Leaky, leaky Lr808 megas and other questions

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Scorched

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Mar 25, 2010
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Hey guys,

I just have a couple questions for you. So, I have these Lr808 cartomizers which are fantastic. I have been using them for awhile now and I recently opened a couple fresh ones. These new cartomizers I have been using for a couple days now have become REALLY leaky.

Once I vape it dry, I go ahead and fill it up about 5-10 drops at a time and let the liquid soak in. Recently it seems after about 20 drops or so the liquid just drains right out the other end as soon as I drip into it. I figured the cartomizer really should not be full after 20 drops because they usually accept 55 or so. I am making SURE not to drip down the center but instead down the sides. I have also tried putting a cartomizer condom on the threaded end to prevent leaking but that did not help at all. Even using a liquid with a much thicker 60%VG the leakage still occurs.

So am I doing something wrong here or WTF is going on? Lol.

Also, one more question:
Recently I became the owner of a new (used) Chameleon. I really like the device and it has become my everyday mod. BUT! The 808/901 connectors and the 801 connectors don't seem like they are working like they should... When I use a 808 cartomizer on it's native threads the draw is SUPER tight to the point where I get almost no vapor. The same sort of thing is happening with my 801 mini atomizers. Try to think sucking a golf ball through a garden hose. (Full Metal Jacket refrence :)) Using the 510 connection with adaptors works perfectly. None of the connectors have clogged holes or blocked airways... so is the draw designed to be SUPER tight, or am I just used to a SUPER airy draw from using adaptors? Any way to fix it or am I stuck with using adaptors?

All of these minor problems aside, I am still in vaping wonderland :laugh:
 

Scorched

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Mar 25, 2010
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Hey! Just one more questions here too... it is not really relevant but I am just curious.
It seems like the 510 Drip-style cartomizers really don't do it for me. The vapor production really is not there especially campared to the other ikenvape cartomizers. Vaping them at 4.2v definetly is not doing it... and 6v is definetly over kill with a burnt taste. Are these designed to be used at 5v for best preformance or am I doing it all wrong?
 

Iken

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Jan 23, 2009
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Hey Scorch!
No sir, there is always a remainder in there that needs to be forced to the bottom where the heating element sits. When you add more liquid, you'll find 5 more drops will give you back a longer run time as the liquid is being pushed to where it needs to go.
It sounds like those adapters were played around with and whomever removed the pin must've covered up the holes with the nylon or it can be that the pins are just sitting too high. If you have a brass punch out or something brass that will fit the center pin give it a couple taps to lower it a bit. Pliers may work on the flat end on the bottom depending on how tight it's wedged. I seen some that can be pulled by hand before.
The V2 Golds are designed to be a crowd pleasure of sorts by being able to handle different types of voltages making smooth transitions. I'm with the gorgeous blueberry up there by enjoying the 4.8V range. The 3.7 area is for the folk that enjoy a cooler style of vaping. The beauty is you can exercise it up to 5.5V by gradually upping the voltage as you go along.
 

Scorched

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Mar 25, 2010
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Okay, I am a bit confused here but here is what I got :)

So, by the center pin do you mean pin on the 901/801/510 adaptor that contacts the switch assembly? Or do you mean the center pin on the switch assembly itself?

I unscrewed the screw/pin on the wswitch assembly, removed the nylon ring and it didn't fire. Replaced the nylon ring and it works fine. On the adaptor it seems like an identical setup, a center screw with a nylon ring around it. I tried to unscrew the center screw on the adaptor but it doesn't seem like it will budge.

So, you are saying that if I can unscrew the pin and remove the nylon ring from the adaptor portion that the draw should be better? How can I get it unscrewed? It seems pretty tight on there :p

THANKS SO MUCH ISAAC!
 

Iken

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Okay, I am a bit confused here but here is what I got :)

So, by the center pin do you mean pin on the 901/801/510 adaptor that contacts the switch assembly? Or do you mean the center pin on the switch assembly itself?

I unscrewed the screw/pin on the wswitch assembly, removed the nylon ring and it didn't fire. Replaced the nylon ring and it works fine. On the adaptor it seems like an identical setup, a center screw with a nylon ring around it. I tried to unscrew the center screw on the adaptor but it doesn't seem like it will budge.

So, you are saying that if I can unscrew the pin and remove the nylon ring from the adaptor portion that the draw should be better? How can I get it unscrewed? It seems pretty tight on there :p

THANKS SO MUCH ISAAC!
Any time good buddy! :)
I'm very sorry for the lack of clarification. I meant the pin right on the adapter that sits inside of 901/801/510. Usually I get caught up in slang terms, but yes in mod referencing the center pin is typically the positive. It's separate in all adapters. This one just happens to have a nylon insulator to ensure the two pieces are never to come in contact. The pin is positive as the threading are negative. When the adapter was pushed back in place. The holes must've not been aligned. In some cases I even found the holes absent!Which I used a pin to poke right through when the center pin was out.
 

Scorched

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Mar 25, 2010
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Ahh! Okay, so now I know what you are talking about here. :)

So on the 901 adaptor here there is one small hole beneath the threads on the outer pirimiter. This hole is not clogged. The center pin is only slightly recessed from being level with the top of the threads & I can see the nylon insulator on the bottom of the adaptor. Now then, I am having a hell of a time getting the center pin to even think about moving up down sideways or otherwise. I tried putting the end of a screwdriver on the center and giving the .... of the screwdriver a tap with a hammer. I also tried to unscrew the bottom side with pliers but I don't think it screws Lol.

So now that we are on the same page, how can I get the damed out of there? What else can I try?

Sorry for all of the questions here.
 

aspen

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Hi Scorched, several ways I remove them are;
Use a vice and punch it out but be careful how much pressure on the vice, brass is very soft
Or find a deep socket that fits the outside ring and punch the pin inward
Hope these make sense and best of luck
Ahh! Okay, so now I know what you are talking about here. :)

So on the 901 adaptor here there is one small hole beneath the threads on the outer pirimiter. This hole is not clogged. The center pin is only slightly recessed from being level with the top of the threads & I can see the nylon insulator on the bottom of the adaptor. Now then, I am having a hell of a time getting the center pin to even think about moving up down sideways or otherwise. I tried putting the end of a screwdriver on the center and giving the .... of the screwdriver a tap with a hammer. I also tried to unscrew the bottom side with pliers but I don't think it screws Lol.

So now that we are on the same page, how can I get the damed out of there? What else can I try?

Sorry for all of the questions here.
 

Scorched

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Mar 25, 2010
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Yeah 5card that's why I was confused as well.

The cartomizer still leaks with any liquid I use, thick or thin... The only reason the cartomizer(should) leak is when there is excess liquid and the material is saturated. But these cartomizers should not be saturated after 20 drops. This leads me to believe that there MUST already be liquid in the cartomizer but it is not wicking properly which is why I thought it was dry. So for the time being

I have been dripping as I go I guess you could say. I put in 10-15 drops every so often as needed while I vape, but I suppose the defeats the purpose of the cartomizer. It is no bother, though. I will continue to use these cartomizers until they are dead and I'm sure when I crack open a new one it will not have the same problem.
 
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Switched

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The best way bar none to remove the part of the atty connector is to sit the adapter on its top assy facing up. Then use a drift punch and knock the pin out. The adapters do provide a stiffer draw than some other native connections. Some folks are used to a much airier draw than others.

Wrt the LR 808 your liquid might not wick good enough, or it may be just this particular carto. I also found that the longer the carto, the more material the liquid has to travel through, compounding the problem. Although the initial fill might take X drops, that is in order to saturate the batting fully. Subsequent refills will be much less, because the batting is already wet or should be. Vaping style and liquid will indeed be a factor into how long a carto will vape before requiring refills. LR and HV turns cartos and attys into juice hogs :)
 

atavanhalen

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I tried BWB Malty Toffee and it was instantly incinerated. I know Don uses a good amount of VG. Could that be the issue? Should I try 80/20 or even 100% PG?

Like Switched said, the way they are vaped is huge. I have come to learn that cartos do not like the way I vape especially at higher voltages like 5 volts. The only success I have had with cartos for me personally is with 3.7volts. I think that I take hits that are way to long and they do not have the time to wick properly. So when I use cartos I usually only get through half the liquid before I need to refill. I kind of treat them like I would while dripping a regular atomizer but I get more hits before I get a dry hit. The liquid is also really important but I will let switched respond on what his suggestions for pg/vg %s. The way I do it is just try different liquids until I find something that tastes good at given voltages. 95% of what I use is 70pg30vg. I am not saying that these are the issues that you are having just sharing my experience in hopes that it might help.
 

MsOceanCity

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Like Switched said, the way they are vaped is huge.


I understand that and am very conserviative when trying anything at 5V. I usually use a HR coolcart (V4L) and don't have to worry so much but if I use a LR carto, like V4L wow, I have to take short, shallow drags. With the mega, I didn't even have the chance to do that. Really weird.
 

Scorched

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I have noticed with my 808 LR megas that they DO NOT like VG at all and will have quite a difficult time wicking. I would not go more than 20% VG with these type of cartomizers.

So on another note I recieved my HV 306 atomizers today and man are they rockin at 6.4v !!! The taste is slightly different than LR atomizers. With this particular liquid I think it has a better taste at 3.7v. The vapor it HUGE! I can get even more vapor with a shorter drag and no burnt taste at all :D

I am vaping 12mg liquid and I'm getting a bit of a head rush. It might be time to bring it down to 10mg or possibly less. GOOD STUFF!

I should also mention that the HV 306 does not work the 510 connection on the chameleon but it does work with a 510-901 and then 901-510 adaptor. Weird? I will see if it works with the 901 connection and 901-510 adaptor.
 
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