I found this thread in a search for info on 18500 Reo batts. Can't seem to find many opinions on this size.
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As far as I know the best 18490 choices for a Mini Reo are AW or Efest. In my testing of my own 18490 AW and Efest batteries, the Efest's have slightly more capacity. They were all tested with a continuous 1A load down to 3.68V. I have the red Efest 1100 mAh batteries, but they also make the purple ones which are good for 15A. I believe the AW's are also rated at 15A or 16A.
If anyone has more suggestions on 18490/18500, I'm all ears!
If anyone has more suggestions on 18490/18500, I'm all ears!
I'm about to stock up and these are the two I've been teetering between. I actually have both and don't seem to notice much difference so I suppose I'll just go by price comparison?
The rated cycle life of the purple efest is 300 cycles compared to the 500 cycles of the AW. Makes the AW worth the extra $1 in my estimation.
Regarding the VTC5... I guessed that eventually I will build some ridiculously low ohm coils to try and maybe even run them dual... So, I ordered a couple VTC5's from RTD.
Just a few things I'll note.
1) They come really drained. I put them on a 1 amp XTar charger and they took many, many hours to charge.
2) The top wafer is thin and I can see how one might occasionally damage one of these.
3) Excellent performance with my current ohm + coil (1.2 ohms). With this coil, an AW IMR 2000 will get me through a 6 ml bottle with acceptable performance mostly.... that last half ml or so is getting to the low end of what I consider acceptable. With this VTC5, the very last squonk was still well in my preferred range of acceptability. In fact, the bat was only down to 3.6v after vaporizing a full 6ml with that 1.2 ohm coil. I vaped a couple more ml off the next bottle with the same battery before I decided to swap it. It held on to that middle-acceptable range for a long time.
4) These flat tops pretty much forced me to install my button cover. I was having a little trouble getting used to the new feel of the deeper press... but the button cover fixed that right up.
Just a few things I'll note.
1) They come really drained. I put them on a 1 amp XTar charger and they took many, many hours to charge.
2) The top wafer is thin and I can see how one might occasionally damage one of these.
3) Excellent performance with my current ohm + coil (1.2 ohms). With this coil, an AW IMR 2000 will get me through a 6 ml bottle with acceptable performance mostly.... that last half ml or so is getting to the low end of what I consider acceptable. With this VTC5, the very last squonk was still well in my preferred range of acceptability. In fact, the bat was only down to 3.6v after vaporizing a full 6ml with that 1.2 ohm coil. I vaped a couple more ml off the next bottle with the same battery before I decided to swap it. It held on to that middle-acceptable range for a long time.
4) These flat tops pretty much forced me to install my button cover. I was having a little trouble getting used to the new feel of the deeper press... but the button cover fixed that right up.
Does anybody know if the new AW 18650 2000mAh are different than the old ones? Every thread I find about the 2000s is from like 2012. I want to order a new family of AWs as mine are getting older but I want to get the ones that hold their voltage under load the longest, mAh isn't as important as I use 1 1600 a day currently and will be ordering 3. And then I'll have 6 until I retire my current group.
I just know the old 2000s weren't as good for mechs as the 1600s were, wondering if that's still true.
I've heard people complain about the throw with a button cover being awkward. Do you not have this problem? I also grabbed a VTC5 for future low builds, but haven't run it in my REO yet.
I just know the old 2000s weren't as good for mechs as the 1600s were, wondering if that's still true.
I've heard people complain about the throw with a button cover being awkward. Do you not have this problem? I also grabbed a VTC5 for future low builds, but haven't run it in my REO yet.
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The AWIMR 18650 1600mAh have a lower internal resistance and can handle a higher current draw than the 2000mAh counterpart
Better for mech mods in certain build setups.
based on memory and various random notes I have (that means double check the detail):
1600 - int resistance is 10 milli-ohms
2000 - int resistance is 80 milli-ohms
Better for mech mods in certain build setups.
based on memory and various random notes I have (that means double check the detail):
1600 - int resistance is 10 milli-ohms
2000 - int resistance is 80 milli-ohms
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Yes the 1600 holds above 3.7 volts longer, the 2000 holds longer between 3.7 volts down to 2.5 volts. So the 1600 are better for the Reo and the 2000 is better for flashlights.
This should be on this thread too: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/batteries-chargers/587759-purple-efest-18650-battery-warning.html
woohoo - managed to score a couple Sony VTC5 18650 30amp 2600mah batteries from RTDVapor just now. they've been out of stock everywhere! excited to try them, not for subohming per se, but if they last me a full 6 mil I can go most or all of a day with one battery. sweet.
assuming they will work on the same charger I use for my AW IMR 18650s 1600mah...a nitecore intellicharger i4.
assuming they will work on the same charger I use for my AW IMR 18650s 1600mah...a nitecore intellicharger i4.
I've been trying out my new AW 1600mah all day and night. Can really tell the difference that long duration of staying above 3.7volts makes.
Kanthal 30g; 5/16 drill bit; wrapped 7 times for 1.8ohm.
50/50 "Shadow" juice from HHV.
Rayon (Cellucotton)
DAMN...WHAT A VAPE!!
I saw on another thread where ECF battery guru Baditude explained that the Sony's we use are:
a) not intended for direct consumer use (they were meant for manufacturers of power bricks and other equipment that featured regulation).
b) potentially not made by Sony. Lots of speculation going on on that front - everything from "they just outsourced the manufacturing" to counterfeiting/cloning. Sony, itself, claims that they haven't made any for over a year and won't comment to individual consumers.
NOT trying to scare monger here - not even sure there is anything to be the slightest scared about - but this info, combined with the efest misreporting of specs (20 amp bats marked and advertised as 35 amp) just means, IMHO, that threads like this where we share our knowledge and experience with these batteries are very important.
a) not intended for direct consumer use (they were meant for manufacturers of power bricks and other equipment that featured regulation).
b) potentially not made by Sony. Lots of speculation going on on that front - everything from "they just outsourced the manufacturing" to counterfeiting/cloning. Sony, itself, claims that they haven't made any for over a year and won't comment to individual consumers.
NOT trying to scare monger here - not even sure there is anything to be the slightest scared about - but this info, combined with the efest misreporting of specs (20 amp bats marked and advertised as 35 amp) just means, IMHO, that threads like this where we share our knowledge and experience with these batteries are very important.
I put it on when I got it... My problem is that I must push the button in such a way I get a little clockwise rotation. That first day, I pretty much locked my button every vape. That was frustrating. I took it off.
For whatever reason (don't know if it's the longer throw making me put the pad of my thumb higher on the button or if it's just because I became acutely aware of my tendency to lock the button that first day), I did not have that problem with the cover on yesterday, or so far this morning.
Not sure if this has been posted yet but this page has all the info you need on just about every battery available. Scroll down a little bit and youll see the chart...
Battery mAh & C Rating = amp Calculator
Battery mAh & C Rating = amp Calculator
This is where I differ against 'conventional vape wisdom'. And it's also why I love my regulated VVW so much. When considering a battery for vaping unregulated, when I look at a discharge graph, I'd rather see a steeper slope from 4.2 to 3.8 and then a much more level 3.8 to 3.4. The longer a battery holds on to that 3.8 to 3.4 range the better for me... and really, if it begins to level at 3.9 and stays very level all the way to 3.3 (like the 2000 mah AW) I'm pretty pleased.
The initial output performance just isn't what I want to get attached to. My workdays are much longer than 2 hours. After the first two, I still have 6 or 8 or more when I still need my vape to satsify. -- Or to put it this way: After the first ml in the bottle, I still need to vape the rest and I have zero desire to carry a bunch of batteries so I can always have that first ml peak.
Instead of wanting that first ml peak to last a ml and a half - I want the 2nd-5th ml to be as consistent as possible... and then I'm willing to suffer some degraded performance on the last ml if it means I don't have to carry supplies. .... So, I actually chose the 2000 mah AW over the 1600 on purpose.
My pleasure with the examples of VTC5s I have lies in the fact they seem to hold on to that mid-range for a very long time, and I wasn't necessarily expecting that after what I've read here on ECF and at candlepower. I expected them to have a long peak discharge and then a more rapid drain curve... like an AW 1600, but with a considerably longer peak. I didn't buy them because I was at all disappointed with the AW 2000s. I bought them because sooner or later, I will probably experiment with multiple coils and I'd like to make sure I have a little head room beyond the 10a the AW 2000 provides. My current (pun intended) needs are not anywhere near 10a with a single 1.2 ohm coil... but later someday when I'm bored?
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