link to heron and 2.5 swtich break down/cleaming
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I could be wrong, but I don't think there's any "set in stone" procedure for cleaning the Heron. I cleaned one of mine this morning. Took the GPin out using the fork, then cleaned out the area above the GPin (where it makes contact with the bottom of the positive pin, where the serial# is) with 70% Isopropanol Alcohol. I then did the same with the cotton topper and coupler ring, as well as the inside of the tank and the top/Bell. For the build deck, I used a Q-Tip and some more 70% IPA until the whole thing was clean as a whistle. I then rinsed the whole atty with soap and scalding hot water and dried with a paper towel....seems to be good as new...
This may not be the way others do it, I don't know....Maybe the IPA was overkill and I could've just used soap and water....But as long as you break it down all the way (like I just described) and clean every crevice then you should be good to go...
This may not be the way others do it, I don't know....Maybe the IPA was overkill and I could've just used soap and water....But as long as you break it down all the way (like I just described) and clean every crevice then you should be good to go...
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thank you. Looks like I need to remove the nut and really clean it well. Had an auto fire on it for a about ten minutes last night and am cleaning everything.
Amazing that is is still in good shape after all of that heat.
Oh jeez, OK then yeah....I figured you just spilled a bit of juice, but in that case I would remove/inspect the insulators and make sure they're still okay....
Someone here may be of better assistance than me when it comes to this, though......Good luck buddy, I'm hoping everything turns out OK!!
Had a bit of a melt down on my 2.5/heron last night and need to clean every part. Can someone pls provide links since I can't seem to find them
tks in advance.
Soap and water is enough most of the times. No special tools are required.
On the heron I am using a toothbrush.
Looking for the link to get my 2.5 switch apart.
Thank you perseas
On the heron I am using a toothbrush.
Looking for the link to get my 2.5 switch apart.
Thank you perseas
The brass nut you see is reverse thread. A pair of needle noise with a quick twist.clockwise will free it. The opposite to reassemble.
The button will drop, l clean the inside mechanics with a toothbrush as well as your spring.
Check your spring well after a prolonged auto fire.
On the heron I am using a toothbrush.
Looking for the link to get my 2.5 switch apart.
Thank you perseas
You're welcome
Oops, Idaho is fast
Thank you bro!
thank you. I already had my needle nose pliers with painters tape out and that worked perfectly. off to clean them up. Amazingly everything looking good after all of that heat. Still unclear how it happened but I will always lock it from now on.
Thought I had it but it just keeps spinning. Thumb on the button while turning reverse?
Seems stuck now.
Yes, you need to stabilise it with your thumb. Mind you, it is left handed.
Sometimes when the GP PAPS 2.5/3.0 is placed on soft material that is covering a table or such you will find them to fire. Due to the nice soft button touch and the best throw in the biz, the material will raise slightly in the middle of the switch while the edges are pressed down.
You also may of solved the issue with a good cleaning as the slight build up will cause a bit of stickiness or the button spring operation to not work as designed.
The switches are my favorite to clean. Nothing beats a nice clean conductive switch!
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