There may be a possible issue with the version 1.5 tubes. I started a new thread about it, please check it if you own one or are thinking of purchasing one.
Lavatube 1.5
- Thread starter HawkeyeCS
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It would help if you gave the name of the thread or better yet provide a link.
Errol
Here it is:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/lavatube/300561-potential-lavatube-1-5-issue.html
Rick from Vapor Alley is doing everything he can to resolve this issue to my satisfaction. Apparently he got bad information from the distributor.
Errol
Well, nuts. I took my LT V1.5 from CCV out of service awaiting refund details, but then yesterday I incautiously decided to order a Varitube X from Ivape (the 10% off memorial day sale coupon made the price only $63 for the full kit shipped) to go with the Vector Variable Volt I already had from VaporAlley.
I was somewhat suspicious that the VVV and Vari-X might be nothing more than V1.5s with different caps, since the functions of the display are the same. The reason I went ahead was that my VVV doesn't have the low-power stealth mode glitch that my CCV V1.5 does, so I told myself that the circuitry must be different.
Apparently, that was just wishful thinking. From Errol's post (and others), it looks like I'll soon have three lavatubes to be sent back for refunds. CCV is setting up exchanges for a chrome V2, but (as far as I know) that version uses the old (original V1 electronics with a 2.5 amp limit and no resistance checking. I don't want that. So, hopefully I can get refunds. Both of my current devices have performed flawlessly, but who wants to vape on a ticking time bomb?
There are people on ECF who would assert that many---even most---mods are dangerous time bombs, but that's slightly different. It's one thing to have concerns about battery safety; it's quite another to learn that a vendor who sells a particular mod actually experienced a serious meltdown failure with his own device, caused not by the battery, but by faulty internal design of the unit itself.
Just another day in the wacky world of Wild West Vaping.
I was somewhat suspicious that the VVV and Vari-X might be nothing more than V1.5s with different caps, since the functions of the display are the same. The reason I went ahead was that my VVV doesn't have the low-power stealth mode glitch that my CCV V1.5 does, so I told myself that the circuitry must be different.
Apparently, that was just wishful thinking. From Errol's post (and others), it looks like I'll soon have three lavatubes to be sent back for refunds. CCV is setting up exchanges for a chrome V2, but (as far as I know) that version uses the old (original V1 electronics with a 2.5 amp limit and no resistance checking. I don't want that. So, hopefully I can get refunds. Both of my current devices have performed flawlessly, but who wants to vape on a ticking time bomb?
There are people on ECF who would assert that many---even most---mods are dangerous time bombs, but that's slightly different. It's one thing to have concerns about battery safety; it's quite another to learn that a vendor who sells a particular mod actually experienced a serious meltdown failure with his own device, caused not by the battery, but by faulty internal design of the unit itself.
Just another day in the wacky world of Wild West Vaping.
Where did you find the code for the 10% discount? Think I'll get the X model if it's still on sale.
Errol
Errol,
The code ("memorial") was in one of Hairball's posts in the Deals and Steals sub-forum yesterday. Sale's over now, though.
That may be just as well for you, since this whole business of the LT V1.5/1.5t is beginning to have a bad smell about it. Shekinahsgroom's posted on other threads that these versions are "knock-offs," as well as aggressively taking to task the vendors that sell them.
That bottom link is to an L-Rider message on Alibaba saying (in broken English) that some reps had quit L-Rider and joined Young June, the tone of which was for customers to be very cautious about Young June's products. Truth? Corporate feud between L-Rider/J-Lin and Uniq/Young June? Bad blood? Slander? I don't know, but it does sort of harken back to the brouhaha in 2010 when Dekang's juice chemist absconded with the formula for RY4 and was subsequently arrested and imprisoned.
I don't mean to single out China as the only place where weirdness happens. Hardly. Corporate capitalism around the world has always been rife with in-fighting, espionage, industrial theft, and white-collar crime. Sadly, it's all part of the melodrama around power and money.
I wouldn't care about any of this except for Andrew's (owner of CCV) experience of his own personal LT V1.5 undergoing a spontaneous and potentially dangerous failure, presumably from bad chip design or faulty production. If Andrew had dropped his Lavatube or had it in his pocket and inadvertently activated the firing button, that would be one thing, but his device was just sitting on a table untouched when it went ballistic.
I suppose any product can have the rare 1-in-1,000 lemon that goes haywire, but the point of all the protection circuitry built into the chips in these APVs is to specifically prevent that kind of malfunction. As far as I know, we haven't gotten reports of any similar spontaneous meltdowns with ProVaris, Darwins, BuzzPros/iPros, or even V1 Lavatubes. Design flaws? Yeah. User frustrations? Yes. Occasional broken units? Sure. But no reports of runaway devices that could burn down the house or injure someone.
Maybe our particular LTs are fine. But maybe not. And that doesn't sit well with me.
Thanks for the information. It's beginning to look like there are no 4amp units available as yet. Glad I didn't see that 10% discount sooner because that was one site I believed had a 4amp unit and I would have bought it for $63. Escaped this one. 
Feel bad for the vendors that were taken in on this, can we call it a scam??
Errol
Feel bad for the vendors that were taken in on this, can we call it a scam??
Errol
Just wanted to fill in some blanks for you guys as I have directly tested these mods. The Vaporbeast vector or triple V and the vapor alley tubes are the EXACT same unit, and it's NOT a V3. They are called the 1.5T from young june tech. They are the EXACT device as the 1.5V just with metal caps and the same 3.2 amp limit and all the same internals. The V2.0 that CCV is replacing the 1.5 with is a true 4 amp limit a few new internal chipsets to fix the power off glitch and the new end caps and chrome finish, all in all, THE ONE YOU WANT IS THE 2.0 FROM CCV and or whoever will carry it. It is NOT the Lrider 2.5 amp limit with a pretty body, it's got all the good stuff that the 1.5V had (none of the glitch) with a higher Amp limit from 3.2 to a now 4 amp limit, resistance checking, battery meter on screen, and will be the biggest bang for the buck...I think. (my opinion) Hope this helps get the correct info out there for you to make a INFORMED decision (what ecf is for) ..................J
Side note, if you want to tell the Lrider apart from the youngjune .......just look at the power button. Red/Lrider, body color/youngjune, .....free tip for ya.
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VAPNJ,
Thanks! Your post has the most authoritative ring of all the info I've read so far.
As we've gone through this tempest in a teapot, starting with false claims (exaggerated amp limits), multiple number/name designations (V1.5, 2.0, 3.0), users' discovery of a chip programming glitch (going into stealth low-power mode instead of powering down), at least one serious outright failure (Andrew's V1.5 going off like a roman candle by itself), bad blood revealed between manufacturers (L-Rider's message on Alibaba concerning defection of its reps to Young June, and the general weirdness between L-Rider/J-Lin and Uniq/Young June), poster debates about "authentic" VTubes versus "knockoffs", it has been extremely difficult to know what to believe and who to trust.
Starting with Andrew at CCV, other vendors offering the V1.5 and V1.5t are now getting hip to the fact that something is amiss with these devices and their marketing.
As I've posted earlier (and often), I love the ergonomic implementation of a single button-click giving atty/carto resistance, set voltage, and the remaining battery life graphic. That's a brilliant improvement on the cumbersome multi-click menu systems. Reading in your post that the chrome V2.0 Tubes that Andrew/CCV will be offering as replacements (with a small upgrade charge) do contain that feature plus a true 4.0 amp limit resolves many of my concerns. If true, I will be a happy camper.
Thanks, too, to all the other posters who have tried to help us get to the bottom of this confusing journey.
Bill, Thank you for the encouraging words, just trying to get accurate and truly tested information out to the vaping family. I do want to clarify "exactly" what happened with Andrew at CCV's unit as it may have been a tiny bit exaggerated or just mis-informed...it happens.
Andrew had left the room where his 1.5v was resting, when he returned 5 or so minutes later the room smelled like something kinda burnt smelling (electrical burnt) when he picked up the device it was pretty warm and a little bit of smoke was still kinda coming out of the top cap, he then immediately removed the end cap to find the spring somewhat distorted and a bit melted and still pretty warm. After getting inside of it by removing the press-fitted top cap he could see on the front circuit board in the top right corner that "1" of the small chipsets had obviously shorted somehow and was melted,along with the display, after seeing it up close on a skype call and HD pictures he sent me of close ups I could see what "looks to be the culprit" or, reason for failure, and PLEASE KEEP IN MIND this is merely a visual diagnoses, without the unit in my hands to truly put in a bench testing situation I can only visually diagnose.
OK, by the way the 2, front to back mounted, circuit boards are held in the tube is by a slot mounted and press fitted "looks to be" aluminum or metal ring, as you can see in the earlier photos of the internal chipsets. At any rate the ring is obviously conductive. Now the way the devices are setup the outer wall does act as a ground (or -) for the device, obviously the 2 boards have power running thru them, the conductive ring "looks" like it "may" have been slightly shifted just enough to come in contact with the small chip soldered in the right top corner of the circuit board. When that happened the chip having a power source running thru it (+), and the ring, that's conductive passing the ground (-) thru the outer wall body touched then shorted out the chipset. Now from what I know of the situation, yes it probably should have never happened in the 1st place, but the protection circuits did kinda do their job. I hope to have the unit in my hand soon so I can get into every detail of the internals to see for sure what exactly happened. As we all hate to see or hear of this ever happening to anyone, anywhere in our vaping family please keep in mind this is a new product for this company. I don't know all the details of the bad blood feud between Lrider and young june nor do I really care to, I truly despise drama and the type of people that create it and I stay away from it. But I'm more than sure the same type of situation has happened in the U.S. atleast a million or so times, I can think of 10 or more right now off the top of my head that were in the media for weeks. It happens everywhere, where their is money to be gained people will go to ANY links to get it, it's unfortunate, but very true.
From what I understand, Young june is extremely proactive in resolving this issue and swaping out any and all units that are, have, or will be defective in any way. Hopefully thats true. I wish Lrider would get off their .... and advancing their units to something that is competitive and has some beefy internals and amperage limits. Lets face it 2.5 amps with the power and amperage our atomisers/cartos need JUST ISN'T CUTTING IT !!!!
So,......... LRIDER, IF YOUR READING THIS.....HERE'S YOUR SIGN....GET BACK TO THE R&D ROOM AND MAKE A UNIT WITH A 4 AMP LIMIT, RESISTANCE CHECKING, A ON-SCREEN BATTERY METER AND THE ORIGINAL MENU BATTERY VOLTAGE CHECK, A SPRING LOADED CENTER PIN, METAL TOP AND BOTTOM WITH THE NEW TOP, WITH FINISHES IN BLACK, SILVER, CHROME, GUN METAL, HYPER BLACK, AND BLACK CHROME. AND MAKE IT "STABLE", NO GLITCHES, NO ISSUES. 1st company to do this....I think will seal the market.
Wow I should start designing mods and quit working for Hewlett Packard. Well, this is what I got folks, I really hope it clears up any and all questions, theories, blanks, etc... Take care everyone ..............J
Andrew had left the room where his 1.5v was resting, when he returned 5 or so minutes later the room smelled like something kinda burnt smelling (electrical burnt) when he picked up the device it was pretty warm and a little bit of smoke was still kinda coming out of the top cap, he then immediately removed the end cap to find the spring somewhat distorted and a bit melted and still pretty warm. After getting inside of it by removing the press-fitted top cap he could see on the front circuit board in the top right corner that "1" of the small chipsets had obviously shorted somehow and was melted,along with the display, after seeing it up close on a skype call and HD pictures he sent me of close ups I could see what "looks to be the culprit" or, reason for failure, and PLEASE KEEP IN MIND this is merely a visual diagnoses, without the unit in my hands to truly put in a bench testing situation I can only visually diagnose.
OK, by the way the 2, front to back mounted, circuit boards are held in the tube is by a slot mounted and press fitted "looks to be" aluminum or metal ring, as you can see in the earlier photos of the internal chipsets. At any rate the ring is obviously conductive. Now the way the devices are setup the outer wall does act as a ground (or -) for the device, obviously the 2 boards have power running thru them, the conductive ring "looks" like it "may" have been slightly shifted just enough to come in contact with the small chip soldered in the right top corner of the circuit board. When that happened the chip having a power source running thru it (+), and the ring, that's conductive passing the ground (-) thru the outer wall body touched then shorted out the chipset. Now from what I know of the situation, yes it probably should have never happened in the 1st place, but the protection circuits did kinda do their job. I hope to have the unit in my hand soon so I can get into every detail of the internals to see for sure what exactly happened. As we all hate to see or hear of this ever happening to anyone, anywhere in our vaping family please keep in mind this is a new product for this company. I don't know all the details of the bad blood feud between Lrider and young june nor do I really care to, I truly despise drama and the type of people that create it and I stay away from it. But I'm more than sure the same type of situation has happened in the U.S. atleast a million or so times, I can think of 10 or more right now off the top of my head that were in the media for weeks. It happens everywhere, where their is money to be gained people will go to ANY links to get it, it's unfortunate, but very true.
From what I understand, Young june is extremely proactive in resolving this issue and swaping out any and all units that are, have, or will be defective in any way. Hopefully thats true. I wish Lrider would get off their .... and advancing their units to something that is competitive and has some beefy internals and amperage limits. Lets face it 2.5 amps with the power and amperage our atomisers/cartos need JUST ISN'T CUTTING IT !!!!
So,......... LRIDER, IF YOUR READING THIS.....HERE'S YOUR SIGN....GET BACK TO THE R&D ROOM AND MAKE A UNIT WITH A 4 AMP LIMIT, RESISTANCE CHECKING, A ON-SCREEN BATTERY METER AND THE ORIGINAL MENU BATTERY VOLTAGE CHECK, A SPRING LOADED CENTER PIN, METAL TOP AND BOTTOM WITH THE NEW TOP, WITH FINISHES IN BLACK, SILVER, CHROME, GUN METAL, HYPER BLACK, AND BLACK CHROME. AND MAKE IT "STABLE", NO GLITCHES, NO ISSUES. 1st company to do this....I think will seal the market.
Wow I should start designing mods and quit working for Hewlett Packard. Well, this is what I got folks, I really hope it clears up any and all questions, theories, blanks, etc... Take care everyone ..............J
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Repost from the other LT1.5 Issue thread:
Update: I got a reply from Penny's concerning Andrew's 1.5 meltdown.
Smoke Anywhere For Penny's, LLC Store Said:
I have seen the thread on ECF and am not concerned about it at all because when I got the VV 1.5 in, the manufacture called and said that they were having problems with the unit staying on and sent me replacements with new chip sets. So I have had no problems with the VV 1.5.
So it does seem that Young June is on top of things. I can't say 100% that the replacements that Penny's got addressed this particular issue...but she seems pretty sure of it. Only thing I can say is that so far mine is working great.
Update: I got a reply from Penny's concerning Andrew's 1.5 meltdown.
Smoke Anywhere For Penny's, LLC Store Said:
I have seen the thread on ECF and am not concerned about it at all because when I got the VV 1.5 in, the manufacture called and said that they were having problems with the unit staying on and sent me replacements with new chip sets. So I have had no problems with the VV 1.5.
So it does seem that Young June is on top of things. I can't say 100% that the replacements that Penny's got addressed this particular issue...but she seems pretty sure of it. Only thing I can say is that so far mine is working great.
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KeysBurn,
Awhile back, I read a post in one of the many Vtube threads stating that the manufacturing facility in China (I presume it was L-Rider, but that wasn't stated---the post was written before the newer Vtube versions came out) had given up on producing stainless steel Vtubes after one short production run for Apollo because the cost was prohibitive---well beyond the specified price point---and also because stainless steel was difficult to machine without too many Quality Control failures, resulting in excessive waste of expensive raw materials (stainless isn't cheap). Supposedly, this factory then re-tooled for chromed brass, which was thinner, much less expensive, and easier to fabricate. The gist of the post was that there would be no more stainless steel Vtubes once that first small production run was sold out.
I can't speak to the truth of that, just sharing what I read.
Like vapnj350, I feel no particular allegiance to L-Rider. L-Rider didn't exactly cover itself with glory with the underperformance of the V1 Lavatube. I don't care what company makes a Vtube I buy, as long as it vapes like a champ and doesn't blow up or burn down my house. If there's in-fighting and weirdness between the various Chinese manufacturers, well, that's the history of capitalism in a nutshell. Whoever makes the best mouse trap, you know? Just because they might have stolen the plans is not the consumer's concern.
So, yes, I'd think that---despite the glitches---the V1.5t and soon-to-come chrome V2.0 Vtubes with resistance checking and higher amp limits should be a wake-up call to L-Rider.
Awhile back, I read a post in one of the many Vtube threads stating that the manufacturing facility in China (I presume it was L-Rider, but that wasn't stated---the post was written before the newer Vtube versions came out) had given up on producing stainless steel Vtubes after one short production run for Apollo because the cost was prohibitive---well beyond the specified price point---and also because stainless steel was difficult to machine without too many Quality Control failures, resulting in excessive waste of expensive raw materials (stainless isn't cheap). Supposedly, this factory then re-tooled for chromed brass, which was thinner, much less expensive, and easier to fabricate. The gist of the post was that there would be no more stainless steel Vtubes once that first small production run was sold out.
I can't speak to the truth of that, just sharing what I read.
Like vapnj350, I feel no particular allegiance to L-Rider. L-Rider didn't exactly cover itself with glory with the underperformance of the V1 Lavatube. I don't care what company makes a Vtube I buy, as long as it vapes like a champ and doesn't blow up or burn down my house. If there's in-fighting and weirdness between the various Chinese manufacturers, well, that's the history of capitalism in a nutshell. Whoever makes the best mouse trap, you know? Just because they might have stolen the plans is not the consumer's concern.
So, yes, I'd think that---despite the glitches---the V1.5t and soon-to-come chrome V2.0 Vtubes with resistance checking and higher amp limits should be a wake-up call to L-Rider.
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