Line V2 headaches!

[R53_Dave]

Hopefully one of you Genesis guys knows what's going on with my V2 here.

I got it used off the classifieds. The first wick I made worked fine. 1.6ohm Kanthal coil, vaped great for two days....on a ProVari no less!!! It tiped over (didn't fall or anything) on it's side and I didn't notice it for a few hours. No leaking, but when I fired it up....BLEH!! Strong metal taste. (I dried the wick out I think) SO now I've made 4 new wicks and nothing works. It shorts or gets a hot spot between the tall post and the wick. Forget this thing ever being reliable on a ProVari. Not going to happen. I took it to a friends house (Katana owner) so he could take a crack at it. Same crap! We're 99.9% sure we are doing the wick correctly. Scott's video is where we learned how to do it. Even trying the rolling paper trick doesn't help. It fires for a second or two and either pops the 32g wire, or just wont fire up at all. Again, we are doing wicks that work perfectly in a Katana so WTF?

What's going on with this thing?

We are gear heads, so none of this stuff is "too complex" for us. Far from it!

Please help!!!

 

[Scubabatdan]

First, pull the coil and wick and do a continuity test of the silver wires (positive to ground) then (Positive to body), should have no contimuity (if you do you have a short). Next check voltage at the silver wires to ensure no shorting or drop in voltage. If everything checkout, make a wick, temper it 4 times with a butane tourch and juice. Then use the paper trick, or cotton ball trick to help insolate the coil from the SS. Wrap your coil put some juice on it and pulse fire until all the coils burn evenly. If you get a hot spot move the coil up or down with a tooth pick and try again. Keep at it unil all the coils burn even. Next check the ohms rating on the coil, set the voltage to match at around 8 watts, add juice and vape.

Hope this helps.
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Paper trick on the GTUS, works the same for the line, just no 1/8" fold:


Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Cotton ball trick, again is for the GTUS, but same principle for the line:


Dan

 

[R53_Dave]

Thanks Dan! The cotton trick looks good for insulating the wick from the line body too. It seems like that's the biggest issue atm. Shorting from the wick hole, or the wick touching metal in the tank. Taking the non working setup straight off the Line and into the Katana....and it working.....is frustrating. New ideas FTW!

 

[Flykrisco]

I am having the same issues with hot spots on my line I got second hand. Looks like the cotton trick will be the fix. We will see.

 

[R53_Dave]

Well, after much trial and error I've managed to tame this beast.

The cotton trick works, but it's really only a stop gap/cover for poorly oxidized wicks. You can also get cotton in the tank which is bad seeing it not removable (on the Line stuff anyway). That said, it does work. If all else fails this will get you around tank shorts.

Everyone needs to read Dan's post!!! Everything he said is KEY! From the meter use to the paper/cotton tricks. All this stuff will help you get over the hump! KEEP AT IT! It's totally worth it once you're through the learning curve.

Hot spots on the top of the coil are pretty much a given with Genesis stuff. You have to be able to tell the difference between a hot spot, and a tank short. A hot spot will heat up a little more slowly than a tank short. Tank shorts will usually pop the wire very quickly. A hot spot can be fixed by slightly moving the wire up or down until it goes away. A tank short will never go away until you fix the wick.

Things to know:

1. Know the difference between hot spots and tank shorts (Wire gets super bright right away and breaks, you've got a tank short)
2. Anywhere the wick is touching metal is a possible short area. Keep the wick off the bottom of the tank and make sure it's not tight going into the hole. A wick that's too snug going in the hole will almost always tank sort as it looses it's coating when sliding down the metal housing.
3. Keep the wick moist while working out the coils. It you dry fire it with a bad hot spot it will pop the wire like a tank short will.
4. Top end hot spots can be tamed by slightly pulling the wick towards the post. (Less wire in the air between post and wick) Once the distance is smaller they can be further adjusted out by slightly moving the wire up or down with a wooden toothpick (Metal probes work but may scratch the coating off the wick causing more shorts) until it finds it's "Happy place"
5. Don't even bother using a ProVari to setup these devices. You'll get nowhere fast. They run fine on a Provari AFTER you set it up on a unregulated mod. (ZAP's work well because of the tank insulators. See below)
6. Make sure the voltage on the ProVari is set below 3.7v (the lower the better) and make a coil of at least 4 wraps (5-6 is better). Having too low of a resistance, or too high of a voltage, are also reasons the ProVari will fail to work with these.

The easiest Genesis stuff to setup are those with insulated tanks (Zenesis, Katana etc). This fact makes setting them up much much easier. Tank shorts are totaly taken out of the picture with these (Unless you let the wick touch the bottom of the tank). You'll only have to work out hot spots, which is much easier. The rest have a big learning curve. Anyone just starting out on Genesis should keep this in mind. If your first genesis has a straight metal wick hole, you're in for some serious frustration. Most people throw in the towel because of this.

Genesis tanks are hands down the best tasting setups around. They also produce the most vapor (If you care about that stuff). That said, they are not for the timid or easily frustrated.

Thanks again to the mighty ScubaBatDan for his help here. Your videos (and about 100 others) helped me learn the tricks needed to use a Genesis rather than have it use me lol

 

[BJ43]

Hopefully one of you Genesis guys knows what's going on with my V2 here.

I got it used off the classifieds. The first wick I made worked fine. 1.6ohm Kanthal coil, vaped great for two days....on a ProVari no less!!! It tiped over (didn't fall or anything) on it's side and I didn't notice it for a few hours. No leaking, but when I fired it up....BLEH!! Strong metal taste. (I dried the wick out I think) SO now I've made 4 new wicks and nothing works. It shorts or gets a hot spot between the tall post and the wick. Forget this thing ever being reliable on a ProVari. Not going to happen. I took it to a friends house (Katana owner) so he could take a crack at it. Same crap! We're 99.9% sure we are doing the wick correctly. Scott's video is where we learned how to do it. Even trying the rolling paper trick doesn't help. It fires for a second or two and either pops the 32g wire, or just wont fire up at all. Again, we are doing wicks that work perfectly in a Katana so WTF?

What's going on with this thing?

We are gear heads, so none of this stuff is "too complex" for us. Far from it!

Please help!!!

Check the positive post where in goes down thru the cap, on all my original lines the PTFE shrunk and the positive would short inside. I have taken all of mine apart, rewired with 18g silver wire and new PTFE. I also made the positive the longer post so I could leave a little more PTFE sticking out. Don't worry about the so called tank short, that really doesn't exist if the wick under the coil is oxidized, there is no current flowing from the coil to the wick so the wick can have contact thru the hole, on the bottom, or anywhere else except under the coil. PITA to take these apart, somewhere Dan has the pics on how to do it. I ruined 12 quarters but finally was able to get them apart.
This is what I found inside and the second pic is with new PTFE and the longer positive post.