I just sent James an email via his website contact form. I hope to get my perfect box mod built!
Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
Interesting little 2x2, first time I got to make one in clear cases: ImageShack(TM) slideshow
Turned out good, those clear cases really try to show off any mistake you make.
James![]()


Looks like the worst mod explosion ever has just happened.
so with the discussion of exploding batteries...
Apparently the guy was in intensive care, with a breathing tube. His face got mashed. This was a Puresmoker V3 with two Tenergy Li-FePo4 batts that blew almost as soon as he hit the switch (according to the report). Teeth knocked out, driptip embedded in the face.
So like I say, if you have a metal tube mod, make sure there are good gas vents and maybe also a blowout plug at the bottom end. The top cap blowing off first is a bad idea. Don't use low-quality Li-FePo4 cells with a rating of 1C or whatever those Tenergy ones are. Real Li-FePo4's have a 4C to 10C rating.
When I started banging on about all this there were many who said I didn't know what I was talking about. After 40 years in engineering, including gunmaking and battery systems, sorry but I do. The proof is lying in a hospital bed.
C rating explanation
Example: a battery is marked as 500mAh. Its maximum discharge is given as 500ma (half an amp), and this means it has a rating of 1C, and that rating is 0.5 amps (1 x the capacity). All these are the same thing.
If they don't give the C rating by that name, it is the maximum discharge rate.
A standard Li-FePo4 cell has a C rating of 4C to 10C. That means it can safely supply 4 x the capacity or higher, if demanded. So if the battery has an advertised capacity of 500ma, and is rated as 4C, then it can supply 2,000ma or 2 amps (1 amp = 1,000 milliamps).
If it has a 1C rating then it can supply 500ma or 0.5 amp or half an amp. This type of Li-FePo4 is of obviously low quality and should clearly not be used in an e-cigarette, since an atomizer or cartomizer will commonly require between 1.5 amps and 2.5 amps. Asking a cell to supply 3x to 5x (!) its designed load is not safe. Stacking 2 cells and asking it to deliver 5x the design load is not only unsafe, it is going close to the edge. Placing that set-up in an unvented metal pipe is demonstrably unsafe.
Please try to understand the maths behind these common purchase decisions, some vendors do not understand battery systems engineering and cannot protect you - you have to do it yourself.
And please note the following points very carefully, which may help you understand our stance; this is the legal advice we have received:
a. It is not possible to disclaim liability when the products are previously known to be dangerous.
b. A legal action in the case of injury sustained by a buyer of known dangerous products, as is the case here, if supplied with no warnings (as is still the case for some vendors) would almost certainly succeed. The damages (financial compensation) might be substantial.
c. ECF might also be implicated in an action against a Supplier selling dangerous goods that are clearly known to be dangerous and that have no warnings attached, and where ECF also failed to warn buyers.
Battery safety
People need to wake up. Batteries will go wrong, mods will go wrong, chargers will go wrong, users will make mistakes. Get two or more together and you are stacking the odds against you.
Buy the best batteries you can. Don't try to save money on batteries - what is $5 saved if you lose an eye?


It's really one of the reasons I don't sell batteries, they can be volatile and that can actually fall back upon the seller. You win techno, I plan on ordering some 14500 IMR's to replace my current blue wrappers but here is the real question, south of testing them with a reader every few hours how can you tell if they're getting low, do they lose throat hit like other batts do?
James![]()
Yes, throat-hit will drop along with vapor production, and let you know when to swap the battery on an unregulated 3.7v mod. It is more difficult to gauge on regulated voltage / VV mods. It depends upon the low-voltage cut-off of the mod used. If it is say, 2.5v, the batt(s) should be checked every few hours depending upon how much / often you are vaping. In a short time, you will know how long you can vape before changing batteries is necessary. Personally, I usually just swap batteries after a half day of vaping with a fresh set out of habit. (I vape 6-10mls a day)
My AW IMR batteries (14500's, 18650's, and 16340's) are all over 1 year old, (with the exception of 4 new 2000mAh AW IMR 18650's) and still coming off of my Pila charger @ 4.15-4.20v. I have only recently lost one, more than likely due to of the age of the cell, and allowing the voltage to drop too low before I was able to estimate the vape time of the new mod I was using.
Hopefully, when you finish working on my Krescendo "Red Dragon" I will be able to check the actual voltage of at least one cell. (possibly both)
When do you know that your AW IMR batteries are no good? I have 7 14500's that I rotate right now between a ICON tube mod (3.7V) and a Mini Reo. A couple of are coming off my Pila charger at 4.07-4.08, while the other 5 are are coming off at 4.10-4.15v... they're about a year and a half old now
Great battery life on those...Personally, I would just keep an eye on them, and discard any which fall below 4.0v off the charger.


Yes it has been quiet! I'm coming up on one year and I'm thinking of treating myself to a custom James built 18650 evercool. We've talked about it a little in the past. I didn't know if I should bother you here with the new website and all, but it is a custom. Should I just shoot you a PM?