know where you got that from but i know for certain the winsmoke version of the clone is !!!!!!! WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
wow i didnt pay attention to how many pages this had that post was probably answered along time ago lol
i was making micro coils with cotton. 1.4-1.5 ish ohms on a mech mod.. It wasn't "burnt" tasting, but a very burny type harsh hit. Maybe it was the type of cotton I use or that maybe most peoples senses are fried. Even with dripping.. I didn't find it that great. I tried nimbus, igo and trident clones.. I found that unless you do big lung inhales, the flavor isn't all that great.. the flavor on those drippers seems more about getting a big aroma from the exhale.. Its not about the flavor on your tongue directly.. For example I find old school dripping atties like the 306 to have the best flavor for mouth hits.. second is a good working carto.. Cartos get ....ted on i don't know why.. to me they have better flavor than drippers.. In drippers the sweetness of the juice is like cut in half. And before you say I am crazy.. I used to work doing testing with fragrances and taste testing. I have a very keen sense of smell and taste. Vendors are shocked when I can tell them what notes they put in their juices. so maybe i am an idiot and not doing something right with my coils,, but i know its not my sense of taste.
I dont claim to be a taste expert.. so i wont challenge you there but i will proclaim that i am an amateur at building and wicking.. and i have noticed that on some builds the taste is exactly what that you are talking about ....i think i found one reason is using the cotton without boilin it on my kraken ,, now i just got a 3d dripper in last night and have probably done 5 builds on it trying to gt it right and have good flavor,,as i still use carto tanks on my MVP2.0 I wil say cartos do have great flavor better than protanks and i 30's and stuff like that. but a good build on a mod with a dripper or kayfun that i have tasted from others that i didnt build lol taste great and really enhanced the flavor and vapor .. so i agree on part but i think it definetly has to do with the build and wick
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Not sure how you were building yours, but it does sound like a building issue. I don't get any burnt type taste or throat hit from mine. I do however notice the flavour particularly lacking compared to what people rave about with these things. I get lots of vapor, but still don't get much flavour. I know what you mean about the exhale and tasting.. it does seem that if I involve my nose as part of the inhale/exhale process (as I see so many people do in videos), I tend to taste the juice more. Still not getting the kind of flavour I've been dreaming about though. Usually it's just a bit of sweetness with a dull hint of what the juice is supposed to be.
I think my building skills need improvement. It took me forever last night to get a half decent coil... my hands are partially to blame (having problems with my grip, fingers kinda numb).
Everything you said paladinx is build issues, you can make a dripper taste any way you want. You need the right dripper though, the smaller the air chamber the more control over flavor you have.
Unless you want to do a lot of rebuilds a vv/vw device is also necessary.
You want a dripper to taste like a 306 then use stainless steel mesh instead of cotton.
Unless you want to do a lot of rebuilds a vv/vw device is also necessary.
You want a dripper to taste like a 306 then use stainless steel mesh instead of cotton.
I understand and I'm sorry if you felt singled out, because that wasn't the case. That's why I was speaking generally regarding the talk of the depth of juice channels. It's not just the talk in this thread either. I'm not saying nor have I said that it's a non issue. However, I still think that especially when someone is still pretty new to rebuilding or building on these type of devices, that unless the juice channels are visually cut off where they meet up with the chimney, that the first thing to look at is the wicking on a build.
II also wanted to mention a word of caution about investing in a Chinese clone with "deeper" juice channels. I mean, if the tolerances on most of these clones are such that some ed up having channels that are too shallow or barely exist, then it stands to reason that ones advertised with "deeper channels" could end up with units with channels milled too deep. Also, deeper channels doesn't mean that they will meet up properly with the chimney. At least a device with channels too shallow can be modified and fixed. If you get one where they're too deep, it's flood city.
Once again, I can only speak to my experience with these devices. There are other factors involved, one of which is draw strength/length. If you are someone who does direct lung inhales, you are gonna get better juice flow and wicking than someone that takes short, gently mouth to lung hits. I fall into the former category, so maybe that speaks to my lack of wicking issues.
I understand how frustrating it must be for someone to invest $30-50 each in clones and not have them work. I'd be pulling my hair out knowing that for the money I spentthat I could have basically bought two of the authentic devices. That's the Clone Roulette I always talk about. It's just part of the clone game. I know people with drawers full of hundreds and hundreds of dollars worth of clones that are virtually unusable. For the money they spent on those clones, they could have had several very nice authentic mods and atomizers.
You are doing the smart thing by asking questions and researching your next purchase in advance because it'll save you headaches and money in the long run.ever since I had two Vamos die on me early on, I've been very cautious and thorough when considering a Chinese made device. But again, even the most well regarded clones are gonna have duds in the bunch. If you spend $30-50 on a clone of a $100 device, it's to be expected that you'll have to invest at least some minor TLC to get it to function like the original. Even this Black Edition (which I'm a pretty big fan of) required a bit of cleaning and sanding to get it to perform the way I wanted it to.
Riddle me this folks:
One of my clones (I thinnk it's the "black Russian") only works GREAT if I do REALLY gentle, slow pulls. If I give it a "normal" hit (and I'm not talking a sharp inhale, just a regular "breather" type inhale) I get dry hits until I prime it again and let it sit for a few minutes.
I've tried more cotton, less cotton, the "Truman" method, etc. This seems to always happen. THESE channels appear to be the "correct" depth, not shallow like my "Black Edition" KFL.
I'm guess it has to do with how my wicks are placed on the deck. I need a clear chimney for this thing.....
One of my clones (I thinnk it's the "black Russian") only works GREAT if I do REALLY gentle, slow pulls. If I give it a "normal" hit (and I'm not talking a sharp inhale, just a regular "breather" type inhale) I get dry hits until I prime it again and let it sit for a few minutes.
I've tried more cotton, less cotton, the "Truman" method, etc. This seems to always happen. THESE channels appear to be the "correct" depth, not shallow like my "Black Edition" KFL.
I'm guess it has to do with how my wicks are placed on the deck. I need a clear chimney for this thing.....
When you wick it next time make one end of the wick a bit longer and place it over the coil or next to the coil. Been doing this for awhile and I get awesome vapor and flavor production. Hasn't started a fire yet with no dry burns either.
Here's what I'm talking about.
I use a Russian 91 authentic and even with Truman's method and hard pulls I haven't gotten any dry hits. Even when the tank is empty (see it through my tall mtank) I can get a couple of puffs in before the verge of being dry
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Just got my replacement screws for the negative terminal. They do indeed seem a tad bigger then the original screws and have a thicker head as well. They threaded down into the negative terminal just fine and he sent me a full body clear tank as well!
and he sent me a full body clear tank as well!Just got my replacement screws for the negative terminal. They do indeed seem a tad bigger then the original screws and have a thicker head as well. They threaded down into the negative terminal just fine
Where'd you get them from?
Just got my replacement screws for the negative terminal. They do indeed seem a tad bigger then the original screws and have a thicker head as well. They threaded down into the negative terminal just fine
ya i need to find some new screws for my Hcigar KF 3.1 because the screws are rouned all the way around and its really hard to get the coil legs to stay under them when tightened down..
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